Sandra‘s Closet

Today, I would like to give you a preview of my Top 20 runway shows for S/S 2011 that I consider the key collections for the next season.

The overall spirit was light-hearted and positive sweeping away the last bit of sobriety. The designers’ colouring box was bright and vibrant with lots of neon shades, vibrant stripes and bold tones.  Many tributes to YSL as well as the 70s were spotted, along with biker and punk themes, floral prints and embroideries, Marrakesh and Shanghai references and pure clean white. Enjoy!

LOUIS VUITTON: Marc Jacobs’ S/S 2011 show for the French fashion house was a hell of a lot of fun, brazen in decadence. A colourful free-spirited collection for the camped-up China girl that loves high-voltage chic. Inspirations from 1930 Shanghai’s Art Deco style to a 70’s New York disco atmosphere were seen in the Cheongsam dresses and bold tiger stripes.
As for me one of my favourites this season.

PRADA: Miuccia Prada’s message was crystal-clear: „It’s time to be bold“. Her ecclectic humours take on her S/S 2011 collection was visionary. Fake baroque paintings (Who would have ever imagined that baroque can be minimal?!), fluorescent stripes, Josephine Baker banana designs and Mexican sombreros lead to that iconic Prada-twist that likes to surprise us.
I am loving it!!!!

JIL SANDER: An implicit change to the Jil Sander woman, that was this collection about. Minimalism inversed into a modern maximalism that led to couture. Raf Simons surprised the fashion crowd with this exceptional S/S 2011 show.
Simple white tees dominated long, full skirts joined with YSL’s rich associations of colours. The shapes were reminiscent of Cristobal Balenciaga’s proportions. The apostel for minimalism, Raf Simons, showed us another optimistic side of the Sander woman without betraying the spirit of the label. Wow! And by the way, the fuchsia lips are gorgeous…

CHRISTOPHER KANE: „Princess Margaret on acid“, this is how Tammy described her brother’s S/S 2011 collection. It was an interesting vision of the future, brilliant and different, like the designer and his place in English fashion. Fluoresent colours and print motifs inspired by yakuza tattoos lightened up the classic and kind of formal pieces.
Watch out for Christopher, this guy is provoking trends!

MARC JACOBS: There were many YSL references on the catwalks and Marc Jacobs was one of the first ones showing them in New York. By taking on the energy of the Studio 54 years and the ’70s, the brilliant American designer came up with one of his best collections, fresh, charming with a modern new spin, an ode to Missoni’s zigzag knits.
I cannot wait to get my hands on the peasant blouses and full skirts. My summer must-haves.

GUCCI: Yves Saint Laurent’s Marrakech years were in the air and a breeze of the ’70s omnipresent at Frida Giannini’s collection  for Gucci. Alternating between electric glamour, safari chic and ethnic touches, the Italian powerhouse continued to celebrate the female silhouette and its seductiveness. You cannot go wrong with this!

EMILIO PUCCI: A beautiful Greek Mediterranean vibe highlighted the collection that was seventies-inflected and mostly long. Peter Dundas knows his craft and the jetset girls will love his luxe hippie dresses worn with laced boots. Nonchalant, elegant, seductive details of which some were a little reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent will make Pucci a bestseller this summer.

YVES SAINT LAURENT: The seventies are everywhere this summer and so is YSL. Thanks to the retrospective that was held this year in Paris, many designers were influenced by the epic Saint Laurent. But none could stake a more legitimate claim to the Master’s inspirations than Stefano Pilati’s work.
He revisited the codes of the fashion house one by one, „le smoking“, the famous palette of orange and pink, French blue, black and beige, abundant bows and the sophisticated tailleurs. I am so on for a trip down memory lane, and you?

CHANEL: This time, Karl Lagerfeld took his inspiration from the early sixties movie Last Year at Marienbad and created a breathtakingly surreal setting. More than 80 models paraded through the ornamental garden with fountains, water features and gravel paths. The collection was so rich, full of couture details with dégradé chiffon florals, tweed patchwork, feathered edges and more. Just beautiful!

MARY KATRANTZOU: It was her first stand-alone show with which she won the Swiss Textiles Award 2010 in November. Mary Katrantzou is one of the hottest fashion newscomer with her groundbreaking creations. The designer of Greek origin worked in three dimensions and was inspired by the decors and backgrounds of the most beautiful of Guy Bourdin’s and Helmut Newton’s photos.
There was an almost hallucinatory depth to her digital printed clothes. The real revolution was how Mary modeled the shape to go with the graphics of interior designs. Are you up for wearing “room” this summer?

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Sarah Burton who had worked beside McQueen for 15 years, took over the cepter after the designer’s death last February. The S/S 2011 show, her first solo one, grabbed hold of his legacy and defined the same fantasia McQueen was so famous for. This time a hymn to nature, superb in its construction.
One of the biggest differences was that Burton softened the staging, a concept that was always so  vital to a McQueen show. It was a pleasure to see that there is a more feminine vision for the house but with the same theatrical love for detail.

HERMES: Time to say good-bye for Jean-Paul Gaultier and he couldn’t have done it better. His last collection for the traditional French house boasted of master tailoring, sensuous glamour and leather at its finest. “Zorro in Andalusia” celebrates Hermès’ equestrian elegance heritage could have been the headline. Good luck to Lacoste defector Christophe Lemaire! Taking these luxurious reins seems to be quite difficult…

CELINE: The collection was once more strong in its remarkable simplicity even that Phoebe Philo laid her hands on artisanal effects like hand-woven silks, fringes and vibrant colours. Her motto „less is forever chic“ has determined the codes of her hugely influential designs.

CHLOE: Minimalism at its best. Classic, timeless pieces that women can make their own and customise at will. The tutu-like skirts, reminiscent of the world of ballet, were among my favourites. Congrats, Hannah MacGibbon, for this lovely collection!

ERDEM: Erdem Moralioglu, the upcoming designer of Turkish origin, took his audience to Russia for his S/S 2011 presentation in a London park. He had been involved this summer with Victoria & Albert Museum’s Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, 1909-1920 exhibition.
The experience had been so inspiring that it shaped the substance of his collection where delicate dresses that clearly reflected the structure and flou of ballet costumes dominated the look. Once again floral motifs sprinkled the collection and were complemented by Nicholas Kirkwood’s gorgeous shoes tied up the calf like ballet slippers. I am sure that we will see much more of Erdem in the future.

STELLA MCCARTNEY: Even that I have to admit that I prefered Stella’s cruise 2011 collection, I am always in love with her practical, easy chic. The mother of four knows what she is talking about. Her key pieces are ideal companions to feel good in, even her long skirts split up the thighs swing comfortably with class. First bananas at Prada, now grapefruits and lemons at Stella that put us in a good mood. Her suits in pastel colours were strong on the runway and denim made a boxy shape debut. Thumbs up!

HAIDER ACKERMANN: One thing is for sure, the days that Haider Ackermann was only a fashion insider’s favourite secret are definitely over. His S/S 2011 collection was outstanding in its beauty. Origami folds, kimono jackets and obi belts were among the Asian references. Dramatic effects and strong colours for a glamorous red carpet moment.

DIOR: Betty Page, the model from the 50s that invented the pin-up look, goes on vacation to Hawaii – this South Pacific-style fantasy dominated John Galliano’s collection for Dior. The colours and floral prints on exquisite chiffons, the ankles tied with satin, this island extravaganza put you immediately in the holiday mood. Very cute.

BALENCIAGA: This was probably the most futuristic, unexpected and innovating collection of all. Nicolas Ghesquière defied the fashion codes and came up with new ones. His teddy boy-meets-punk masculinity was the reaction to a certain kind of sexiness. For him it was all about individuality. The talented fashion troublemaker used plasticized textures and couture techniques that were modernized with laser machine precision cuts.
It might take a while to adapt to the look but once you get it, you will be all over it!

BALMAIN: Honestly, the time of Balmain might come to an end as there are always the same sharp-tailored rock allure pieces on the runway but I still love them so much.
This time, Christophe Decarnin shortened the shorts and minis as much as he could and looked for punk rebellion for inspiration. Studded and safety pinned biker jackets, bleached jeans and holey T-shirts were among his favourites. Let’s hope that the Balmainia is still strong enough to convince the fashionistas to pay so much for this DIY-look…

Stay tuned as I will go much more into detail during the next weeks about the trends and must-haves for S/S 2011.
If you are interested which collections were my Top 20 for F/W 2010, please click here.

To a very promising and cheerful looking summer!

LoL, Sandra

Today, the official engagement photos of Kate and William shot by Mario Testino were released to the public.

The future bride stayed down to earth and wore two pieces out of her own closet, a simple belted Nanette gown by Reiss with ruffle detail across the front.
Since this dress is last season, there is no rush to get your hands on it. But Reiss would be foolish not to start remaking the dress and so the British high street brand announced that it will be re-leased and available beginning January 2011, as part of the Reiss S/S 2011 collection.

Kate’s white embroidered blouse worn for the more intimate photograph from Whistles is also to be reissued to allow customers to emulate Kate Middleton’s engagement outfit.

If I were Kate’s stylist, I would have gone for a more de luxe option. What do you think about this beautiful ruffled Valentino gown and embroidered Chloé blouse?
Both available at net-à-porter.
Aren’t those so much more glamorous?

LoL, Sandra

Valentino Woll-crepe mini dress

Chloé Silk knife-pleated blouse

Walk through the snow or conquer the asphalt in style in those must-have boots. They will keep your feet warm and make you forget about your favourite pair of heels… probably!

LoL, Sandra

As you already know if there is one piece fashion is gushing over this F/W 2010, it is the camel coat. Being a true classic and always in style, this season seems to be the perfect time to get one. Many designers showed their own unique take on it. Whether it is made from genuine camel hair or not, it is an investment always worth it.

In case you have not decided yet, please find above a summary of the best pieces in stores at the moment. There is something for every taste and budget.

I decided to go for the long caramel camel-wool wrap coat by Chloé. It is a very versatile piece. Cinched at the waist with the skinny tan belt or thrown over loose, the overall impact is pure sophistication.

I love to wear it tone on tone with my chunky wool cardigan dress by Stella McCartney and my suede Gucci overknee boots for an instant sensual upgrade. The Céline box bag adds the perfect minimalistic chic.

The probably most authentic choice is the iconic and much-copied Max Mara cashmere blend overcoat that launched in 1981. It has been the company’s bestseller since nearly thirty years. What the trench is to Burberry, the classic camel coat is to Max Mara, specifically the model with the so-called style number “101801”.

Therefore, it is no wonder that the Italian brand has recently used the wool and cashmere icon to launch its e-commerce business. The double-breasted outerwear piece has an 42 inch length and kimono sleeves that can be rolled up. Its proportions make it an ideal fit for all women. It can be personalized with a special lining and a name or monogram on the inside label.
Available for purchase exclusively at maxmara.com.

LoL, Sandra

With the big sock-in-shoe trend, it seems all natural that designer have come up with a very convenient way of doing it: Inbuilt rib-knit stockings.

As for me, I  have found it always difficult to decide with shoe size to buy if I have to fit in some thick ribbed wool socks, too. Now, my problem is solved.

Pull those boots on with a mini skirt and your legs will look surprisingly long! You can play with the length of the stocking, taking it all up as a dramatic choice or chopped down for a cool style.

I am all up for it, and you?

LoL, Sandra

So long, miniskirts! Say hello to longer hemlines as they swing their way back into our closets this fall.

Interesting to know is the hemline theory which says that when hemlines go up, it is a sign that stock prices rise. When the knees are seen, it is a bull market. When the skirts get longer, it is a bear market, and prices will fall. Is the longer hemline an indicator for a global recession? Can fashion explain today’s erratic swings in the stock market? Will see…
Probably the reason is that during bad economy, ladies do not want to spend their money on cellulite cream and hair removal. The longer hemline works then to their advantage and so the theory would be correct.

During F/W 2010 fashion weeks last spring, editors were almost tripping on their skirts, taking boho to the max and they were absolutey right.

Inside on the runways, the long skirts made their comeback to daily life, from floor-sweeping to still showing a bit of leg, but most importantly keeping it well below the knee.

Above, you will see my pre-selection of gorgeous long skirts that are all available at the moment.

Love this look: Skirt and scarf by LOUIS VUITTON, worn with a coat by CELINE, a belt by HERMES and boots by FENDI. Photo by Phil Poynter for German Vogue September 2010.

If you go for the trend, I will recommend pairing it with a cropped jacket, tucked in blouse or a belted-top for a nice silhouette. Especially if you are small-framed, you have to make sure that you are not swallowed by the floor grazing skirt. If you like you can also opt for the “Olsen Twins look” with a long knitted cardigan on top, but still try to get the proportions right.

I hope that you have enjoyed seeing the economy through the eyes of a fashionista!

LoL, Sandra

Let`s travel further in time. A breeze from the `70s floated over the F/W 2010 runways when the designers brought the more sophisticated aspects of this decade`s fashion into the now. Indulging in reminiscences of young Jane Birkin, Bianca Jagger and Veruschka, nonchalance, luxe and subtlety are the catchwords fall embraces.

Camel is the colour of the season followed by a palette of browns, nudes, and greys.

The ever-stylish shade makes a great fashion statement in combination with the must-have outerwear this season, the cape.

I love the cape by H&M to the right.

Cut more generously than a coat, the dashing alternative allows more freedom of movement and works much better over shoulder embellishments and mutton sleeves.
It was a veritable explosion of fur on the runways so there is no need to shy away from those ueberluxe pieces. The soft cocoon embrace of a voluminous real or faux fur jacket (or vest) will be irresistible this winter.

As the mood is casual luxe for daywear, redefine power-dressing in buttery silk blouses with tie collars.

When it comes to trousers, opt for sleek or wide leg ones with a minimalist edge. Razor-sharp slimline Gucci pants or immaculately tailored like the ones by YSL are among my favourites. Naturally worn with a cashmere turtleneck, they are the most figure flattering throwback to `70s style.

Booties by H&M

To complement the look, you will have to tie the knot with a pair of lace up booties. They are must-haves for every shoeaholic.

Synonymous with luxe seventies style are the long-handled drawstring bucket bags. So no wonder they have made a much-welcome appearance.

Another bestseller will be the remake of Gucci`s 1973 line. Available in nappa, suede and exotic leathers like crocodile and ostrich, those bags are classic and beautiful enough to be safe investment pieces.

Hat by H&M, Stills: Courtesy of H&M

If you really want to get a head start on the boho wardrobe, look for a floppy hat or a knitted beanie.

You do not need to go overboard. Enjoy your fashion moments in traditional, timeless essentials and the overall effect will be more post seventies luxe than vintage hippie.

LoL, Sandra

During the next week, we will do some time-travelling through different decades and their impacts on the F/W 2010 collections. One of the most important ones to influence your fall wardrobe, is the era of the late fifties. It is a celebration of women with the return of the curvy silhouette. Forerunner of the mid-century modern look is Miuccia Prada that surprised once more with her first time focus on the breasts with ruffled  pointy-bra tops. But there is nothing vulgar about her designs. When nostalgia catches up, Marc Jacobs cannot be far away. In the same vein as Prada this season, his collection for Louis Vuitton accented the womanly figure via corsets, belted wasp waists, petticoated skirts, fitted tops and deep cuts.

The looks could have come straight out of the most popular American TV show of the moment, Mad Men. The Emmy and Golden Globe winning series is set in the late fifties/ beginning of the sixties in the world of New York advertising. Its visual style is highly acclaimed and has inspired many designers for fall.

The mood is very fresh feminine with an uptight but sexy secretary note. The full skirt that had reigned until the early 1960s as the emblem of the 1950s woman celebrates its comeback with a charming Frenchified accent.

The hair is scraped back into high, bouncy sort of Brigitte Bardot ponytails or preferably worn in high chignons, held by tight headbands. The make-up is very Dita Von Teese, sort of clean and all about eyeliner. If you like, you can add a red pout. This look will stay for Resort 2011 as seen beautifully at Dior.

To accessorize your Stepford Wives look, here is what you need:

First a pair of spiked little kitten heels, Those very pointed shoes are comfy and because of their short height, you can still look up to the stronger sex.

Secondly, a top handle bag that shows discreet elegance.

And last but not least, a pair of cat-eye sunglasses. You can choose from sharply exaggerated to sweetly retro, just unleash your feline side.

Can you write in shorthand “chic”? I am convinced that now you can…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

Fall patterns took a traditional turn with highland tartans and madras checks. Plaid has continued its raison d`être as one of fashion`s favourite fabrics for F/W 2010. But this season is not about the lumberjack shirt, the designers went a little further with plaid dresses and pants, plus the absolute must-have: The kilt-inspired skirt!

If you want to work a touch of heritage-chic into your cold-weather wardrobe, I recommend starting now with those super-cool skirts below. From mini to pencil, from draped to pleated, those versions are catering for all tastes. Update your capsule wardrobe with a piece like that and you are all on for new-season cool. Prices can vary depending on the country you live in.

In case you are worried to look too preppy-back-to-school, juxtapose this classic fabric against something with a bit more edge. I put an outfit together to show you what I mean:
The classic skirt by Chloé works perfectly with a corset top and asymmetrical sweater, both by Alexander Wang. Team with a must-have cape by Stella McCartney and stocking-attached ankle boots by Givenchy and finish off your modern, sexy look with a floppy hat by YSL. This is anything but conservative!

Like I always say, keep your stuff, there will be a time that you can wear it again! My outfit is completely from previous seasons and looks very up-to-date this fall.

Plaid skirt by Gucci, leather biker jacket by Ralph Lauren Collection, red boots by Prada, bag by Chanel and hat by H&M.

There is always a time for a kilt! And you can spare the underwear…

LoL, Sandra

Me in the Haight area wearing black leggings by BLUMARINE, military shirt by BALMAIN, top and pink-khaki scarf by LOUIS VUITTON and suede clogs by MIU MIU

Last week, I spent a few days in San Francisco. Haight Ashbury is the famous intersection in the area that gets its notoriety from the “psychedelic” culture and the 1968 “Summer of Love”. Today, you can still feel the hippie vibe with its fragments of flower-power.

When I was walking around the district, I got so inspired by the gorgeous bright coloured houses, so-called Painted Ladies. The term refers to Victorian and Edwardian buildings painted in three or more colours that embellish their architectural features.

Adopting that idea and transferring it to fashion, I styled some beautiful outfits in different colour combinations. You will see how stunning some shades can look together. Most people tend to wear a more neutral palette along with black. There is nothing against this. But today, I want to challenge you a bit and demonstrate how wonderful a little mix with some bolder tones can appear without looking like a clown.

It is again all about that special twist. Carrie in Sex and the City might be the perfect example: Patricia Field, the show`s stylist, opts very often for something that looks kind of strange in the beginning, but then so surprising and interesting that you cannot take your eyes of it.

Experiment with your own style! That is the thing that is so hard to copy and will earn you lots of admiring glances.

Spare for a little hug?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht