Sandra‘s Closet

London Fashion Week is always my favourite and the British designers are among the ones I like to wear the most. London is about individuality and the most extraordinary talents are based there. Prints and vibrant colours have been seen once more and the British capital seems to be in a blue mood.

Enjoy my little runway reviews!

LoL, Sandra

Mary Katrantzou makes all the heads turn and my heart leap for joy. I am such a big fan of her designs and her S/S 2013 collection has taken her creativity to a new level. Inspired by stamps and banknotes, Mary paired for example metallic brocades and Swarovski crystal mesh printed with banknote designs to achieve an eye-catching look. Her silhouettes were new and different from previous seasons. There is nobody else that flourishes like her. Thumbs up!

Stay tuned for an upcoming post in which I show you all the beautiful details of the collection that I photographed at Mary’s first own showroom in Paris.

Burberry Prorsum has been the blockbuster show of London Fashion Week since quite some time. The house’s social media forerun gives it a worldwide inimitable presence. For the next summer, Christopher Bailey has made “corsets and capes” his must-haves. Metallics in every shade and superb bags, especially in the translucent version will surely be among the house’s new season bestsellers.

Christopher Kane’s collection for S/S 2013 is certainly something for all fashion monsters, in the true sense of the word. At the first sight, you see simple pieces, all white on white, dresses and skirts in pastel hues – however, with a closer look it is clear that there is something more, some pieces are held together with big transparent plastic screws and there is Frankenstein on a T-shirt which will surely be copied a million times. I love it!

It was 15 years ago that Matthew Williamson launched his brand, and his glamourous cocktail and red carpet designs are still up-to-date. His amazing sense for colour could be seen in his S/S 2013 collection in perfection. Great news: Williamson is launching his own line of shoes for the next season, and he showed off his first platform styles on the runway.

Roksanda Ilincic is the queen of colour-blocking and she reinvents the trend each season new. For summer, Ilincic was inspired by the colour experimentation of the artist Josef Albers, something “rigid, masculine, and precise”.

Personally speaking, Peter Pilotto reminded me a little of Mary Katrantzou‘s previous seasons this time. And I don’t mean it badly, both designers belong to this famous new generation of prints. It was a very rich feast for the eyes, as Pilotto and De Vos created their prints three-dimensionally, while adding all sorts of ruffles and flounces. I like it a lot!

Shop Peter Pilotto S/S 2013 now on Moda Operandi!

After five years of showing in New York, Preen, a.k.a. Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, returned to the London catwalk this season. Very pretty were the textured designs combining heavy fabrics with sheers to give the illusion of stripes.

Meadham Kirchhoff always reminds me of Vivienne Westwood at her best. This season, Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff outdid themselves, staging a show so opulent and rococo that I just would like to have everything.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label seemed posh compared to Meadham Kirchhoff‘s baroque approach. Her models with full faces of green, blue, yellow, and pink makeupwalked on the catwalk in ’50s inspired clothing, from fine wool twinsets to pink silk jacquard skirtsuits and cocktail dresses.

Antonio Berardi came up with beautiful very feminine designs in all hues of blue, embellished with sparkling sequins. Tailoring has been his main focus since he emerged as a designer in the Nineties.

It’s all about the two piece for Jonathan Saunders who came up with this lovely red sequin look for example. Personally speaking, I have loved the first looks for which he used a kind of hologram-style shiny materials.

On Wednesday morning, I went to Louis Vuitton‘s S/S 2013 show that was as energizing and different as it was brief because the models walked out in pairs like twins. The setting was once more very special: Four escalators formed the fundamental structure of the presentation inspired by Les Deux Plateaux, a famous installation piece in the Palais Royal by the artist Daniel Buren with columns arranged in a grid.

The collection was very graphic and structured which had I expected after having seen Marc Jacobs’ signature line where minimalistic stripes ruled the runway (for more information, please click here). For Louis Vuitton, the designer went for ’60s silhouettes, gigantic checks and floral embroideries stitched in mini-squares. Even the house’s iconic Speedy bag got cubed, too.

It was the first ever Louis Vuitton collection not to make use of the Monogram. Instead, the Damier pattern provided the house’s signature.

A fundamental duality underpinned the collection, Marc Jacobs used always two colors, shiny and matt textures. He had the image of two very different French icons of the ’60s, Françoise Hardy and Jane Birkin, in mind when creating the collection: Hardy always very covered up, Birkin always revealing plenty of flesh, but both always in long, simple clothes. To reinforce these oppositions, the collection was presented on models in pairs.

For a finale, the models streamed down the four escalators very futuristically like an army of Louis Vuitton cult followers to the music from the opera “Einstein on The Beach” by Philip Glass. The show was different, especially compared to the excesses of last season and also optimistic as the sunshine yellow enlightened the room.

Marc Jacobs almost jumped down the escalator while the audience applauded.

Front row: Delfina Delettrez-Fendi, Natalia Vodianova, Antoine Arnault and Poppy Delevingne

Rachel Zoe and husband Roger Berman

Enjoy your weekend!

LoL, Sandra

Photos used for the collages: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton, all other photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

“It’s about elegance, not elegance. Couture, not couture. Tailoring, not tailoring,” Miuccia Prada told WWD.

Her S/S 2013 Miu Miu collection was all about contrasts, the Italian designer let herself be inspired by the silhouettes of the ’50s and ’60s, to which she offered her own iconic twist.

Flats worn to glamourous embellished outfits, rich luxurious fabrics downgraded through tie-dye and crushing and fur all over for summer walked down the runway to the sounds of “I’ve Got You Under My Skin” which almost seemed macabre in a good way. Think Mad Men meets Hitchcock in a contemporary way.

Splendid yet effortless, and with ease, she changes her style without never loosing her signature. The ideas and inspirations may be complicated, but this is her intelligent approach to fashion. And amazingly as it seems, she always makes it look easy.

Miuccia Prada had converted the Palais d’Iéna into a wooden maze designed by Rem Koolhaas’ OMA, with thick velvet curtains changing the ambiance  of the venue, that is usually bathed in natural light, into something mysterious right before the show .

Miucca Prada always packs the best front row. This season it was Emma Stone, Amanda Seyfried, Chloë Sevigny, Dianna Agron and Bérénice Bejo among others, all dressed head to toe in Miu Miu.

Amanda Seyfried with me after the show

Emma Stone giving an interview

Stay tuned for a detailed post about my outfit and of course, my runway reviews of Chanel, Louis Vuitton and so on.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Miu Miu and © Sandra Bauknecht

Romantic gowns, clear accessories, Rockstud revisited and a feminine allure, Valentino‘s Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli rediscover their Roman heritage for S/S 2013. The beautiful collection looks to neo-realist Rome for inspiration.

The slip dress is the new silhouette, sensual yet elegant. Summer cotton is treated as a couture fabric and a new print on silk chiffon dresses skim the body. The 1940’s inspired shape suggests seduction with a modern twist on couture details.

“The final interpretation is left open, however: each woman’s personality is the defining trait.”

Below are my personal must-haves of the collection. To die for!

The transparent Rockstud bag and the matching raincoat along with a pair of crystal Rockstud heels will definitely make their way into my closet. The red leather coat is also on my wish list for the next summer. Stunningly beautiful.

An absolute bestseller will be those embellished plexiglass wedge heels.

My seat at Valentino was amazing. In the middle second row behind Carine Roitfeld and across from Anna Wintour. I couldn’t have asked for anything better. Thank you so much!

Of course, I was wearing my gorgeous limited edition Red on Red Rockstud heels. There are only a few left, don’t forget to order yours by clicking here! And stay tuned for a detailed outfit post and many many more…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Valentino, Style and © Sandra Bauknecht

“90 looks, exceptionally once, for the 90th anniversary in a Roberto Burle Marx inspired garden. The Brazilian landscape architect, plantsman and painter invented a new language for modern landscape design. He abandoned the tradition of the straight line and cultivated a passion for curved and sensual lines. His work is, in the detail and as a whole, always one and the same. Inimitable!”

AKRIS is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year. A wonderful reason for Albert and Peter Kriemler to throw a party after the presentation of the S/S 2013 collection during Paris Fashion Week. 90 looks were shown on the runway of which many were noticeably transparent. Sexy without being vulgar – Albert Kriemler is one of the rare designers who can make this work in an elegant and sophisticated way. The collection was inspired by landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx and the prints as well as the setting of the show resembled a beautiful greenhouse. Tailoring is the soul of Akris and played a huge role as usual. The colour palette developed from black to basic shades such as white and beige to vibrant hues of green, yellow and fluo coral pink. The only look that was a little too extravagant for me was the shift dress with a gigantic organza leaf appliqué (see collage above). Personally speaking, I like Albert Kriemler’s modern jungle chic, a worthy jubilee collection!

Have a look at the collection below and see which celebrity attended the show:

TRANSPARENCY

PRINTS and LEATHER

COLOUR

“Style is all about the woman; it’s about her personality. You should notice the woman first, and what she is wearing follows.” – Albert Kriemler

Albert Kriemler, Princess Charlene of Monaco, Valerie Steele and Peter Kriemler

Princess Charlene of Monaco, who is a huge fan of  the Akris brand, attended the show and listened to the very emotional speech given by Peter Kriemler, Global President of Akris, in honour of the house’s 90th anniversary. Later, she joined the after party.

At the party: Nora Baldenweg, Kim Dang (NZZ) and Sara Allerstorfer (Bolero Magazine) with me.

« AKRIS » by Valerie Steele 11 x 14 in – 28 x 35 cm |192 pages | 150 illustrations | Hardcover
available in English and German $125 – €100 – £80

Limited Edition of 90 11 x 14 in – 28 x 35 cm |192 pages | 150 illustrations | Hardcover with Horsehair bag
Available in English and German $1922 – €1922
Fall 2012, Assouline

A great book that maps the rich heritage of Akris and its dynamic evolution in the recent years.

Akris is available in Zurich at Gassmann.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Akris and @ Sandra Bauknecht

Wolfgang Joop is back on the Paris Fashion Week calendar with his label Wunderkind. Yesterday, the German designer presented his beautiful S/S 2013 collection to the fashionable guests.

After the show, he was talking about how the world will change in the next years and that we should be prepared for it. He said that “at times of change, we look for new directions – earthly heaven and paradise. Grace and gravity is the theme of the collection: effortless but understated and circumspect.”

Wolfgang Joop with me

Personally speaking, I have liked the collection a lot, especially the second part of it. The prints and soft feminine colours were so pretty. Paradiso and Heaven are the centerpiece prints and iconic drawings by Wolfgang Joop, along with Butterfly and Tipsy dots in light coloures shades.

The soft fluid tailored coats, jackets and dresses in crêpe du chine, silk gabardine, silk georgette, cotton batiste and coarse-meshed linen in taupe and chalk, azure, peppermint, lotus, watermelon and yellow interplayed between multiple combinations and layering. Cartridge folds, facings and organza ribbons tuck the light falling fabrics.

Below are some of my favourite looks. Hope you like them, too!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

I have been following Pascal Millet from his very first collection in his own name. When I met him in 2010 to discover his creations for S/S 2011 in the showroom, I was overwhelmed by his love for detail, his couture-like cuts and the very Parisian chic.

Yesterday, he turned over a new leaf with his first show during Paris Fashion Week. This season, he drew his inspiration in the narrow alleys of Tangier, its colours and textures. The fabrics were beautiful from stretch leather to fishnet cotton, from sequined Chantilly lace to linen whipcord. The colour palette showed all hues that you can find in Morocco, sand, spice, white, deep black and Tadelakt green.

Rock the Casbah!

Me front row

Above you can see my two favourite looks, perfect for all fashionable city nomads. Modern, sleek and sexy.

His eveningwear was just so beautiful:

Pascal Millet

After the show, I went backstage to congratulate Pascal on his collection.

Spotted at the show: French actress Ana Girardot.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Jean Paul Gaultier‘s S/S 2013 show was the last one taking place Saturday night. In case you were tired, you would have been definitely awake and in an extremely good mood after. Why? Because the show was more entertaining than it was probably setting a fashion statement. The audience cheered and clapped to the French designer’s “homage to all the pop stars of the eighties who have influenced fashion and his fashion with their look”.

And who else could indulge in reminiscences better than the man who produced sculptured costumes for Madonna in her finest hour, starting with her famous cone bra for her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour. Personally speaking, I loved the show very much. It started with some beautiful Grace Jones-inspired looks followed by Hannelore Knuts as Annie Lennox in an iconic pinstriped Gaultier pantsuit to the sound of “Sweet Dreams”. Madonna, David Bowie, Boy George, Abba, Jane Birkin, Sade and others followed.

The last outfit was presented by ageless and famous disco legend Amanda Lear who brought this fun presentation to an uproarious close. “She’s got the look…alike”. With Gaultier’s mantra “be the star you wanna be”, your choice is manifold. Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust or Madonna’s Material Girl, the choices are manifold! I like!

LoL, Sandra

A fashionable drink before the show, Coke Light dressed by Jean Paul Gaultier.

Let the show get started and enjoy:

During the catwalk finale, one model fell down in these hard-to-walk-in heels.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Front row: Arielle Dombasle

After the show: Carine Roitfeld with me
All photos from the show: © Sandra Bauknecht

While we are getting our wardrobe ready for the upcoming winter, designers are already showing their S/S 2013 collections. Here is a summary of the most important collections and trends seen at New York Fashion Week. Stay tuned as a detailed report from London, Milan and Paris will follow soon.

In New York, stripes were having a moment this S/S 2013 season. From Marc Jacobs, to Tommy Hilfiger and Michael Kors, the American majors are getting in line to consider a fashionable life behind bars. Floral patterns and digital prints stay for the next summer, the best ones were seen at Altuzarra and Thakoon. Layering is all about getting this slouchy chic style. My favourite: Prabal Gurung. A must for summer is a pair of strappy, knee-high summer boots, such as spotted at Proenza Schouler.

Enjoy my little runway reviews!

LoL, Sandra

Joseph Altuzarra came up with a clever way to transform a jacket into a more airy piece by using vents for your arms like a cape, so that the jacket stays in place on your shoulders, even so it comes with sleeves. “It’s how editors wear their coats,” he said of the genesis of the idea to the US Vogue. The draped dresses, the interesting prints and the knee-high Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra sandals make it my favourite NYFW runway collection.

I love this Oscar de la Renta collection. Punk hair, combined with a ’50s silhouette and pop colors. So much fun and sophistication!

After four years in business, Victoria Beckham‘s designs have evolved. The iconic sheath dresses have got company, separates and suits are now part of her collection as well.

Stylists, editors and bloggers have been buzzing about Rodarte continuously. The eccentric designs of the Mulleavy sisters are truly outstanding. For the next season, the précis described Kate’s and Laura’s inspiration as “medieval and fantasy role-playing games”. Please reserve one of those fashionable armors for me!

Alexander Wang‘s runway show for S/S 2013 was ultra-strong with cut-out dresses and footwear to die for. The audience was kindly asked to remain from flash photography which was wishful thinking because when the lights were dimmed down to reveal white looks glowing in an ecclectic shade of yellow, people took their cameras to share this magic moment.

Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez have a young and visionary approach to fashion. This season, they have experimented with leather and print. Very interesting, you have to study the outfit to see all the innovative details.

Viva Espagña! For Ralph Lauren, the next season is all about Matador suits, serapes, ruffles and fringes. Especially, his gowns will be loved by celebrities all around the globe. Olé, fashionistas!

Very preppy, lots of stripes and the four basic colours, this was Michael Kors‘ recipe for his S/S 2013 collection. A subtle ’60s vibe and clean tailoring finished the sophisticated looks. Not new, but very wearable and very American.

Another true prep is, of course, Tommy Hilfiger, who celebrated stripes with a collegiate beat in the all-American shades of red, blue and white. A must for those who are spending their summers in the Hamptons.

The bold spirit that Marc Jacobs had been pushing for fall, has transformed into a more calm and artistic vibe. Lots of black and white stripes and wearable cuts, a wind of change is blowing at the American designer, at least for this season.

Thakoon Panichgul has been inspired obviously by an architectural Japanese feeling. Beautiful blooming floral designs and bird prints dominated this feminine collection. So pretty!

This season, Prabal Gurung channeled Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor. Layering was a key element, such as dresses worn over pants. The Kapoor inspiration was also evident in the extraordinary prints and delicate sheer fabrics.

It was Sophia Kokosalaki‘s last collection for Diesel Black Gold, and probably her best. I truly like this 90’s aesthetic, cool, contemporary with an interesting twist. Her successor, Andreas Melbostad, the former Phi designer, is now in charge to bring the label to the next level.

David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, the designer duo behind Rag & Bone, showed their refreshing collection at New York’s dramatical and beautiful old US Post Office building, a gorgeous backdrop. The inspiration: A desert traveler.

Reed Krakoff is the new king of intellectual minimalism with a very sexy twist. Strong and sportif, he used a colour palette of nudes, browns and blacks. Those see-through deconstructed dresses will be seen on many editors, for sure.

Edun, the beloved fashion label, run by Irish rocker Bono and his wife Ali Hewson, is based on the commitment to encourage trade in Africa. For S/S 2013 the collection is about the contrasting worlds of the Edun girl – intimate and extroverted, utilitarian and outerworldly.

Personally speaking, the most stunning evening and bridal wear for S/S 2013 is designed by Marchesa‘s Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig. Last week, they announced that they had designed Blake Lively’s wedding gown and her bridesmaids’ dresses. For summer, they take their fans on a stunning journey through India by way of maharani’s wardrobe with the bridal motif certainly at the forefront.

Zac Posen focused on gowns and a ’40s silhouette. The biggest surprise happened on the runway, supermodels Naomi Campbell, Angela Lindvall and Karolina Kurkova walked in his show.

“I have always loved the heritage and romance of England. My collection for Fall 2012 is about a modern glamour inspired by the timeless character and refined elegance of an authentic way of living.” –Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren‘s inspiration were obviously the Roaring Twenties. The first part of his show was devoted to boy-for-girl suits, followed by flapper-like dresses in gold and platinum Art Deco embroideries. So beautiful!

I especially love the Ralph Lauren Collection shoe collection for F/W 2012. Riding boots have been seen on many runways and the American designer’s take on them is just perfect. Click HERE to shop.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren