Hermès Arceau The Three Graces

Created in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, the Arceau watch lends itself to the expression of Hermès skills. Produced in a numbered limited edition of 24, the white gold and diamond Arceau The Three Graces reinterprets the theme of the eponymous silk scarf designed by British artist Alice Shirley in 2020.

Crafted in wood marquetry and miniature painting on aventurine, the elegant giraffe adorning the dial of Arceau The Three Graces was originally inspired by a trip to South Africa, when Alice Shirley had the privilege of spotting three giraffes partially concealed by an acacia tree. The delicacy and poetry of this gigantic creature, with its ample and graceful movements, is highlighted by the skilled touch of Hermès artisans, who have reproduced its natural harmony.

To transpose the animal’s profile, long neck and mottled coat to the scale of a dial, the marquetry specialist begins by transferring and downscaling the design, then rigorously selecting the type, grain and colour of the wood used to reproduce it. In this case that meant a combination of naturally dark, light, stained or bleached wood – American walnut and maple, European sycamore and tulip tree – chosen for their nuances and textures similar to those of the original design. The artisan cuts out the multitude of tiny elements – 195 pieces in all – forming the portrait that is then assembled like a puzzle, before gluing, sanding and applying a protective varnish.

This marquetry decoration comes to life in the heart of a work that also requires meticulous care and a flair for colours. On a scintillating aventurine base, the painter traces the outlines of the motif before placing the piece in the kiln to fix the colours in place. He then forms the various volumes of the background vegetation using successive layers of micro-painting applied with a brush and heat-dried in a kiln. He proceeds in the same way for the flat areas of colours, before finalizing his composition with small precise touches. The challenge of such an endeavour lies in miniaturising a rich palette of nuances, contrasts and subtle details. Several weeks of rigorous discipline, patience and dexterity are required to produce this dial, which is by nature unique.

Representing a combination of artistic crafts and watchmaking, the Arceau The Three Graces watch is powered by the Hermès H1912 mechanical self-winding movement driving hours and minutes hands. The deep hues of the dial, framed by a precious white gold case set with 82 diamonds, are highlighted by a blue sapphire alligator strap made in the Hermès Horloger workshops.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès

Hermès Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Watch

The Arceau watch, created by Henri d’Origny in 1978, lends its classic yet distinctive round shape – with its asymmetrical stirrup-inspired lugs – to infinite expressions of Hermès creativity, style and expertise. Its timeless white gold silhouette stages an alliance between leather craftsmanship and Haute Horlogerie in a one-of-a-kind pocket watch. Beating to the rhythm of the Manufacture H1924 minute-repeater and tourbillon movement, the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! frames a refined white enamel dial, protected by a cover adorned with a tyrannosaurus composed of marquetry and leather mosaic.

After the gruff bear of the Slim of Hermes Grrrrr! and the wolf howling in the moonlight of the Arceau Awooooo, the Arceau Pocket Aaaaaargh! watch is joining the bestiary imagined by English artist Alice Shirley. On this model, the «king of the tyrant lizards» with half-open jaws and an attentive eye comes to life under the expert guidance of Hermès watchmakers, after a month of meticulous work using exclusive techniques developed in its leather workshops.

The design of the tyrannosaurus, which appears to be peeking through a porthole, stands out against the cover and involves a combination of several demanding skills. The head and scales are made in leather mosaic: thousands of finely hand-cut multicoloured leather fragments are applied one by one to faithfully reproduce the original pattern. The domed eye of the dinosaur, visible on both sides of the cover, is made of cabochoncut Grand Feu enamel.

Finally, the jaw and tongue are crafted in leather marquetry: fine tesserae are cut from various coloured leathers, previously thinned to just 0.5 mm, before being juxtaposed on the enamel base. Setting the final touch to this miniaturised leather artwork, a matt green alligator leather cord-strap is secured to the rectangular stirrup and accentuates the overall design.

TECHNICAL DETAILS
One-of-a-kind creation

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Hermès H1924 movement
Mechanical hand-wound, crafted in Switzerland
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 8.89mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon

CASE
Shape/size: Round, 48 mm in diameter
Material: White gold case and cover
Watch glass: Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback
Caseback engraved with the inscription “Pièce unique”
Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL
White enamel on a white gold base

COVER
«Aaaaargh» marquetry and leather mosaic motif
Grand Feu enamel eye

LEATHER CORD-STRAP
Medium – green alligator leather

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © David Marchon for Hermès

Hermès Arceau Awooooo Watch

When you cry ‘wolf ’, it appears on the dial of the new Arceau Awooooo ! watch. Crafted in enamel, the silver-furred animal stands out against a starstudded backdrop featuring a slim moon crescent. This miniature scene is beautifully framed by a white gold case and a matte graphite alligator strap.

A new character in the bestiary designed by Alice Shirley, the Arceau watch now calls “Awooooo!” with its motif initially created for a line of men’s scarves. The fascinating yet feared white wolf of myths and fairy stories emerges from the woods, gloriously wild and depicted in miniature on an enamel-painted dial.

In reproducing the refined original design, the wolf and its star-studded background spring to life by dint of meticulous workmanship. The artisan crafts both sides of the transparent white enamel dial, then carefully polishes it to achieve a perfectly smooth surface. The outlines of the motif are then traced and, using an extremely fine brush, various enamel powders are applied mixed with natural oils. Then come several successive stages of coatings, interspersed with drying and firing in the oven, before the painting takes shape in all its magnificent realism.

Using a graphic style and subtle shades of grey, the animal is shown in its natural, essentially nocturnal way of life. A starry night and a slim moon crescent also evoke the cycle of nature, within which the predator plays an essential role. The overall tone matches the white gold case, whose round shape topped by stirrup-shaped lugs houses a Manufacture Hermès movement.

Fitted with a matte graphite alligator strap, its classic design imagined 40 years ago by Henri d’Origny accentuates the elegance of this eight-piece limited edition.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Numbered limited edition of 8
DIAL
White gold base enamelled using the miniature painting technique.
Awooooo motif from a Hermès scarf designed by the artist Alice Shirley
CASE
Round, 41 mm in diameter in 750 white gold (≈ 52 g)
Anti-glare sapphire crystal and case-back / Water-resistant to 3 bar
21 mm interhorn width
STRAP
Matte graphite alligator with a 750 white gold pin buckle (≈ 5.34 g), 17 mm
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement/ Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made
26 mm in diameter, 3.7 mm thick / 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
50-hour power reserve / Circular-grained and snailed mainplate
Bridges and oscillating weight satin-brushed and adorned with a sprinkling of Hs,
Hermès Paris engraving.
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès / David Marchon