Sandra‘s Closet

I have just received the tragic news that another legend has left the planet. Fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy, who opened his eponymous fashion house in 1952, died past Saturday aged 91 as his partner – former haute couture designer – Philippe Venet has announced today. The couple lived in a Renaissance chateau near Paris.

«Balloon Coat», Hubert de Givenchy, 1958

The aristocratic gentleman was known for his sophisticated and ladylike chic in the 1950s and 1960s and famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy and Grace Kelly.

At the age of seventeen, he moved to Paris where he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts. Givenchy’s first designs were done for Jacques Fath in 1945. Later he did designs for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong (1946) – working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior, followed by 5 years working for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli before he opened his own design house at the Plaine Monceau in Paris in 1952.

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in 1954 film «Sabrina».

His style was marked by innovation, contrary to the more conservative designs by Dior. At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use of rather cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued curiosity through their design. Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy’s fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of «Sabrina». He went on to design the famous «little black dress» she wore in «Breakfast at Tiffany’s».

In 1961, when Audrey Hepburn got the roll of Holly Golightly, designer Hubert de Givenchy designed the famous black dress which became one of the most iconic clothing items of the 20th century.

He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L’Interdit and Le de Givenchy) and made Audrey Hepburn the face of it. For the very first time a star was the face of a fragrance’s advertising campaign and probably the last time that it was done for free, only by friendship.

At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Although a renowned designer, Givenchy not only sought inspiration from the lofty settings of haute couture but also in such avant-garde environments as Limbo, the store in Manhattan’s East Village. In 1954, Givenchy’s prêt-à-porter collection debuted.

1957 Babydoll Dress by Givenchy

The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch was acquired by LVMH in 1989. As of today, LVMH owns Parfums Givenchy as well.

De Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995. His successor to head the Givenchy label was John Galliano, followed by a five-year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julien Macdonald. As we all know, Riccardo Tisci revived the Givenchy brand tremendously from 2005 until 2017. This season, Clare Waight Keller presented her first runway show for Givenchy.

Rest in peace, Hubert de Givenchy and thank you for all those wonderful fashionable moments.
You will never be forgotten!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Getty Images

The guessing is over! Breaking news… Burberry has named its new chief creative officer, effective March 12, 2018 and its is no other than Riccardo Tisci who succeeds Christopher Bailey after 17 years at the British fashion house.

Christopher Bailey’s final collection for S/S 2018 at Burberry pays homage to LGBT pride and was shown in London last month.

Tisci himself had been more than a decade creative director at Givenchy – modernizing  the Maison’s aesthetic for an entirely new generation of customers (for a previous post, click here please). Being known for his dark and subversive collections with religious and gothic references, he made Madonna, Rottweiler and Bambi sweaters popular and modernized floral prints.

In his new role, Tisci will be based in London and direct all of Burberry’s collections, presenting his first for the brand in September. A city where it all started for him at the age of 19. Born in Taranto in Southern Italy, fatherless and the youngest of nine siblings – all of whom were female – Tisci escaped to the British metropole and attended the prestigious Central St. Martins.

Marco Gobbetti

In 2005, Marco Gobbetti, who was president and CEO at Givenchy at that time, spotted the talent of «unknown» Tisci and hired him as a designer. We all know that this was a great decision as Tisci has transformed Givenchy’s womenswear, menswear and accessories into something uber cool. Now, Gobbetti seems to look for a revival as he is now Burberry’s chief executive.

Towards BoF, Gobbetti said: «Riccardo is one of the most talented designers of our time. His designs have an elegance that is contemporary and his skill in blending streetwear with high fashion is highly relevant to today’s luxury consumer. Riccardo’s creative vision will reinforce the ambitions we have for Burberry and position the brand firmly in luxury.»

«I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand,» added Tisci. «I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti.»

I cannot wait to see Tisci’s first collection for Burberry…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy and Burberry

For the past couple of seasons, niche bag brands have been on the rise. Hot new brand to know WANDLER is guaranteed to be a regular fixture on your Instagram feeds and in street style galleries. Amsterdam-based founder Elza Wandler wanted to create bags that are beautiful yet simple including her must-have trapeze-shaped ‘Hortensia’.

Pre-order now Wandler‘s Hortensia trapeze leather shoulder bag in cognac.

After launching in 2017, Wandler was picked up by many influential stockists including Net-à-Porter, MatchesFashion and Browns. Towards BoF Elza Wandler said: «I think the brand has created a maturity around itself which has a certain luxury appeal attached to it that you don’t see with many contemporary bag brands. Personally, I’m not attracted to super clean, but equally I don’t gravitate towards a total Versace look. However, the mix of these two is what excites me and I don’t feel like you see that a lot in fashion today.»

Elza Wandler

Her fashion and branding studies at Amsterdam Fashion Institute provided Wandler with a solid foundation to balance design and commerce. «There I learned that the business doesn’t stop after you make a product. There is a lot that comes with it like branding, image-making and social media,» she continued. And I couldn’t agree more…

I am sure we will see a lot more of Wandler in the future…

LoL, Sandra

So beautiful: Pink Hortensia Mini Leather Shoulder Bag

Trending in pastel: Green Miles Leather Cross Body Bag

Photos: Courtesy of Wandler, © Leonardo Scotti

This breaking news for all fashion lovers. One of the industry’s leading image-makers and trendsetters, Hedi Slimane, was announced by LVMH today as Artistic, Creative and Image Director of Céline with effect from February this year. He will direct all Céline collections, extending to men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.

Hedi Slimane rose to fame during his tenure as the Creative Director for Dior Homme (also under the helmet of LVMH) in the mid-2000’s. You could say that he invented the skinny suit. A decade later and maybe most notoriously, he went to Yves Saint Laurent and rebranded the label simply Saint Laurent. Its entire visual identity was reengineered by moving the design studio to Los Angeles and showing revamped rocker looks each season. Hedi Slimane’s talent and his remarkable ability to anticipate and express in a unique way the evolutions and desires of his age, will ensure a further era of exceptional growth and development for the House of Céline.

Bernard Arnault commented: “I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH Group and taking the reins of our Céline Maison. He is one of the most talented designers of our time.  I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme, which he launched to global critical acclaim in the 2000s. His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this Maison. Hedi will oversee and develop all creativity for both women’s and men’s fashion, but also for leather goods, accessories and fragrances. He will leverage his global vision and unique aesthetic virtuosity in further building an iconic French Maison”.

Hedi Slimane said: “I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline. I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers”.

LoL, Sandra

Photo of Hedi Slimane | Y.R.

My avid readers know how much I love MARY KATRANTZOU. Since her first collection, I have been collecting her designs. So I was over the moon when she told me to be part of her first solo exhibition that opened its doors this weekend at Dallas Contemporary as part of its first season for the new year. «Mary, the Queen of Prints,» explores the innovative work and kaleidoscopic world of fashion designer Mary Katrantzou. In addition to the museum celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2018, the upcoming year also coincides with the 10th anniversary of Mary Katrantzou’s brand.

With Mary at the Net-à-Porter Dinner in London in a S/S 2014 printed top and skirt.

Mary Katrantzou has said: «Print can be as definitive as a cut or a drape and allows a woman to filter beauty found in design, in a subversive way. All my prints are constructed through digital technology. Digital print allows me to experiment with print in a way that fine art and other methods could not. It opens up a huge spectrum for possibility; I can create possibility out of impossibility, surrealism out of realism and both vice versa.»

Following previous collaborations with top cultural institutions such as the New York City Ballet and the Paris Opera, this exhibition will be the first time the entirety of the designer’s previous collections is represented under one roof.

«Mary, the Queen of Prints» will be on view at Dallas Contemporary, 161 Glass Street, in Dallas, Texas, until March 4th, 2018.

A beautiful dress from the F/W 2011 collection photographed by Tim Walker for Vogue.

Curated by Museum Director Peter Doroshenko and Director of Exhibitions Justine Ludwig, the exhibition will consist of approximately 200 garments as well as accessories, sketches, and textiles by Katrantzou. The works reveal Katrantzou’s diverse inspirations ranging from the pages of Architectural Digest to Fantasia, and provide a closer look at her inventive tailoring and techniques.

Presented in color groupings rather than chronologically (Katrantzou’s masterful use of color has been central to her aesthetic since the beginning of her brand), the garments create a prismatic field of color within Dallas Contemporary’s distinctive space and reflect the designer’s recognition in the industry as a creative mind and innovator.

With Mary at the UBS Unique Event in London in 2017

ABOUT MARY KATRANTZOU
Born in Athens, Mary Katrantzou studied Architecture at Rhode Island School of Design and graduated with a BA in Textile design and an MA in Fashion from Central Saint Martins. Her graduation show in 2008, which featured trompe l’oeil prints of oversized jewelry on jersey-bonded dresses, took the industry by storm, immediately securing a number of prestigious stockists, notably Browns, Joyce, Colette. After her graduation show, Mary Katrantzou established her namesake brand. She now boasts over 100 high-end stockists ranging from Selfridges to Joyce, Matchesfashion.com, Harrods and Saks.

Wearing the Ivory Dress from the F/W 2012 collection.

Mary Katrantzou was dubbed “The Queen of Print” by press, a moniker that recognized the enormous influence of her work in the medium. Katrantzou plays with clashing aesthetics, mixes technology and craftsmanship and explores opulent innovative embellishments in a world that is feminine, innovative, fresh and elegant.

Winning the Swiss Textiles Award in 2010 in Zurich

In 2010 Katrantzou was awarded the Swiss Textiles Award in recognition of her pioneering textile treatments; in November 2011, she received the British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent, in February 2012 was awarded Young Designer of the Year at the Elle Style Awards. In 2015, Katrantzou received the Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, was awarded Glamour designer of the year, Harper’s Bazaar Breakthrough Designer as well as the British Fashion Award for New Establishment Designer.

In Mary’s Powdy Print from the F/W 2012 collection.

Prestigious collaborations have included capsule ranges with Swarovski, Longchamp, Moncler, Topshop, Cowshed and Adidas Originals. Mary has also collaborated with artist Pablo Bronstein at the ICA, designed costumes for the NYC Ballet and the Paris Opera and her work has been exhibited at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art and at Lord Rothschild’s «Creatures and Creations» exhibition at Waddesdon Manor in the UK.

Mary’s Girls: from Mira Mikati to Nicky Hilton, from Sabine Getty to Wendy Wu – we all celebrated with opening of «Creatures and Creations» in May 2017.

From left to right: Eugenie Niarchos, Sandra Bauknecht, Elena Perminova, Miroslava Duma, Mary Katrantzou, Tamu McPherson, Elisa Nalin, Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis and Viviana Volpicella.

COLLECTION HISTORY
S/S 2018 – The Youth of the Year
F/W 2017 – A Fantasia  /  S/S 2017 – Minoan
F/W  2016 – Rodeo & Juliette  /  S/S 2016 – Cosmology
F/W 2015 – Kenophobia  /  S/S 2015 – Pangea and Panthalassa
F/W 2014 – Symbolism  /  S/S 2014 – The Shoes
F/W 2013 – Landscapes   /  S/S 2013 – Postage Stamps
F/W 2012 – Ordinary Objects  /   S/S 2012 – Flower Fields
F/W 2011 – Objets d’Art   /  S/ 2011 – Rooms
F/W 2010 – Madame Pompadour   /  S/S 2010 – Blown Glass
F/W 2009 – A Woman in a Bottle /  S/S 2009 – Jewels

Below you see how many pieces of the exhibition are from my closet. So proud of my personal collection and the fact that I have been part of the Katrantzou family from day one.

Serendipity Dress from the S/S 2011 collection

Jewel Tree Dress from the F/W 2011 collection

Kite Runner Dress from the F/W 2011 collection

Caramolengo Dress from the F/W 2011 collection

Harp Hazard Dress from the S/S 2012 collection

Fishtank Dress from the S/S 2012 collection

Powder Gun Dress from the F/W 2012 collection

Expandit Dress from the F/W 2012 collection

Alias Dress from the S/S 2013 collection

Ziggy Dress from the S/S 2013 collection

Orlyon Dress from the F/W 2013 collection

Godiva Jacket and Godiva Skirt from the S/S 2014 collection

Olivier Coat and Charm Butterfly Dress from the F/W 2016 collection

Hemera Dress from the S/S 2017 collection

Look 32 (Fustaella Shirt – Dove Top – Pantheon Skirt)  from the S/S 2017 collection

Nausheen Fox Fur Coat from the F/W 2017 collection

To many more year to come! Congrats, Mary, I love you!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Mary Katrantzou and © Sandra Bauknecht

Having an apartment in one of the most prestigious cities that has been designed by Roberto Cavalli sounds too good to be true? No, not at all, it will soon become reality. A new luxury tower in Dubai named «I Love Florence» will be the first in the world to carry the «Roberto Cavalli» brand, bringing the glitz and glamour of runway to private homes. For the first time, Roberto Cavalli designs the interiors of an iconic residential tower with a range of exquisite home accessories and ornate fittings from Cavalli interiors.

Gian Giacomo Ferraris, Chief Executive Officer of Roberto Cavalli, said: “We are excited to work on this project that combines the sophistication of fascinating Florence with the famed luxury of dazzling Dubai. The interiors of the lavish 34-storey waterfront skyscraper, located in one of the world’s greatest urban transformations, will offer its residents a refined living experience that also echoes the romantic vibes of the rustic streets of Florence.»

