Sandra‘s Closet

Stella McCartney is consciously crafting fashion history by introducing the Frayme Mylo™ – the world’s first-ever luxury bag crafted from mycelium, a root-like structure of a fungus consisting of a mass of branching, thread-like hyphae. This pioneering vegan alternative to animal leather is grown in a lab using renewable resources by the House’s long-term partners, Bolt.

This is your chance to own a piece of fashion history, with a limited and numbered run of 100 available globally. Each is handcrafted by Italian artisans from Mylo™ – an innovative and incredibly realistic vegan alternative to animal leather. The Frayme Mylo™ is instantly recognisable as a Stella icon, with an exaggerated chain made from recyclable aluminium.

TO SHOP THE LIMITED EDITION FRAYME MYLO™ BAG, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Stella McCartney and © Sandra Bauknecht
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Another great talent has left us. French fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier (21 August 1943 – 31 March 2022) has died today. His imagery helped write the history of 1990s fashion.

Born near Paris in 1943 to a modest family, Demarchelier spent his childhood in Le Havre, Normandy, with his mother and four brothers. His profession was self-taught. For his seventeenth birthday, his stepfather bought him his first camera. Demarchelier learned how to develop film, retouch negatives and began photographing friends and weddings.

Natalia Vodianova in Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci.
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue, October 2008

In 1975, Demarchelier left Paris for New York City, United States to follow his girlfriend. He discovered fashion photography by working as a freelance photographer learning from, and working with photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Terry King, and Jacque Guilbert. Since the late 1970s he shot the covers for nearly every major fashion magazine including American, British and Paris Vogue, as well as Harper’s Bazaar. He also shot international advertising campaigns for Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, TAG Heuer, CHANEL, Donna Karan, Yves Saint Laurent, Tommy Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Moschino, Vera Wang, Elizabeth Arden, H&M, Sam Edelman, Zara, Max Azria, Express, Longchamp, Blumarine, Lacoste, Ann Taylor, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.

Lady Diana photographed by Patrick Demarchelier in 1990

However, he is perhaps best known for his intimate portraits of Princess Diana that helped establish her popularity and accessible public image.

In 2007, Christine Albanel, French Minister of Culture, honoured Demarchelier as an Officer in l’ordre des Arts et des Lettres (Order of Arts and Literature), the same year that he received the CFDA Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert. Demarchelier also appeared in the film «The September Issue» and can be glimpsed in «The Sex & the City movie».

With his son Victor, who works also as a photographer.

Despite a rich and deep legacy, in 2018 amidst the #MeToo reckoning, Demarchelier was accused by seven models who worked with him of sexual harassment. In response to the allegations, Condé Nast announced: «We have informed Patrick we will not be working with him for the foreseeable future. Demarchelier denied the allegations.» However, he had never been charged and denied the allegations.

Demarchelier is survived by his wife Mia, his three sons, and three grandchildren.

LoL, Sandra

30 years later, still one of my favorite Vogue covers of all times, famous supermodels on the magazine’s 100th anniversary cover. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue US, April 1992

Christy Turlington in Azzedine Alaïa.
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue US, May 1991

Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Harper’s Bazaar US, May 1998

Christy Turlington 
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Harper’s Bazaar US, July 1999

Photos: Via Vogue Harper’s Bazaar, Sothebys © Patrick Demarchelier

Salvatore Ferragamo is shaking things up with a very exciting appointment. Just a few months after announcing the arrival of Marco Gobbetti as CEO, the Italian label has named 25-year-old emerging British-Trinidadian designer Maximilian Davis its new creative director, replacing Paul Andrew, who exited the Florence-based label last March as part of a major shakeup.

«I am delighted to welcome Maximilian at the house of Ferragamo,» Gobbetti said in a press release. «The clarity of his vision together with the level of execution and his powerful aesthetic make him one of the most brilliant talents of his generation. His work is defined by elegance, refined sensuality, and constant commitment to quality.»

Maximilian’s S/S2021 collection featured cutout dresses, sleek tailoring and beautiful gowns.
TO SHOP MAXIMILAN, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

Maximilian Davis

Davis, one of London’s buzziest emerging talents, will join the brand on March 16, 2022. He graduated of the London College of Fashion, and has worked under designers including Wales Bonner, Mowalola, Asai, and Supriya Lele before launching his namesake label in 2020. He was shortlisted for the prestigious LVMH Prize this year, but pulled out of the competition earlier this month.

Salvatore Ferragamo (1898–1960)

Ferragamo has been underperforming lately. Once the Italian House was the world’s most innovative shoemaker, creating major footwear trends like the wedge and the platform.

Salvatore Ferragamo, rainbow wedge sandal (1938)

With the new head designer, the Maison hopes to vamp up its sales by re-energising Ferragamo with a product and marketing refresh. Good luck!
TO SHOP FERRAGAMO ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Salvatore Ferragamo, Net-à-Porter
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Fashion designer Nino Cerruti died on Saturday, Jan 15th, 2022 at age 91.

Cerruti, who was born on September 25th, 1930 in Biella, one of Italy’s main textile hubs, was a key figure in the international fashion industry, well-respected and known for his elegance, kindness and polite ways.

«For the family, collaborators, friends and management of Lanificio Cerruti and for Italian fashion today is a sad day because with the death of Mr. Nino the world looses a man of talent, an extraordinary designer, a visionary ahead of his time and a great mentor to whom many are indebted,» said Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti in a statement.

Cerruti came from a family of textile industrialists, and inherited the company at the age of 20 upon his father’s death. He discontinued his studies in philosophy and journalism to immediately rediscover himself as suited to the style and fashion business at the highest level. Following the family tradition, investing heavily over the years in the research and development of materials, he added attention to design to taste and sensibility and his highly personal insights. In short, to be exact since 1957, he has achieved worldwide attention with the presentation of the company’s first apparel line, Hitman, in Milan. In 1962, together with Osvaldo Testa, he founded the brand «Flying Cross», the first «Designer Line» which was added to the Hitman line. In 1967, he opened the first Cerruti 1881 boutique at Place de la Madeleine in Paris. In the mid-1960s, in Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti, he collaborated with new emerging names in Italian fashion, taking on as «rookies» designers of the calibre of Giorgio Armani (who worked with Cerruti until 1970).

«It is with great sadness that I learn of Nino Cerruti’s death,» said Armani to WWD. «Although over the years we had seen less of each other, I have always considered him one of the people who have had a real and positive influence on my life. From him I learned not only the taste for a sartorial softness, but also the importance of an all-around vision, as a designer and an entrepreneur. Mr. Nino was a keen observer, he had a real curiosity and the ability to dare. His gentle way of being authoritative and also authoritarian will be missed.»

In the 1970s, he created the first deconstructed jacket. He established licensing agreements in Japan and the US in order to increase the international visibility of the brand and to maintain competitive prices in most markets, proving more and more, as well as his artistic skills, his strong entrepreneurial vocation to the global market. In these years, the fashion line for women also came into being, which 20 years later would represent 20% of total company revenues. In 1975, Hitman began production and distribution of knitwear, shirts and the casual line: Cerruti 1881 Brothers.

Nino Cerruti with Hubert de Givenchy

At the end of the 1970s, he also launched the first men’s fragrance linked to the brand, named «Nino Cerruti», followed by other intuitions and innovations: in the 1980s the sportswear line, famous for clothing dedicated to tennis and skiing. In short also sponsoring world-class athletes such as the American tennis player Jimmy Connors and the Swedish skier Ingemar Stenmark.

In the 1980s, Cerruti began a collaboration with the world of movies. From «Bonnie and Clyde» and «Pretty Woman» to «Basic Instinct,» the brand Cerruti designed clothes for actors such as Michael Douglas, Jack Nicholson, Tom Hanks, Bruce Willis, Sharon Stone, Julia Roberts, Robert Redford, Harrison Ford, Al Pacino or Jean Paul Belmondo.

Nino Cerruti and Kathleen Turner

The popularity of the brand increased further in 1994 when it was appointed official designer of Formula 1 team Ferrari. In the early 1990s, two new fragrances were launched: «Cerruti 1881 Pour Homme» and «Cerruti 1881 Pour Femme», both produced and distributed by Elizabeth Arden. Also, flagship stores in China, Hong Kong, Thailand and Indonesia were opened. In 1995, the production of the women’s line «Cerruti Art» began, which can be found in the segment «Top Designer».

Cerruti even had cameo roles in the 1996 films «Catwalk» and «Cannes Man,» and in the 1998 movie «Holy Man.»

In 1998 at the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, the new men’s fragrance «Cerruti Image» was presented. In the same year, the Cerruti store on Madison Avenue in New York was opened. In 2000, Cerruti opened a flagship store in Hong Kong. In the same year, he launched the women’s version of the perfume «Cerruti Image». In 2000, Nino Cerruti was appointed Cavaliere del Lavoro by the President of the Republic of Italy. In 2001, «Cerruti Holding» sold the brand «Cerruti 1881» to focus on Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti.

Among the awards received as evidence of a career that has given so much to the style and fashion, not just in Italy but worldwide: the Bath Museum of Costume Dress of the Year Award, England, 1978; the Munich Fashion Week Award, 1981; the Cutty Sark Award in 1982, 1988 and Pitti Uomo Award, Italy, 1986.

We say goodbye to a great man who was an icon of Italian fashion.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti

Earlier this year, Balmain‘s creative director Olivier Rousteing revamped Mattel‘s Barbie for the Maison’s Paris Fashion Week presentation in house pastel tones, donning peaked pagoda-shoulder suits – posing in front of the same jetliners that were used as props for Rousteing’s aviation-inspired  F/W 2021 collection.

Two Balmain barbies, and one Balmain Ken, all three dolls embrace Olivier’s vision on inclusivity. «I’m happy to see that these new-generations Barbies truly reflect the diversity of our Balmain Army,» he said.

The original sets for Théâtre de la Mode were destroyed, but new ones were created to display the figurines, which can be seen at Maryhill Museum of Art.

This collaboration between Mattel and the French house is a tribute to Pierre Balmain, who in 1945, after WWII, contributed along other designers such as Balenciaga, Carven and Lulien Lelong, to the «Theatre of Fashion» to present their latest creations. It was a traveling spectacle made of dolls, started by the School Of Chambre Syndicale De La Couture Parisienne. Pierre Balmain dressed over 200 dolls with outfits specifically created for the occasion.

Now, the first must-have piece of this collaboration has hit the shelves. Ski season styling is given a cute update with the After Ski Tundra boots from Balmain x Barbie®. They’re designed with the label’s monogram in pink and are accented with bows.

To shop the After Ski Tundra boots, click here please.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Balmain
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Gucci’s red velvet suit. This is one of those iconic pieces. Designed by Tom Ford in 1996, the red velvet suit immediately became a hit. The Gucci F/W 96 show was one of his best collections ever, he said, «it all came together for the first time.» He referenced his own ’90s Gucci collection for his eponymous label for F/W 2019.

Tom Ford F/W 2019

In celebration of Tom Ford-era Gucci—and the designer’s indelible legacy in fashion, it’s no wonder why the brand’s current creative director, Alessandro Michele, chose to revisit one of the House’s greatest hits for the label’s centennial and released the interpretation of Ford’s iconic suit for his F/W 2021 collection.

Gucci Ad F/W 1996

«Gucci becomes for me a hacking lab, made of incursions and metamorphoses,» Michele said in a statement earlier this year when he first released the re-creation to celebrate the House’s 100th anniversary. «An alchemical factory of contaminations where everything connects to anything.»

Gwyneth Paltrow made the red velvet suit famous.

In 1996, Gwyneth Paltrow first wore the red velvet suit, designed by Tom Ford for Gucci’s F/W 96 collection, on the red carpet at the 1996 MTV Video Music Awards and made it famous. Last month, the actress arrived at Gucci Love Parade in Los Angeles, California in the iteration of the suit by Alessandro Michele.

Tom Ford for Gucci F/W 1996

The recent zeitgeist is all about re-editions, so many brands are looking into their archives for inspiration. As much as the fashion world loves all things new, newer, and newest, in those days we cannot resist a good throwback either.

You can shop the Gucci F/W 2021 look now and get a piece of fashion history: Single-breasted cotton-blend velvet suit jacket, and flared cotton-blend velvet suit trousers.

I would have worn this amazing suit to the premiere of the new House of Gucci movie, if I hadn’t been in quarantine. Now, it is up to you to guess if my suit is from 1996 or 2021. As I have always been telling you, don’t throw anything away. The time will come again.

LoL, Sandra

Alessandro Michele for Gucci F/W 2021

Photos: © Gucci / David Biedert Photography
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OMG! The latest breaking news in the world of fashion… according to BOF, designer Daniel Lee is set to leave Bottega Veneta. A surprise move the group described as a «joint decision», especially as according to Bain, sales rose 2.2 % to nearly €1.2 billion in 2019 under Lee who managed to keep the company growing slightly even during the pandemic in 2020.

Bottega Veneta has set a new standard for luxury since its birth in Vicenza in 1966. Inspired by Italian culture with a global outlook, the House is defined by a distinctly refined attitude. Bottega Veneta uses noble materials to create considered pieces that become part of their owner’s lives. The House embraces a core philosophy of style, innovation and luxury, applied to a full offer for women, men and home.

Daniel Lee was appointed Creative Director in 2018. Born in Bradford in the North of England, Daniel studied at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and graduated in 2011. Having worked for fashion Houses in London, New York and Paris throughout his career (for example in the studio of Phoebe Philo’s Celine and at Donna Karan), Lee bought a distinct understanding of modern luxury to Bottega Veneta.

He is the brainchild behind the new must-have color green. During his three-year tenure, he played with the texture and proportion of the house’s key intrecciato leather to create must-have bags, such as The Pouch or The Point, and shoes that fashionistas around the world drooled over. His designs have been copied not only by the high street labels but also from other luxury houses.

The must-have Lagoon bubble-insole leather sandals in green.

«My time at Bottega Veneta has been an incredible experience,» Lee said in a statement. «I am grateful to have worked with an exceptional and talented team and I am forever thankful to everyone who was part of creating our vision.»

One of Lee’s best designs for Bottega: The Pouch large gathered intrecciato leather clutch.

Kering chairman François-Henri Pinault thanked Lee for a «singular vision» that «made the House’s heritage relevant for today and put it back to the center of the fashion scene.»

Bottega Veneta Salon 01 S/S 2021

A new creative organisation for the brand will be announced soon, Kering said. Stay tuned!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Bottega Veneta and by Streetstyleshooters / Getty Images
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.

Feels Like Prada – I have been collecting Prada from the early beginning (thank you, Mama, for spoiling me at an early age). Miuccia Prada’s first creation was the now-classic Prada backpack called the Vela, which made its debut in 1984. In 1988, she showed her first ready-to-wear collection for F/W, that was focused on clean lines and timeless silhouettes. Since then, she has influenced how we think about fashion, without you knowing about it probably. Personally speaking, she is the real trendsetter in the industry, sometimes even a little ahead of time.

For me, it is fascinating to see how the young generations crave now for Prada. The recent launch of the re-edition nylon bags caused a true fashion frenzy. Needless to say, I feel blessed that I have kept everything in my closet. I love to mix and match from different seasons as you can see in this look, shot during Milan Fashion Week.

My look: Cropped organic denim jacket, denim bralette (both F/W 2021), synthetic reflective silver track pants (F/W 2017), frame comic-print leather bag (S/S 2018), light green pumps (S/S 2012), spiked bead collar necklace (S/S 2003), and wide blue head band (F/W 2020), all by Prada.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht / Nadia Krawiecka
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DIESEL honors Genoa, the birthplace of jeans, and celebrates Made in Italy by presenting a reproduction of the oldest jeans fabric ever documented in history.

Dating back to 1760-80, local townspeople and laborers in Genoa were first seen (and depicted) wearing jeans as part of their daily wardrobes. Colors ranged from standard indigo to brown to white. A nativity figurine by Pasquale Navone (1746-1791), shows a man with denim trousers (woven diagonally, 2 to 1, in a blue cotton weft and white linen warp) that appear remarkably similar to iterations from the modern era. This sculpture represents the oldest historical instances of jeans; it may be viewed at Museo Giannettino Loxoro, which is situated in Genoa.

DIESEL has replicated the original fabric and garment as they existed three hundred years ago. It was done by using handmade Italian textiles and workmanship. The re-creation was exhibited this week at Genova Jeans fair in Genoa, where DIESEL was invited to celebrate the heritage of Made in Italy jeans. As to the accuracy of the denim’s reproduction and integrity, the fabric and garment are certified and verified by the art, textile and costume historian Marzia Cataldi Gallo.

The inaugural edition of the fair brings to life the history, evolution and innovation of jeans-making in a multifaceted showcase that, additionally, emphasizes sustainability; a series of immersive, informational experiences were on display. This includes a multi-part exhibition from DIESEL that centers on the heritage of its jeans, its journey towards a more sustainable denim product and practice, and how the company has utilized jeans to help transform the world of advertising.

Ultimately, this initiative serves as another spoke in DIESEL’s For Responsible Living strategy, which is a company-wide mandate to continuously shift its culture, business practices and footprint into a more sustainable arena. By participating in Genova Jeans, DIESEL further demonstrates its commitment to promoting and pushing for increased sustainability in the world of jeans.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Diesel

In the 1930s, Robert Dumas, son-in-law of Émile Hermès, whom he succeeded at the head of Hermès (1951-1978), created the women’s bag with straps. He designed a trapezoid shape with two triangular gussets, a cutout flap, a handle and two side straps, and with it he brought the house into the era of boldness and modernism.

In the late 1950s, legend has it that Grace Kelly, a Hollywood star turned princess of Monaco, was photographed holding the bag over her stomach to conceal the early signs of her pregnancy.
The bag shot to international fame and was renamed the Kelly.

The Kelly bag comes in different sizes and styles (like the Kelly Pochette or Kelly Ado for example), offering different aesthetics. There is no «right» size or shape. Although right now smaller bags are the rage, the size for you is the size you choose.

Recently, I have added a Kelly Danse to my Hermès collection. Originally released in 2007 by Jean-Paul Gaultier, who was at the helmet of Hermès at that time, Kelly Danse is a more casual and multi-functional version of the iconic Hermès Kelly. Without the top handle, and with a long strap, you can wear it seven different ways: around the waist, as a crossbody bag, a shoulder bag at two different lengths, as a wristlet, a clutch and even as a backpack!

Danse means dance in French. The idea behind its creation was to attract a younger audience: young ladies who like to dance while having their hands free. Kelly Danse was a revolutionary design for the brand. However, it was discontinued in 2013 because the shape was too «advanced» and fashion-forward. Comfortable cross-body bags were not so trendy at that time.

However, as it often happens, after the bag has been discontinued, the bag has quickly turned into a rare collector’s item and was re-introduced in 2019. Known today as the Kelly Danse II, the bag is around 22 cm in length and 17 cm in height. In terms of dimensions, the Kelly Danse II is very similar to its predecessor.

I chose my Kelly Danse II in Verso Blush/Rose Jaipur Evercolor leather (a leather that is very resilient to wear and tear) with silver hardware and love it, as it is without a doubt, the most versatile of all Hermès bags.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: AP, Courtesy of Hermès, © David Biedert Photography
DISCLOSURE: This post is not sponsored. I own and love this bag!