Sandra‘s Closet

A collaboration between Andrea Gullo, Director of Officine Gullo, and Edgardo Osorio, founder and Creative Director of the Italian luxury footwear brand Aquazzura, unites the world of fashion with that of design.

At Palazzo Corner Spinelli, in the San Marco district of Venice, on the Grand Canal, Edgardo resides in a beautiful residence that dates back to the end of the fifteenth century and is characterized by architecture that is representative of the transition from the Gothic to the Renaissance in Venetian art, evidenced by the façade on the canal.

Officine Gullo installed for the famous designer a kitchen in turquoise and nickel finishes in a kitchen environment, characterized by a striped painted parquet floor and hand-decorated walls. Exotic animals, flowers and brightly colored trees recall motifs of fine 18th-century Chinese porcelain and transport the observer to an exotic garden and to distant places.

Appliances
Hob with 4 burners and a coup de feu. One gas and one electric oven, fridge-freezer and dishwasher.

Colours and finishings
Turquoise & Satin Nickel.

I absolutely adore this kitchen. As I am in the process of furnishing my new home, I cannot wait to show you my new kitchen very soon… it turned out so beautifully.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Officine Gullo
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For F/W 2022, British designer Ian Griffiths, who joined Max Mara in 1987, seeked inspiration after seeing the major retrospective of the work of Sophie Taeuber-Arp at the Tate Modern in London. She was not only an artist, but also an architect, a dancer and a designer at the same time. During the turbulent early decades of the twentieth century, she met at Cabaret Voltaire in Zurich, with fellow artists of the avant-garde including Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee, Giorgio de Chirico, Max Ernst and Guillaume Apollinaire night after night. Their performances, publications, recitals and readings produced an astonishing new aesthetic: Dada, a call for peace corresponding with the outbreak of World War I, which resonates with the times we are living in now.

Max Mara F/W 22

From the beginning, Max Mara’s ethos has been to turn ideas into garments that women will not only desire but want to live in: an all-round wardrobe for the modern, stylish yet elegant strong woman. Always respecting the philosophy and iconic elements of the brand, the colour camel, for example, Ian Griffiths is constantly looking for styles that show self-expression. Whimsy was the desired effect of the teddy bear material for F/W 2022, which the designer cut not just into oversized enveloping coats, but also full skirts both short and long, dresses and even sweatpants.

Personally speaking, I was immediately drawn to the Mito camel hair maxi dress, «the teddy dress». This long dress comes with fitted sleeveless bodice in double pure camel fabric, with a slightly low waist. The wide skirt is made of pure camel teddy fabric, with slant pockets on the sides. It is lined with monogram fabric and comes with a concealed back zip fastening. For me, a must-have for my museum. Stay tuned to see me wearing it very soon!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Max Mara and © Sandra Bauknecht
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Named «The Diamond», Claridge’s Christmas Tree 2022 is designed by long-time friend of the hotel, Sandra Choi for Jimmy Choo, and realised by set designer Simon Costin.

This magnificent sculptural creation is crafted from reflective mirrors and accented with light which pulses and undulates. The diamond has long been a special icon in the world of Jimmy Choo with Sandra often dreaming of what it would be like to step inside one – therefore the tree is created for guests to actually enter and stand inside to take in a magical and shining, diamond-refracted space. The tree is finished with a giant, glittering bow topper – a nod to one of the key design themes of the brand’s winter collection.

«Claridge’s is a London icon. The perfect blend of glamour and decadence – great things happen at Claridge’s. There’s a magic energy as you enter the doors that’s contagious, from the warmth of the staff to the discreet buzz of guests in the lobby. And at night the hotel invites you to party. Claridge’s is a London jewel, it’s multifaceted, like the diamond that inspired our tree, like Jimmy Choo.» – Sandra Choi

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Claridge’s ©/ Darren-Gerrish
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Breaking news! Today, GUCCI announced that Alessandro Michele is exiting the House after nearly eight years with the brand. The Roman designer was hired by Tom Ford and worked than after Frida Giannini before taking over the helmet himself. With his maximalist vision, he changed the look of fashion and brought colorful looks to the runway. Unexpected color combinations, animals such as tigers, lions and bees were his favorites.

