Sandra‘s Closet

Personally speaking, I am hopelessly devoted to Mary Katrantzou‘s designs and her F/W 2012 collection is my favourite for the next season. During Paris Fashion Week, I went to the London Showrooms to explore her amazing creations. I love Mary. She is so crazily successful but still completely down to earth and took all the photos of me in her to-die-for dresses. We went for lunch and played dress-up afterwards. I have fallen in love with every single piece.

“A pencil, a spoon, a hanger, a chess piece, a hedge, a typewriter: For F/W 2012 Mary Katrantzou discovers the beauty in the everyday, elevating the mundane to the sublime in a collection where product placement becomes placement print.”

For the first time, Mary decides to match: To match everything. The collection is divided into seven distinct sections, each featuring prints composed from objects associated with a single colour in shades of white, blue, green, ivory, yellow, red and black, Models are saturated in a statement hue, from head to toe, working through a colour spectrum as graphic and striking as a Crayola crayon box.

Finally the wait is over! The new-season is here! Prepare to get lost in dizzying detail and sumptuous colour of the princess of print, with luxe embroideries and outstanding cuts that are all highly collectables at the end. Available from today at net-à-porter.com and matchesfashion.com.

Please enjoy all the photos below of my must-haves and see Mary’s love for detail!

LoL, Sandra

WHITE & IVORY

Gleam Coat

Ivory Dress with many layers of chiffon and painted leather sleeves

Powdy Dress with long sleeves, Powdy Biker Jacket and Powdy Scarf

YELLOW

Powder Gun Dress

The most breathtaking dress of the collection: Sprinter Fritz Dress
It came straight from the Ritz for me where Anna Dello Russo had tried it earlier that day. Those bendable pencils are absolutely divine! This dress is a piece of art!

Sweet Mary brought it to perfection on me!

RED

Typo Dress – Let me be your secretary!

Roseterrier Dress, printed leather with pleated skirt – amazing!

BLUE

GREEN

Expandit Dress with bolsters and embroideries by the famous French Haute Couture Embroidery House Lesage who collaborated for the first time with a London designer

BLACK

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

The legendary fashion house Paco Rabanne that ruled in the 1960’s has started to make a comeback.

In 2011, Indian designer Manish Arora had been hired as Creative Director of Women’s Ready-to-Wear and showed his first collection for the French brand, owned by Puig Beauty and Fashion Group, for the S/S 2012 season during Paris Fashion Week. Now, after only two seasons at the helmet of the house, he left. A split that appeared abrupt and unexpected.

This week, the Paco Rabanne House announced the appointment of Lydia Maurer, 29 years of age, as the new Artistic Director.

Born in Germany of a Colombian mother and a German father, she travelled throughout her childhood, following her parents between Europe and South America. Then at sixteen: Paris, and fashion. In 2006, 24 years of age, freshly graduated from Studio Berçot, Lydia starts working for Yves Saint Laurent. This is where she learns the precision and discipline of a great Maison. A change of scenery the following year with the launch and development of Rue du Mail, with designer Martine Sitbon. For four years, Lydia will learn the ins and outs of the fashion industry: an enriching and intense journey. Third encounter with Parisian fashion in 2010, Lydia Maurer makes joins the Givenchy Womens-ready-to-Wear studio where she takes care of the capsule collection, capturing the essence of Riccardo Tisci’s vision of the prestigious house.

Last November, Lydia Maurer took the reins at the Paco Rabanne studio. A role tailored to her, a bespoke experience. Serving a fashion ever in motion, honoring the body, Lydia is sensitive to the alliance of cultures. Fascinated by 60s and 70s arts, which emphasize the material and can transform metal into divine sculptures, she naturally inscribes her universe of creation into the heritage of the Paco Rabanne House.

It rejoices her: “It is a great honor to be taking on the artistic direction of such an emblematic house at the heart of Parisian creation. I am very impressed by the creative power of Paco Rabanne, a House that from the very start strips out all conventions, using, among other things, an assemblage of unexpected materials. A creative approach based on both technology and craftsmanship, resulting in a fashion that is instinctive and playful”.

Lydia Maurer will present her first S/S 2013 collection in Paris this upcoming October.

Outrageous and sometimes impractical designer Paco Rabanne came onto the scene in 1966, when he showed his first collection, a provocative manifesto titled “12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials”, the dresses embellished with rhodoid sequins and plaques. Clothes suddenly became an artistic expression of their time. Courting scandal and plaudits, Paco Rabanne never mellowed in his mission to question the process of thinking and showing fashion, preempting the conceptual turn that designers would take as the 21st century neared.

Paco Rabanne 1966 – Photographed by Ed Pfizenmaier

With one-off handmade pieces, pioneering the recycling of materials, event clothing, and ephemeral items, throughout his career Paco Rabanne reveled in experimenting with revolutionary projects and adapting materials for his own uses: hammered metal, knitted fur, aluminum jersey, dresses made from paper or fluorescent leather or fiber glass, to mention just a few of the more emblematic examples.

Paco Rabanne – Vogue Paris 1969

In 1971, he was recognized as a couturier by his peers when he became a member of the storied Chambre Syndicale de la Couture.

In 1999, after more than thirty years of internationally acclaimed creativity, Paco Rabanne announced his retirement from the world of fashion. In 2010 he was decorated an Officer of the Legion d’Honneur by the Frech culture minister, a timely acknowledgement of his work as a visionary designer and innovation originator in the world of fashion.

Here are some of his iconic pieces:

1966 – Dress in aluminium disks

1996  – Plastic and metal bubble dress

1997 – Plastic and silvered metal space

1997 – Dress in transparent rhodoid and water

Given the history of the label, I hope that Paco Rabanne will be back amongst the most renowned avant-garde fashion brands in the very near future.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Paco Rabanne

In celebration of the spirit of craftsmanship, the Hermès Festival des Métiers (Festival of Crafts) made its first stop in Zurich – Switzerland. The French house’s first world-travelling exhibit invites you to meet with the artisans responsible for creating some of the world’s most luxurious leather goods, silk scarves, china and more.

Ever wondered what goes into the making of an Hermès product? Or why the Kelly bag is such a coveted item? Discover the Hermès universe your own way and enjoy the passion that the craftsmen put into every item. As one of them told me, their effort and long hours spent making those pieces is all worth it, once a customer wears and treasures their handiwork.

Open to the public, this free admission event is located at EWZ-Unterwerk Selnau (Selnaustr. 25, Zurich) starting today through June 10th, 2012 from 11 am- 6pm every day. It is a great experience for kids as well.

For all of you that are living abroad, here are some photos that I took yesterday at the pre-opening. Enjoy the craftsmanship!

Hermès has very high requirements for leather and the artisans will take time to find the best one to use. The difference lies also in how the bags are made by hand. It will take approximately 30 hours to create one single piece with only 3 produced per week. This explains the long waiting list for their iconic Birkin or Kelly bags.

It is pretty impressive to watch the craftsman assemble the really tine pieces of the movement for a mechanical watch.

The artwork for the famous silk scarves is designed by an artist, but the Hermès artisans will need to engrave the silkscreens by hand before starting the printing process.

At the printing station, you can see how each silkscreen, one for each colour, are precisely aligned and printed onto silk. Every single aspect of a silk scarf is done by Hermès: They rear their own silkworms, produce their own twills and mix their own dyes. After the printing, the scarves are left to dry, then the colours are locked in during a steam bath. After that, the silk scarves are washed to make them smooth and coated with a protective finish. Finally, they will be hand-rolled and hand-hemmed along the edges by craftsmen.

Every carré (the French name for it) has its own name, as for example the famous Brides de gala that was sketched in 1957 by Hugo Grygkar and which is still used these days.

Perfection and quality is essential to Hermès, the same applies to the tie making process. A craftswoman explains how the twills are rolled, folded and subsequently stitched into ties, using the same silk as for the scarves.

There are not many artisans in the world who can perform this process. Those silk scarves are only made by special order. It is a thicker kind of twill that comes with a velour-like coat. The craftswoman takes away parts of it with a sharp pointed tool. Just to do those red flowers takes her six weeks. She needs to be extra careful in order not to destroy the precious fabric.

The artisan uses real gold to paint the beautiful embellishments of the crystal glasses. The brown colour of the gold will change in the oven. To achieve the shiny effect, each glass has to be buffed by hand.

The fabulous china and porcelain products are also carefully hand-painted by artisans. After watching the process, you feel guilty for every piece you dropped in the past.

Also of interest is the house’s glove-making. When I asked the glover what is the best material for a glove, he said velour leather is his favourite to work with.

Hermès first started with horse-riding accessories and saddles. The equestrian heritage has been celebrated ever since. A saddle by Hermès is like a piece of art, especially when you look at those special editions with wings or leopard print that the saddler showed me yesterday.

I hope that you will enjoy this eye-opening exhibit as much as I did!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

French couturier Madame Carmen de Tommaso established Carven in 1945 with an atelier on the Champs-Élysées, and her clientele quickly grew to include screen stars and royals alike. Now, with former Givenchy designer Guillaume Henry at the creative helm, the fashion house is opening an exciting new chapter in ready-to-wear and accessories. Look out for statement cocktail dresses, perfectly embellished skirts and super cool sunglasses for amazing prices.

I am in love with Carven’s cuteness and you?

LoL, Sandra

Cutout cotton-poplin dress by Carven

Cady sable skirt by Carven

Linen and patent-leather slingbacks by Carven

Anastasie flip-up round-frame acetate sunglasses by Carven

Multicolour cotton clutch bag by Carven

Two years ago I wrote about Lounge Lover for the first time (for the previous post, please click here). Today, I would like to show you their newly launched website. The London based brand was created by Sylvie Gabriel in 2005 as a response to the growing need of sophisticated women for clothing in which they could feel comfortable and look beautiful while taking back those precious moments of relaxation, without giving in on style.

Lounge Lover is an affordable luxury collection of wearable classics and minimalist styles which transport the wearer from their busy lives, allowing them to embrace life in a more relaxed way. Not just an easy chic lifestyle label, more a relaxed state of mind, Lounge Lover creates urban and luxury clothing with a subtle fashion content and an emphasis on softness. Everything you need for the beach, travelling, your yoga practise or for just being comfy at home.

Below you can find some of my favourites. To shop, click here or on the banner at the end of this post and enjoy global free shipping until June 6, 2012.

LoL, Sandra

The Elsa Schiaparelli brand, co-star of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s new Costume Institute exhibition, is set to be relaunched by its current owner, Diego Della Valle, who purchased Schiaparelli’s trademarks and archives  in 2006, is on the hunt for a head designer which is said to be announced in October this year. Moreover, he has hired French model and actress Farida Khelfa as Schiaparelli’s spokeswoman.

Farida Khelfa

In July there will be the opening of the Maison Schiaparelli on Place Vendôme. The residence where the designer dominated the scene during the thirties and forties, her historical address revisited in a contemporaneous view maintaining the ateliers’ allure, where the new collection will be showcased. Starting March 2013, the first collection pieces will be presented. The new Schiaparelli universe, made up of very special collections representing her style well, with strong focus on accessories, for which Schiaparelli was the creator and protagonist. High quality fragrances and cosmetics, today, will exemplify her myth.

THE STORY OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI (1890-1973)

When everything is forgotten this is what survives! In the theatre that is fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli plays a leading role. Absent from the fashion scene for over 60 years, Schiaparelli continues to inspire designers and by the very fact, many of her clever creations are still familiar to us: the seamstress stockman-shaped perfume bottle, her press clipping prints, signature exotic butterflies that flutter on hundreds of her models, also on hats, buttons, necklaces … And Shocking Pink that no longer shocks since it has been copied by so many others!

Mostly due to her shoe-shaped hat, with its heel pointed towards the sky, posterity associates Schiaparelli with the Surrealists. Yet this is foregoing a little quickly that, in her case, this influence is closely intertwined with a baroque culture: brought up in Rome where her family lived in the Corsini palazzo, Schiaparelli is the heiress of these Italian artists whose fantasy she imposed in France. Indeed her destiny awaited her in Paris. A destiny she encountered almost by happenstance having accompanied a friend visiting Paul Poiret, the famous couturier encouraged her and decided of her future. In 1927, Schiaparelli presented her first line of knits that announced sportswear, but it was not until 1930 that her style evolved towards a conquering and evanescent femininity that were to become her signature brand image.

Schiaparelli and Dali

In the 30’s, Haute Couture invented itself. Considered until then as suppliers, couturiers escaped and became the gods of an Olympus of clothing with evanescent shores. Not only did Schiaparelli quickly make a name for herself in this Olympus, she was given a nickname: Schiap!

To the tomboy running out of steam, she opposed a poetic and amusing elegance. A woman of fantasy that never ran out of ideas: hand- painted lobsters on chiffon muslin, the first zipper to be used as a fashion accessory, telescopic, spiral or ice cream cone hats, a feather hat simulating a sleeping chicken, bird cage hats…looking more attentively at Schiaparelli’s models, their line is fluid, naturally flowing over a woman’s body that it respects… The waist is in the right place, the bosom beautifully defined and the length of the skirts precisely as it should be.

With her infallible flair, Chanel immediately pinpointed her rival. She loathed Schiaparelli and the feeling was mutual. Indeed, Mademoiselle was quite annoyed that a foreigner might be trampling her turf. And, as if that wasn’t enough, just around the corner from her territory, in the shadow of the Vendôme column where Schiaparelli first set up shop in 1934 and took Paris by storm. Schiaparelli signed her most impressive collections between 1935 and 1940. Real fireworks. A suite of improvisations on a theme that she showcases and pushes to its ultimate limits: the circus theme, Commedia dell’ arte, butterflies, astrology, a beetle line, a pagan collection, inspired by Botticelli and the Birth of Venus.

It’s always easy to analyze a situation in the light of the final result, but how can one not make the correlation between the stormy electricity that preceded war and the sputtering of Schiaparelli’s genius at the same time?

Elsa Schiaparelli

It should be pointed out in passing that she was never more at ease than during the bustle that occurs before the presentation of a collection. She revels in creating under the gun, to come up with last minute solutions, to resolve insurmountable problems with one snip of her scissors featuring the same untamable and free audacity that is the very quintessence of Haute Couture.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Let me introduce you to BoBo House, a brand new fashion label launched in early 2012.

Founder and designer, Eloise Lapidus brings her experience, fresh style, and Parisian charm to her line of apparel. As daughter of world-renowned French designer, Ted Lapidus, Eloise’s keen fashion sense has been instilled in her ever since childhood.

Introduced by her father’s designs, worn and coveted by icons such as Brigitte Bardot, Alain Delon, Francoise Hardy and John Lennon to name a few, Eloise is greatly inspired by ’60s and ’70s bourgoise bohemians, or “Bobos” of Paris and St. Tropez. Thus, her collections are comprised of classic pieces that are romantic while discreet and effortlessly sexy offering ultra‐soft tees, luxurious leggings and a bit of Parisian je‐ne‐sais‐quois like floral chiffon pareos and leathers vests. Pricepoints run from $85 – $499.

Very romantic rocker – I like!

BoBoHouse is now available at Los Angeles-it-girl-staple boutique SATINE. Jeannie Lee, Satine shop owner, describes Bobo House as “Whimsical, spontaneous and fresh.”
For other stockists, please click here.

If you are interested in a shopping guide for Los Angeles, click here for a previous post.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Satine Boutique and BoBo House

Meet Geneva-based contemporary jewelry designer Suzanne Syz and her unconventional, original designs.

Suzanne cites Andy Warhol, Francesco Clemente, Julian Schnabel, Jean Michel Basquiat and Jeff Koons – all of whom she was friends with when she lived in New York City in the 1980s – as influences on her art-inspired creations. She loves using unusual materials and radiant colours.

Her “Live Savers”, inspired by the famous American candy, belong to Suzanne’s iconic designs.

Isn’t that “Smarties” necklace (around CHF 100.000) absolutely divine?!

When I met her, she said: “Jewelry should be individual and reflect your personal style.” She takes this vision seriously. All her designs are highly individual one-of-a-kind pieces and there is no way that she will reproduce the exact same one.

Suzanne Syz is exclusively available at Landolf & Huber in Zurich, Switzerland – a jeweler that I can highly recommend.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Suzanne Syz

Meet Roksanda Ilincic, one of London’s leading ladies. Her creations are the epitome of effortless elegance and the Duchess of Cambridge and Michelle Obama are among her fans.

After graduating from Central St Martins, the Serbian-born, London-based designer launched her eponymous line in 2002 and quickly gained recognition for her utterly modern brand of eveningwear. Choose from column gowns and cocktail dresses in draped-to-perfection silks and satins.

Her must-have piece from the S/S 2012 runway is the über-fabulous Margot lantern-sleeve dress. Roksanda got her inspiration from Balenciaga’s ’50s original bell sleeves and updated the look amazingly (see above).

Available in mustard-yellow and navy at matches.com and in pink at net-à-porter.com.

I went for the pink version. Stay tuned for the upcoming photos.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Roksanda Illincic and Balenciaga

Here are some exciting news: Giorgio Armani is designing Lady Gaga’s wardrobe for her Born This Way Ball tour which kicks off in Seoul on April 27th. It is not the designer’s first time collaborating with Lady Gaga.

Remember her series of outfits specially designed for her that she wore on the occasion of the 2010 Grammy Awards ceremony, followed by a number of red carpet events.

“Collaborating with Lady Gaga is always an exciting experience for me. I admire the way she uses fashion as a scenic element and as a means to build a character,” says Giorgio Armani. “She is an artist of many talents and great intelligence. Creating stage costumes for her is a stimulating and creative exercise.”

The custom Giorgio Armani wardrobe created for Lady Gaga is characterized by extreme forms and futuristic materials – latex, metal, studs, PVC – crafted with couture savoir faire. Each outfit is completed with detailed, other-worldly accessories.
Enjoy your sneak preview of Armani’s amazing theatrical sketches:

The first design includes a black bodice made of tubular PVC elements connected with metal studs, with mirrored metal inserts to define a curvaceous design. The ensemble is highlighted by a matching headpiece, robotic thigh-high boots, and exaggerated gloves ending in mirrored nails.

Another look is created via a shiny black grid-patterned PVC bodice with matching headpiece and embroidered ankle boots.  Highlights include shoulders outlined by a play of sharp spikes, black Swarovski jet crystals and flowing fringe, creating a moving architecture.

On the third black bodice, transparent Plexiglas, black crystals and luminous studs create a Cubist composition of abstract guitars. The matching headpiece follows in the shape of a keyboard; the boots are black vinyl.

The final design is a long tunic with leg-o-mutton sleeves made of skin-toned latex. Luminous PVC elements create flashes of synthetic light inside the garment. The same avant garde lighting is featured on the triangle decorating the chest, on the headpiece, and on the platform of the matching latex ankle boots.

This is definitely not a “Bad Romance” between Lady Gaga and Giorgio Armani!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani