Fashion Days Zurich 2011: Julien Macdonald

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As a culmination of the Fashion Days Zurich, the renowned Fashion Rocks event took place on Saturday evening for the first time in Switzerland. The charity party is a combination of music and fashion, raising funds for The Prince’s Trust. Unfortunately, that fact got kind of lost during the night.

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Absolute highlight was the spellbinding show from Julien Macdonald. The only question that I was asking myself was: Why did the British designer, who worked for Chanel and took over the reins from McQueen at Givenchy before launching his eponymous label in 1998, showed his F/W 2011 collection that I saw and wrote already about in February (for the previous post, please click here) instead of the new S/S 2012 line? I asked him, but he avoided the answer. My guess, the F/W 2011 collection is the much better one, at least for me! But it gets worse….

The final gown on the runway presented by Swiss model Ronja Furrer was worn already by Heidi Klum to the Oscar’s but is from Julien Macdonald’s F/W 2009 collection (see photos at the end of this post)! Excuse me? Zurich might not be a fashion capital like London and Paris, but we don’t deserve this old stuff!

Thumbs down, Mr Macdonald, don’t you have anything new to show?!

Enjoy the backstage and catwalk photos! The Paul Mitchell team was in charge for the hair and the extensions. And if you are more interested in charity than old gowns, I recommend a project in Tansania that the annabelle magazine presented that night. For further information, please click here.

LoL, Sandra

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Fashion Days Zurich 2011: Talbot Runhof

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As the culmination of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Show Friday night in Zurich, Talbot Runhof showed their beautiful S/S 2012 collection.

The Munich-based label was born under Johnny Talbot & Adrian Runhof. The best way to describe their style is to focus on their attention to craftsmanship and detail and their exquisite couture cuts. A Paris Fashion Week regular and often seen on the red carpets, their billowing gowns and playful creations present a sophisticated, feminine glamour.

Talbot Runhof can be found in the best boutiques all over the world, including leading American department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and at Harrods in the UK.

TRwith meJohnny Talbot to the left and Adrian Runhof to the right with me.

Before the fashion show, I went backstage to talk to the designer duo. Enjoy!

Adrian,  how does it feel to be here in Switzerland to present your collection?

I love Switzerland, I am often here. Therefore it is so exciting for us to have a show tonight. We have many fans among the Swiss and sell very well in Switzerland.

Please tell me something about your inspiration for the S/S 2012 collection that we are going to see tonight!

Christian Lacroix has designed the costumes for the Munich Opera recently. This has inspired us, not the costumes themselves, but the early stage of Lacroix. When we got started in the Nineties, Lacroix played such a major part in our fashion history. Later, he lost it, his creations became overloaded. His golden age was marked by his ability to mix and match patterns and fabrics, as well as his amazing colour combinations. And this has inspired us!

Do you have any Swiss woman that you would like to dress?

Actually yes and we dress her tonight: Sarina Arnold. She will open the show and will present the final look, too.

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What are your future plans?

(Both smiling.) Who knows? We have created for the first time bags and shoes and will take it from there.

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Below you can see my favourite looks from the show. I took some details shots of the fabrics and details backstage for you to see the wonderful craftsmanship. Have fun!

LoL, Sandra

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Fashion Days Zurich 2011: Vogue Salon

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Last night, the Fashion Days Zurich welcomed Christiane Arp, editor-in-chief of German Vogue, in Switzerland. She came to present her „Vogue Salon“ which had taken place for the first time during the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Berlin past summer. It is no doubt an amazing stage for the hand-picked designers to show their talent. Originally intended to attract buyers, Vladimir Karaleev, Augustin Teboul, René Storck and Michael Sontag showed their collections in a showroom on mannequins in Berlin’s Hotel de Rome. Last night, on models. As for Christiane Arp, the Fashion Days Zurich are an interesting platform due to the fact that the guests are paying for the tickets which means that they are really interested in fashion.

Enjoy the photos of the four uprising young talents below:

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Frankfurt-based designer René Storck’s austere aesthetics, a little reminiscent of Céline and Lemaire’s collection for Hermès, have a certain graceful elegance. The models appeared on the runway with their hair tied back in buns like ballerinas with the movement of the cloth emphasizing the flowing aspect of the subject.

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Bulgarian-born Vladimir Karaleev has an interesting design approach: He only drapes his creations on the bust, so-called „moulage“,  skipping the old-school pattern making. This way, he is incorporating any of the infinite variations of shape the human figure can take and is creating interesting, new looks. His designs are highly influenced by contemporary art.

Vladimir Karaleev

 

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The collection of Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul, so-called Augustin Teboul, was my favourite last night. The cutting-edge designs combining poetic and gothic elements truly impressed me with their craftsmanship. And those knee tassels…OMG!

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Michael Sontag’s collection is very wearable, not too trendy with a focus on his interesting, assymetric cuts and liquid silhouettes. His colour palette is very refreshing, from powdery tones of rose and light grey to summery shades of white and curry.

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The culmination of the night was the S/S 2012 show of Talbot Runhof that I will post soon. So please stay tuned for more!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Fashion Days Zurich 2011: Annabelle Award

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“For the first time in my life I chose a man”, said Italian designer Roberto Cavalli when he proudly presented the winner of the 8th annabelle award last night in Zurich: 25-year-old Maxime Rappaz from Geneva. The young designer stood out with his innovative designs, the biggest eyecatcher: A bag that has its handels inside.

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Each of the five young designers was asked to show two of their designs. Below you can see the creations of the other competitors who were all female. Maxime, the winner, has received a one-year internship with Roberto Cavalli in Florence.

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Roberto Cavalli, who came directly from Japan, was completely jetlagged. I felt the same having just arrived from New York in the morning.
During the second night of the Fashion Days Zurich, he also presented his S/S 2012 Just Cavalli collection which I had seen already in Milan when I did the interview with him. The looks are powerful and if you like the style, you will be in love with these pieces. My favourite is the “Pocahontas” style dress with feathers worn by Leona Sigrist last night.

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The evening was also dedicated to our national fashion designers. During the Swiss Fashion night, the well established labels Little Black Dress, Aziza Zina, Javier Reyes and Van Bery presented their collections. Please enjoy my photo coverage below. For more information on the designers, just click on the highlighted name.

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Designers Joanna Skoczylas and Eliane Diethelm created a very colourful look for next summer even that the name of their label Little Black Dress suggests something else. But the classy and feminine approach paid a wonderful tribute to the iconic LBD.

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Morena Gonzales and Moritz Stoll of AZIZA zina paid homage to the Roaring Twenties (as also seen on the Gucci S/S 2012 catwalk). Some of the looks were reminiscent of Giorgio Armani‘s beautiful forays into women’s suiting. Swiss model Anouk Manser convinced the audience in a pretty cool turquoise dress.

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Javier Reyes presented a well-crafted, beautiful collection, very wearable and feminine. Absolute eyecatchers were the fabrics that the Mexican-born designer chose for his S/S 2012 designs.

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Van Bery is the label created by Berivan Meyer in association with Marie Tournant. Their joyful looks for S/S 2012 were colourful and sweet but not as strong as the other collections presented last night.

Below you can see some more impressions! Have fun! I am on my way to the Mercedes Benz Fashion Show…

LoL, Sandra

IMG_3323 Lisa Feldmann, editor-in-chief of annabelle magazine, in Just Cavalli and killer heels…

IMG_3547…by Barbara Bui.

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My look: Dress by Antonio Berardi, boots by Givenchy, bag by Céline and earrings by Chanel.

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Meet the King of Bling: Roberto Cavalli

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Roberto Cavalli, the “King of Bling” and the “Godfather of the Animal Prints” (as he quoted himself), will be soon coming to Switzerland for the Fashion Days Zurich. He will attend not only to present his latest relaunched Just Cavalli S/S 2012 collection, but also as a guest judge for the 8th annabelle award which will take place on November 10th, 2011. The lucky winner will receive a one year internship with the Florence based house.

Wild animal prints, floral embellishments and leather patches? It is surely no other than Roberto Cavalli.
His flamboyant iconic mix is seen everywhere on the red carpet and not only on celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez, Madonna and Lenny Kravitz. Last year, he celebrated his fashion house’s 40th anniversary. During Milan Fashion Week, I was able to meet with the Italian designer (who gives his nationality a lot of credit, believe me!). Please enjoy the interview where he explains his secret of success and why the Swiss women love Italian men.

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You will be coming soon to Switzerland for the Fashion Days Zurich. Have you ever been to Zurich? Or will it be your first time in November?

Oh I have of course been to Zurich, many times! What a fantastic city, with a great energy. I love Switzerland, my wife Eva and I have a beautiful boutique in Saint Moritz, the nature is really stunning, it offers up a lot of inspiration.

What do you expect from the Fashion Days Zürich?

I’m really looking forward to taking part in Fashion Days Zürich, it’s a wonderful project. I expect to see new ideas from young, passionate people. I’m always curious about young talent and emerging designers, they are the people who will enter the industry with a fresh mind and new ideas, it’s essential to keep fashion alive!

One contestant will receive an internship with you in Florence. What are the main qualifications you are looking for?

The person will have to be positive, to come with a smile on their face and be driven by a strong desire to learn. I’m looking for raw talent that can be drawn out, and the curiosity of a young person. It’s so important that they are curious to learn!

Do you have an idea how your Swiss customers look like?

It’s not about how my customers look, the Cavalli world is not about looking a certain way! It’s about an attitude, it’s about personality, emotions! I think that my Swiss fans share in these beliefs the same way as my fans in Italy, China or Brazil do!

And oh yes, I had many Swiss girlfriends. The Swiss women are wonderful. They like the Italian men because we appreciate them. The Swiss men are sometimes too dry.

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You have many different labels, from the main Roberto Cavalli line to Just Cavalli and Class by Roberto Cavalli, all three in different price levels. Dolce & Gabbana will be stopping their D&G brand and integrate it in the main line because they experienced that consumers didn’t understand the difference.
What about you? Is there a risk of confusion that costumers don’t understand why they should pay more for the Roberto Cavalli runway collection.

No, there is no risk of confusion. Obviously there are a lot of similarities, aesthetically speaking, between Just Cavalli and my main line Roberto Cavalli, because they are both part of the same Cavalli world and vision. But there are very basic and obvious differences too—Just Cavalli has a very young mindset— youthful, free-spirited, carefree! It’s an experimental line, and it obviously has a lower price point, so it’s more accessible than Roberto Cavalli mainline, whereas Roberto Cavalli is more formal and is taking the direction of demi-couture, the artisanship, the attention to detail—this is the fundamental difference.

What is your main target group for Just Cavalli? What is for you the big difference compared to the runway label?

Firstly, Just Cavalli is also a ’runway’ brand! We always have a fashion show, equally as beautiful as for the first line Roberto Cavalli. It may be the second line, but it is my baby! I love designing for Just Cavalli, because for me it’s a world of experimentation, researching and discovering new shapes, styles, materials! Just Cavalli has a ‘younger’ target, I don’t mean ‘younger’ as defined by an age bracket, but a younger philosophy—it’s very free-spirited and carefree and is highly competitive in the market segment known as “designer contemporary”. Roberto Cavalli is obviously accessible to a narrower target, it’s more exclusive of course, but I put the same amount of love and thought into each line.

The Just Cavalli line will not lose its distinct style codes, which have led to its success over the years, but will however evolve.

Is Just Cavalli your favourite son? Speaking in a metaphor.

I have three sons and two daughters. So yes, probably Just Cavalli is my fourth son. He is a little son but he grows very fast. But for a few seasons he was making me a little nervous, he was not good in school. But now, we have changed school and it is fantastic. And I enjoy teaching my son Just Cavalli. The DNA Cavalli is definitely there. He is a good son. He made so much progress.

Which do you think was the most important advice you have given your children? Did you expect them to work for you? Or did it happen naturally?

I got to where I am by believing in myself and following my heart, so I encourage my children to do the same! I’m proud to say that despite leading a very hectic life, I’ve always been very present in my children’s lives and I love having them around me in the work-place…but! If one day they decided “Papà, I want to leave the company to follow a different dream“, they would be leaving 100% with my blessing!

What was the most important thing you have learned from your father?

Sadly, I lost my father when I was very young, four years old. Luckily for me I had my outstanding mother! What a fantastic, marvellous person, a very brave woman … she was also present, by my side, in every phase of my life. She encouraged me to always carry on in the face of difficulties.

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Please describe yourself in three words.

Passionate, curious, optimistic!

The secret of your success.

Self-belief and passion.

What makes a woman irresistible and sexy?

It’s not just how a woman looks but how she feels. I design my clothing so that the woman wearing my dress feels confident and believes in her beauty … it empowers her and this makes her fascinating. And last but not least the eyes. They are the soul of a woman!

Who is the most beautiful woman in the world? The sexiest woman alive?

Oh! What a question, there are too many beautiful women to name! Honestly I think that the sexiest woman alive is someone with great personality and strong character, a woman who knows who she is and what she wants! And, of course, she is even more beautiful if she is wearing a Roberto Cavalli dress, no?

Please tell us something about your iconic printed photographs on your materials!

Absolutely. That is my style. This makes the difference. Therefore they all like to copy me. I am the designer of the animal prints. Why? I remember one night in Kenia. I took a photo of a leopard. When you look at my prints, you can see the hair on it. Today, all the other designers copy me and do it my way. Two days ago, they opened a new store on Via della Spiga. So I thought: Ohmygod a new Cavalli store? It was no Cavalli, it was another designer but it looked completely Cavalli. My style is my style! This makes me nervous.

You have so many different projects and licenses, like the Just Cavalli restaurant in Milan, the Caffè Giacosa In Firenze, your own chocolats, vodka, wine, eyewear, clothes for dogs, childrenswear.
You have created a Cavalli universe? Where does the inspiration come from? Where are the limits?

Limits? This word is not in my vocabulary! The inspiration comes from everywhere, when you are a curious person you find everything you look for and more. I travel a lot, I’m a lover of the outdoors, of nature—my creations always have a connection to nature! What a beautiful world we live in!

Thank you Mr. Cavalli!

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My dear readers, I hope that you have liked the interview!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Weltwoche Style Edition 05-2011

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Today, something for my Swiss and German based readers: The fifth 2011 Weltwoche Style Edition is available now featuring my winter must-haves, an interview with Roberto Cavalli, and my must-visits for the Fashion Days Zurich in November.

Have a good weekend read!

LoL, Sandra

At the Just Cavalli S/S 2012 Show

Roberto and I 4Roberto Cavalli gave me an interesting interview (coming soon)

The Just Cavalli S/S 2012 show marks the relaunch of the brand and can be best described as romantic, sweet, light and positive. From the photos of Roberto Cavalli’s travels, the prints are born: absolute protagonists of this very sexy collection, inspired as always by the wonder of nature. Overlapping the butterfly and floral print for example is an animalier motif, creating a very special effect.
The customers? Sunny girls who want to enjoy themselves, in the beautiful and unique time of their youth, who like to go to music festivals. Maxi dresses, gilets encrusted with metallic stitching and bags with small foulards and marmot tails like new good luck charms provide the perfect look. To shop Just Cavalli, please click here.

For my Swiss based readers, here is a taste of what is to come in November when Roberto Cavalli will present his Just Cavalli S/S 2012 collection during the annabelle awards (The winner will receive a one year internship with Roberto Cavalli in Florence.) for the second edition of the Charles Vögele Fashion Days Zurich. If you don’t want to miss the fashion show, tickets are available at ticketcorner.ch.

Here is your sneak preview of what you can watch live this fall in Zurich.

Hope that you will like it.

LoL, Sandra

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