Sandra‘s Closet

Last week, I attended the Diesel Black Gold S/S 2014 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Terminal in New York City, such an amazing location to host a runway presentation.

For Andreas Melbostad‘s second season, he describes his inspiration like this: “A new ease of attitude by combining opposing icons to express strength and fearlessness”. The collection evolves its iconic staples to include a new, courageous fragility: metal eyelets, discs, zippers, buckles and hardware accents introduce luxe industrial elements, for a range of pieces, from leather to georgette. Lighter, softer materials – silk crepe de chine, silk georgette, cotton poplin, cotton voile – are juxtaposed against the collection’s utilitarian core of leather and denim.

I love the jeans that come with a more slouchy fit at the hips and deep rolled cuffs at the ankle. A pastel leather moto jacket will definitely be on my wish list. The only question is white, icy blue or baby pink?

LoL, Sandra

Designer Andreas Melbostad whom I met the first time this spring in Zurich (For the previous post, please click here please).

Front row: Renzo Rosso framed by Coco Rocha to the left and Kanye West to the right

Photos: Courtesy of Diesel Black Gold and © Sandra Bauknecht

“The easy glamour of the French Riviera in the late 1960s — inspired by Romy Schneider’s character in La Piscine — mixed with garden elements. Blueprint, botanical, lattice, Queen Anne’s lace and folly prints are paired with cleaner silhouettes and proportions in a fresh palette of green, white and coral.” — Tory Burch

Tory Burch referenced Romy Schneider in La Piscine and came up with a beautiful vintage vibe for S/S 2014. Inspired by the late 1960s, the pretty looks that came down the blue pool-like runway at New York Fashion Week last Tuesday, offered luxurious lace and florals, outstanding embroideries, botanical prints and needless to say, Tory’s iconic statement accessories.

Personally speaking, being so ultra-feminine, elegant and wearable, it is one of her best collections to date.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Tory Burch and © Sandra Bauknecht

Be part of London Fashion Week and watch the Burberry Prorsum S/S 2014 fashion show live on Sandra’s Closet tomorrow afternoon. Here is your front row invite, enjoy!

LoL, Sandra

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Going backstage before the Michael Kors S/S 2014 show was a truly great experience as I was able to explore the newly launched collection of amazing makeup products, body and sun care, and three new fragrances, set to launch in Switzerland in October 2013.

The look was all about the American designer’s beloved healthy glow and the new bronzer compacts were bringing the colour to the models’ cheekbones. Makeup artist Dick Page explained his inspiration for the runway make-up look and told me more about the new range, which is divided into three different “moods”, so-called SPORTY, SEXY, and GLAM, one to represent each of the Michael Kors woman’s changing moods.

“Very cool and downplayed, probably the cleanest look I’ve done in a while,” Dick Page told me. “The look is clean and warm. The collection has sort of 40s elements to it, so we didn’t want to get too ‘costumey’.”

He goes on: “I am mixing the two bronzers, using the SPORTY one ‘Glow’ for the general warmth on the face and the SEXY one ‘Flush’ on the cheeks almost like a blush accent. For the lips, I took the berry shade ‘Dame’ from the GLAM collection which is first painted on with a lip brush, then blotted and powdered over with a light tan eye shadow to diffuse the colour to the edge of the mouth, just for a hint of the shade. I also used the same eye shadow like a sort of concealer around the eye.

When I created that look, I was kind of thinking black and white, tone and structure of the face, something healthy, relaxed animated. Very confident, very Kors. Michael likes a lot of energy.”

Manicurist Jin Soon Choi, that I have had just met at Tibi backstage at few days ago, was applying the perfect nude nail polish ‘Hint’ from the SPORTY collection onto the models’ hands and feet, a sophisticated nail tone perfect for all skin tones.

The three new fragrances are:

SPORTY CITRUS – For the confident woman.
A crisp scent with orange and mandarin at the forefront, while warm woods and white florals linger in the background.

SEXY AMBER – For the seductress.
It puts the spotlight on sumptuous amber wrapped in sandalwood and musk, against a bright backdrop of dazzling orange, mandarin and white florals.

GLAM JASMINE – For the lady who likes to turn heads.
Giving center stage to Kors’ beloved floral note, jasmine, while warm woodsy notes and sparkling citrus are less prominent, the fragrance is overtly feminine.

Michael Kors with American television personality Joan Rivers backstage before the show.

After all those backstage photos, you might be interested in how the collection looked like on the runway. Here we go with my favourite looks. Are you sexy, sporty, or glam? With Michael Kors’ new fashion must-haves, your entire closet can match your personality according to your mood. The designer has created one of his best collections ever, with colours to match whichever occasion you choose. Two things not included? Michael Kors replied: “No flip-flops and leggings.But the collection is glamourous and practical at the same time.” And I am sure it will sell out fast… front row A-listers Kate Mara and Katie Holmes looked like they wanted to have every single piece. Get in line, ladies, we all want Michael!

LoL, Sandra

Runway Photos: Courtesy of Michael Kors, All Backstage Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

“Spring 2014 combines East Coast prep with West Coast ease. It’s Melrose to Malibu. The West Coast represents a golden era of surf, sport, and optimism.” – Tommy Hilfiger

Vibrant, beautiful colours appeared on the Tommy Hilfiger S/S 2014 runway, that was created like a beach scenery with sand dunes, surfboards and lifeguard chairs. When the cheerful music started, the audience was moving on their seats to the beats of Red Hot Chilli Peppers’ song “Californication” and “California Girls” by the Beach Boys. The outfits were stunning, perfect for all surfer girls among you.

Personally speaking, the wetsuit was a great inspiration. Cool, modern, with a certain twist. As the American designer describes his collection: “I revisited iconic elements of California style – the polo, barracuda jacket, sports jersey, and bowling shirt – and reinvented them with the relaxed spirit of the West Coast in mind. From softly tailored denim and chambray to our signature Hawaiian prints to innovative neoprene-bonded leather, the season captures the ease and youthful attitude of Cali style.”

Having seen this amazing collection, I actually never want summer to end… It is surely going to be a huge hit among the cool kids!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger and © Sandra Bauknecht

Sunday afternoon, Thakoon Panichgul showed his S/S 2014 collection, which was soft, delicate and very feminine. A lot of all in white looks, something that I have spotted quite often during the last days at New York Fashion Week.

I have especially adored the long pearl chains on Thakoon’s bags, created in collaboration with the Japanese jewelry company Tasaki, with whom Panichgul has a long-running partnership. Before the show started, I was able to explore the collection backstage. Funnily enough, I arrived with Anna Wintour at the same time.

It was great to see Thakoon again whom I had met for the first time in London at the Net-à-porter headquarters two years ago (For the previous post, please click here).

Lead Artist Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics created a look that was ”all about a beautiful fresh look for spring.” A little bit of spot concealing, she worked mainly with the new three matte multiples that will be newly launched for Spring 2014. So beauty addicts, it is time to get excited!

FACE: Sheer Glow Foundation
NEW Anguilla Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)
NEW Cappadoce Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)

EYES: Larger Than Life® Lengthening Mascara

BROWS: Bali Eyeshadow

LIPS: NEW Laos Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)

Stay tuned for more from New York Fashion Week coming up soon!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and Style.com

Rihanna, Justin Bieber and Co. all came to watch Opening Ceremony‘s runway debut that took place yesterday evening at Pier 57 in New York City. The runway felt like a scene of Fast & Furious when the audience spotted a row of very luxurious cars of which the models were exiting.

The collection was, of course, ultra-cool, coming from designer duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (who are also the masterminds behind Kenzo’s success) and inspired by street-racing with layers, buckles, visible zippers, and parachute-like shapes.

I had the honour to go backstage before the show and to meet Carol Lim in person.

Another amazing highlight was the interview with Tom Pecheux, Creative Makeup Director for Estée Lauder, who was in charge for the runway show’s makeup look.

I love Tom, he is so sweet with his very charming French accent. It is always a pleasure talking to him and listening to his beauty secrets. I had interviewed him already two years ago (For the previous post, please click here).

Estée Lauder and Opening Ceremony have teamed up to dress Estée Lauder’s beauty advisors around the globe. Please tell me a little more about it.

It was a big challenge. You need to create clothes for different countries, different characters, bodies, you have to be able to wash and dry them easily, best without ironing, so you have to find the right material. Makeup should be like that, too.

What do you hope that stands out the next season?

Beauty and indivisuality. The makeup is not about looking good is about feeling good. My job is to bring a proposal, like every fashion brand does. Afterwards you will have to decide if you like to embrace it. I don’t like to dictate a rule.

Is there a special reason why you give a kind of massage to the models in the beginning?

The models are working very hard, much harder than we do. They need a little bit of love, it is a great way to connect, to relax. You do a better job if the person on the chair feels good. When you do a massage, you relax all the muscles, you activate the blood circulation. By performing the massage, in terms of skin quality, you get a much better result. The makeup stays longer, the complexion looks more radiant.

The cheeks for your look seem very contoured?

Yes, because the young girls with their baby cheeks love to have a little bit of contour.

Do you have a favourite product right now?

Every day is different, every model and skin texture is different. A good concealer, a nude lipstick, a white and black eye pencil are among my essentials.

Do you think the red lips will stand out the next season?

The red lips will always be in. Orange will go, red will stay. It is pure femininity.

Personally speaking, what are you doing to find always new inspirations?

I work with talented people. I have been working for three decades and I am terribly afraid to work by myself. I love to meet new people, like Humberto and Carol, Derek Lam, all such creative people. The sharing is the most important thing.

MAKEUP: Tom Pecheux for Estée Lauder

Eyes: Pure Color Stay-on Shadow Paint in Halo, Pink Zinc or Chained (Matched with Skintone)

Lips: NEW Pure Color Envy Lipstick in Insatiable Ivory – launching March 2014

Cheeks: Bronze Goddess Powder Bronzer (Matched with Skintone)

Brows: NEW Double Wear Stay-in-Place Brow Lift Duo – launching January 2014

Face: Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup
Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder in Transparent
Double Wear Stay-in-Place Flawless Wear Concealer

Skin: NEW Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Creme – launching November 2013
Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher
Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II Male

NAILS: Naomi Nails for Estée Lauder

Nails: Nail Lacquer in Blue Blood
Overlay design: White and light blue acrylic paint

The hair was kept in a low tousled ponytail for the show. I have just loved every single detail of this look and hope that you have enjoyed it, too.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Getty and Estée Lauder

Right after I had arrived in NYC on Saturday, I went to Pier 59 to go backstage before the Tibi S/S 2014 show and to interview Amy Smilovic. The charming designer has brought her label in a very short amount of time to success and told me a little about her inspiration and how she manages daily life as a working mum of two sons.

What was your inspiration for S/S 2014?

It is travel-inspired, from Asia to Arizona. It is really about the grit and the work that goes into getting there and the beauty once you arrive. That was grounding the collection for me because I love beautiful things but you need to be able to wear them in daily life on the street. It is important for me that the collection is cool and clean but still feminine.

After your amazing very successful last collection, do you feel pressure to reinvent and top yourself?

Always. It is a good challenge. I would rather feel the pressure to reinvent myself than staying the same.

How do you manage in daily life being a business woman and mother of two?

Just do it! My sons are were important to me. Being a mum keeps me balanced, I don’t freak out about tiny details. The kids help me keep perspective.

Your secret to success?

I surround myself with really good people.

Do you have an icon? Which women would you like to wear your designs?

No, I don’t have an icon. It is a mix of strong women, such as Charlotte Rampling, Patti Smith and Kate Bosworth. I want really confident woman to wear my clothes.

Speaking of which, as I am a huge fan of the brand, I was of course wearing a Tibi dress combined with my leather biker jacket, pointed leather Mary-Jane pumps, both by Saint Laurent and the Bamboo shopper leather tote by Gucci.

I have truly loved the nail design created by Jin Soon Choi. Inspired by the collection’s travel theme, Jin came up with a manicure that expresses a virtual language developed by American travelers who lived a nomadic life in the 1920s.

These signs were used to help fellow travelers navigate; the vertical/ horizontal lines on the nails are an extraction  from the traveler symbol “all right”.

Jin Soon Choi with me backstage

Front row next to Stylebop Fashion Director Leila Yavari

What I have loved most about this beautiful collection were the details, like cutouts, unusual hemlines or fringes in the back. The jumpsuits, along with the palm print were amazing. My preferred look was the all orange combination pretty much at the end.

Enjoy all my favourites below and stay tuned for more!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht