Sandra‘s Closet

Today more coming up from Arles as on May 30th, 2018, Gucci showed its Cruise 2019 women’s and men’s show by Alessandro Michele also there. Revealed in an evocative setting of the ancient site of Les Alyscamps, a UNESCO World Heritage site with one of the world’s most renowned Roman necropoleis, which provided a remarkable backdrop for this beautiful collection. This followed Alessandro’s previous Cruise presentations that have taken place in other culturally significant locations, including the DIA-Art Foundation in New York City, the Cloisters at Westminster Abbey in London and the Palatina Gallery in Florence’s Palazzo Pitti.

Les Alyscamps in Arles

Here are some facts about Arles which is surprisingly the largest municipality in France in terms of surface, it is located on the Mediterranean coast, in Provence, between Marseille and Montpellier. Thanks to its rich history spanning 2500 years, Arles is inscribed on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1981 for its roman monuments.

Arles

Positioned on the Rhone delta, Arles benefits from the astonishing landscape of Camargue, considered one of Europe’s most important natural areas. Arles inspired numerous artists, such as Vincent Van Gogh and Pablo Picasso. Fashion designers Louis Féraud and Christian Lacroix (please see this week’s post here) have arlesian origins, consequently culture and creation are economic drivers such as: the publishing house Actes Sud, the photography festival Les Rencontres d’Arles and LUMA Arles, who is currently building a cultural center with architects Frank Gehry and Annabelle Selldorf, in charge of the renovation of the old industrial buildings. For further information about Arles visit www.ville-arles.fr.

Impressions of the Gucci Cruise 2019 show

The city of Arles, also consistently involved in cultural initiatives, was happy to collaborate with a luxury brand such as Gucci. This was the first time that the ancient site of Alyscampshas hosted an event of this caliber. Indeed, one could imagine no better publicity for the city, which is enjoying a renaissance, thanks in large part to Swiss art patron Maja Hoffmann, who was also among the guests at the show along with Christian Lacroix.

Hoffmann has enlisted Canadian-born architect Frank Gehry to build a 185-foot tower that will be the center point of her Luma art foundation, opened in 2013. The sprawling site, with an estimated cost of 150 million euros, also encompasses abandoned rail yards that have been renovated and now house exhibitions. The heir of the pharmaceutical giant Roche has invested extensively in the city, renovating two local hotels, the Hôtel d’Arlatan and the Hôtel du Cloître, and also owns the Michelin-starred organic restaurant La Chassagnette in the neighboring Camargue region.

Please find below some of the best looks from Gucci’s Cruise 2019 collection, for which creative director Alessandro Michele was obviously «fascinated by the idea of death». A haunted runway with lots of cross necklaces, Victorian references, velvet capes, neon lace tights, goth accents, and prints galore. Gucci at its best!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci

While visiting Arles yesterday, I passed by a Christian Lacroix store (photo at the end of this post) which immediately caught my eye as I had completely forgotten about the fashion house after it had been sold by LVMH to duty-free retailer Falic Fashion Group in 2005.

Visiting Arles yesterday – an inspiration for today’s post.

I had been a big fan of flamboyant Lacroix’s designs and even got married in one of his couture dresses. Personally speaking, when Christian opened his Maison, I started actively being interested in fashion and his creations inspired me a lot of what I do today.

The story of Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix was born in Arles, Bouches-du-Rhône in Southern France. At a young age he began already sketching historical costumes and fashions. In April 1987, his dream came true and he founded his own fashion house in a private mansion at 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, in the heart of Paris. The House of Christian Lacroix was created by the Arlesian couturier and press agent Jean-Jacques Picart, with support from Bernard Arnault. Word quickly spread throughout Paris and Christian Lacroix’s name was on everyone’s lips.

A look from Lacroix’s F/W 1987 haute couture collection.

The following 26 July, Christian Lacroix unveiled his first Haute Couture collection for F/W 1987. This first collection was a radiant, opulent, virtuosic homage to the couturier’s roots; each look was infused with Mediterranean influences. The designer revisited traditional Arlesian outfits, drawing inspiration from the toreador’s cape. He highlighted southern France’s beauty, from the Camargue to Provence, in this 60-piece collection.

This first flamboyant fashion show was wildly successful, blowing the dust off the subdued world of 1980s high fashion and turning Parisian fashion of the day on its head. It was a departure from the minimalistic look of the influential Japanese designers en vogue at that time.

Christian Lacroix F/W 2004 Haute Couture collection

At a time when fashion was focused on simplicity, Christian Lacroix chose exuberance. When black became the standard, he opted for blood red, fuchsia pink and bright yellow.

With each new collection, Christian Lacroix designed pieces that combined unusual materials and colours, adorning looks with luxurious baroque touches. He brought back touches of folklore, history and theatre, infusing them with elegance and sophistication.

Very «Like a Prayer»: Anna Wintour chose for her first Vogue cover a Christian Lacroix couture jacket combined with a pair of jeans. It was photographed by Peter Lindbergh and  featured Israeli Model Michaela Bercu – US Vogue Nov 1988

Anna Wintour chose a Christian Lacroix Haute Couture jacket with a simple pair of jeans for her first American Vogue cover, photographed by Peter Lindberg in 1988. This look broke all the high fashion rules, pushing it into a younger and more liberated future.

After a spectacular debut, the Lacroix phenomenon spread as if propelled by the Mistral wind, and was soon featured prominently in all the most prestigious fashion magazines around the world.

Shalom Harlow in Christian Lacroix Haute Couture photographed by Bruce Weber for Vogue US, March 1995.

Throughout the 1990s, the brand continued to grow, diversifying its portfolio with household linen, tableware and more. This diversification continued to pick up speed in the following decade.

Between 2002-2005, Lacroix served also as the Creative Director for the Italian fashion house Emilio Pucci. He left on agreeable terms as he and the house believed that since he had other pursuits, it would be unfair to the house to not put in the energy required for future collections along with his other work.

Ad Campaign F/W 1997 featuring Karen Elson photographed by Paolo Roversi

In 2005, LVMH sold the House to its current owners, the Falic family, giving it new momentum as it explored other niches while continuing the House’s previous activities. In 2009, the fashion house put the business into administration and laid off all but 12 workers. Lacroix’s F/W 2009 Haute Couture was privately financed by Lacroix and each model was paid €50.

Final finale: Christian Lacroix and Vlada Roslyakova – Haute Couture F/W 2009

As Vogue editor Sarah Mower wrote: «It was one of the most poignant and emotionally fraught haute couture shows ever: a collection produced on a shoestring at the last minute, and only made possible by the collective will and donated time and skills of the seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners, and shoemakers loyal to Christian Lacroix.»

«I didn’t want to cry,» said Lacroix «I want to continue, maybe in a different way, with a small atelier. What I really care about is the women who do this.» Lacroix said about his last Haute Couture collection. Throughout its history, the house never turned a profit and reported a €10 million loss in 2008.

When Christian Lacroix left his position as the House’s Artistic Director in late 2009, Sacha Walckhoff, who had worked at the House since 1992, was named Creative Director. Sacha continued the House’s transformation alongside President Nicolas Topiol, extending the creative focus to decoration and lifestyle collections.

Lacroix in 2018: Designing for Desigual

Lacroix, himself, started collaborating in 2011 with the Barcelona-based clothing brand Desigual. This year, he will launch 5 mini collections for the house.

Lacroix x Nymphenburg

He also collaborated with Nymphenburg for a limited edition collection of design objects.

Interior design by Christian Lacroix: Hotel Le Bellechasse in Paris 

Moreover, Christian Lacroix has completed interior design work at several landmark hotels, including the Hotel Le Petit Moulin in Spring, 2005; the Hotel Bellechasse, right in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Paris), in 2007 (a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World); and in 2010 Le Notre Dame hotel just a step from the cathedral Notre-Dame-de-Paris.

The newest hotel design project by Lacroix: Julius Caesar in Arles.

In 2014, formerly a 17th century Carmelite Convent, Julius Caesar in Arles opened its doors as a boutique hotel featuring décor designed by Christian Lacroix.

The Christian Lacroix store in Arles.

Lacroix without Lacroix… the House’s Studio still produces collections in men’s fashion, accessories (scarves, sunglasses, handbags, jewellery, watches and mobile phone accessories) and lifestyle (fabrics, wallpapers, cushions, rugs, tableware, candles and stationery). But unfortunately no women’s fashion… but to be honest that is also hard to imagine without Lacroix being there himself!

Lacroix, Sweetie, Lacroix! Your are a genius…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Christian Lacroix, via Vogue and © Sandra Bauknecht