Sandra‘s Closet

Editors of Vogue from around the world converge today in Tokyo for a very special Fashion’s Night Out event in a bid to boost spirits and sales following the earthquake and tsunami which devastated Japan earlier this year.

For the first time Vogue editors from all its magazines across the world joined forces for Fashion’s Night Out Japan. Led by American Vogue Editor Anna Wintour, who conceived of Fashion’s Night Out in the midst of the 2009 economic crisis, the editors represent the 18 countries where Vogue is published.

On the photo: Host editor, Mitsuko Watanabe, Editor of Japanese Vogue; Anna Wintour, Editor of American Vogue; Franca Sozzani, Editor of Italian Vogue; Alexandra Shulman, Editor of British Vogue; Emmanuelle Alt, Editor of French Vogue; Angelica Cheung, Editor of Vogue China; Christiane Arp, Editor of German Vogue; Yolanda Sacristan, Editor of Spanish Vogue; Viktoria Davydova, Editor of Vogue Russia; Kirstie Clements, Editor of Australian Vogue; Eva Hughes, Editor of Mexican and Latin American Vogue; Paula Mateus, Editor of Portuguese Vogue; Myung Hee Lee, Editor of Vogue Korea; Seda Domanic, Editor of Vogue Turkey; Rosalie Huang, Editor at Large of Vogue Taiwan: Anaita Adajania, Acting Editor of Indian Vogue, and Anna Harvey, Vice President and Editorial Director of Conde Nast New Markets, who will represent Vogue Brazil and Greek Vogue.

Jonathan Newhouse, Chairman of Condé Nast International, said, “The presence of all the Vogue editors in Tokyo underscores Condé Nast’s deep commitment to this market. Japan is a key market for the fashion industry, and we will give it the maximum support possible as the country recovers.”
Anna Wintour commented, “Japan is a major player in the global fashion community, both as supports and wonderful contributors to it. The country’s educated consumers and its designers – from supremely inventive established names such as Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe, to exciting new labels such as Sacai – invigorate our world. We are thrilled to support and celebrate Japan’s far-reaching influence and creativity with a very special Fashion’s Night Out in Tokyo.”

Asia is the future…

LoL, Sandra

Photo: Frederic Aranda for Vogue

Last Sunday, Albert Kriemler presented his Akris S/S 2012 runway show during Paris Fashion Week and surprised us with some amazing prints which have become his signature.
Ladies, start your engines!

Like Miuccia Prada, the designer got turned on by cars this season and seeked inspiration from John Frankenheimer’s 1966 film Grand Prix, set in Monaco.

One print is a shot of the Hotel de l’Hermitage at Monte Carlo on a racing day with people watching the event from the balcony:

This dress would be the perfect look for Princess Charlene next May at the Monaco Grand Prix Formula 1 race, don’t you think? The princess, who has been seen many times in Akris, sat front row at the show and I am pretty sure that she was kind of Albert Kriemler’s muse for this collection.

Anna Wintour, Peter Kriemler and Princess Charlene front row at the Akris S/S 2012 show.

Haven’t seen Anna that happy in a long time…she must have really liked the collection.
Princess Charlene, Albert Kriemler and Anna Wintour.

Sport is an important trend for next summer and Akris offers some clean and crisp choices. But my favourite part of this collection is definitely the motor sports section!

Enjoy the looks! For my Zurich based readers, Gassmann carries a large selection of Akris.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Akris

„When I am doing a little California dreamin’, I am in a beautifully appointed Mid-century home, like the Kaufmann house in Palm Springs, by Richard Neutra. The clean minimal interior, the wide open desert landscape, the informality of living in nature yet also sheltered in rational and soul warming architecture; that is my mind wandering to a place of salubrious comfort. But it’s not all strict lines and raw space. Somewhere, there is Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack crooning by the piano and Angie Dickenson is lounging by a crystal blue pool. Mid-century louche and luxury, in my dreams.“

– Derek Lam

Last Sunday in New York was a very touching day marking the 10-year anniversary of the attacks on the World Trade Center. While the city was filled with ceremonies commemorating this tragic event, the fashion world was looking ahead.

Derek Lam showed his S/S 2012 collection that day and went from East Coast to West Coast for inspiration. The designer, who had grown up in California, came up with a crisp, sharp tailored look. Very American, very preppy with a slight retro touch. The prints added a resort feeling. One of my favourites was the white linen trench coat with the shiny black leather trim. I am sure that this collection will be loved especially by business women all around the world. Anna Wintour seemed to like it a lot, but see for yourselves…

I was invited to go backstage before the show and enjoyed exploring the clothes in advance. Please stay tuned as I interviewed Tom Pecheux, Estée Lauder’s Creative Director for Makeup, who had created the makeup look for Derek Lam’s S/S 2012 show. I have got some beautiful behind the scenes shots of which some are already included here. Hope that will like it.

By the way, I spotted some German celebrities front row. Don’t miss the end of this post to see who was there!

LoL, Sandra

Derek Lam

Stephanie zu Guttenberg in a red Prada dress

Lilly & Boris Becker

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

This was the news of today and it is the end of an era – Carine Roitfeld, 56, leaves Vogue Paris. After ten years of Editor in Chief, she wants to concentrate on personal projects.

Under her direction, Vogue Paris received record levels of circulation, advertising und editorial success.

Carine was the woman widely tipped to take over from Anna Wintour at the fashion magazine’s flagship US title. If Condé Nast had announced this today, I would have been less surprised than hearing about her decision to step down.

The French former model will leave the magazine in the end of January, an announcement about her replacement will be made in the coming weeks. Figaro’s Virginie Mouzat name is floating here and there…

Carine, you will be missed!

LoL, Sandra

Yesterday, Zurich’s best shoe shop Lovers Lane hosted a trunk show to present the gorgeous creations of Nicholas Kirkwood. The British designer is the biggest name in shoes today, known for his craftsmanship and innovative designs, that are instantly recognisable. He also has a lot of celeb fans, among them Sarah Jessica Parker who wore his extravagant designs all the way through the Sex and the City 2 promotions.
The famed footman came extra to the Swiss city for the event last night and I was very lucky to do an extensive interview with him before he left for New York for a meeting with Anna Wintour this morning.

 

You were born in Germany. Do you speak any German?

No, I was just born there because my Dad was living in Münster at that time.

Being here in Zurich today to present your amazing creations, do you have a vision of the typical Swiss woman?

I came to Switzerland quite a lot when I was younger for my ski holidays. We were always staying at the same hotel that was run by lady who was very firm, and very strict, you could never do something wrong.  When we were running around, she would say no-no.

So tonight I am looking forward to meeting another type of Swiss ladies and see how my customers here look like.

Which woman do you have in mind when creating your shoes in general?

One season is more feminine, the other more angular. It is quite open. Therefore I like to do events like tonight. Seeing the shops I sell to and  meeting the women’s wishes. Every market is different. You have to start somewhere.

You logded with the late Isabella Blow?  Has her eccentric style influenced your work?

She was very encouraging. Any new idea, any of her thoughts would make a good idea. And of course, knowing her was amazing, her inspiration and unique character.

Is there a celeb woman that you would love to dress in your shoes that does not wear them yet?

A very interesting question. Let me think. If I was walking in the streets and my cell phone would be ringing and somebody would be asking me for shoes, who would shock me the most? Mmh, Madonna, no… Now I know. Imelda Marcos! I just want her to have my shoes even if she probably can’t wear them anymore.

Lovers Lane sells other brands as well. Which one do you like the best?

I love very much what Charlotte Olympia does. A wonderful girl, very beautiful. I think we sometimes have the same customer, it is a very close but friendly competition.

I know that you are not a big fan of kitten heels. So how did you like this season’s shoe trend? Will we see one day a Kirkwood kitten heel?

I kind of did a kitten heel, but it was very strange looking. There is more a hype, than a reality to it. A lot of people want it to be a trend, are pushing it to be a trend.
The shoes might be not as high as they were in the last few seasons and I might be completely wrong but I just do not see this happen.

You have a signature look that is instantly recognisable . I truly admire that, especially with all the different collaborations you do, like for example Rodarte, Erdem, Peter Pilotto. Now, you are the new creative director for Pollini. You seem to be an unlikely fit for the traditional house. Do you have a carte blanche? How much freedom do you get in creating for other designers?

Pollini is a big challenge and I like it. I have a lot of work and I do not sleep much.

The best collaborations come out of working together. I’d hate it to be just told „do what you want“. The other party tries to bring the most into it. So the final product is the result of both rather than being too heavily weighted on one side or the other.

How did the pop-up e-commerce shop go? (The runway shoes he created for Peter Pilotto and Erdem were available for just a few days during London Fashion week.)
Would you do it again?

I think we will do it again. It was a great experiment.
In some ways it is the future. Probably sad to say but that is the way things are going to go and we like to keep ahead of the game. Burberry did it with clothes. I might be wrong, but with shoes we were the first.
Fashion is so quick. Something can seem old before it even hits the shops.

Will there be a Nicholas Kirkwood online shop soon? Do you dream of your own stores?