The Hacker Project, 2021

Michele had a flair for rule-breaking hookups. There was the F/W 2021 Hacker Project with Demna of Balenciaga, a Kering «colleague» and then a year later he collaborated with adidas collab. However, the brand was hit during corona and numbers haven’t been on the rise recently. GUCCI seems to suffer from brand fatigue.

Gucci x adidas, 2022

In a statement GUCCI CEO Marco Bizzarri said, «I was fortunate to have had the opportunity to meet Alessandro at the end of 2014, since then we have had the pleasure to work closely together as Gucci has charted its successful path over these last eight years. I would like to thank him for his 20 years of commitment to Gucci and for his vision, devotion, and unconditional love for this unique House during his tenure as Creative Director.»

S/S 2023 Welcome to Twinsburg show.

Alessandro Michele said: «There are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have. Today an extraordinary journey ends for me, lasting more than twenty years, within a company to which I have tirelessly dedicated all my love and creative passion. During this long period Gucci has been my home, my adopted family. To this extended family, to all the individuals who have looked after and supported it, I send my most sincere thanks, my biggest and most heartfelt embrace. Together with them I have wished, dreamed, imagined. Without them, none of what I have built would have been possible. To them goes my most sincerest wish: may you continue to cultivate your dreams, the subtle and intangible matter that makes life worth living. May you continue to nourish yourselves with poetic and inclusive imagery, remaining faithful to your values. May you always live by your passions, propelled by the wind of freedom.»

Personally speaking, I felt that GUCCI has become kind of arrogant lately. Its loyalty towards people who have been supporting the brand since a very long time has kind of disappeared. Let’s hope that the there will be a new prosperity in all ways, also on a human level as I love the brand a lot!

Thank you, Alessandro, for all the magic!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht / David Biedert Photography
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As FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022™ fever takes hold, Hublot announced a dedicated the official «Hublot Loves Football» campaign with 15 football icons and 15 one-of-a-kind football designs created by my beloved friend fashion designer Mira Mikati.

Hublot will serve as the tournament’s official timekeeper, timing all 64 matches, right through to the final in Doha’s Lusail Stadium on December 18. With more than 1 billion viewers, the FIFA World Cup™ tournament is the world’s most watched sports event.

Designer Mira Mikati and Kylian Mbappé  during a creative session for Hublot Loves Football.

To illustrate the campaign, Hublot’s love of football, and the brand’s commitment to beauty in diversity, Hublot invited Lebanese fashion designer Mira Mikati to design a special, happy, colourful «Hublot Loves Football» campaign logo that brims with optimism. Her hand-drawn and painted design captures a youthful, hopeful enthusiasm and communicates a spirit of unity.

Mira with me during Paris Fashion Week.

«Play is at the heart of all my designs. When I’m not playing with colour, I’m playing with words. Just as football sparks joy on the pitch, I want my work to be a constant supply of happiness. Dreams really can come true. Meeting Hublot’s ambassadors and discussing their dreams, passions and how far these drivers can take you was very special. By interpreting every player’s dream, with Hublot we want to inspire other to dream just as big. Whether it’s playing for your country or designing your own collection, we want to inspire the next generation to believe they can achieve anything.» – MIRA MIKATI

In addition, Hublot brought Mira together with 15 Hublot Ambassadors and Friends of the Brand to create 15 unique designs to represent the football of their dreams. Each is a one-off, a piece of art created to capture the themes of hope and universal respect, as well as the individual personalities of the football stars and their shared passion for football. Some are hand-drawn and painted, others crocheted, representing the human element in football. Football is the people’s sport.

My Mira Mikati looks: Back to the ’80s – Santa Monica – Greetings from Verona – Vacation – Never Rest – Mira Mikati

The colors of the rainbow, playful, happy and above all else, colorful – something that perhaps best describe my lovely Mira Mikati. Her designs exude happiness in every detail and love wearing her creations. I am so proud of her for designing those footballs in a rather male dominated field.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: @ Hublot/ Mirą Mikati and © Sandra Bauknecht / Nadia Krawiecka
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Breaking news! Burberry has appointed Daniel Lee as its new chief creative officer, replacing Riccardo Tisci, who is stepping down after presenting his final runway show for the British luxury brand on Monday. The end of Tisci’s near five-year tenure follows the arrival of Jonathan Akeroyd as Burberry’s new chief executive earlier this year who is supposed to accelerate growth.

Riccardo Tisci with me

Tisci was the creative force behind former chief executive Marco Gobbetti‘s strategy to elevate the position of the 166-year-old brand in the luxury sector. His designs, many of which featured a new Thomas Burberry «TB» monogram, attracted a younger and more diverse community of customers to the brand.

Tisci’s last show for Burberry

Lee, who was creative director at Italy’s Bottega Veneta for three years until 2021, and who has previously worked at Celine, Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan, was a «new kid on the block» when he was named creative director of Kering’s Bottega Veneta at age 32 in 2018.

A funny coincidence is that Lee was born in Yorkshire where Burberry manufactures its famous trench coats, and he said that «he was honoured to join the fashion house and build on Tisci’s legacy.» During a three-year tenure at the house known for its leather-weaving techniques and logo-free products, Lee created must-have bags and shoes fashionistas around the globe raved about. He used ultra-touchable materials, unexpected proportions and bold colors to create products that rapidly turned around Bottega Veneta’s sales, which has been slipping for several years. However, after he left Bottega Veneta, rumors were that he was horrible to work with and treated his colleagues not in a nice way. Of course, this is only a rumor and nobody officially addressed it.

Some of Lee’s designs for Bottega Veneta

The brand stated in a press release: «Bottega Veneta and Daniel Lee are announcing their joint decision to end their collaboration.» «I am very grateful to Daniel for having brought his passion and energy to Bottega Veneta,» said Kering’s CEO Francois-Henri Pinault in the release. «His singular vision made the House’s heritage relevant for today and put it back to the center of the fashion scene.»

No matter what Lee does or did, his designs are amazing and this is what counts. I cannot wait to see what his vision is for Burberry!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Bottega Veneta, © Burberry and © Sandra Bauknecht
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ISSEY MIYAKE, Japanese fashion designer, died on Friday, August 5th, 2022, of liver cancer in Tokyo. He was 84. Miyake, whose name became a byword for Japan’s economic and fashion prowess in the 1980s, was best known for his innovative origami-like designs, the so-called «micro pleating», creating skirts, dresses and trousers with prisms of unfolding shapes, that have lately enjoyed a surge in popularity among a new and younger consumer base.

Kazunaru Miyake was born on April 22, 1938. He walked with a pronounced limp, the result of surviving the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima, his hometown, on Aug. 6, 1945. His mother died three years later from radiation poisoning. He graduated in 1963 from Tama Art University in Tokyo, where he majored in design, followed by studies in Paris during the student protests of 1968, and a stint in New York.

ISSEY MIYAKE’s first collection was launched in New York in 1971, and began to be shown in Paris Fashion Week from F/W 1973.
From the very beginning to this day, Issey Miyake’s design has focused on the concept of «A Piece of Cloth». The Japanese designer broke the boundaries between East and West and pursued «the body, the fabric covering it and a comfortable relationship between the two» as a fundamental concept, both shocking and resonating with people the world over.

S/S 2022

ISSEY MIYAKE has grown to include a vast number of creative personnel and innovative new techniques, but its core design style – creating clothes from original materials starting with the research of a single thread – has transcended generations. The brand is led by designer Satoshi Kondo since S/S 2020, as it explores the relationship between the body and the clothes with creative ideas for modern women.

ISSEY MIYAKE’s second line Pleats Please is a collection of clothes that are a product in themselves, made with a unique «garment pleating» technique where the materials are developed from a single thread and pleats are added after sewing the clothes into shape. First launched in the ISSEY MIYAKE line in 1988, this pleats line grew until it finally became a brand of its own with the launch of the S/S 1994 collection.
These clothes combine functionality – they’re light and wrinkle-proof, they don’t need to be dry-cleaned, and they can be folded to a compact size for easy storage and carrying – with a versatility that makes them suitable for all settings in your daily life. Comfortable and beautiful too, these clothes have become deeply entrenched in the daily lives of modern women. This brand reflects Issey Miyake’s fundamental concept that «design is not for philosophy, but for life,» and continues to evolve today.

