Sandra‘s Closet

Today, I would like to give you a preview of my Top 20 runway shows for S/S 2011 that I consider the key collections for the next season.

The overall spirit was light-hearted and positive sweeping away the last bit of sobriety. The designers’ colouring box was bright and vibrant with lots of neon shades, vibrant stripes and bold tones.  Many tributes to YSL as well as the 70s were spotted, along with biker and punk themes, floral prints and embroideries, Marrakesh and Shanghai references and pure clean white. Enjoy!

LOUIS VUITTON: Marc Jacobs’ S/S 2011 show for the French fashion house was a hell of a lot of fun, brazen in decadence. A colourful free-spirited collection for the camped-up China girl that loves high-voltage chic. Inspirations from 1930 Shanghai’s Art Deco style to a 70’s New York disco atmosphere were seen in the Cheongsam dresses and bold tiger stripes.
As for me one of my favourites this season.

PRADA: Miuccia Prada’s message was crystal-clear: „It’s time to be bold“. Her ecclectic humours take on her S/S 2011 collection was visionary. Fake baroque paintings (Who would have ever imagined that baroque can be minimal?!), fluorescent stripes, Josephine Baker banana designs and Mexican sombreros lead to that iconic Prada-twist that likes to surprise us.
I am loving it!!!!

JIL SANDER: An implicit change to the Jil Sander woman, that was this collection about. Minimalism inversed into a modern maximalism that led to couture. Raf Simons surprised the fashion crowd with this exceptional S/S 2011 show.
Simple white tees dominated long, full skirts joined with YSL’s rich associations of colours. The shapes were reminiscent of Cristobal Balenciaga’s proportions. The apostel for minimalism, Raf Simons, showed us another optimistic side of the Sander woman without betraying the spirit of the label. Wow! And by the way, the fuchsia lips are gorgeous…

CHRISTOPHER KANE: „Princess Margaret on acid“, this is how Tammy described her brother’s S/S 2011 collection. It was an interesting vision of the future, brilliant and different, like the designer and his place in English fashion. Fluoresent colours and print motifs inspired by yakuza tattoos lightened up the classic and kind of formal pieces.
Watch out for Christopher, this guy is provoking trends!

MARC JACOBS: There were many YSL references on the catwalks and Marc Jacobs was one of the first ones showing them in New York. By taking on the energy of the Studio 54 years and the ’70s, the brilliant American designer came up with one of his best collections, fresh, charming with a modern new spin, an ode to Missoni’s zigzag knits.
I cannot wait to get my hands on the peasant blouses and full skirts. My summer must-haves.

GUCCI: Yves Saint Laurent’s Marrakech years were in the air and a breeze of the ’70s omnipresent at Frida Giannini’s collection  for Gucci. Alternating between electric glamour, safari chic and ethnic touches, the Italian powerhouse continued to celebrate the female silhouette and its seductiveness. You cannot go wrong with this!

EMILIO PUCCI: A beautiful Greek Mediterranean vibe highlighted the collection that was seventies-inflected and mostly long. Peter Dundas knows his craft and the jetset girls will love his luxe hippie dresses worn with laced boots. Nonchalant, elegant, seductive details of which some were a little reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent will make Pucci a bestseller this summer.

YVES SAINT LAURENT: The seventies are everywhere this summer and so is YSL. Thanks to the retrospective that was held this year in Paris, many designers were influenced by the epic Saint Laurent. But none could stake a more legitimate claim to the Master’s inspirations than Stefano Pilati’s work.
He revisited the codes of the fashion house one by one, „le smoking“, the famous palette of orange and pink, French blue, black and beige, abundant bows and the sophisticated tailleurs. I am so on for a trip down memory lane, and you?

CHANEL: This time, Karl Lagerfeld took his inspiration from the early sixties movie Last Year at Marienbad and created a breathtakingly surreal setting. More than 80 models paraded through the ornamental garden with fountains, water features and gravel paths. The collection was so rich, full of couture details with dégradé chiffon florals, tweed patchwork, feathered edges and more. Just beautiful!

MARY KATRANTZOU: It was her first stand-alone show with which she won the Swiss Textiles Award 2010 in November. Mary Katrantzou is one of the hottest fashion newscomer with her groundbreaking creations. The designer of Greek origin worked in three dimensions and was inspired by the decors and backgrounds of the most beautiful of Guy Bourdin’s and Helmut Newton’s photos.
There was an almost hallucinatory depth to her digital printed clothes. The real revolution was how Mary modeled the shape to go with the graphics of interior designs. Are you up for wearing “room” this summer?

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Sarah Burton who had worked beside McQueen for 15 years, took over the cepter after the designer’s death last February. The S/S 2011 show, her first solo one, grabbed hold of his legacy and defined the same fantasia McQueen was so famous for. This time a hymn to nature, superb in its construction.
One of the biggest differences was that Burton softened the staging, a concept that was always so  vital to a McQueen show. It was a pleasure to see that there is a more feminine vision for the house but with the same theatrical love for detail.

HERMES: Time to say good-bye for Jean-Paul Gaultier and he couldn’t have done it better. His last collection for the traditional French house boasted of master tailoring, sensuous glamour and leather at its finest. “Zorro in Andalusia” celebrates Hermès’ equestrian elegance heritage could have been the headline. Good luck to Lacoste defector Christophe Lemaire! Taking these luxurious reins seems to be quite difficult…

CELINE: The collection was once more strong in its remarkable simplicity even that Phoebe Philo laid her hands on artisanal effects like hand-woven silks, fringes and vibrant colours. Her motto „less is forever chic“ has determined the codes of her hugely influential designs.

CHLOE: Minimalism at its best. Classic, timeless pieces that women can make their own and customise at will. The tutu-like skirts, reminiscent of the world of ballet, were among my favourites. Congrats, Hannah MacGibbon, for this lovely collection!

ERDEM: Erdem Moralioglu, the upcoming designer of Turkish origin, took his audience to Russia for his S/S 2011 presentation in a London park. He had been involved this summer with Victoria & Albert Museum’s Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, 1909-1920 exhibition.
The experience had been so inspiring that it shaped the substance of his collection where delicate dresses that clearly reflected the structure and flou of ballet costumes dominated the look. Once again floral motifs sprinkled the collection and were complemented by Nicholas Kirkwood’s gorgeous shoes tied up the calf like ballet slippers. I am sure that we will see much more of Erdem in the future.

STELLA MCCARTNEY: Even that I have to admit that I prefered Stella’s cruise 2011 collection, I am always in love with her practical, easy chic. The mother of four knows what she is talking about. Her key pieces are ideal companions to feel good in, even her long skirts split up the thighs swing comfortably with class. First bananas at Prada, now grapefruits and lemons at Stella that put us in a good mood. Her suits in pastel colours were strong on the runway and denim made a boxy shape debut. Thumbs up!

HAIDER ACKERMANN: One thing is for sure, the days that Haider Ackermann was only a fashion insider’s favourite secret are definitely over. His S/S 2011 collection was outstanding in its beauty. Origami folds, kimono jackets and obi belts were among the Asian references. Dramatic effects and strong colours for a glamorous red carpet moment.

DIOR: Betty Page, the model from the 50s that invented the pin-up look, goes on vacation to Hawaii – this South Pacific-style fantasy dominated John Galliano’s collection for Dior. The colours and floral prints on exquisite chiffons, the ankles tied with satin, this island extravaganza put you immediately in the holiday mood. Very cute.

BALENCIAGA: This was probably the most futuristic, unexpected and innovating collection of all. Nicolas Ghesquière defied the fashion codes and came up with new ones. His teddy boy-meets-punk masculinity was the reaction to a certain kind of sexiness. For him it was all about individuality. The talented fashion troublemaker used plasticized textures and couture techniques that were modernized with laser machine precision cuts.
It might take a while to adapt to the look but once you get it, you will be all over it!

BALMAIN: Honestly, the time of Balmain might come to an end as there are always the same sharp-tailored rock allure pieces on the runway but I still love them so much.
This time, Christophe Decarnin shortened the shorts and minis as much as he could and looked for punk rebellion for inspiration. Studded and safety pinned biker jackets, bleached jeans and holey T-shirts were among his favourites. Let’s hope that the Balmainia is still strong enough to convince the fashionistas to pay so much for this DIY-look…

Stay tuned as I will go much more into detail during the next weeks about the trends and must-haves for S/S 2011.
If you are interested which collections were my Top 20 for F/W 2010, please click here.

To a very promising and cheerful looking summer!

LoL, Sandra

Just when you finished off your wardrobe for this winter and have started thinking about next summer, I am challenging you once more with something very beautiful for next year’s fall.
Who said following fashion was an easy task?!

This Tuesday was a very snowy day in Paris but the guests who enjoyed the atmosphere in the Chanel Haute Couture salons were transported to another era, time and place. Karl Lagerfeld was inspired for his pre-fall 2011 collection by Byzantium, one of Coco Chanel’s major inspirations when she was the first to launch a line of costume jewelry in the 1920s.

The Paris–Byzance Métiers d’art show broadcasted Chanel’s specialist craftsmen that the French house has gathered under its umbrella: Desrues the costume jeweler, Lemarié the feather specialist, Lesage the embroiderer, Massaro the shoe-maker, Michel the milliner, Goossens the goldsmith and Guillet the floral accessory specialist.

In a decor reminding of an Ottomanesque chill-out room with 400 metres of squined fabric covering the walls, Lagerfeld revisited the bold colors and antique golds. Byzance and its splendor embellished every look from belts adorned with square glass beads to gold running through burn-out tweed and embroidered silks.

The make-up was kept in the same color family with one star product: The cream palette is combining five different golds and is said to be limited to only 1500 pieces.

This collection is for the modern Theodora empresses who might be Chanel’s clientele of today. Celebrating Chanel’s strong heritage is surely a smart move and one key to remaining a powerhouse in the decades to come, especially with the opening of a second Chanel boutique in Istanbul.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Chanel

Thom Browne is the darling of the fashion community. The shrunken suit silhouette – narrow lapels and short-cropped trousers, meticulously tailored – is his signature look.
Since he founded his own line in 2001, the US designer has transformed the direction of menswear, a world in which change happens at a glacial pace. Especially American men tend to wear clothes that are too big. Thom, an admirer of European tailoring, has created a new exaggerated take on the staples of a man’s wardrobe.

He got his start in fashion by designing for Club Monaco in the Nineties. In 2006, Browne was tapped to design Brooks Brothers’ more fashion-focused Black Fleece line, and in 2008 he was named creative director for Moncler Gamme Bleu.

For his menswear S/S 2011 collection, the designer made his Paris Fashion week runway debut with his probably most commercial show due to date. From his famous classic gray flannel to a shimmering sequined plaid, all interpreted with bermuda shorts and kneesocks underneath, he proofed his talent for proportional play and focused on his craft, his love for quality.

And good news is, for S/S 2011, Thom Browne is making a foray into womenswear with an amazing collection. Women look great in tailoring and the clothes boast the juxtaposition of traditional fabrications remixed with a his special kind of humour and exaggerations.

Thom Browne’s statement regarding his new womenswear collection: „I’m looking at it the same as my mens, like looking at really well-made clothes for girls that are tailoring-inspired but interesting and provocative, not just another collection of clothing for girls.“

One thing is clear, Thom Browne is poised to be as big as his suits are small!

Thom Browne Men is available in Switzerland at Trois Pommes, for further store enquiries, please contact .

LoL, Sandra

On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs rounded off the S/S 2011 collections in more ways than one. For me, it was one of best shows. The catwalk was beautifully decorated with tiger statues. Amazingly embellished dresses in gorgeous bright colour combinations made out of flowing materials paraded the runway. Tropical flowers along with Japanese details and tiger stripes gave this collection an outstanding feel. The cuts were absolutely sexy with slit legs showing a lot of skin.This summer will be an expensive one if you like Vuitton.

Thumbs up, Marc, I am loving it!

Enjoy my photos before, during and after the show! I also got some amazing shots of amazing people. Hope that you will like it!

LoL, Sandra

On Sunday afternoon on my flight to Paris, I had quite a fancy seat neighbour: Courtney Love who drove the complete staff crazy and delayed the take off.
I was eager to arrive in time as I could not make it to the Akris show in the morning and wanted to join Albert Kriemler for his cocktail reception in the evening at the Café de L’Epoque.

 

 

 

Akris is Switzerland’s fashion flagship brand, known for its craftsmanship, high-quality materials and understated luxury. The Swiss brand has written already over 80 years of history. Founded by the Kriemler’s grandmother to produce aprons in the 20s, followed by his father in the 40s who built Akris into a couture house and finally in the hands of Albert Kriemler and his brother since the 80s.

I have to admit that the Akris style used to be a touch conservative for me personally. But this has changed latest with the F/W 2010 collection which was absolutely beautiful. Gorgeous colours, well tailored pieces with a sensual 70s vibe, that were flattering, modern and feminine in one. A wind of change has been blowing with Daphne Guinness as the face of the last two advertising campaigns.
In the beginning of the year, Akris launched its debut bag collection, a must-have for the more discerning of women who appreciates quality, is not so much into an It-bag and tired of the Hermès camp.

Kriemler’s S/S 2011 collection is perhaps his best so far. The colours, the sharpness of cuts along with some bold blooms have laid the foundation for a much younger fan club that will love the little short jumpsuit and cool jackets. Enjoy!

Available for example in the US at Saks, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and in Zurich at Gassmann. For more information, please visit the Akris homepage.

LoL, Sandra

I am in Paris for the Fashion Week at the moment.

This morning, I went to see Stella McCartney’s S/S 2011 show which I have absolutely loved.

The first looks were iconic, confidently masculine tailored in fresh pastels. Further on, Stella tried a new take on denim and gave it a modern feel by playing with proportion and volume. My absolute favourites were the printed long silk dresses with box pleats and slit legs. Understated seduction in perfection.

Another must-have is definitely the sleeveless trench coat. If you like it bold, you will adore the symmetric botanical citrus prints. Everyone can find something in this collection, very versatile with signature looks and a new foray into sexiness.

Enjoy all my impressions, the celebrities, famous stylists, and for sure all the beautiful new looks for next summer. As you see, I had a blast.

LoL, Sandra

 

During the next week, we will do some time-travelling through different decades and their impacts on the F/W 2010 collections. One of the most important ones to influence your fall wardrobe, is the era of the late fifties. It is a celebration of women with the return of the curvy silhouette. Forerunner of the mid-century modern look is Miuccia Prada that surprised once more with her first time focus on the breasts with ruffled  pointy-bra tops. But there is nothing vulgar about her designs. When nostalgia catches up, Marc Jacobs cannot be far away. In the same vein as Prada this season, his collection for Louis Vuitton accented the womanly figure via corsets, belted wasp waists, petticoated skirts, fitted tops and deep cuts.

 

The looks could have come straight out of the most popular American TV show of the moment, Mad Men. The Emmy and Golden Globe winning series is set in the late fifties/ beginning of the sixties in the world of New York advertising. Its visual style is highly acclaimed and has inspired many designers for fall.

 

 

 

 

The mood is very fresh feminine with an uptight but sexy secretary note. The full skirt that had reigned until the early 1960s as the emblem of the 1950s woman celebrates its comeback with a charming Frenchified accent.

The hair is scraped back into high, bouncy sort of Brigitte Bardot ponytails or preferably worn in high chignons, held by tight headbands. The make-up is very Dita Von Teese, sort of clean and all about eyeliner. If you like, you can add a red pout. This look will stay for Resort 2011 as seen beautifully at Dior.

To accessorize your Stepford Wives look, here is what you need:

First a pair of spiked little kitten heels, Those very pointed shoes are comfy and because of their short height, you can still look up to the stronger sex.

Secondly, a top handle bag that shows discreet elegance.

And last but not least, a pair of cat-eye sunglasses. You can choose from sharply exaggerated to sweetly retro, just unleash your feline side.

Can you write in shorthand “chic”? I am convinced that now you can…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

Chanel`s Pre-fall 2010 is now arriving in stores. The theme: Paris-Shanghai. The Chinese megacity had been the perfect backdrop to present this fantasy collection last December.

The beautiful hommage was inspired by Shanghai`s louche past as the Paris of the East, when during the height of its glory in the 20`s and 30`s, the opium dens and nightclubs were all glamourous. A trip that Coco Chanel only made in her dreams.

My favourites are the black leather leggings with carved in camellia intarsias. I just do not want to find out how much they are…. I am very positive that it is a fortune.

To celebrate the Shanghai World Expo 2010, Chanel has also created a series of limited-edition accessories that are only available at stores in mainland China. Thank God the new boutique opened last year. The classic quilted flap bag with inside signature from Karl Lagerfeld “Shanghai Karl Lagerfeld” is divine. I really envy my Shanghai readers for being able to get your hands on this treasure. Send one over, please!

But there are more gorgeous accessories that will be available in other countries. What do you think of this adorable Take Away bag above to the left? I think it is a pretty hilarious and humorous take on fashion. I also adore the Chinese doll clutch and earrings.

LoL, Sandra

At the moment, I am in paradise, at a very quiet and calm place:
The Liwa Desert in the Empty Quarter, the largest uninterrupted sand desert in the world, 150 km away from Abu Dhabi. When I drove to the new Quasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, I was wondering the whole time if I probably took the wrong direction. There were no houses, people or plants. The only thing to see was sand – almost having a hypnotising effect on me. But the moment I arrived at the hotel, I couldn`t believe my eyes. In front of me lay a temple blending indigneous traditions with outstanding luxury. The tranquility of the desert had embraced me.

The photos show the views from my villa.