Sandra‘s Closet

«An important part of my life designing installations, spaces and experiences is actually spent putting out fires! I thought it was time to celebrate that fire…and help put the Art World on fire too! So I chose to show only burnt art and art relating to fire from the fantastic Gmurzynska collection, and create for these an environment that is pop and thematic, inspired by the beautiful look of fire stations, as a boy dreaming of them, pop and joyful, yet modern, minimal and fairly neutral, to enhance the viewing of such important art. It is made of traditional industrial materials, lacquered diamond steel plates and fire extinguishers, but reinterpreted to serve their new purpose in a luxurious manner.» Alexandre de Betak

Having presented a Karl Lagerfeld designed booth in 2011 at FIAC, Galerie Gmurzynska – the leading international art gallery specializing in masterpieces of both classic modern and post-war art – is returning to the fair with a visionary installation by French designer, scenographer and creative director Alexandre de Betak, who is mostly known for his involvement in the production of Victoria’s Secret shows, which he has producing and choreographing for many years.

Sketch by Karl Lagerfeld, FIAC 2011, Galerie Gmurzynska’s booth design

2003 marked de Betak’s debut in design, when he created an acrylic glass bookshelf and a leather bench with French design house Domeau & Perez. Moreover, he is known for various collaborations with important museums, among others the MOCA in Los Angeles and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

Preparatory rendering by Alexandre de Betak, FIAC 2018

Since its discovery, fire has been the propelling force of innovation, civilization and ultimately cultural advancement. Artists throughout the history of art have been drawn to its ethereal power to destroy, create, cleanse and illuminate.

Roberto Matta, Les Fumoïsses, 1973

The survey exhibition «On Fire» will include a diverse list of artists using or depicting fire in all forms throughout the 20th Century, from Joan Miró to Otto Piene, Yves Klein, Alberto Burri, Roberto Matta up to Tom Wesselmann and others. A booklet with an introduction by Germano Celant will be accompanying the exhibition.

Mathias Rastorfer at the booth with Alexandre de Betak

Isabelle Bscher at the opening party with Francesco Vezzoli

On Wednesday evening, the opening party of the gallery took place next to the Seine with a huge fire installation by Alexandre de Betak. The gallery owners Isabelle Bscher, Krystyna Gmurzynska and Mathias Rastorfer and star designer Alexandre de Betak welcomed actor Vincent Cassel, not only since his role as Vincent van Gogh in «Loving Vincent», an art fanatic, Parisian model and author Caroline de Maigret, star photographer Ellen von Unwerth, hotel guru André Balazs and actor and artist André Saraiva, the u.a. also designed for Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Tiffany and Converse, the Italian concept artist and filmmaker («Multimedia Popartist»), Francesco Vezzoli and Michel Gaubert, the best sound designer in the fashion world with clients such as Gucci, Fendi, Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, and Chanel.

Galerie Gmurzynska @ FIAC: OCTOBER 18 – 21, 2018 Booth 0.C24
When the world of fashion meets the world of art, there is fire…

LoL, Sandra

André Balazs and André Saraiva

Ellen von Unwerth

Vincent Cassel

Photos: Courtesy of Galerie Gmurzysnka

FOULARDS D’ARTISTES III NEW CREATIVE COLLABORATIONS FOR S/S 2014

This summer, Louis Vuitton continues its world tour of the vibrant street art scene by inviting three new artists from three different continents to collaborate on its collections of textile. The artists of this third season are André Saraiva, famed for his jaunty ‘Mr. A’ character who inhabits the walls of Paris, American Kenny Scharf, and INTI from Chile.

ANDRÉ SARAIVA
For André Saraiva, his studio drop cloth was the inspiration for the background of his interpretation of Louis Vuitton’s Monogram shawl. Once he had translated his paint spatters to the luxurious silk and wool wrap, it became a natural habitat for ‘Mr. A’, the artist’s signature blue figure with asymmetrical eyes.

KENNY SCHARF
Californian Kenny Scharf, a remarkable figure in the worlds of painting, sculpture and performance, describes himself as a pop-surrealist artist whose guiding principle is to reach out beyond the elitist boundaries of fine art and to connect to popular culture. He has covered Louis Vuitton’s giant silk crepe square with a colorful collage of astronomic motifs and symbols of pop culture on a blurred psychedelic background.

INTI
True to his name, derived from the Inca sun god, INTI is inspired by ancestral Andean culture, which he transcribes in brightly colored, monumental works. He revisits the giant square with a sun motif referencing the image of ‘Wiracocha’, god of TIWANAKU culture, one of the most important Inca deities. Infused with warm shades of gold and orange, the design is bordered in red with a pattern of ancient symbols surrounding the Louis Vuitton signature.

Alongside these artistic collaborations, Louis Vuitton introduces further new designs for S/S 2014.

Two are variations on the iconic leopard print created for Louis Vuitton by the artist Stephen Sprouse: the Leopard Spray giant silk crepe square combines leopard spots with a spray-paint motif in vibrant fuchsia or pimento,…

… while the Leopard Pop stole, available in coral or pimento, presents a delicate arty gradation of shades.