His proprietary heat treating system meant that the accordionlike pleats in his designs could be machine washed, would never lose their shape and offered the ease of loungewear. He also produced the black turtleneck that became part of the signature look of Steve Jobs, the Apple co-founder.
His Bao Bao bag, made from mesh fabric layered with small colorful triangles of polyvinyl, has long been an accessory of choice for creative industries.

His designs found their way onto the 1982 cover of Artforum — unheard-of for a fashion designer at the time — and into the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. In 2010, he received the Order of Culture, Japan’s highest honor for the arts.

«I don’t consider myself a fashion designer. Anything that’s ‘in fashion’ goes out of style too quickly. I don’t make fashion. I make clothes,» Miyake told the magazine ParisVoice in 1998.

«I am most interested in people and the human form,» Mr. Miyake told The Times in 2014. «Clothing is the closest thing to all humans.»

Rest in peace, Mr. Miyake! Your legacy will live on!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Issey Miyake
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If you spent any time scrolling through Instagram this summer, chances are you probably felt compelled to buy a basket bag. HEIMAT ATLANTICA offers among other accessories a collection of basket bags that stand out among the rest.

Launched by designer Montserrat Alvarez in 2016, accessories label Heimat Atlantica is a study in the preservation of traditional craftsmanship. Each style is inspired by the colours and culture of northern Spain and Portugal, and is then hand-woven on looms by artisans from the regions under the supervision of a master craftswoman. The craft was originally utilized for making reed baskets that helped local fishermen and farmers transport their goods.

Driven by passion, Montserrat Álvarez wanted to create a 100% made in Europe brand which works to preserve and transform specific know-hows of craft women living in the Atlantic coast of north Spain and Portugal.

HEIMAT ATLANTICA x Comme des Garçons

From the rainbow-like colourways to the luxury leather and delicate ceramic charms, the label’s elegant bags – including basket styles and pouches – have an inherently exotic flair. Heimat Atlantica has gained international presence with well known stockists and launched an exclusive bag in collaboration with the Japanese label Comme des Garçons.

Heimat Atlantica, from Galician artisanal brand to luxury object of desire worldwide.

To shop HEIMAT ALTLANTICA online, click here please.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: ©  Heimat Atlantica
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«I wanted a small part of the company’s profits to go to beautify all of humanity and I wanted people to work a fair amount of hours and be online the right amount of time, so that Technology and Humanism could be harmonised and a healthy balance between mind, soul and body could be restored, because the soul and body also need nourishment every day.» – Brunello Cucinelli

Another highlight of my trip to Umbria with Brunello Cucinelli and my NET-À-PORTER and MR PORTER family was visiting the manufacture. The palatial headquarters are modern, clean and providing the employees with a wonderful work environment. Initially established at the castle in Solomeo, the company was relocated to the valley below to completely newly constructed buildings.

The beautiful grounds of the company.

The ancient medieval buildings in the center of Solomeo now host the classrooms of the School of Contemporary Arts and Crafts –  a tuition-free arts school to teach traditional skills like gardening and, of course, tailoring, set up in 2013.

Happily reminded of my own fashion design studies.

Brunello’s wife Federica was born in Solomeo and ran a small clothing shop there in the village. During their early engagement in 1978, Brunello came across the idea to venture into a knitwear business with colorful cashmere sweaters. His first success, he told me, started in the German-speaking market, that showed a huge interest and appreciation for this unprecedented proposition and this allowed his company to quickly emerge. Cucinelli is no ordinary Italian fashion magnate. Today it is a cashmere empire selling luxury goods in the top segment with 7,000 employees and a turnover of €200m, but Cucinelli is also known for his «humanistic» approach to capitalism, based on respect for people and nature. In  the manufacture you can experience this approach fully.

When you enter the main building, you pass by the advertising campaign photo for F/W 2014 in which you see a long table in the Umbrian countryside with all the employees lined up for dinner. It was an actual photo taken during a company’s event. The quote for the picture: «All things come from the Earth.» – Xenophanes. Brunello Cucinelli is one big family!

Every day at midday, the entire staff is invited to the cafeteria for a family-style lunch complete with several courses, wine, and beautiful views of the Umbrian hills. Creating a nourishing work environment for body and soul is something that is very dear to Brunello Cucinelli. Around 5.30pm the power goes off and workers are encouraged not to work long hours and write after-hours e-mails. For Brunello Cucinelli being away from work is an important part of being effective at work.

The fashion designer, a lover of history, philosophy and country life, has also opened the doors to his office for us. A very intimate and welcoming gesture that impressed me. I entered a neat and tidy space, yet full of life. The books in the shelves are not only for decoration, Brunello indulges in them, always on the hunt for a great quote of inspiration. The room is also filled with articles about him and his company. Photos of his beautiful family add the personal touch. The view is spectacular, overlooking the beautiful tranquil Umbrian scenery.

Walking through the manufacture, I experienced the different steps of creating a stunning cashmere piece along with the impressive quality control. Once you see all the craftsmanship that goes into one item, you will appreciate it even more.

Later we went to «The Parco della Bellezza» on the outskirts of the village, at the grandly titled monument «Tribute To Human Dignity», a classically styled exedra with five arches, built from travertine. The creation stems from Brunello Cucinelli’s desire to leave a legacy behind that will stand the test of time, a symbol of his commitment to mankind and to create a park that could give new life to the breathtaking landscape of the valley below Solomeo. It also boasts a multitude of orchards, as well as wheat and sunflower plantations; it comprises a plant nursery, a naturalistic area, an olive grove with an olive oil mill, and a vineyard with a wine cellar that hosts an impressive collection of Italian wines.

Brunello Cucinelli concluded his speech to the World’s Great Leaders on the occasion of the G20 last year with this phrase: «From the time of Plato, through all the medieval scholastic philosophy, and then in the Enlightenment, up to idealism, positivism, existentialism and finally to the present day, the usefulness of contact with something beautiful, be it a painting, a book, or a landscape, is the seed from which the tree of wisdom grows, that wisdom that the human being cannot do without for their best life.»

At the Brunello Cucinelli company, treating people well is at the core of everything, and fostering a beautiful culture is as important as producing the most beautiful clothes. It seems that Italians really do it better or as Giuseppe Verdi said: «You may have the universe, if I may have Italy.»

TO SHOP BRUNELLO CUCINELLI AT NET-À-PORTER. CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
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Life will move on, but memories are forever. One event that I will always remember is the lovely dinner I had with Italian-born knitwear specialist Brunello Cucinelli (68) and his family at his home in Solomeo this weekend, co-hosted by MR PORTER Managing Director Fiona Firth. Launched in 1978, his brand is renowned for its ethical and philosophical approach to business, as much as its sumptuous fabrics and timeless color palette. With a focus on dyed and embellished cashmere and chic separates, his seasonless pieces are true wardrobe investments.

Being described as «the king of cashmere», he is based in the tranquil surroundings of Solomeo – a 14th century Umbrian village near Assisi. A place that lies deep in Brunello’s heart as it represents the core of his family, business and spiritual life. It is actually his wife’s home village. More recently the company business, which was initially established at the castle in Solomeo, was relocated to the valley below; the ancient medieval buildings now host the classrooms of the School of Contemporary Arts and Crafts, set up in 2013.

The Hamlet is now even more closely linked to the Forum of the Arts, and one might even say that the whole of Solomeo is an area devoted to culture, to art, to traditions, to history, to a happy life. Thanks to Cucinelli’s dedication, this beautiful little village has been completely restored. He has also built a theatre considered to be a secular temple of art, a library, the new Universal Library of Solomeo, reminiscent of his own where people can read books in a beautiful eighteenth-century villa, then a monument to the Dignity of Man and an immense park called «Project for Beauty». Before dinner, Brunello Cucinelli showed us around and explained us passionately the projects.

Brunello Cucinelli is a very captivating man. He speaks French fluently, for English he has a translator. We had our dinner conversation in French and it was very impressive to learn more about him, his strong family ties, the way he likes to give back and how he preserves cultural goods. He donates 20% of his profits through the Brunello Cucinelli Foundation. He believes in a very modern concept: Being good to people and to the environment will always pay off in the long run.

Brunello loves philosophy, everywhere in Solomeo you can find famous quotes by famous philosophers that are important to him. He also uses them in speeches. Cucinelli is the closest thing the luxury world has to a philosopher – he dropped out of college to pursue his own agenda of philosophical reading. «I live and work as an Italian, but I think like a Greek.»

«Act in such a way that you treat humanity, whether in your own person or in the person of any other, never merely as a means to an end, but always at the same time as an end» (I. Kant)

Growing up in rather poor conditions, he saw how his father was  subject to humiliation. Therefore the way you treat others has become an essential part of his life. Giving back to the community is extremely important to him. As his clothing empire has expanded, Cucinelli has spent untold sums revitalizing Solomeo. Not only has he refurbished its infrastructure, he’s also opened a tuition-free arts school to teach traditional skills like gardening and, of course, tailoring and invisible mending.

He told us about the speech he gave in Rome past October to the World’s Great Leaders on the occasion of the G20.

«Humanistic capitalism has been the guideline for my conduct as an entrepreneur from the very beginning, and I have imagined and come up with this definition for my enterprise. What I mean by humanistic capitalism is precisely this idea, this concept of a fair and sustainable profit, a profit harmonised with giving back: striking a balance between profit and giving back; donating to the world as guardians of creation, leaving to those coming after us not the very same world we found, but a more amiable one. I envisage humanistic capitalism as a great harmony within which profit, giving back, guardianship, human dignity and the ethics of truth coexist and enrich each other.» – Brunello Cucinelli

Brunello is a big family man – the Cucinelli clan lives in neighbouring homes in Solomeo. The founder’s two daughters, Camilla and Carolina, work in the family business and Cucinelli’s son-in-law, Riccardo Stefanelli, was recently appointed joint CEO in 2020 after 14 years in the company. Carolina is co-president and co-creative director of the company. Her husband Alessio Piastrelli works on the menswear team. Camilla sits on the board and is part of the womenswear design team.

Cucinelli’s father lived with him until he died last year at age 100. His wife Federica and himself have been together since their teenage years. The couple has now three grandchildren. The eldest, Victoria, seems to have inherited a lot from her grandpa. The two get a long so well. It was a true pleasure speaking to the 12-year old young lady. When we asked her, where she would love to live when she is older, she immediately replied: «Nowhere else than Solomeo.»

In 2012, Cucinelli took the $810 million (2021 revenues) company public, listing its shares on the Italian stock exchange. In 2014, Brunello Cucinelli has transferred his entire stake in the firm to a trust – a relative uncommon structure in Italy – to benefit his daughters and ensure the continuation of his philantrophic work.

When I asked him why he has never done a fashion show, he told me: «My clothes have to be felt, touched and seen in real life. In our showroom we offer this experience. Therefore I was never interested in doing a runway presentation.»

As it started raining upon arrival, the tables were moved from the Hamlet to a covered area overlooking the valley and the theatre. The food was traditional Italian, served family style. The appetizers included one of my favorite local recipes, panzanella, an Umbrian dish of bread and tomatoes, that gives you immediately the flavor of a warm Italian summer night. As a main course, we were treated to different sorts of freshly baked crispy pizzas. I loved the one with no cheese and only fresh tomatoes.

Being part of the Brunello Cucinelli clan for one weekend made me think that the Maison is different, it’s absolutely worth the price, it’s not just the cashmere and outstanding craftsmanship, I will tell you more about in one of my next posts, but the philosophy of giving back we are buying into.

TO SHOP BRUNELLO CUCINELLI AT NET-À-PORTER. CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.