Work on the AED 800 million «I Love Florence» tower, developed by Dar Al Arkan, the largest listed real estate developer in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, and located on Dubai Water Canal in the Business Bay area, will commence in January 2018.
Yousef Bin Abdullah Al Shelash, Chairman of Dar Al Arkan, declared: «When we set out to draw our vision to become leaders in global real estate development, we decided to only settle for the best, hence our choice of Dubai Canal as a location, and the epitome of Italian luxury, Roberto Cavalli, to conceptualise and create truly outstanding living spaces, not only in the residential units, but across the tower’s amenities, including the lobbies, gym, swimming pool, yoga area, outdoor training area, and hallways. Residents and visitors will experience a true Florentine feeling.»

Towering over the 3.2 kilometres man-made waterway, the high-rise will combine stunning views of the canal’s vibrant outdoor and night scenes, with the elegance of the Florence’s Arno riverside, reflected in the interiors sketched by one of Italy’s most famed design houses. This is the first time ever that the iconic «Roberto Cavalli» fashion brand lends its name to a real estate development, anywhere in the world, to present rich interiors that project bespoke living.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

This morning, I heard the news that Jonathan Saunders has resigned as chief creative officer of DVF (Diane von Furstenberg). He joined the brand in May 2016, after shuttering his own critically acclaimed but financially ailing London-based label after 12 years, and was responsible for the overall creative direction which means he was in charge from the corporate identity to product to store design to marketing.

Celebrating the collaboration in 2016: Saunders and von Furstenberg – the affection didn’t last for long…

Over the course of his design career, Saunders has become known for innovation, craftsmanship and his creative use of print, pattern and color. His inspired understanding of fashion has also resulted in collaborations with dancers, artists and interiors companies alike. Past honors include the 2012 British Fashion Council/Vogue Fashion Fund Award , and the 2012 British Fashion Award in Emerging Talent – Menswear. Born in Scotland, Saunders graduated from Glasgow School of Art in 1999 with a BA in Printed Textiles, going on to graduate from Central Saint Martins in 2002 with an MA with distinction in Printed Textiles.

Diane von Furstenberg in 1976 

Diane von Furstenberg first came into prominence in the 1970s, when she created her first and now-iconic jersey wrap dress, which came to symbolize power and independence for a generation of women and helped establish Diane as a legendary and crucial fixture in the industry. By 1976, more than five million dresses had been sold and Diane, at only 29 years old, was featured on the cover of Newsweek. After years of ups and downs, the collection was relaunched in 1997. Her first creative director, Yvan Mispelaere, left the company in 2012 after two years, as did Michael Herz, who was her artistic director from 2014 to 2016. According to reports, Diane is still involved herself very much in her eponymous company, which seemed to have caused some degree of friction with Saunders. Moreover, rumors are that she is planning to sell a stake in her company and has hired investment banking firm Michel Dyens & Co. to explore options.

Diane von Furstenberg Pre-fall 2018

Till today, DVF has struggled to re-establish its place in the market. Saunders’ last collection for DVF was Pre-fall 2018, presented earlier this month. To be continued…

TO SHOP DVF ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of DVF

Making childhood dreams come true. In February next year, I will be attending the Vienna Opera Ball and I couldn’t be any happier about it especially because one of my favorite designer duos, DOLCE & GABBANA, has collaborated with SWAROVSKI to create a richly detailed and precious tiara to be worn by the debutantes at this prestigious event.

Dolce & Gabbana

It took 702 Swarovski crystals to create this richly detailed headpiece that is inspired from Mozart’s opera «Le nozze di Figaro», in particular, the words sung in the eighth scene of the first act: «Giovani lieti – fiori spargete!» («Happy maids, scatter flowers!»).

This image has been poetically reflected in the floral design of the tiara, where delicate blossoms meet organic curved leaves.

Each year, Swarovski works with a different international designer to impart the debutantes’ tiaras with extraordinary brilliance. In 2017, it was for example Karl Lagerfeld who created a dream-like piece (for the previous post click here please).

Swarovski’s collaboration has existed since the 1950s. Organized by the Vienna State Opera, the event is the cultural highlight of the Viennese ball season and I cannot wait to experience it myself.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Swarovski / Dolce Gabbana

«Sassy, rather rebellious, Jean Luc Amsler will always be there where we least expect him.»

Franco-Swiss fashion designer JEAN LUC AMSLER was born in Switzerland in the mid-1960’s. After his studies, he moved to Antwerp and then to Paris, where he started his fashion career in the mid 1980’s. He gained experience by working at renowned houses such as Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Louis Scherrer, Christian Dior and Cartier, just to name a few. By 1992, Jean Luc felt that he had reached the point where he could design for himself, and he started his own eponymous couture brand in Paris.

For us, he shares his insider scoop on the city I live in with us, ZURICH. With the stunning backdrop of the Swiss Alps, the city offers a unique mixture of attractions. Jean Luc’s tips are absolutely great – even I have discovered something I didn’t know about before. Enjoy!

Your favourite city?
ZURICH, because it is my grand father’s city.

Your favourite hotel?
THE DOLDER GRAND, where I presented my first show in 1994.
Kurhausstrasse 65, 8032 Zurich, Phone +41 44 456 60 00

Your favourite restaurant?
KRONENHALLE, I still have great memories there with Gustav Zumsteg in 1995.
Rämistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich, Phone +41 44 262 99 00

Zurich, 1979. Yves Saint Laurent with Gustav Zumsteg’s mother Hulda Zumsteg (left) at Kronenhalle.

(Gustav Zumsteg was the owner of the restaurant Kronenhalle until his death in 2005. Moreover, he had worked his way up from the level of apprentice to chief designer at the traditional silk company Abraham, which he later acquired. Zumsteg collaborated with renowned Parisian fashion houses, such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, and most of all Yves Saint Laurent, with whom he became very close.)

Your favourite bar or nightclub?
TINA BAR, for its selective cocktail menu and the cosy atmosphere. It’s also in the middle of the old town, a great area to walk around and get lost during the night.
Niederdorfstr. 10, 8001 Zurich, Phone +41  44 250 76 80

Your favourite sightseeing spot?
LINDENHOF HILL, because there you can admire the whole city and also read a book in the park. A quiet spot in the heart of the city.
Lindenhof, 8001 Zurich

(The Lindenhof is a moraine hill and a public square in the historic center of Zurich. It is the site of the Roman and Carolingian era Kaiserpfalz around which the city has historically grown. The hilltop area -including its prehistoric, Roman, and medieval remains – is listed as a Swiss heritage site of national significance.)

Your favourite park?
The BRUNO WEBER PARK. It’s like entering in a fairytale, a mix of art and fantasy.
Zur Weinrebe 3, 8953 Dietikon, Phone +41 44 740 02 71

Your favourite beach ?
COCOA BEACH, the perfect place for a drink when the sun goes down. It’s a little island on the roof of the city.
Förrlibuckstrasse 115, 8005 Zurich, Phone +41 43 444 40 50

Your favourite shop?
MARKENTUSSI in Zurich’s North, it is a heaven for vintage clothes and furniture. They carry Chanel, Louboutin… many Parisian brands.
Kornhausstrasse 43, 8037 Zurich, Phone +41 43 557 63 93

Your must-have accessory?
My glasses from VIU, I discovered this new Swiss designed eyewear brand and I love it!
Viu Flaghsip Store Zurich, Grüngasse 4, 8004 Zurich, +41 44 508 79 04

The best soundtrack for this destination?
REQUIEM FOR A DREAM composed by Clint Mansell for the eponymous movie, it represents dream and drama…

Annemarie Schwarzenbach (23 May 1908 – 15 November 1942)

The best book to read while being on vacation there?
LA QUÊTE DU RÉEL by Anne Marie Schwarzenbach, it means the quest of reality.

(Born in Zurich, Annemarie Schwarzenbach was a homosexual Swiss writer, journalist, photographer and traveler. Her father, Alfred, was a wealthy businessman in the silk industry. From an early age she began to dress and act like a boy, a behaviour not discouraged by her parents, and which she retained all her life. In fact in later life she was often mistaken for a young man.)

Thank you, Jean Luc Amsler, for sharing your insider scoop on Zurich with us!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Jean Luc Amsler, © Marianne Feilchenfeldt-Breslauer († 2001), © Richard Emler and courtesy of the different locations

I am in Marrakesh at the moment and this morning I woke up to the safest news. One of my favorite designers Azzedine Alaïa passed away at the age of 77.

Known for his signature sculptural silhouettes and meticulous craftmanship, plus an exquisite line-up of shoes and bags, he rose to prominence in the ’80s. He was one of the few designers to completely ignore the traditional fashion seasons, creating his must-have pieces at his own pace.

Azzedine Alaïa with me

After moving to Paris in 1957, the Tunisian born Azzedine started his career at Dior, then went on to work at Guy Laroche and Thierry Mugler, before opening his own atelier in the late 1970s.

One of my favorite pictures in fashion history: Naomi Campbell photographed by Herb Ritts in Alaïa

He worked closely with celebrity fans including Naomi Campbell, who opened his last couture show in July in Paris. RIP Azzedine, you will be missed!

TO SHOP A LAST PIECE OF ALAÏA, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Alaïa and © Sandra Bauknecht