Yes, but we are not there yet.

In 2009, you created jelwery in collaboration with Swarovski? Will we see more Kirkwood in the future? For example handbags, menswear and more?

Men’s shoes, handbags, jewlery and sunglasses, yes! Soon…

Do you like things to be matchy-matchy? Like matching your bag to your shoes?

No, hate it. Similiar colour that is o.k..

Experimenting with heel shapes, negative spaces and shoe shapes might be pretty expensive. Do you have some base models you always start working with?

I try to always do something new. As soon as I have finished the collection, I start over again. I re-start and also keep something. Partly it is mostly somewhere close of what I have just done.  Fashion is too quick to always change.

I read once that you do not like fastenings and excess, do you still agree with that? Has your focus changed or developed during the last years?

No, it is not that I do not like it. There is sometimes a need to have a buckle and sometimes I try to think of other solutions than a buckle. But it is also nice to have those elements in there. When you are at a young stage, you start out on one tune.

Now, I am trying to expand the range, become more obedient to different types of customers, to become more of a shoe brand not just a niche for a small community.
Those details will become part of the collection more and more. There will always be my signature in it, but probably just not so in your face.

Is there a creation that you find horrible today?

Oh yes, especially a shoe that comes out crooked. I normally try to hide and burn it without anybody seeing the disaster.

Did you ever see a woman wearing your shoes and you did not like what you saw?

Sometimes, when I see somebody wearing my shoes completely beaten up. But on the other way, it is a sign that she very much loved them.

I hate it if they are wearing the wrong size and the toes are hanging out.

Have a you ever made a shoe in which it was impossible to stand or walk?

Yes, especially for photo shoots. You could stand in them for 10 seconds and that was it.

The Alice in Wonderland shoes that I made for Printemps in Paris, you could probably not walk in them because of the little hanging porcelaine cups.

Do you have a favourite of your designs?

In some ways I am never satiesfied with anything. Sometimes I am very happy with the way things come out. But once the shoe is made, I am over it. I have seen the process for so long, it gets kind of boring after a while.

It is like recording an album. You are listening to the same thing for such a long time, that by the time it is finished, you can’t stand it.

Your shoes melt contemporary art and fashion? Best example is the upcoming Keith Haring collection. Do you see yourself as an artist?

No, not at all. I am more of a product designer. I studied fine arts at St. Martins. I am a big fan of art. It is a completely other thing. You do not replace it so easily like a piece of fashion. It has more of a longevity to it. There are similiarities to it like the way  people get excited.

I feel a little like the art world looks kind of down on the fashion world, a little bit of a high brow.

Could you imagine to do a collaboration with H&M? Or to create a more budget-friendly second line?

Not yet. I have been approached by similiar kind of things. I always like to promote the quality manufacturing and made in Italy. That is what I sort of believe in. It is different with the ready-to-wear. Regarding footwear, you will really notice a cheap pair of shoes . I don’t want to say that I will never do it. (Laughs…) I will wait until I can make a hell out of money out of it for a one-time-thing. And make a big party after.

I mean, there are a lot of people out there, not everything has to be accessible to everybody.

I don’t say that I will never,  there is just no need at the moment unless I will be forced by a powerful editor who says you have to.

Like the one you are seeing tomorrow (Anna Wintour)?

Laughs again. No, not her.

I hope that you have liked the interview. I had a blast talking to Nicholas as he is such a sweet guy. The party at Lovers Lane was really great. I took some photos for you to get an impression.

And gentlemen, sometimes it is worth going shoe-shopping with your wifes or girlfriends. There might be a little treat for you, too.

LoL, Sandra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 2010 CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) paid tribute to its winners and honorees last night in New York at the Lincoln Center. The award could be compared to the Oscars in fashion. Many celebrities, designers, models and stylists attented the event, dressed up beautifully. A real fashionable crowd.

The most important prize was won by Marc Jacobs, named to be the Womenswear Designer of the Year. Menswear went to Rag & Bone designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright and the Accessory section was covered by Alexis Bittar.

Sarah Jessica Parker in Alexander McQueen honoured the late designer for his indelible contribution to international fashion. Anna Wintour, Editor in Chief of US Vogue, handed the Geoffrey Been Lifetime Achievement Award to Michael Kors who showed up with Gwyneth Paltrow in one of his designs. Christopher Bailey for Burberry was recognized with this year`s International Award.

The three Swarovski Awards for emerging talents were given to Jason Wu, Richard Chai and Alexander Wang. This is not only a trophy. The recipients will receive generous financial support from the company. Let`s keep an eye on those rising stars!

LoL, Sandra