Sandra‘s Closet

Last Thursday, the official H&M Fall 2012 press launch took place worldwide. Here’s your preview of the women’s lookbook and I also added some photos that I took in the showroom!

Isn’t this collection absolutely divine? The styling of the looks is amazing! For Fall 2012, H&M is all about “minimal meets maximal” featuring sculptural silhouettes and bold shapes packed with metallic accents, slit skirts, varsity-style jackets and leather corset belts, this collection is made for mixing and matching. The focus is on the textures and adding lots of costume jewelry to maximize minimal outfits. I am particularly loving the jeweled statement necklace and crystallized baseball cap – such a ’90s allure! What catches your eye first?

Key garments: Tailored coat, zippered-ankle slacks, oversized cable knit cardigan, bouclé sweatshirt, long-sleeved dress, collarless blouse jacket and printed leggings.

Key accessories: Costume jewelry, embellished shoulder pieces, beaded cap, concealed-platform hi-tops, elegant mules and beaded bags.

This collection is actually getting me looking forward to colder weather, I mean if it that is even possible as it is already cold outside…

LoL, Sandra

Photos Lookbook: Courtesy of H&M – © Kacper Kasprzyk
Photos Showroom: © Sandra Bauknecht

It was crystal clear last week in Paris that Karl Lagerfeld was once again breaking fresh ground with multi-facetted silhouettes and some unexpected pieces including a new suit: “The new three-piece, a jacket and little dress over trousers!” (This will be a huge trend for F/W 2012. Also Miuccia Prada had shown this look for Prada F/W 2012).
As well as a very long riding coat with large, rounded, sloping sleeves and the “pantacoat”, an all-in-one with legs that unzip to become a coat. Volumes are amplified by drawstrings or gathered belts, are highlighted by top-stitching – a reference to the same detail found on the Boy CHANEL handbag. There are jackets with sailor-smock collars and a fur-lined coat like the one worn by Stella Tennant at the start of the show (see photo above).

Needless to say, the decor at Chanel is always ouststanding. This time, the breathtaking ambiance was created by a brightly-lit mineral backdrop, beneath the glass roff of the Grand Palais. Giant blocks of uncut amethyst, clear rock crystal and opaque quartz erupted from a sparkling, white floor. “Nature’s the greatest designer,” said Lagerfeld to style.com, pointing at some of the more spectacular crystalline excrescences. “These shapes are millions of years old.”

The mineral rock setting extended into fabric metaphors with combinations of wool and more technical materials glinting with a subtle metallic shimmer. Subdued shades of hematite, azurite and obsidian are illuminated by a myriad of jewel-coloured splashes of sulphur, lapis-lazuli, emerald and amethyst. Stippled iridescent feathers, “softer to the touch than fur”, bring warmth to the outfits. Crystals and minerals reinterpreted in the style of Czech Cubism become prisms of gleaming vinyl.

I included some of the backstage photos for you to see the beautiful details of the clothes even better. Enjoy Chanel’s  new mineralogist silhouette!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Chanel

In Paris, I went to the Longchamp showroom to explore the house’s newest creations for F/W 2012. In keeping with the motto “More is More”, Sophie Delafontaine indulged in luxurious fabrics, lots of fur and extravagant colours. This is a collection where more is definitely more. Please see my favourites below.

If you are interested, check out Longchamp’s recent collaboration with Mary Katrantzou which is in stores now.

LoL, Sandra

Sophie Delafontaine, Artistic Director of the Longchamp House, with me.

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

With the fashion week craziness and all my travelling, I am a little behind posting as I have so much to show you. Thank God, it is all about F/W 2012, so that we have plenty of time to prepare us for this season.

During New York Fashion Week, I went also to the Tommy Hilfiger F/W 2012 Women’s Show. The location and the ambiance was the same as for the men’s show but instead of little tables with chairs, there were the typical fashion show rows to be able to host more people. Among the famous guests were Uma Thurman, Elisa Sednaoui, Petra Nemcova and the Courtin-Clarins sisters.

The Courtin-Clarins sisters looking for their seats.

From left to right: Sisters Jenna and Prisca and their cousins Virginie and Claire.

Model Petra Nemcova

Enjoing the show front row: Tommy Hilfiger’s wife Dee Ocleppo, Elisa Sednaoui and Uma Thurman.

TOWN AND COUNTRY

“The women’s collection is inspired by the preppy sporting life reconsidered with city sophistication. She is as much at ease at the hunt club as she is on Park Avenue. Championing classic looks with a modern spirit, versatility is key with A-line, mod shapes in rich colours and fabrics.”

Coats are the season’s must-have. Pea coats and trench coats are renewed in printed shearling, bonded leather and Melton wool with a nod to a 60s military influence (as seen earlier at the men’s show). Menswear patterns are reinterpreted in silk dresses with riding and cable knit prints and pleated backs. Heritage colours – Burgundy, Midnight Navy and Caramel, carry throughout, as do penny loafer inspired riding boots.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger, © Sandra Bauknecht

For Talbot Runhof‘s  F/W 2012 collection, the designer duo seeked inspiration from the 1998 movie Great Expectations starring Ethan Hawke, Gwyneth Paltrow and Anne Bancroft, the latter of whom, impressed the most with her masterful performance of Nora Dinsmoor.

“Deserted on her wedding day as a young woman. Her garden still decorated and waiting in vain, in anticipation of a celebration. Covered in a verdant mélange of foliage, a daily affirmation of her life, her sadness, her passion, swirling through the decaying rooms of her home to her hymn of hope: Bésame mucho. She (Anne Bancroft as Nora Dinsmoor) was the inspiration for our F/W 2012 collection!“

Talbot Runhof is the German red carpet label worn by A-listers all over the world. Famous celebrities such as Angelina Jolie or Halle Berry have been spotted in their elegant and feminine designs. Today, their creations are sold in the best stores worldwide, among them Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

The success story started in 1991 when Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof met in Munich. Discovering their mutual passion for fashion they decided to join forces and began designing collections together under the label All about Eve. In the year 2000 the brand was renamed Talbot Runhof. They both share interesting and unusual backgrounds:

Johnny with me backstage before the show

Johnny Talbot, born 1964 in Nashville Tennessee, USA, studied electrical engineering and worked as systems manager for the U.S. government before he decided to become a fashion designer.

Adrian giving an interview before the show

Adrian Runhof, born 1963 in Mainz, Germany, studied business administration after growing up in a family of fashion producers and retailers and worked every since in the fashion business.

Before the show, I went backstage, so please enjoy the photos.

The collection is all about green: From ivy to oak, from acorn to gingko, birch to maple. Colour nuances of chartreuse to olive, emerald to evergreen, turquoise to jade, moss to bronze.

Famous MAC makeup artist Romero Jennings at work creating the feminine, elegant makeup look in a gorgeous green colour palette.

Me front row at the show

Among my favourites are the stretch suede skin tight leggings and the evening gowns of net lace, hologram sequins combined with layers of chiffon. Leaf applications adorn necklines, tops and dresses. Tweed appears soft and luxurious.

Accessories include booties, booty sandals, platform pumps, or peep-toes of tweed and of printed satin. Matching baguette clutches of velvet, tweed, printed satin embroidered with metallic borders, leaf motives, patchwork belts of matt shiny nappa.

And now enjoy the show! Talbot Runhof have fulfilled the great expectations, haven’t they?!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

My last show for the F/W 2012 season was Miu Miu yesterday.

Imagine Austin Powers and the dandy style, add some late sixties and very early seventies and the outcome would be Miuccia Prada’s moodboard for her Miu Miu F/W 2012 collection. The pants worn cropped played a major role as already seen at Prada. It seemed like she had an obsession with them. Just in the end of the show, some short dresses with lots of embellishments appeared on the runway. I loved it, it was a fresh and different approach to the winter season and her colour combinations were absolutely gorgeous.

And do you know who else I spotted? Marc Jacobs who just had presented his F/W 2012 collection for Louis Vuitton earlier in the morning, was sitting front row and congratulated Miuccia later on her designs. Yes, she nailed it again as the matching-print pantsuit is a must for the next season! And Miu Miu will definitely be on my shopping list!

Enjoy the photos of the show and see which famous blue-haired singer was there below:

The blue-haired celebrity I was talking about was Katy Perry who came to the Miu Miu show in head-to-toe Prada.

When she saw her friend, American actress, Kate Mara, all dressed in Miu Miu, she seemed to compare their looks. I thought that it was pretty funny to watch.

Below you can see Anna dello Russo wearing the famous Miu Miu sunglasses.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Yesterday morning in Paris, I attended the Louis Vuitton F/W 2012 show which was the best I have ever seen (It even topped Chanel’s Paris – Bombay…).

When I arrived, I found myself inside a 1920’s inspired train station with a huge Louis Vuitton station clock hanging from the ceiling. And what looked like the runway in the middle, was actually something else…

The show started on time as usual and a gigantic gate opened, there was steam. All of a sudden, I saw rails…

…and an amazing old-fashioned train with a lot of steam rolled inside the hall. The crowd cheered and applauded. Believe me, it takes something to charm the fashionable audience.

Inside the wagon, the models were seated. You could already see the gigantic hats. The ambiance reminded me immediately of the Titanic era. The ladies looked like belonging to the upper class de-boarding the “Vuitton Express”.

THE BAGS

Each lady had a her own porter helping her to carry the oversized bags which were absolutely divine. Hat boxes, vanity cases, weekend bags and petites valises all make an appearance for everyday use. The traditional canvas Monogram finds itself trimmed in real crocodile or embroidered in sequins on a blanket wool, trimmed with box calf. The Speedy has an intense reworking this season, based on and featuring a round signature buckle.

Mink makes its way into Vuitton baggage, utilising vibrant colours to accompany its rich, sumptuous texture.

THE LOOKS

Marc Jacobs played with proportions and this collection seems to be for the tall ones among you. It is all about elongation. The clothing is layered in rich, sumptuous fabrics; long skirts over cigarette pants, long coats over all, each look topped by a tall hat. There is a certain, simple geometry to this elongation, an extended A-line to engulf the entire body.

The normal sized porters seemed tiny in comparison to the tall models. Marc Jacobs did it on purpose to reinforce the point of his towering female silhouette; the men are merely added accessories.

The materials are rich, from kangaroo leather that is patch-worked and bejewelled with plastics to heavy metal yarns replicating Afghan blanket fabrics and brocades and jacquards.

I loved Marc’s thinking about the company’s nineteenth-century origins and travel heritage. Can you believe that he started Louis Vuitton’s Prêt-à-porter collection fifteen years ago… time flies!

Marc after the show in the train

The “Vuitton Express” from inside

Me in front of the train

Bryan Boy with me, isn’t his Jil Sander hat too cute?!

Anna dello Russo

Famous guest: Sarah Jessica Parker

Another reason for my enthusiasm for this amazing, outstanding Louis Vuitton F/W 2012 show might be that it reminded me so much of a collection inspired by the Titanic era that I created during my fashion design studies.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

My Gucci adventure started on Wednesday with the F/W 2012 show in Milan. Just one word. Amazing! Frida Giannini created a dark glamour, opulent looks that were sensual and sophisticated at once, recalling the Victorian era mixed with a certain vampire allure. She even used masculine accents such as oversized shoulders and military-style coats and capes. Her very dark vision might be a welcome change after all the vibrant colour-blocking of the last seasons.

„This is modern-day romanticism. A dramatic sensuality, a dark glamour. With subtle tones of provocative intellect.“

– Frida Giannini

The materials were rich. Opulent brocade, devoré velvet and floral prints on jacquard fabrics plus beautiful 3-D embroideries on the long flowing evening gowns. Exotic animal prints on silk looked great on the runway. My favourite were the pieces that were made completely out of beautiful shimmering dark green feathers.

Colours are dark, black paired with green in different shades, plum tones and burgundy.

The accessories had a lot of equestrian references. The new Stirrup bag, roomy as well as classy, has a revisited metallic spur closure (mark it on your F/W 2012 wish list, a season’s must).

Footwear is either flat (those crocodile boots, OMG!) and masculine or slipper-like with a sharp high heel.

I am a big Gucci fan and this collection has just made me love it even a little bit more…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci

I am so busy here in NYC that I barely have time to post. During the last days, I saw many beautiful shows. So please stay tuned for many photos to follow.

Let me get you started with the Tommy Hilfiger Men F/W 2012 show that took place inside the Park Avenue Armory. An amazing set that was surely high-budget was waiting for the fashion crowd. In the little park complete with trees surrounded by a brick-style runway were little tables with chairs.

It wouldn’t be Tommy if there weren’t celebrities. (Remember the last season when I met Ed Westwick and James Marsden, for the previous post, please click here).

This time, it was sexy actor Bradley Cooper (I am not sure about his moustache) and New York Giants wide receiver Victor Cruz that were sitting front row. Please click here for a photo of Bradley and me together at the show, in case you haven’t seen it yet.

The main inspiration for the Tommy Hilfiger Men F/W 2012 collection „CADET ACADEMY“ was obviously the military. Its theme ran through nearly every piece, from four stripes at the wrist cuffs of coats to peacoats with chain embroidery. Reminiscent of West Point, the models walked the runway in lots of leather pieces, in rich tones of burgundy, midnight navy and forest green. Pants tucked into boots and suiting for every occassion gave an interesting twist to the collection. Below you can see some of my favourite looks:

„It is inspired by the lifestyle of a young cadet whose uniforms range from military prep to the sporting life, all infused with hints of rock influence. His academy look is sophisticated in its modernity, a touch rebellious but still buttoned up. The hybridization of his pursuits creates a youthful take on classic traditions, reinforcing that functionality and spirit coexist.“

– Tommy Hilfiger

I loved the collection and Tommy’s red socks… and you?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht