Yesterday, fashion’s second most anticipated show took place, Hedi Slimane’s debut for Céline. Ups, first mistake. He took the «accent aigu» (acute accent) away and Céline is now Celine. The looks, personally speaking, were very much Saint Laurent at his time, as if he just continued where he left off. For me absolutely boring.

The Celine S/S 2019 show invite

I loved when he started at Saint Laurent and went crazy for his looks. But after some seasons, I had enough in my closet of his rock’n roll chic. Of course, the collection for Celine is good, very ’80s and sexy. It is also ok to stay to true to yourself. But as a designer, I find it important to go with time and to value a brand’s heritage. Hedi just repeated what he did for Dior and Saint Laurent. Instead of taking the Yves away, he went for the accent aigu. Instead of applying his aesthetics to the French Maison in a new creative way, he just did copy and paste. Boring.

Copy and paste

To be honest, for LVMH it would have been the smartest move to give Hedi Slimane his own label.

ABOUT CÉLINE

Céline was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana and her husband, Richard, as one of the first luxury brands in the industry to make a made-to-measure children’s shoe business. The couple opened a first boutique at 52 rue Malte in Paris. The brand was recognised by its logo, the red elephant created by Raymont Peynet.

Céline Vipiana

In 1960, the brand decided to change its positioning by focusing its business on a ready-to-wear fashion brand for women with a sportswear approach. Henceforth, the brand offered a range of leather goods such as bags, loafers, gloves and clothes. The trench became the iconic product of the house. In 1973, Céline, who remained at the helmet until 1997, redesigned its logo with the intertwined “C” Sulky canvas, linked to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which appeared as a symbol for Parisians. At that time, Céline began its expansion in the world with the opening of various boutiques in Monte Carlo, Geneva, Hong Kong, Lausanne, Toronto and Beverly Hills.

In 1987, Bernard Arnault decided to buy into Céline’s capital. However, it was only in 1996 that the brand was integrated into the LVMH group for 2.7 billion French francs ($540 million). LVMH propelled the brand to fame with the opening of a boutique at 36 avenue Montaigne in Paris.
American fashion designer Michael Kors was named the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Céline in 1997. During his tenure at Céline, Kors brought modern femininity with a luxurious spirit. In 2004, he left the fashion luxury house to focus his career on his own brand. In 2005, Italian designer Roberto Menichetti was named creative director. A year later, Croatian designer Ivana Omazic directed the design studio. Omazic was a former consultant for the brand and previously worked with Romeo Gigli, Prada, Jil Sander and Miu Miu. Omazic designed for Céline until 2008, after further disappointments for the brand.

Phoebe Philo’s Céline changed your wardrobe (even if you didn’t realise it)…  she managed to predict what you want six months before you know you do.

On September 4, 2008, the fashion portal Women’s Wear Daily announced that Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, had appointed Phoebe Philo as the new creative director of Céline. Her tenure began in October 2008, and she presented her first ready-to-wear collection for S/S 2010 at Paris Fashion Week. Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH’s fashion division, said that recruiting Philo was giving her the opportunity to express her vision. Philo brought a new touch to the brand creating functional clothes with a focus on materials and tailoring. In 2009, Vogue Magazine defined her style as the “cool minimal trend”. Philo studied at Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London. Prior to Céline, Philo held the position of Design Director at Chloé. In 2010, she received the Designer of the Year award from British Fashion Council. In 2011, she was awarded International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Both prizes were awarded for her work at Céline.

We all wanted it! Céline’s Boston bag – first seen on the S/S 2010 runway.

In December 2017, following increasing rumors in the press, Philo announced her departure from Céline after finishing the F/W 2018 collection, which is to presented in March of that same year. Thanking her team, Phoebe Philo stated “Working with Céline has been an exceptional experience for me these last 10 years. I am grateful to have worked with an incredibly talented and committed team and I would like to thank everyone along the way who has been part of the collaborations and conversations…it’s been amazing.”

Hedi Slimane

On January 21, 2018, LVMH announced the appointment of Hedi Slimane as Artistic, Creative and Image Director, set to join the house on February 1. He is to direct all Céline collections, extending the brand’s offering with the launch of men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.

Great news for me, I can dress next summer in my former Saint Laurent pieces and will look like wearing new Celine. Money saved for other things…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Céline, © Sandra Bauknecht

«Every trip is experienced three times: when you dream it, when you live it and when you remember it.»

Last week, I attended the FALCONERI show in Verona, which took place at the Calzedonia Headquarter. The group auditorium turned into a real airport for the event, transporting us – the audience – into the waiting atmosphere of the departure.

Amazing atmosphere before the show.

Front row with my German colleagues: Annette Weber and Viktoria Rader, both of Glamometer.

The music started and the models walked, some accompanied by dogs, next to treadmill baggage, suitcases trolleys and chairs reminiscent of a boarding situation. A beautiful journey through the new F/W 2018 color palette of the brand which goes from neutral beige and grey to colorful hues of pink, lilac, sky blue and turquoise. The collection is perfect for travelling and everyday life, comfortable but stylish, modest but luxurious. Perfect looks to fly to the destinations where FALCONERI is present today, such as Milan, Rome, Moscow, Athens, Munich, Vienna, Bern and now opening Lisbon.

The collection is divided in three parts:

• «Natural Performance» is dedicated to sportswear, as cashmere meets the active world.
• «Knitwear Lovers» is for the customer who is looking for warmth and softness in comfortable sweaters and coats to wear both, day and night.
• «Orient Express» celebrates Asian elegance by presenting coats and jackets with natural textures and kimonos in precious paisley fabrics. The most trending part of the collection.

On the men’s runway, there were lots of noble and sophisticated materials for sweaters and warm, enveloping jackets – a modern and dynamic look for today’s jet-setting connoisseur, a new concept of clothing created for all situations from daily commitment to leisure time.

Located in Avio, Trentino region, FALCONERI was acquired in 2009 by the Calzedonia Group. In 2013, the production has been brought back to Italy. Since 2014, thanks to the cutting-edge Shima Whole Garment technology, the brand can directly produce a complete item without seams.

For more information about FALCONERI, I invite you to visit the brand’s homepage.

After the show, lovely Elena Ciuprina sketched me in my FALCONERI outfit. What a beautiful and fun memory. Then, it was time to kiss and fly back home to Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Falconeri and © Sandra Bauknecht 

“I was thinking a lot about journeys as I started putting together my first Burberry collection. From my personal journey back to London 20 years after I showed my graduate collection here, to how far I have come. I was also inspired by how much London – the city that made me dream to become a designer – has evolved. This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of
this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom.”
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer

Yesterday evening, Riccardo Tisci presented his much-anticipated debut collection for BURBERRY with a show – of course live streamed on Instagram – that paid homage to the individuality, eccentricity and inimitable attitude of Britain with 134 looks.

The collection
In front of an audience of creative industry, friends and family, the S/S 2019 collection for men and women, called «Kingdom», was unveiled at a new show venue in Vauxhall, South West London. The new collection celebrates the diversity and the heart of England – the melting pot of creativity and style traditions from the punk and rebellious, to the formal and refined, all co-existing together.  It serves for all, grandparents, parents and the kids. Capturing the breadth of what British culture represents today, the collection defines the visual language and lexicon for Burberry through new house codes and accessories.

The space
As the first model took to the runway the previously dark space was flooded with light, symbolising a new chapter for the fashion house. British materials and textures including concrete, mahogany wood and critter glass transformed the interior with moving walls in tonal brand colours forming small intimate view points for the audience.

The music
Models including Kendall Jenner, Irina Shayk, Stella Tennant, Jourdan Dunn, Lily Donaldson, Freja Beha Erichsen, Natalia Vodianova, Anok Yai and Cat McNeil walked to an exclusively designed soundtrack by Robert Del Naja from Massive Attack.

24-hour capsule drop
Pieces from Riccardo’s first collection for BURBERRY are now available to buy for 24 hours exclusively on Instagram, WeChat and physically at BURBERRY’s London flagship store, 121 Regent Street.

Personal opinion
I had been very curious about Tisci’s approach to BURBERRY and think he had a good start with the focus on tailoring. Although he has not fully arrived yet. Probably because he tried to cater for every taste, many looks were definitely on the commercial side and too much of a mixture between Prada, Céline, and of course Givenchy during his era.

I spotted a detaching waist on a couple of outfits which I quite like. The fabric combination of flowing materials with leather for skirts was definitely amazing. Many details were outstanding, like the umbrella harness or tie fixture. It is a collection where you have to look twice.

But personally speaking I preferred the second part of the presentation as it showed what Tisci can do best, mixing high and low. The print, that is echoing a Sex Pistols song, reading «why did they kill Bambi?» is fun as well as the portraits on pants and dresses.

Am I the only one or did anybody else see a resemblance between these lamp shade-inspired fringe- and crystal-adorned evening looks and Mary Katrantzou‘s designs?!

Nevertheless, as I am a dedicated fashion collector, I will surely get some pieces from this collection. But not from the 24h Instagram sale, as I find the choice pretty disappointing. Too commercial for my taste.

Enjoy my favorite looks below…

I like this combination of different animal prints.

The sleeves are divine, the tailoring immaculate.

The Burberry stripes newly interpreted.

I like this one but somehow it has a little Vuitton touch for me.

Love this skirt!

My favorite look!

This shirt has a really cool twist. A real Tisci signature piece.

Not the biggest Kendall fan, but this Trench is amazing.

Cool umbrella harness

The fixture of the tie is totally great.

Favorite men’s shirt. I adore this pocket detail.

Such a cute dress.

Even though this could have been a typical Givenchy/Tisci look, I adore it for Burberry.

A must for every Swiss :-).

Second favorite look!

My next travel outfit.

Last look of the show – very elegant.

Looking forward to the next seasons to come! The more I look at the outfits, the more I like them. What about you?

TO SHOP BURBERRY ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Burberry

Today more coming up from Arles as on May 30th, 2018, Gucci showed its Cruise 2019 women’s and men’s show by Alessandro Michele also there. Revealed in an evocative setting of the ancient site of Les Alyscamps, a UNESCO World Heritage site with one of the world’s most renowned Roman necropoleis, which provided a remarkable backdrop for this beautiful collection. This followed Alessandro’s previous Cruise presentations that have taken place in other culturally significant locations, including the DIA-Art Foundation in New York City, the Cloisters at Westminster Abbey in London and the Palatina Gallery in Florence’s Palazzo Pitti.

Les Alyscamps in Arles

Here are some facts about Arles which is surprisingly the largest municipality in France in terms of surface, it is located on the Mediterranean coast, in Provence, between Marseille and Montpellier. Thanks to its rich history spanning 2500 years, Arles is inscribed on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1981 for its roman monuments.

Arles

Positioned on the Rhone delta, Arles benefits from the astonishing landscape of Camargue, considered one of Europe’s most important natural areas. Arles inspired numerous artists, such as Vincent Van Gogh and Pablo Picasso. Fashion designers Louis Féraud and Christian Lacroix (please see this week’s post here) have arlesian origins, consequently culture and creation are economic drivers such as: the publishing house Actes Sud, the photography festival Les Rencontres d’Arles and LUMA Arles, who is currently building a cultural center with architects Frank Gehry and Annabelle Selldorf, in charge of the renovation of the old industrial buildings. For further information about Arles visit www.ville-arles.fr.

Impressions of the Gucci Cruise 2019 show

The city of Arles, also consistently involved in cultural initiatives, was happy to collaborate with a luxury brand such as Gucci. This was the first time that the ancient site of Alyscampshas hosted an event of this caliber. Indeed, one could imagine no better publicity for the city, which is enjoying a renaissance, thanks in large part to Swiss art patron Maja Hoffmann, who was also among the guests at the show along with Christian Lacroix.

Hoffmann has enlisted Canadian-born architect Frank Gehry to build a 185-foot tower that will be the center point of her Luma art foundation, opened in 2013. The sprawling site, with an estimated cost of 150 million euros, also encompasses abandoned rail yards that have been renovated and now house exhibitions. The heir of the pharmaceutical giant Roche has invested extensively in the city, renovating two local hotels, the Hôtel d’Arlatan and the Hôtel du Cloître, and also owns the Michelin-starred organic restaurant La Chassagnette in the neighboring Camargue region.

Please find below some of the best looks from Gucci’s Cruise 2019 collection, for which creative director Alessandro Michele was obviously «fascinated by the idea of death». A haunted runway with lots of cross necklaces, Victorian references, velvet capes, neon lace tights, goth accents, and prints galore. Gucci at its best!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci

When it comes to accessories, there are those born of necessity and those born of coquetting. This season, there are both, from practical shopping bags to small pouchettes worn as belts or necklaces. As for the pleasure of fashion, there’s a new emphasis on statement earrings, chunky sneakers, and ever-impractical gloves that render a touchscreen phone essentially useless. So you better carry them only in your hands. Below are the 10 accessory trends worth trying next fall.

LoL, Sandra

The season’s animal-print shoes ensure that everyone will be looking at your feet when you make an entrance.

Designers were thinking about the potential of the classic silk scarf accessories, using them as bag straps; purse accessories; nontraditional ankle straps or wrapped around the head.

Sneakers, sneakers, sneakers – the hype is to over yet! The large, thick-soled models offer new extremes while being orthopedically posh.

Personally speaking, I adore this season’s necklace pouchettes and belt bags as they are so practical. Large enough to fit just the essentials inside, it’s a hands-free way to go.

The oversized statement earrings are here to stay – the bigger the better.

Shopping bags and plastic totes are the new luxe accessories. This is what high-low fashion is all about.

Matching your boots to your outfit will give you this winter’s most sophisticated look for an eye-catching effect.

This season’s totes and carryalls are, in all seriousness, quite supersized, pack your weekenders in style.

This season’s best gloves extend to the elbow and come in all the colors of the rainbow.

The cowboy boot is the must-have boot for fall. This Western silhouette is having a moment from New York to Paris and beyond.

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

After four cities, countless runway shows, it’s time to reflect on the themes and trends that emerged, both within the fashion industry and the cultural vibrations in general. So what’s new for next winter? Plenty. Easywear continues to be big, we’ll still see lots of ’80s references, and real fur has almost disappeared.  The overall trend might have been towards real clothes that are easy to wear in daily life. Next winter will be determined, celebrating individuality and style with a multitude of trends that are dying to be worn. It’s all about having fun!

Below is a summary of the most important trends for F/W 2018. Enjoy and choose yours!

LoL, Sandra

Layering is the absolute must next winter, with plays on texture and volume in a masterful game of accumulation.

After Gucci announced that it won’t be using any more real fur, many brands have followed the movement.

The only «real» fur trending next season is sheepskin which seems to be the natural choice for a cold weather wardrobe.

One of my favorite trends: the comeback of the cape, so versatile and easy to put over even the biggest sleeves.

Checkmate! Checks are at its best in fantastically mad all-over and color-blocked looks.

Classic Saville Row fabrics such as herringbone, glen plaid, and houndstooth look richer than ever. Enter the season with some swagger and a great men’s overcoat.

Wild West feeling!  Fashion looked to America to discover the New World through Western accents.

Black leather is out in full force. Rock your glam power woman silhouette with an sophisticated attitude to take the idea from Matrix remake to decidedly modern.

With a sensual masculinity and a boudoir elegance, those runway looks proved once again that nightwear is not restricted to an evening in.

From Brigitte Bardot’s beehive to Jackie Kennedy’s pillbox hat, and Mary Quant’s geometric prints, every ’60s fashion icon’s style has been revisited this season.

I don’t remember one season without any florals on the catwalks. F/W 2018 is no different -perennials come in every charming varietal – most important update is the three-dimensional effect.

This season, scarf prints are worn all over the body for a vibrant and flowing appearance.

With all these vibrant looks on the runway, clean, lean, and chic-white seems to be a very welcome alternative. Think: Maxi in length and slim in silhouette.

Ultra-reflective, high-shine materials – holographic, futuristic looks are big this winter. 

Think Dynasty in the ’80s where the focus was on glamorous eveningwear: sensual and festive frills.

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

S/S 2018 TREND 1: SILK ROAD
Céline – Hermès – Versace

S/S 2018 TREND 2: ART LOVERS
Akris – Prada – Missoni

S/S 2018 TREND 3: IN FULL BLOOM
Rochas – Erdem – Marni

S/S 2018 TREND 4: FRINGES
Balmain – Calvin Klein 205W39NYC– Dior

S/S 2018 TREND 5: MARABOU
Proenza Schouler – Saint Laurent – Nina Ricci

S/S 2018 TREND 6: LAVENDER
The Row – Michael Kors – Tom Ford

S/S 2018 TREND 7: LIFE IN PLASTIC
Chanel – Burberry – Valentino

S/S 2018 TREND 8: WORKOUT
Gucci – Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs

S/S 2018 TREND 9: PLAID PLEASE
Fendi – Prabal Gurung – Balenciaga

S/S 2018 TREND 10: 80’s DENIM
Max Mara – Stella McCartney – Oscar de la Renta

S/S 2018 TREND 11: THE TRENCH
Gabriela Hearst – Maison Margiela – Victoria Beckham

S/S 2018 TREND 12: SHOW YOUR UNDIES
Christopher Kane – Miu Miu – Alessandra Rich

S/S 2018 TREND 13: RAINBOW
Peter Pilotto – Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini – Vionnet

S/S 2018 TREND 14: WHITE AT NIGHT
Jil Sander – Alexander McQueen – Etro

S/S 2018 TREND 15: MISE-EN-SCÈNE
Moschino – Dolce & Gabbana – Comme des Garçons

Photos: via Vogue.com

Part of the S/S 2018 collection and available to shop straight after last week’s runway show, Jeremy Scott just brought My Little Pony to the Moschino catwalk. The brand’s creative director, who never strays far from popular culture when it comes to inspiration, has described himself as a full-blown Brony – for those who are a little unsure, it means an unexpected fan of My Little Pony. 

So cute: My Little Pony Lunchbox printed leather shoulder bag

Made in collaboration with the cult ’80s equestrian series, these pieces are part now of the see-now-buy-now capsule collection. For me an absolute must –  so reminiscent of my childhood dreams…

My favorite piece of the capsule collection: My Little Pony intarsia wool sweater

TO SHOP THE MOSCHINO + MY LITTLE PONY S/S 2018 CAPSULE COLLECTION, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Moschino

This year marks the 20th anniversary of the brutal murder of Gianni Versace in broad daylight in Miami Beach. I will never forget this moment when I saw the news on TV. I was studying fashion design and was at home working on one of my first assignments. At this time, Versace was big. We all dreamt of butterfly prints, safety pins, tight dresses and many more…

Gorgeous as her mother in the nineties… Kaia Gerber, daughter of Cindy Crawford, on the Versace S/S 2018 catwalk.

This week, Donatella Versace chose to stage her S/S 2018 show at Milan’s Triennale museum as a tribute to her late brother’s Gianni’s inspirations and creations. And so, for the first time since being the creative director of the company, she seeked inspiration directly from the house’s archives with all the key prints and pieces from the years 1991–95.

Versace in the ’90s

As I said those years marked the highlights of Gianni Versace’s designs. His most iconic collections included Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, Icons, Baroque, Animalia, Native Americans, Tresor de la Mer, Metal Mesh, and Butterflies.

Beautiful finale of the S/S 2018 Versace: Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Helena Christensen posing in classic Versace chainmail dresses.

To celebrate «a genius . . . an icon . . . my brother» as Donatella said, the show fulminated in a finale that brought tears to my eyes. Gianni’s favorite models, Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Helena Christensen, appeared in golden gowns on stage, to the chorus of George Michael’s «Freedom! ’90.» Front row? Alessandro Michele, Anthony Vaccarello and Pierpaolo Piccioli applauded to Donatella’s tribute to the late master of fashion.

Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Christy Burlington lipsynching to George Michael’s «Freedom 90» for the finale of Gianni’s Versace’s F/W 1991 show. Back then fashion was truly fun!

The era of the top models: Gianni Versace surrounded by them in 1991.

A beautiful Versace ad campaign from the ’90s.

This moment reminded me why I chose many years ago the direction of fashion and how much the work of Gianni Versace in the ’90s had inspired me to do so.

Thank you, Donatella, for this little reminder, we all sometimes need in this busy life! And thank God that I have kept everything in my closet… time to dust the butterflies off…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue.com and Rex Features

This F/W 2017 season is all about having fun and exploring new territories! With fashion in a maximalist mood, accessories have kept their center stage. On the runways, fishnets are back, boots sparkle, and this winter you definitely need three bags at once. Red is the color to buy and don’t store your overknee boots, they are hipper than ever.

The forecast: Get ready for your another sumptuous season!

LoL, Sandra

F/W 2017 TREND 1: FISHNET STOCKINGS
Lanvin – Jason Wu – Cinq à Sept

F/W 2017 TREND 2: GLITTER BOOTS
Oscar de la Renta – Chanel – Saint Laurent

F/W 2017 TREND 3: FURRY HATS
Marni – Prada – Miu Miu

F/W 2017 TREND 4: CRAZY HATS
Emilio Pucci – Moschino – Maison Margiela

F/W 2017 TREND 5: STUFFED ANIMALS
Dolce & Gabbana – Loewe – Jeremy Scott

F/W 2017 TREND 6: WIDE BELTS
Tod’s – Bottega Veneta – Michael Kors

F/W 2017 TREND 7: LOGOMANIA
Proenza Schouler – Christian Dior – Balenciaga

F/W 2017 TREND 8: COMBAT BOOTS
Altuzarra – Rodarte – Hermès

F/W 2017 TREND 9: HEEL ART
Mary Katrantzou – Salvatore Ferragamo – Dries Van Noten

F/W 2017 TREND 10: TRIPLE THREAT
Coach – Gucci – Fendi

F/W 2017 TREND 11: OVERKNEES
Balmain – Nina Ricci – Ellery

F/W 2017 TREND 12: WHITE OUT
Victoria Beckham – Marc Jacobs – Narciso Rodriguez

F/W 2017 TREND 13: FOCUS ON THE JEWELRY
Isabel Marant – Alexander Wang – Céline

Photos: Via Vogue.com