Sandra‘s Closet

I am still so in shock. One of my favorite designers, especially because of his amazing character, Alber Elbaz, died Saturday in Paris from Covid-19. He was such a warm-hearted person, always thinking about his employees. Instantly recognisable for his broad smile and distinctive personal uniform of bow ties and thick-rimmed glasses, he was best known for his star turn leading couture house Lanvin. At their peak, sales were as high as €235 million. He definitely died too young, in June he would have turned 60.

Born in Morocco and educated in Israel, Elbaz climbed the ranks of the fashion industry from a small dressmaker’s shop in New York City to serve at the helm of Guy Laroche. Then appointed by Pierre Bergé, Elbaz next worked as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent from 1998 until he was fired after three seasons when Gucci bought the company and put Tom Ford in charge.

Designer Alber Elbaz walks down the runway at the S/S 2004 Lanvin show in Paris.

Elbaz began designing for Lanvin in 2001. He also held a minority stake in the company of nearly 18 percent. During his 14-year tenure, he was credited with the house’s renewed appeal thanks to Elbaz’s «classic with a twist» takes on silk cocktail dresses and other feminine designs, often playing with color or other unusual variations on hallmark elegance.

Alber’s sketches for Lanvin

His humorous sketches of everything from lollipops to his own face became a brand signature, also remember the amazing collaboration he did with Lancôme. Elbaz’s simple, feminine clothing, which has been compared to Lanvin’s 1920s outfits, was lauded by the fashion press. In 2005 Suzy Menkes wrote: «Elbaz is every woman’s darling. And that includes Nicole, Kate, Chloë Sevigny, Sofia Coppola and a slew of rising movie names.»

In October 2015, Elbaz announced that he had been let go from Lanvin after disagreements with the company’s major shareholder, Shaw-Lan Wang. He then took some time off until he launched a new label together with Swiss luxury group Richemont, AZ Factory, in January.

A tribute to Alber today on the AZ Factory homepage.

The following text has been written months ago but sometimes time flies and I always postponed to post it. It feels so bizarre to show it to you now post mortem. However, it is a tribute to Alber, to his latest venture in fashion, that hopefully will also have a great input how the world consumes fashion. It is all about inclusivity and diversity. I invite you to get your last piece designed by Alber…

In a Zoom call with Alber in January…

So let me introduce you to AZ Factory, the eagerly awaited fashion concept from Alber Elbaz. Launched at Paris Haute Couture Week in January, it had not only marked the comeback of Elbaz but also Richemont’s first foray into launching a fashion label from scratch, a €25 million investment, that is focusing on online distribution.

Described as Elbaz’ «dream factory» and created with «women of our times» in mind, the label is an expansion of the playful, confident pieces that have become his calling card through the years. This is a marvellous fashion moment! Neither a revolution nor an evolution but a refreshing reset! AZ Factory might change the face of luxury fashion as long as we’ve known it and Alber Elbaz might have become the new «Hervé Leger». Over the next few months a six part capsule collection will be launching.

Alber wanted to design for «All Women».

And one of the most exciting elements surrounding this new brand is the diversity in its sizing, with an emphasis placed on the fact that this entire six capsule series is inclusive for «All Women,» placing importance on body positivity and inclusivity. Sizing ranges from XXS-4XL or FR34 – FR48.

MyBody ribbed stretch-knit mini dress and MyBody paneled stretch-knit leggings

MyBody
The essence of the MyBody capsule is bodycon styles made from a technical weave fabric that sculpt the female form. The AnatoKnit technology provides hugging tension that shapes your natural curves. The boning at the back supports your posture and the ergonomic design features allow for movement and breathability. The idea behind this is functional fashion that has been made for «women on the move» and Alber wanted to encourage us to wear these with their sneakers. I think they’d look perfectly splendid with heels too.

Your Body color-block ribbed stretch-knit mini dress and Your Body striped stretch-knit leggings

MyBody 2.0
The sporty edition of MY BODY. This additional story features colourblock designs paired with matching leggings. It’s the next level of athleisure.

Pijama Valentine printed silk-twill shirt and Pijama Valentine printed silk-twill wide-leg pants

Switchwear Pyjamas
Uplifting printed silk pyjamas are equally suited for sleep or for styling your look day or night. Made in collaboration with several artists and designers, which Alber found on Instagram due to the pandemic, these touching visuals reflect the emotions of our times and the wish to spread messages of hope, love and togetherness.

Switchwear recycled duchesse-satin maxi skirt

Switchwear
From bed, Zoom, to yoga, to the supermarket, to couch, to date night – Switchwear takes you from cozy to couture (and back!) in under 60 seconds. Upgrade your supremely soft Switchwear Prime-layers with the iridescent, satin-like Switchwear Duchesse Add Ons.

Neoprene and mesh sneakers

Pointy Sneakers
Hybrid footwear that combines the comfort and function of a sneaker with the elongating benefits of a pointy-toe shoes. Performance sneaker construction so you don’t have to trade off all-day comfort and stability.

In light of this, I was invited by Alber Elbaz and NET-A-PORTER to a live launch celebration for AZ Factory in the end of January. I also received a spectacle in a box to open during the event that included sweets, a puzzle, ….

Alber is such a sweet human being. He told us that he started his new venture by thinking: «How can I hug women? Who’s my customer? Is she an architect, who’s her mother, does she have kids?» He went on: «I wanted to create something for all of them. I never had one muse. I have never understood how to design for only one woman. It is the variety that counts. The world doesn’t exist of one song, one book or just one woman. Life is not black and white. I wanted to find something in the middle without being mediocre. I thought due to my own body shape that you have to hide who you are if you are a plus size. And the tiny women are sent to the children’s department. I wanted to change that. I also created the long zip opener so that women are not dependent on a man to open their dress. My sneakers are hybrid footwear, pointed like pumps to elongate the legs with all-day comfort. SwitchWear plays a key role for me. For example you wear leggings for travel and once you arrive, you just put a skirt over it. It’s modular dressing and also includes pyjamas. It is comfort, technology and a couture dream in one.»

Creativity? «The moment I feel and don’t be asked…» Az Lazy, Az Crazy…

Thank you, Alber, for your creativity, your positivity and for making us dream… you will never be forgotten!

TO SHOP AZ FACTORY, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © AZ Factory, Net-à-Porter, © Sandra Bauknecht
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Great news for the fashion world: luxury conglomerate Richemont is teaming up with former Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz for a new venture at a time when luxury goods groups are vying to make star hires.

«I am very happy to partner with Richemont and to establish my ‘dream factory,’ which will focus on developing solutions for women of our times,» Elbaz said in a statement.

Me with Alber Elbaz in 2015

Elbaz was born in Casablanca, Morocco, in 1961 to a Moroccan Jewish family. He immigrated to Israel with his family at the age of ten and grew up in Holon. After his studies at Shenkar College of Engineering and Design, he had jobs at Geoffrey Beene, Guy Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent where he designed the Rive Gauche collection under Saint Laurent himself, and Krizia.

Lanvin F/W 2012 campaign

He then began designing for Lanvin, France’s oldest fashion house, in 2001 and transformed the Maison from a small label with only 15 wholesale accounts to a global fashion house known for feminine, comfortable and clever ready-to-wear that earned the approval of celebrities, critics and customers alike. Elbaz’s simple, feminine clothing, which has been compared to Lanvin’s 1920s outfits, has been lauded by the fashion press. Suzy Menkes wrote: «Elbaz is every woman’s darling. And that includes Nicole, Kate, Chloë Sevigny, Sofia Coppola and a slew of rising movie names.» In 2010, Elbaz launched for Lanvin a mass-market collection with H&M, and proved to be one of the retailer’s most popular annual runway collaboration series. In 2013, he created a much anticipated make-up collection for Lancôme.

Therefore the shock was huge when the announcement came that Elbaz had been let go from the fashion house due to major disagreements on strategy and targeted investment in 2015 with major shareholder Taiwanese businesswoman Shaw-Lan Wang. The house has since changed hands and failed to find its footing.

Shaw-Lan Wang and Alber Elbaz in happier times. Photo: BFA / The Cut

After Elbaz was abruptly fired from Lanvin, the industry has wondered when and how he might return to design full-time. Between then and now, he has turned his hand to designing accessories for LeSportsac, collaborated on a fragrance with luxury perfumer Frédéric Malle, and mentored at prestigious design schools. Recently, the star designer had his comeback For Elbaz, after having skipped several years of shows, watching the fashion industry shift from the sidelines. He designed a capsule collection of bags and shoes for luxury Italian brand Tod’s, called «Happy Moments.» Known for his charming and emotional personality, it couldn’t be a better match.

Alber Elbaz lives it up at Tod’s Happy Moments launch. Photo: Tod’s / Getty

«I like fashion, I like fashion people. But after Lanvin, I did not like fashion,» he told Elle Magazine in September 2019, «I needed to fall in love with fashion again.» To fall back in love with fashion took a lot of time. «Because you have to take a few years distance,» Elbaz continues earnestly.

A shoe from Tod’s Happy Moments collection created by Elbaz.

Now Elbaz has a partner for his next chapter. Today, Richemont  announced an agreement to form a joint venture with the designer, calling it AZfashion, which the Swiss luxury conglomerate described as «an innovative and dynamic start-up, meant to turn dreams into reality.»

As much as the fashion industry has anticipated Elbaz’s return, he and Richemont have their work cut out for them. The announcement about the new brand indicates a completely different approach in this new brand, which the designer told the New York Times will be project-based.

Feminine and dreamy designs: Lanvin F/W 2011 by Alber Elbaz

«Upon hearing Alber Elbaz describe his vision for fashion and the projects it inspires in him, I was again struck by his creativity and insight,» Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert said in a statement. «His talent and inventiveness, with his sensitivity towards women and their wellbeing, will be of great value to our group and its maisons.»

We will all be watching how Elbaz’ vision will transform… I am sure he will let us dream again… something that is desperately needed in today’s fashion world. Fashion should be fun and Elbaz will teach us!

LoL, Sandra

Me in a Lanvin by Alber Elbaz dress, click here for the post.

 Photo: © David Biedert Photography
Photos: Courtesy of the Brands, or otherwise mentioned

«Christmas trees are the strongest ‘souvenir’ of my happy childhood.» – Karl Lagerfeld

I love Christmas trees and my favorite one (besides my own) can be found at London’s Claridge’s Hotel where in the eighth consecutive year a creative visionary has been invited to reinterpret the tree in their own distinctive style. This December, it is Karl Lagerfeld, one of the fashion world’s most influential creative forces, who created the stunning festive installation, a sixteen foot high inverted tree with silver gilded roots topped with a multi-faceted mirrored star which reflects rays of magical light across the art deco lobby. Reminiscent of a silver stalactite, the tree is hung with traditional silver lametta decorations, silver butter leather feathers and snowflakes handmade by craftsmen in Germany with tree candles giving a warm, inviting glow. Under the centerpiece sit hand sewn white Icelandic sheepskin rugs to reflect a recent snowfall.The famous designer was inspired by his own childhood memories of Christmas.

The Claridge’s Christmas Tree has long been a festive Mayfair landmark, drawing visitors and Londoners alike to marvel at its magnificent and ever-changing design. Scroll down to explore Claridge’s Christmas Tree designs through the years.

2016: SIR JONY IVE AND MARC NEWSON

2015: CHRISTOPHER BAILEY FOR BURBERRY

2014: DOLCE & GABBANA

2013: DOLCE & GABBANA

2012: KALLY ELLIS OF MCQUEENS

2011: ALBER ELBAZ FOR LANVIN

2010: JOHN GALLIANO FOR DIOR

2009: JOHN GALLIANO FOR DIOR

Merry Christmas to all of you – may you all sparkle as these beautiful trees with joy, love and laughter.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Claridge’s

The illustrious fashion designer Alber Elbaz has met his match in the perfume world with this beautiful collaboration with Frédéric Malle. Created together with perfumer Dominique Ropion, the ever-mysterious Superstitious Eau de Parfum captures the elusive, unidentifiable scent of a woman’s dress.

Dream team: Frédéric Malle and Alber Elbaz

A classic floral aldehydic perfume structures Elbaz’s free-flowing vision of an elaborate fabric in which everyone can find their own beauty: Turkish rose oil and Egyptian jasmine, enhanced by a touch of peach, rest on a bed of amber and frankincense imbued with Haitian vetiver. A final touch of aldehydes sharpens the perfume’s opulence with an urban edge.

TO SHOP THE NEW SUPERSTITIOUS EAU DE PARFUM, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Frederic Malle, Madame Le Figaro
Frederic Malle und Alber Elbaz – © But Sou Lai

This beautiful chess set by Lanvin will provide endless entertainment and also serves as a unique display piece for the home. The wooden figures have been skilfully carved into some of the characters from former Creative Director Alber Elbaz‘s illustrations and painted with clothing inspired by the house’s ready-to-wear collections.

It will make the perfect gift for lovers of the brand as well as the game. A great way of getting a last piece by the wonderful Alber Elbaz who left the company after a dispute regarding the House’s strategy.

TO SHOP THE CHESS SET BY LANVIN, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Lanvin

It’s been a crazy week in fashion. Those who have been following me on instagram @sandrascloset got the breaking news already this afternoon. After Raf Simons another designer is joining the fashion carrousel: Alber Elbaz leaves Lanvin after 14 years. It is said that his exit was based on a decision made by Lanvin owner Shaw-Lan ​Wang.​

No word so far on Alber’s next move, but one thing is for sure after Simons it’s another high-profile fashion departure in a week and it puts Elbaz in a premium position to be considered for the Dior post. I think that it would be a perfect match!

Alber Elbaz with me in Paris a few weeks ago.

Lanvin F/W 2009

Lanvin Ad Campaign F/W 2015

Now, it is a good time to shop the latest designs by Alber Elbaz for Lanvin. I put a great outfit together for you.

Get the look: Embellished velvet and wool-gabardine jacket, cutout metallic fil coupé chiffon mini dress, metallic suede brogues, Sugar medium quilted suede shoulder bag, tasseled gold-tone crystal necklace and snake chain-trimmed rabbit-felt hat, all by Lanvin.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Lanvin, © Getty Images and © Sandra Bauknecht

Paris Fashion Week is always fun, but of course also very tiring and as you might have realized I get barely time to blog. During the day, you attend many runway shows, visit showrooms, have meetings and run from one place to the other. But don’t get me wrong, I am not complaining, I absolutely adore my job.

At night, the fashion crowd doesn’t stop. Events, launches and after show celebrations take place, such as the Valentino Tribe Party on Tuesday at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris.

The beautiful location was decorated with all sorts of tribal elements and Monsieur Valentino himself along with Alber Elbaz, Creative Director Lanvin, showed up during the night.

With Mister Valentino Garavani himself...

… and with lovely Alber Elbaz of Lanvin.

Later, I went to Raspoutine where L’Officiel Russia celebrated their new social editor, Kisa. It was great to see many familiar faces such as Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld, Greg Chait of The Elder Statesman, Jean-Thierry Besins of Bulliony, Natasha Zinko, Lorenzo Giove of Repossi and of course, Benjamin Eymère of L’Officiel Paris… and more!

Enjoy some of the impressions below!

LoL, Sandra

Lisa Feldmann of L’Officiel Germany, my humble self, Alexander Fedotov and Xenia Sobtchak

Lorenzo Giove framed by Fiammetta Cicogna to the right and me to the left.

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Natasha Zinko and Kisa

Though we may spend quite some time devising our Halloween decorations, the holiday is gone in a flash and we are left with the next one to come. Each year, I love to dress my Christmas tree in a different color theme. Therefore I am always looking for some new inspirations.

Net-à-porter offers for the first time limited edition glass bauble sets by Bombki. Michael Peterson, the English brand’s head designer, has been commissioned by everyone from Sir Paul Smith to London’s Saint Paul’s Cathedral. Since 2001, he has been creating the most stunning Christmas decorations you can imagine. See for yourself:

Little Paris set of five glass baubles by Bombki

Little London set of five glass baubles by Bombki

Little Russia set of five glass baubles by Bombki

Little New York set of five glass baubles by Bombki

Also amazing are Lanvin’s baubles. Imagine a tree filled with these ones topped with a red grosgrain bow and printed with unique and colorful sketches by Alber Elbaz. They also make a great and stylish gift.

LoL, Sandra

Printed porcelain bauble by Lanvin

Stills: Courtesy of the Brands

In January, I told you for the first time about the amazing collaboration between Lancôme and Alber Elbaz, followed by a post in the beginning of May when I was able to show you the limited edition make-up collection that will hit the stores on June 15, 2013. Today, the Lancôme press office sent me this uber-cute video, that is SO FASHION WEEK! You have to watch it!

In the beginning of July, there will be the Hypnôse Show Party, one of the events of the year which will be held during Couture week in Paris with celebrities, socialites, trendsetters, top beauty and fashion editors. The “extravagant party” everybody wants to attend and I cannot! I am so bumped as I will be travelling for one month to China for work and pleasure. Of course, all the good things are always taking place at the same time… but I am also very excited for my time in Asia! And I hope that you are, too… as I will be keeping you posted from all the hot spots in Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and many other places.

LoL, Sandra

Photos and video: Courtesy of Lancôme

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As I told you already in January, Lancôme and Lanvin‘s Creative Director Alber Elbaz have joined forces to create the limited edition collection HYPNÔSE SHOW. Here is your sneak preview at those beauty must-haves.

Sometimes we just need a little something to brighten up a morning beauty routine. Alber Elbaz gives eye makeup a touch of whimsy for Lancôme. This amazing collection that will hit the shelves with very limited quantities, comprises the four Lancôme’s best-selling mascaras with matching eye shadow palettes, all embellished with designs, such as blue stars, red hearts, pink polka dots, and green heavily lashed lids. There will also be one set of false lashes.

The limited-edition Hypnôse Show line is due to hit counters worldwide on June 15, 2013. In Switzerland exclusively at Marionnaud until July 1, 2013.

Mascara Hypnôse Show, Hypnôse Drama Show, Hypnôse Star Show, Hypnôse Doll Eyes Show, CHF 49.00 each
Hypnôse Palette CHF 79.00 each, Ombre Hypnôse CHF 39.00 each, Faux-Cils Show CHF 38.00

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Lancôme and © Sandra Bauknecht