The Monogram Rayures shawl juxtaposes faded denim-style stripes with lines of brighter coral or pimento,…

… while the Papillon silk square is woven with a subtle tone-on-tone Monogram pattern. Its generous size and array of colors, including beige, black, fuchsia, orange and violet, make it a stylish and versatile choice all year round.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Daniele Cavalli with me, Photo: Olivier Zahm

Meet the Man of the Year: Daniele Cavalli. The 25-year-old son of fashion designer Roberto Cavalli who is in charge for the Italian house’s men’s line, is not only an extremly interesting person, but also highly intelligent, down to earth, beautiful from the inside and outside, with a wonderful vision of life. I met with him recently in Milan and he told me some very interesting things, enjoy the interview.

After the huge success of your S/S 2012 presentation, which inspiration do you have for your next menswear F/W 2012 collection?

It will be an evolution, not a revolution, but totally different in the concept. The last two collections I did were connected with the same concept made in different ways. This is going to change for F/W 2012.

Summer gave me lots of inspirations. I turned off the phone and went to Africa. I started in Morocco and from there through the Sahara, where I met pythons and scorpios.
We went with camels, which was pretty adventurous. If something bites you, you die. You don’t have time to go to the hospital. We, my friend and I, travelled with Tuaregs. I love the nature and the adventure. And if you are respectful to death, nothing happens.

In the desert, you can’t have a fire. Fire would help you to scare away the animals. The gas lights we had were even worse as they attract the animals. At one point, I stood up, looked under my matress and found five scorpios. The Turag took a piece of a dry plant, and killed them like with it. Done! You have to know nature to survive. We slept in the dunes, totally covered because of the wind and the sand.

I know that you love music. Did you bring an instrument to the desert?

I brought a small guitar, a sort of mandolin.

What do you think about the relaunch of the Just Cavalli brand, of the S/S 2012 collection?

I liked the Just Cavalli show, strong and a very good way to relaunch the brand.

Do you prefer the main line Roberto Cavalli or Just Cavalli?

It depends on the show. The S/S 2012 Just Cavalli show was really good and it is great to see that the Just Cavalli brand is coming back. It is perfectly coordinating with the soul of the brand.

How would you dress women? Sexy like your father or more covered?

Both ways. I have my own vision of women. It would be really smart, chic and elegant. But believe me, I am telling you the truth,  I have never really thought about it. I think that I would do it the same as for the men, I would work on the tailoring, on the colours, on the  fabrics, always in a very chic way.

Yes, I would cover, but in the right way. I like to imagine. I love the dream. When the things are too obvious, it is less tempting. As a man, I like to use my imagination.

Have you studied fashion design?

I am lucky that I didn’t do it. I learnt everything from scratch.

Your father is Italian, your mother Austrian. What are you, more Italian or more Austrian?

I am really Italian, I am not Austrian. Actually, I am Florentine. My hometown is a historical, charming city, that sees the future, but keeps its treasure. Gardens, flowers, nature… Florence is a Rennaissance city. There is also something really dark. It is the contrast. My dark side is my blues side, meaning the music. I always like to work with opposite things and make them happen. Princess meets the bohemian women for example. I do it with everything in my life. The fusion is the most interesting part.

How is your German doing? Does your mum speak German with you?

No, my German is bad and whenever I saw my grandparents in Austria, it was pretty tough to understand them.

Was it a curse or a blessing to be Roberto Cavalli’s son?

Of course, a blessing! When I grew up, my father wasn’t popular at all. He was a pirate of the sea. We were riding in the summer times on small boots and he was protecting his family in the cabin when the weather and the waves were getting too tough. I like to see him like that. He is my father. The rest is part of the game.

Do all your siblings work in the company?
(Roberto Cavalli has two kids, Cristiana and Tommaso, from a previous marriage and three children, Rachele, Daniele and Robin with his wife Eva.)

My first sister Cristiana has a baby now and enjoys being a mom. She works just a little. My brother Tommaso takes care of the vineyards and trains the horses. Rachele designs the bags and has a little baby, too. My youngest brother Robin is still very young.

Would you like to move to another city? Or do you prefer staying in Florence?

Not to a big city like New York City. As for me, the horizon is so important, meaning it metaphorically, as a strong point of view. To live in a big city, it is always hard to see the horizon.

I am attracted to Asia. Moving for me would have more the impression of escaping. Maybe a girl would make me move (smiles).

Are you a heartbreaker?

Always, I live my life to break my heart. To be conscious, I fall in love with everything. What scares me in Milan sometimes is the following: I was at a friend’s party, where I said  hello to a lot of people. So many of them were asking me if I will be in Paris next week. And I was thinking why do they do that? People are working for Milan fashion week all year, and then they don’t even enjoy it because they are thinking already of the next thing. People are not appreciating what is in front of them. Florence saved me from such an attitude! I love Rome as well!

Do you like to do sports?

I was a sporty person. Until I was eigtheen, I was a soccer player, and I was a pretty good one. One day, I just put my shoes on the hook and stopped.
But I like sports. Your mind and your sould can only be powerful in a healthy body.

How do you see yourself in 25 years?

In the music industry. That is my biggest dream! I will do something important for myself in the music industry. I am ambitious. A great album would be amazing, producing, doing it by myself, but just if I am convinced of it. If I opened a music label, it wouldn’t be connected with the Cavalli universe, it would be mine.

Thank you, Daniele!

The photos are taken by André Saraiva for l’Offciel Hommes September 2011. The editorial is called “After Hours” and shows Daniele Cavalli in is his own collection of  S/S 2012. Tonight he will receive the GQ Man of the Year Award in Berlin and I am sure that for him there will be so much more to come…

LoL, Sandra