Sandra‘s Closet

What are the trends for F/W 2020? The world has changed so much in the last months and we might not find all of the looks suitable for our current situation. I have waited such a long time with this report as I was quite nostalgic about it. Personally speaking, F/W 2020 might have been the last real fashion month as I used to know it. Due to the current pandemic, the S/S 2021 presentations were mostly virtual or with not many guests. I was in Milan and Paris but it felt very different from before.

Read on to see the most influential trends from the F/W 2020 runways and let’s dream of better times. Most of the looks are in stores now.

LoL, Sandra

The leitmotif of the season, strong shoulders are making their big comeback. Triangular shapes now reign supreme, for a truly on-point look.

With a season steeped in romantic influences, frills are enough to make any silhouette pretty.

The tasseled trim was given an elevated touch on the runway this season.

When it comes to equine-inspired fashion, we’re seeing less western, and more lady-like horse girls wearing sophisticated prints and equestrian caps.

Altogether, a vast and varied geometry of hypnotic checks makes a lasting impression and ticks all the boxes of a preppy season profile.

What the tailored shorts suit was for spring, the skirted version is for fall.

Collegiate sweaters, navy blazers, as well as stripes and checks, there’s a newfound appreciation for classic Americana style and the preppiness that comes with it.

Who says certain colors don’t go together? Certainly not the on-trend designers this season. The message is make it pop!

Dressing up like little girls that is what this trend is all about.

The ultra-sexy look, in every form possible, is holding up strong with exposed lingerie that simultaneously advocates luxurious seduction and a desire to reveal the unknown.

Black leather is making an unapologetic comeback. Think of of Keanu Reeves in The Matrix and go for your personal gothic, ’90s revival.

This fall, it is time to unleash your fetish side! Vinyl is the material that will keep you warm and others hot…

More than a trend… a recurrence. What’s new for winter? An all-over, utterly bourgeois allure.

Chic elegance with a folky twist, the bohemian attitude has been truly on the rise since many seasons.

Most fashion houses stopped using real fur, the only exception: shearling which was seen on many fall runways, preferably with a shaggy texture. Also available as fake fur.

Time to start practicing your victory rolls, because the ’40s are back.

Shine bright in silver. Opt for mesh, lamé, crystals or rhinestones.

Contemporary cutouts were revealed as the new way to wear the not-so-barely-there look at night.

Designers usher in a new twist on the bulbous silhouette, that we know from the ’80s.

The universally short-in-front, long-in-back is having a major moment in the form of dresses and gowns.

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

Going backstage before the Michael Kors S/S 2014 show was a truly great experience as I was able to explore the newly launched collection of amazing makeup products, body and sun care, and three new fragrances, set to launch in Switzerland in October 2013.

The look was all about the American designer’s beloved healthy glow and the new bronzer compacts were bringing the colour to the models’ cheekbones. Makeup artist Dick Page explained his inspiration for the runway make-up look and told me more about the new range, which is divided into three different “moods”, so-called SPORTY, SEXY, and GLAM, one to represent each of the Michael Kors woman’s changing moods.

“Very cool and downplayed, probably the cleanest look I’ve done in a while,” Dick Page told me. “The look is clean and warm. The collection has sort of 40s elements to it, so we didn’t want to get too ‘costumey’.”

He goes on: “I am mixing the two bronzers, using the SPORTY one ‘Glow’ for the general warmth on the face and the SEXY one ‘Flush’ on the cheeks almost like a blush accent. For the lips, I took the berry shade ‘Dame’ from the GLAM collection which is first painted on with a lip brush, then blotted and powdered over with a light tan eye shadow to diffuse the colour to the edge of the mouth, just for a hint of the shade. I also used the same eye shadow like a sort of concealer around the eye.

When I created that look, I was kind of thinking black and white, tone and structure of the face, something healthy, relaxed animated. Very confident, very Kors. Michael likes a lot of energy.”

Manicurist Jin Soon Choi, that I have had just met at Tibi backstage at few days ago, was applying the perfect nude nail polish ‘Hint’ from the SPORTY collection onto the models’ hands and feet, a sophisticated nail tone perfect for all skin tones.

The three new fragrances are:

SPORTY CITRUS – For the confident woman.
A crisp scent with orange and mandarin at the forefront, while warm woods and white florals linger in the background.

SEXY AMBER – For the seductress.
It puts the spotlight on sumptuous amber wrapped in sandalwood and musk, against a bright backdrop of dazzling orange, mandarin and white florals.

GLAM JASMINE – For the lady who likes to turn heads.
Giving center stage to Kors’ beloved floral note, jasmine, while warm woodsy notes and sparkling citrus are less prominent, the fragrance is overtly feminine.

Michael Kors with American television personality Joan Rivers backstage before the show.

After all those backstage photos, you might be interested in how the collection looked like on the runway. Here we go with my favourite looks. Are you sexy, sporty, or glam? With Michael Kors’ new fashion must-haves, your entire closet can match your personality according to your mood. The designer has created one of his best collections ever, with colours to match whichever occasion you choose. Two things not included? Michael Kors replied: “No flip-flops and leggings.But the collection is glamourous and practical at the same time.” And I am sure it will sell out fast… front row A-listers Kate Mara and Katie Holmes looked like they wanted to have every single piece. Get in line, ladies, we all want Michael!

LoL, Sandra

Runway Photos: Courtesy of Michael Kors, All Backstage Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Here is Bottega Veneta‘s S/S 2013 ad campaign shot by Peter Lindbergh on location at Universal Studios in Los Angeles in October 2012. The internationally renowned German photographer and filmmaker has been a hugely influential figure in fashion photography since he first began working for Italian Vogue in the late 1970’s. Known for his narrative sensibility, he has a direct, minimalist approach that captures the individuality of the subject. His images, often in black-and-white, are instantly recognizable for their spontaneity and intimacy.

Bottega Veneta‘s S/S 2013 collection centers on a subtle and complex individuality. A palette of dusty, saturated shades of peach, yellow, blue, red, gray, and plaster is anchored in black and brown. Those butterfly embellished accessories are absolutely on my wish list for summer.

The mood is both tough and sweet, starting with unexpected mixes of materials and prints, mostly florals, and surface embellishments of exceptional quality and varied provenance.
What a beautiful collection inspired by the `40s, Tomas Maier is back in the fore!

TO SHOP BOTTEGA VENETA, PLEASE CLICK HERE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta

The outlook for men’s F/W 11 fashion season has some similarities to the women’s trends, for example, it encompasses the World War eras by combining references of the 1920s with the 1940s. Military inspired pieces, feodora hats, spy-like looks that evoke the style of a gentleman from a previous decade. Just get inspired and make it your own, you don’t want to look like going to a costume ball.

A great way to wear the retro vibe would be the new Monterubello Zegna watch. The Zegna coat of arms was in fact officially created in 1939 when the founder Ermenegildo Zegna was made Conte di Monterubello.

The new classic timepiece encapsulates the history of the Zegna family’s region with the eponymous mountain and expresses the passion of the Italian brand for its history and ancestors. The Monterubello Collection is manufactured by Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux.

Monterubello Solo Tempo – Rose Gold with Alligator Strap
CHF 12.500, Ref. 38525-52-121-BK60

(also available in White Gold with Alligator Strap, CHF 13.800, Ref. 38525-53-122-BK60)

CASE
Material: rose gold, Diameter: 38.00 mm, Height: 8,52 mm, Crystal: sapphire antireflective, Case-back: sapphire crystal, Water resistance: 3 ATM

MOVEMENT
Girard-Perregaux GP03300-0030, mechanical with automatic winding, Calibre: 11 ½’’’, Frequency: 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz), Power reserve: min. 46 hours, Jewels: 27, Functions: hour, minute date, seconds

Monterubello Chronograph with Alligator Strap
CHF 23.000, Ref. 38527-52-121-BBBA

CASE
Material: rose gold, Diameter: 40.00 mm, Height: 12,63 mm, Crystal: sapphire antireflective, Case-back: sapphire crystal, Water resistance: 3 ATM

MOVEMENT
Girard-Perregaux GP03300-0032, mechanical with automatic winding, Calibre: 13’’’, Frequency: 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz), Power reserve: min. 46 hours, Jewels: 63, Functions: hour, minute date, seconds, chronograph

Photos: Courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

The 29, St. Honoré collection, named for Lancôme’s Paris address is an homage for F/W 2011 by creator Aaron De Mey to the most sophisticated femininity and style – the Parisian woman. This seductive colour statement captures the glamour of the 1940s (complementing the ’40s runway trend) with luscious red lips, thick eyeliner and seductive smokey eyes.
Discover your inner femme fatale!

Maison Lancôme Blush – $48/CHF 65 – Limited Edition

Les Oeillades Eyeshadow and Brow Compact Quad – $54/CHF 75 – 02 Blondette Fatale – Limited Edition – with 4 subtle matte and iridescent shades to enhance eyes and define eyebrows and Ombre Absolue Palette – G10 Gris Fatale

Hypnôse Drama Mascara – $31/CHF 44 – 15 Gris Fatal – deep grey – Limited Edition

Le Crayon Khôl – $28/CHF 39 – 10 Black Gold or 11 Strass– a waterproof eye pencil with sparkles – Limited Edition

Le French Touch Absolu Lip Colour – $40/CHF 48 – Rouge Saint Honoré – highly pigmented red or – Rouge Faubourg – captivating carmine lipstick with red flecks of glitter – Limited Edition – Rouge 29 – a bluish red

Le Vernis Nail Polish – $16/CHF25 – 22 Rouge Saint Honoré or 23 Noir 29 – infused with mini multi-coloured flecks – Limited Edition. Use these hues individually or combine them for an ultra-sophisticated look.

Enjoy those behind-the-scenes photos below and get inspired for your F/W 2011 makeup look.
The collection will be available in Switzerland next month.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Barwerd Van Der Plas for Lancôme © 2011, Stills: Hondodigital for Lancôme © 2011

Fashion repeats itself and designers love to seek inspiration from previous decades. For F/W 2011, there were lots of 1940s-themed references. The best approach to reinvent this fashion era has been realized by Miu Miu, as well as by Gucci, Christian Dior, and Jonathan Saunders.

What do the `40s stand for in fashion? The world was at war which meant that resources were restricted everywhere. Fashion had to be more practical. Function was more important than form. Women’s skirts became much shorter and much simpler, but as seen today on the F/W 2011 runways, the basic A-line frame or slight flare of many of the skirts tends to flatter many figures. Floral prints seem to dominate the early 1940’s and have been lovely interpreted by Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu this season.

Women’s chunky heeled shoes were one of the marvels of 1940’s fashion along with stylish accessories such as gloves and feodora hats. Those must-haves for F/W 2011 are absolutely stylish and best of all, will make you instantly look mysterious like you are coming out of a spy movie.

LoL, Sandra

A multisensorial event hosted in Shanghai at the iconic Park Hyatt depicts the Miu Miu world in a glitzy experience, with performances and a fashion show taking guests through a 1940s-flavored glamour bash.

For the occasion, one of the world’s highest hotels, possibly one of the Chinese’s megalopolis most memorable spots, has been completely restyled by renowned Hollywood set designer Carl Sprague.

Giving life to a cinematic fantasy of glamorous abandon, Sprague has created a sensational set for a party held up high in the sky setting the stage for glamorous stars to banter, dine, sing and dance the night away.

Cecilia Cheung

Zhou Dong

The event occupied five of the Hyatt’s fourteen floors. Throughout the evening a dinner, a fashion show and a series of performances and acts brought the Miu Miu world to life throughout the luxurious venue. The Supper Club style dinner, featuring the Miu Miu Fall Winter 2011/12 fashion show (see photo above), took place with models meandering through the tables. Three other floors were turned into the party venue.

Singer Florrie

Performances included London band Florrie in concert and Variety International in a unique 1940s-themed edition of their world-renowned variety show: a jazz club, an illusionist act, cabaret and much more, in a spectacular mingling of song, dance, circus and vaudeville.

Variety International

DJ sessions by Misty Rabbit and Dan Lywood animated the party until late.

The unforgettable experience transported more than 800 guests, for one night, into a parallel dimension of glamorous emotion: a depiction of the Miu Miu world in its lively complexity.

And guess why such an event took place in Shanghai?! I would say because the Chinese are the customers of the future, if not already of today…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Miu Miu

Summer has officially just started, but when it comes to fashion, we are right in the middle of winter.
The F/W 2011 ad campaigns are popping up and one of the most talked about this season is Prada’s „fashion maximalism“. Shot by Steven Meisel, the photos show never-before-seen faces such as Frida Gustavsson, Ondria Hardin, Dorte Limkilde, Kelly Mittendorf, Antonia Wesseloh and Julia Zimmer.

One thing is for sure, same as the S/S 2011 banana prints, those trompe l’oeil boots in bright and exotic skins will be seen everywhere the next season and the `60s colour block shift dress will be on every fashionista’s shopping list.

It wouldn’t be Miuccia Prada, if she didn’t surprise us once more. The face of her Miu Miu F/W 2011 ad campaign is 14-year-old actress Hailee Steinfeld who was photographed by Bruce Weber.

After nine seasons working with Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, Miu Miu is going in a new direction, with this different and fresh campaign.

Those glitter booties are sure to get even more buzz, they are to-die-for! Same as the oversized clutch bags, preferably in fur.

LoL, Sandra

Louis Vuitton’s F/W 2011 show had already the best invitation with a gorgeous tassel hanging from it. Marc Jacobs also touched the Parisian World War II-era like Miu Miu did but he added a fetish vibe which is said to be a metaphore for women’s obsession with bags. Talking about the power of a handbag which brand could be better than Louis Vuitton.

The show’s decor was absolutely amazing. Four elevators transported the models on stage. Porters for each opened the lift doors like in a luxury hotel.

The looks were all about peaked caps, sculpted jackets, jodhpur pants, tiny little briefs and below-the-knee pencil skirts.

Later on, French maids in plasticized lace and embellishments in the shape of masks and handcuffs started to exalt the imagination.

Kate Moss presented the last look waving a cigarette and looked smoking hot in both senses. If you are interested, you can watch the show by clicking here.

The must-have Louis Vuitton bag for F/W 2011 will be the reinterpreted 1958 top-handle Lockit bag. For the show, some versions had a diamond encrusted handcuff attached to it.
What can you say… such a Louis Vuitton handbag is for life.

Below you can see which celebrities were spotted at the show. I hope that you will like it.

LoL, Sandra

Girlfriends Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and Carolin Sieber

Carmen Kass, Marc Jacobs and Kate Moss

Elodie Bouchez kissed by Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs with Fan Bing Bing wearing a Louis Vuitton S/S 2011 dress

Daisy Lowe, Photos: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton and Stylerumor.com

Palais d'Iena

My show outfit: Skirt, top and shoes from Miu Miu's S/S 2011 collection, clutch by Chanel and leather jacket by Gucci

The Miu Miu F/W 2011 show took place at the Palais d’ Iéna in Paris, the seat of the Conseil Economique, Social et Environnemental (CESE). It was the first time that the Palace’s spaces, which were designed by the famous architect Auguste Perret, were used for a fashion show.

With its striking views of the Eiffel tower, the location was just perfect for a collection that transported the audience back to World War II-era Paris. But it wouldn’t be Miuccia Prada if she didn’t surprise us. The retro vibe was definitely there but absolutely modernized.

The bare legs of the models ended in super sharp glitter sandal booties. Mink was twisted around the hips and the clutch bags looked like gigantic coin purses. The silhouettes were no doubt `40s with bold-shouldered jackets and slim pencil skirts.
It was a very grown-up Miu Miu collection.

The show’s front row was filled with young celebrities. Actress Hailee Steinfeld, who is only 14, is said to be Miuccia’s new muse. All those young ladies looked fabulous in Miu Miu’s S/S 2011 collection. Please enjoy the photos before the show.

LoL, Sandra

Anais Demoustier in Miu Miu

Ginnifer Goodwin & Mila Kunis, both in Miu Miu

Hailee Steinfeld in Miu Miu

Mélanie Thierry in Miu Miu

Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Anna Dello Russo, both in Miu Miu and Shala Monroque in Prada

Julia Restoin Roitfeld in the fabulous Miu Miu leather jacket from the S/S 2011 collection

Jennifer Lawrence in Miu Miu

Jasmine Trinca & Valeria Bilello, both in Miu Miu