Sandra‘s Closet

Birkenstock’s partnership with London fashion institution Central Saint Martins is launching the result of a two-year project with the BA Fashion History & Theory and MA Fashion courses. Releasing four designs and Birkenstock’s first-ever Archive style. Initiated in 2018, the project saw the CSM BA Fashion History & Theory course research and enrich Birkenstock’s prolific archive. Enabling students to immerse into Birkenstock’s culture and legacy to finally extract and define the core elements of Birkenstock’s history spanning over 250 years. The result of this research translated into a second project with the MA Fashion course. Inviting students to give their interpretation of emblematic styles in their contemporary way, thus shaping the future of the iconic German brand.

The four winning students with Fabio Piras.

One year later a jury of 12 renowned industry leaders led by Birkenstock CEO Oliver Reichert, MA Fashion Course Director Fabio Piras and fashion critic Sarah Mower MBE, were invited by Birkenstock to review all student portfolios and selected a shortlist of 10 finalists awarded as the winning designs with a first bursary award.

My favorites: Moto Sandal by Alex Wolfe.

Over a year of product development, four of the student designs have qualified for serial production.  Each design has the student’s name embossed in the iconic Birkenstock footbed. Experiencing the challenge to realize the product innovation delivered by these students is a good challenge. «We are proud to have a proven impact on these early careers and are counting this as one of our most relevant projects», states CEO Oliver Reichert.

Bukarest style in white by Alecsander Rothschild

The release of the collection is supported by a short film, seeing the jury and the professors exchange their views on the final product with the students. The jury was headed by Sarah Mower MBE and included CSM alumni Mary Katrantzou and Roksanda discussing with Gert Jonkers, Claudia Croft, Mimma Viglezio, Osman Ahmed, and Nick Vinson.

THE COLLECTION

Moto Sandal by CSM graduate Alex Wolfe (1991*)
Using Birkenstock’s expertise in orthopaedic shoe design Wolfe’s take on the Rotterdam Moto sandal challenges us with urban graphic as well as a striking upper leg design. Relying on Birkenstock’s very own eudermic material Birko-Flor he creates a flexible shield, whereas the foot lining of Nappa leather and suede offers a soft and soothing bed.

Cosy style by CSM graduate Dingyun Zhang (1995*)
Zhang’s pillow like version of the Arizona sandal takes inspiration from futuristic outerwear and oversized puffers. As a homage to comfort Cosy transforms the Arizona into a supportive, timeless classic. Its monochrome, contrasting color choice of snow white straps and black sole (and vice versa) fortifies the long-lasting design approach.

Terra style by CSM graduate Saskia Lenaerts (1993*)
As a reference to the classic Milano sandal, Terra’s prominent stitches replicates footlines, while Suede, Nappa and Nubuk leather offer comfort. Using contrasting colours like black/white and black/ultra blue the designer recreates the shadow play of an engraved footprint in the sand.

Bukarest style by CSM student Alecsander Rothschild (1992*)
Inspired by Brancusi’s contrasting use of different materials and textures Rothschild works equally with three kinds of leather to express his version of Birkenstock: Rustic black oiled nubuck leather or innocent white debossed leather, Rothschild offers a third version in shiny Silver.

Tallahassee Archive Style
To complement the student designs, the iconic Birkenstock Tallahassee Style from the 1990s sees a rebirth in contrast color designs. Uniting an artistic touch with long practiced craftsmanship the Tallahassee ornaments the foot without compromising comfort. As a woven coat the debossed leather enrobes the wearer like a second skin.

The collection is available with select stores worldwide and on 1774.com from now.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Birkenstock, © Walter Pfeiffer
#BIRKENSTOCKxCSM

Last week I showed you how to match your dinner invitations to your dress (click here for the previous post please). Now we can take it one step further and match the tablecloth and decoration to our outfits as London based designer Emilia Wickstead is bringing her coveted florals into the home. Exclusive to Moda, this collection of table linens (featuring prints lifted from her most-loved dresses) marks Wickstead’s first foray into interiors—and, better yet, it delivers within the month. Don’t miss it.

TO SHOP THE NEW AND EXCLUSIVE EMILIA WICKSTEAD HOME AND READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

ABOUT EMILIA WICKSTEAD

British-based and New Zealand born, spent her formative years in Milan and gained a Bachelors of Arts Degree in Fashion Design and Marketing at Central Saint Martin’s London with Honours in 2007.

After graduating, Emilia worked at fashion houses Giorgio Armani, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez and Vogue in New York and Milan. Before returning to London to establish her own label in 2008 by opening her first store in Belgravia. Originally commencing as a made-to-measure atelier, Emilia’s collections are currently seasonal ready-to-wear and showcased at London Fashion Week from S/S 2012.

Emilia Wickstead is stocked in retailers globally including Net-A-Porter, Selfridges, Matches, Harvey Nichols and Moda Operandi alongside of her flagship store which opened in 2014, on London’s Sloane Street.

I am a huge fan of her beautiful feminine designs!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead

During Paris Fashion Week, I went to some amazing events that I would like to share with you. Let’s get started with one that was truly outstanding, something that you don’t see every day.

I was invited to the elegant salons of the association France Ameriques in avenue Franklin Roosvelt, where a very special collaboration, PRINCESS GRACE, MORE THAN AN IMAGE, between Pringle of Scotland and Central Saint Martins was presented.

The collection designed by young talents of the renowned college of arts and design in London features pieces in the finest 100% made in Scotland knitwear, inspired by the wardrobe of H.S.H. Princess Grace of Monaco, who had loved the historical British brand very much and had been frequently seen in it.

H.R.H. Carolina of Monaco Princess of Hanover had come all the way from Monaco to attend this intimate event in honour of her late mother. She had also supported the students and had given them access to the palace archives.

In April 2012, the findings were revealed in an exhibition hosted by the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco featuring never before seen material, showcasing Princess Grace’s daily wardrobe in the most relaxed and familial situations, particularly knitwear and Pringle of Scotland archive styles.

The students took those aesthetic elements and translated them into this beautiful capsule collection…

… under the creative supervision of the famous Professor Louise Wilson O.B.E. (see photo below to the right). Being among the world’s most influential fashion educators, her former students include Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic among many others.

Personally speaking, I found one aspect very moving when H.R.H. Carolina of Monaco Princess of Hanover explained that this project has meant a lot to her: “There have been many exhibitions on my mum, but this is special, when she wore knitwear, it meant we were more informal, it meant happy times.“

And as Marie Claude Beaud, Director of the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco, put it “Grace Kelly has been a princess, an actress…but above all a woman, a mother”.

With this in mind, the collection truly manages to highlight the most personal, discreet and daily aspects of the Princess without loosing its historical heritage, it looks modern and desirable.

Pringle of Scotland’s ambassadress Tilda Swinton was leading the conversation.

Interesting to know is that the title PRINCESS GRACE: MORE THAN AN IMAGE derives from a quote that the Princess gave to Time Magazine in 1955, whilst still the film actress Grace Kelly, “I don’t want to dress up a picture with just my face”. This sense of exploring the person behind the image is evident throughout the project. She will stay in everyone’s imagination forever.

And this fall, it is official, we will not only dream of an Hermès Kelly bag.Pringle of Scotland’s Kelly sweater will be on everyone’s shopping list and it will be definitely more accessible. The capsule collection will hit the shelves in Switzerland in September at Jelmoli.

Stay tuned for an upcoming post on the movie “Grace” that will hit the cinemas in the end of the year and enjoy some more impressions of this beautiful event in Paris below.

LoL, Sandra

Gorgeous Tilda Swinton with me

Photos: Courtesy of Pringle of Scotland, © Sandra Bauknecht;
Photos of Princess Grace: © Jae Lee, © Alice Bastion