Yesterday, I hosted a live talk on zoom with MATCHESFASHION and their Chief Commercial Officer Elizabeth von der Goltz about the newest trends, upcoming designers and must-have pieces available on the website.
I put together a summary of last night with all details and shopable links included. Just click on the highlighted text to be transferred directly. Enjoy!
NEW DESIGNERS
Kenneth Ize made his Paris Fashion Week debut for F/W 2020, showcasing a tribute to the beauty of West African artisanship. He initially launched his eponymous label at Lagos Fashion Week in 2013, then took a two-year hiatus to study at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna under the guidance of Hussein Chalayan; the experimental ethos of whom influences his exuberant use of colour. Now a shortlisted designer for the 2019 LVMH prize, Ize is recognised for his vibrant tailoring and casual separates, rendered in handwoven Yoruban aso-oke fabric and partnered with Austrian lace.
Bogotá-born Kika Vargas launched her eponymous label in 2010, fulfilling a lifelong dream inspired by childhood memories of watching her mother dress up. The designer studied fine art and fashion design respectively at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and Marangoni Fashion Institute in Milan, subsequently going on to work at Missoni, which she credits for igniting her love of colour. Ready-to-wear pieces are crafted locally in Colombia – think voluminous midi dresses with romantic ruffles and tiers alongside playful printed co-ords.
Nigerian designer Lisa Folawiyo started her own fashion line in 2005 after purchasing 12 yards of Ankara textiles, batik-inspired wax-resist fabrics adopted throughout West Africa, and asking a local seamstress to create two skirts that she decorated herself. 15 years on, she’s the winner of the 2012 Africa Fashion Award and was included in the Business of Fashion’s 2015 BOF500 list. Her ready-to-wear collection fuses vibrant traditional patterns with contemporary silhouettes that are hand-finished by expert craftspeople – it takes approximately 240 hours to embellish a single garment with the label’s signature beads, sequins and crystals.
Gul Agis trained at the Marangoni Fashion Institute and Politecnico di Design in Milan and honed her skills in luxury fashion consultancy before launching Lug Von Siga, an anagram of her name, in 2010. Drawing influence from the storied heritage of her native Turkey, the designer explores womenswear through a contemporary lens, uniting charming design tropes with sophisticated colours to create elegant wardrobe staples with an inherently feminine spirit. Expect dresses, blouses and swimwear rendered in crisp cotton and finished with voluminous ruffles.
Named after and inspired by the second side of a vinyl record, B Sides celebrates the imperfect and was built on founders Claire Lampert and Stacy Daily’s love of vintage jeans. The duo sources rare styles ranging anywhere from cowboys in Colorado to industrial rag houses, then re-work the material into modern silhouettes. New denim is woven by 19th-century family-run mills in Georgia and North Carolina, which stays true to the label’s effortlessly retro aesthetic. Expect flattering and timeless cuts that are given a playful twist through washes, distressing and upcycled patchwork.
Patric DiCaprio, Claire Sullivan and Bryn Taubensee celebrate the eccentric and unexpected with their New York-based label Vaquera, founded in 2013 and named in reference to DiCaprio’s nickname, the Spanish word for ‘cowgirl’. Collections explore the notion of ‘making fashion fan fiction’, subverting conventional sartorial codes and exploring the drama of exaggerated texture, oversized cuts and reworked wardrobe staples with innovative fabric pairings. Expect shirting, jeans, T-shirts and jackets with graphic accents and whimsical trims.
Thakoon Panichgul launched multi-discipline platform HommeGirls in 2019 after a hiatus from the fashion industry, having paused his eponymous label two years earlier. The label champions the sophistication of androgynous dressing, originally founded as a specialist zine ‘dedicated to women who shop the men’s department’, later expanding to a collection of wardrobe staples inspired by the personal style of Katherine Hepburn, Grace Coddington and Brana Wolf. Expect oversized shirting, relaxed underpinnings and boxer shorts with cropped hems and raw edges.
Founded in 2014 by husband and wife duo Elin Kling and Karl Lindman, Stockholm-based label Totême offers refined pieces ideal for creating pared-back contemporary uniforms. Its minimalist aesthetic is composed of muted hues, fluid silhouettes and flattering loose proportions, harmonising to create considered ready-to-wear pieces which form the backbone of edited wardrobes. Expect borrowed-from-the-boys T-shirts, oversized coats and sweeping dresses in neutral colour palettes that will bring an understated yet elevated mood to weekday ensembles. And most importantly the most comfortable yet stylish footwear. There will also be an exclusive capsule collection coming up at MATCHESFASHION.
NEW DESIGNERS FOR F/W 2021
Former journalist Gaelle Drevet launched The Frankie Shop in 2014 as a boutique in New York’s Lower East Side, offering a hand-picked curation of emerging labels that reflected her desire for classic pieces that transcend seasons and trends. In 2017, a second location was opened in Paris before the company branched out to create its own range of ready-to-wear, continuing the muted, elegant mood. Expect pared-back and practical loungewear rendered in earthy, natural shades.
Central Saint Martins alumna and British Fashion Award winner Rejina Pyo founded her eponymous London-based label in 2014 and has since become a cult name among industry insiders, known for her architectural silhouettes and saturated hues. A design ethos of ‘bringing the extraordinary to the everyday’ is translated through staple silhouettes reimagined with artistic subtleties such as sharp cutouts, topstitching and sculptural buttons, largely inspired by the designer’s mother’s love of antiques. Expect inherently feminine codes underpinned by a perfect fusion of vintage and modernity.
Founded in 1957, Canada Goose is known for making the world’s warmest coat, the Snow Mantra parka, and the original prototype was designed for Arctic explorers to withstand temperatures as low as -70 degrees Celsius. The outerwear is filled with sustainably sourced North American down feathers – the best natural filler for warmth-per-weight ratio with a reduced impact on climate change than artificial fibres. Each jacket champions the label’s made in Canada heritage and passes through the hands of 13 craftsmen, enduring rigorous testing to brave the harshest elements.
EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS AND CAPSULE COLLECTIONS
Loewe’s Paula’s Ibiza collection launched in 2016 after creative director Jonathan Anderson sought inspiration from Armin Heinemann’s famed Spanish boutique. Established in 1972 in the heart of Ibiza’s Old Town, the store’s curation takes cues from the era’s hippie revival, fusing a care-free attitude with Heinemann’s artistic vision, which swiftly became a sought-out hub for the island’s riotous bohemians such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Valentino Garavani, and Freddie Mercury. Through this lens, Loewe presents a collection of laid-back wardrobe staples infused with Mediterranean charm.
Salvatore Ferragamo is considered a benchmark of understated luxury, established in 1927 upon the founder’s return to Florence from Boston. Ferragamo honed his craft as a cobbler in Naples before setting up his made-to-measure workshop on Via Mannelli, which would see his avant-garde ideas manifest to critical acclaim, most notably Judy Garland’s ‘Rainbow 1938 leather and suede platform sandals and the iconic cork wedge heels. Now with a reputable expansion into ready-to-wear, the house celebrates classic Italian glamour with a distinctly feminine narrative – a reputation endorsed by collaborations with some of Hollywood’s most esteemed costume studios for over sixty years. Today launches a very special capsule collection dedicated to the iconic footwear pieces.
Loup Charmant (which means charming wolf) is the soft separates brand launched in 2006 by designer Kee Edwards. Each piece is geared for all-day, everyday wear, through diaphanous fabrics and feminine lines. Soon there will be an exclusive capsule collection available at MATCHESFASHION.
Years before Emilia Wickstead‘s dresses became a favourite on the red carpet, she began her training alongside her mother – a bespoke womenswear designer in their native New Zealand. After graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2007, Wickstead moved to New York and gained experience working for some of the industry’s biggest fashion houses. In 2011, she showed her first collection at London fashion week and quickly garnered a following for her modern, ladylike aesthetic. Worn by a diverse collective of stars – from Alexa Chung to the Duchess of Cambridge – the designer’s elegant dresses and separates are recognisable for their sumptuous fabrics and sophisticated colour palette.
I personally love Emilia’s designs and am very excited for an exclusive beach capsule collection coming up on MATCHESFASHION.
Close friends Lucy Halfpenny and fashion photographer Brigette Clarke were inspired by their love of 1970s American poolside attire and long European summers to launch their beachy label Terry, after the pair met up wearing the same vintage terry-towelling bucket hat by chance. The Australian label offers carefree separates ideal for long summer days, reinterpreting sporty tennis pieces with an effortless, laid-back mood. Expect tie-front tops and gradient dip-dyed shorts realised in sunset shades that form a composed warm-weather capsule.
Jet-set glamour doesn’t come much more established or recognisable than Emilio Pucci. The brand’s high-octane, 1970s-tinged aesthetic is beloved worldwide. My favorite when it comes to beachwear (just placed an order while writing this post). An exclusive summer capsule will launch soon.
Born from a love of meticulous craftsmanship, Indonesian label Isa Boulder balances contemporary aesthetics with the values of small-scale production. Founders Yuli and Lia combine their expertise in architecture, business and fashion to create a comprehensive swimwear offering, with each piece made by local artisans in the label’s Bali studio using recycled Italian Lycra. Shape and fit are key considerations for every design, with flattering cutouts and strategically placed seams used to ‘seek out new ways to accentuate the female form’. Expect swimsuits and bikinis in earthy pastel hues and a very special capsule collection.
JEWELRY NEW DESIGNERS
After training at the Parsons School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology, Allison Fry launched her jewellery line Fry Powers in 2018. She draws inspiration from a wide range of Modernist and Pop artists such as Ellsworth Kelly, Frank Stella, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring. Each piece is locally crafted in the label’s New York studio from sterling silver and 14kt gold adorned with colourful hand-applied enamel for a mood-lifting touch. Keep an eye out for statement rings, necklaces and earrings in a spectrum of rainbow hues.
Raised between Tuscany and New York, designer Laura Lombardi combines the simplicity and warmth of Italian design with gritty industrial accents for her eponymous jewellery line, founded in 2010. Exaggerated proportions and elegant curvature underscore the collections, citing her background in sculpture, which are sustainability crafted by Brooklyn-based artisans and metalsmiths using recycled brass, upcycled charms and fastenings with a zero-waste gold-plating system. The result is a considered repertoire of spirited adornments, designed to be worn every day. Fun pieces for a great price.
A vivacious, punkish and experimental spirit defines Dana Lorenz’s jewellery label FALLON, launched in 2007 in New York City. It blends statement proportions and industrial influences with dainty stones in classic cuts to create wearable pieces that can be mixed and matched, inspired by the drama of 1980s pop culture and customisable accessories. The result is a stone-smattered collection of earrings, bracelets and necklaces with chain-inspired accents.
JEWELRY EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS
Jacquie Aiche’s design philosophy is to make every woman look and feel uniquely beautiful. Merging Native American gemstones with Middle Eastern influences, the designer’s signatures are delicate body chains, multi-layered necklaces and goddess-inspired amulets. Her special take on Cartier watches is exclusive to MATCHESFASHION.
Sophie Bille Brahe’s understated gold jewellery has a celestial element that’s inspired by the work of her ancestor, the astronomer Tycho Brahe who discovered the constellation Cassiopeia. The Copenhagen-based founder honed her skills at London’s prestigious Royal College of Art and crafts the pieces by hand using traditional goldsmith techniques. Look to the label’s signature Croissant de Lune earrings, Peggy necklace and Tennis bracelet with graduated diamonds and pearls to lend a minimalist feel to everyday edits.
HOME EXLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS & CAPSULES
Street-style star, journalist and contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar and Wallpaper* magazines JJ Martin launched La DoubleJ in 2015, initially as a platform to sell her collection of vintage clothing. Soon, she began to create ready-to-wear pieces, working with top Italian textile manufacturers, such as Mantero, to use reissued vintage prints from their archives. More recently, the Milan-based brand has expanded to include homeware, collaborating with French pâtisserie Ladurée to create bold tableware with charming motifs which explore archetypes of fertility and renewal.
Danish homeware label Reflections Copenhagen was founded in 2015 after Julie Hugau and Andrea Larsson discovered a mutual affinity for art and decór. The duo takes inspiration from the dynamic expression of the Art Deco movement, resulting in a refined homeware offering that fuses exquisite design with a dedication to impeccable craftsmanship. The innovative shape of each piece is designed to capture and manipulate light, creating an array of captivating shadows. Expect sophisticated yet functional ornaments such as vases and dishes, all expertly handmade using time-honoured techniques and created to last for generations.
Alice Naylor-Leyland founded homeware label Mrs Alice in 2019, celebrating the ritual of setting a table. Drawing on childhood memories of her mother’s enviable interiors and a fashion education at Istituto Marangoni, she unites old-world craftmanship with whimsical and contemporary details to create a collection of fantasy-inspired tableware designed to enrich the everyday occasions. Expect an exclusive selection of picnic hampers, all underscored with English charm.
TRENDS S/S 2021
The Joyful Everyday
Everyday pieces, from jeans to sleepwear, have been given a joyful spin by designers who are experimenting with bold, uplifting colours and prints.
From left to right: Flying Flowers-print silk-twill shirt dress by Valentino, polka-dot satin shirt and matching trousers, both by Halpern, Massey tie-dye cashmere-gauze gown by Gabriela Hearst.
Celebrating At Home
For those of us who can, this year is about entertaining at home. The aim is to go all-out and have some fun with uplifting colour and print – both in wardrobes and interiors.
From left to right: My look: Distressed logo-intarsia sweater in yellow, distressed open-weave wool sweater in black, and belted pleated mohair-blend skirt
, all by Prada, homeware by Gergei Erdei, Zina fringed silk-satin dress
by Roksanda.
The Finer Things
As our focus shifts towards making every day special, timeless investments like fine jewellery replace occasion pieces as a luxury we can wear 24/7. There are pieces for every woman, no matter what her taste.
From left to right: Fine jewelry by Suzanne Kalan, diamonds by Shay, fun pieces
by Eéra.
The Great Outdoors
As we seek open-air pursuits and a connection with nature, and spend more time outdoors connecting with friends, a wardrobe of practical pieces in which to face the elements is high on the agenda.
From left to right: Single-breasted water-repellent canvas trench coat by Bottega Veneta, striped mohair-blend sweater by Marni, teddy coat by Max Mara.
Wardrobe Foundations
If you were to clear out your wardrobe and start again, these are the pieces you would buy first. They form the basis of our Wardrobe Foundations edit.
From left to right: Loafers by Fabrizio Viti, underwear
by Rossell England, a white shirt
by Bourienne Paris X.
Denim Redefined
Upcycled chambray at Gabriela Hearst, reworked Levi’s at Valentino and vintage patchworking from new brand B Sides: we are viewing denim in a new light this season.
From left to right: 517 upcycled bootcut jeans by Valentino x Levi’s
, Virginia sweetheart-neck linen-denim dress
by Gabriela Hearst, single-breasted denim jacket, and straight-cut denim midi skirt, both
by Lemaire.
ELIZABETH’S F/W 2021 RUNWAY FAVORITES
Elizabeth gave us a little outlook of what is coming up for F/W 2021. Gucci, Valentino, Prada, and Gabriela Hearst for Chloé are among her favorite collections.
THREE INVESTMENT PIECES YOU SHOULD HAVE IN YOUR CLOSET
Elizabeth and I were asked what would be the must-haves for your closet and we agreed on the following three: A Bottega Veneta bag, a Burberry trenchcoat, and a Gabriela Hearst cashmere sweater
.
In the end of the talk, I showed our guests my personal favorites available at MATCHESFASHION. Those looks will be posted shortly here on Sandra’s Closet. Stay tuned and happy shopping.
LoL, Sandra
Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and © MATCHESFASHION
Courtesy of the respective brands
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