Sandra‘s Closet

On December 2nd, I was invited by Net-à-Porter to join a live event hosted by Alison Loehnis, President of NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER and Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Creative Director of Chloé to discuss the S/S 2021 collection. I was so keen on it and hoped to make it on time as the moving company was still unloading my boxes. However, all of a sudden I received a message in the morning of the 2nd that due to Natacha Ramsay-Levi being unwell, Net-à-Porter was regrettably cancelling the event with Chloé. Today, I found out why Natacha was not feeling well.

She is stepping down from her role at the Parisian luxury leather goods and apparel brand owned by Richemont after only 4 years. A new creative director was not named yet.

«Over the last months of health, social and economic turmoil, I have thought about the changes I want to see in our industry and how to better align them with my own creative, intellectual and emotional values,» Ms. Ramsay-Levi said in her statement. «It is this reflection that makes me consider my future differently and desire to pursue new opportunities.»

Me wearing some of Natacha’s key looks for Chloé

Personally speaking, I truly liked Natacha’s vision, who worked as a key deputy of Nicolas Ghesquière during his time at Balenciaga and during his early seasons at Louis Vuitton, as it was a less commercial take on the house’s bohemian and very feminine codes. However, what had been driving the most sales at Chloé previously, were all the It-bags under previous designers like Clare Waight Keller and Hannah MacGibbon, that have been lacking recently. Even that the collections were broadly well received by fashion lovers, they were ultimately lacking in strong-selling items unfortunately. Sometimes, it drives me nuts that people don’t understand the greatness of some pieces and that they opt for mainstream.

TO SHOP THE CHLOÉ F/W 2020 COLLECTION, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Chloé F/W 2020 finale

Photos: © Chloé and © Sandra Bauknecht
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Yesterday, Givenchy announced the appointment of its new designer, effective of today. Matthew M. Williams, the 34-year-old founder of luxury streetwear-inspired label 1017 ALYX 9SM, known simply as Alyx, will be its new creative director. Matthew M. Williams will take on all creative responsibilities for Women’s and Men’s collections. This marks the designer’s first major director role and a new direction for the LVMH-owned brand. He succeeds Clare Waight Keller after her exit in April, and will present his first collection in Paris in October. Williams will continue to operate Alyx independently.

Matthew M. Williams by Paolo Roversi

It is the second time a designer rooted in street fashion has taken the helm of a major legacy luxury brand, following Virgil Abloh’s hiring at Louis Vuitton in 2018.

It is an interesting and troubled time for the fashion industry in general. According to BoF, «the pandemic is expected to shrink the luxury market by as much as 35 percent this year due to store closures and decreased travel and consumer spending.»

«I believe [Williams’] singular vision of modernity will be a great opportunity for Givenchy to write its new chapter with strength and success,» said Sidney Toledano, chairman and Chief Executive of LVMH’s Fashion Group, in a statement.

Williams will surely focus on materials and sustainability which might attract also new Givenchy costumers as consumers were already demanding more transparency about the environmental impact of fashion products before the pandemic. In light of the recession, quality and craftsmanship will likely take on even greater weight for shoppers. Let’s see what the future brings…

Matthew M. Williams states: «I am extremely honored to join the House of Givenchy. The Maison’s unique position and timeless aura make it an undeniable icon and I am looking forward to working together with its ateliers and teams, to move it into a new era, based on modernity and inclusivity. I am grateful to the LVMH group for trusting me with the opportunity to fulfill my lifelong dream. In these unprecedented times for the world, I want to send a message of hope, together with my community and colleagues, and intend to contribute towards positive change.»

Matthew M. Williams will present his first collection for the House of Givenchy in Paris in October.
TO SHOP GIVENCHY ONLINE, CLICK HERE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Paolo Roversi for Givenchy
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Creative director Clare Waight Keller began her zodiac jewellery line for Givenchy with a piece reflecting her own sign, Leo, before expanding into the eleven remaining signs and these gold-tone brass earrings are the captivating result.

My sign: Aquarius Earrings by Givenchy

They’re sculpted in Italy as matching figures with dangling drops and come with a black grosgrain ribbon, allowing them to be alternatively worn as pendants. Style them as the focal point to a muted evening edit.

TO SHOP THE GIVENCHY ZODIAC EARRINGS, CLICK HERE TO BE TRANSFERRED DIRECTLY.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy / SSI

Yesterday Meghan Markle, now to be known as the Duchess of Sussex, enjoyed her big day as she married Prince Harry in a lovely ceremony at St. George’s Chapel in Windsor. Fashionistas all over the world had been waiting eagerly for her wedding dress to be revealed. And it was surprisingly Givenchy. Clare Waight Keller, who designed the dress, became the first female artistic director of the French Maison last year after a long time at the helm of Chloé.

Per the official statement from the Palace:

«Ms. Markle and Ms. Waight Keller worked closely together on the design. The dress epitomises a timeless minimal elegance referencing the codes of the iconic House of Givenchy and showcasing the expert craftsmanship of its world-renowned Parisian couture atelier founded in 1952.
True to the heritage of the house, the pure lines of the dress are achieved using six meticulously placed seams. The focus of the dress is the graphic open bateau neckline that gracefully frames the shoulders and emphasises the slender sculpted waist. The lines of the dress extend towards the back where the train flows in soft round folds cushioned by an underskirt in triple silk organza. The slim three-quarter sleeves add a note of refined modernity.»

The gown was surprisingly simple, but elegantly classic, with a bateau neckline, long sleeves, a drop waist and a stunning monarch-length veil which some may found quite unusual considering Meghan’s strong feminist views.

However, the five-meters long silk tulle veil had a special, symbolic meaning behind it that relates to Prince Harry’s appointment as Commonwealth Youth Ambassador and featured a unique flora from every Commonwealth country with a trim of hand-embroidered flowers.

Moreover the bride opted for a filigree tiara with a center stone for her wedding day which originally belonged to Queen Mary. It is a classic, antique piece that has long been a part of the royal collection.

For all future brides, click on the highlighted text to get her look:
Crystal and faux-pearl embellished gown by Givenchy, Rosita crystal headband by Jennifer Behr, Marie embroidered tulle veil by Needle & Thread, and
Portrait of a Lady crystal-embellished grosgrain slingback pumps by Aquazurra.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Getty Images, Courtesy of Givenchy

Natacha Ramsay-Levi is the first French woman to take the helm at Chloé since 1998. Incorporating the signature edge we saw from her at Balenciaga while maintaining Clare Waight Keller‘s sense of lightness, her debut S/S 2018 collection includes feminine dresses for which she has reworked iconic house codes, the new Rylee motorcycle boots and a new much-anticipated fragrance: Chloé Nomade. I am completely in love and you will see me wearing a lot of the French house in the next months!

My look: Appliquéd shearling-trimmed denim jacket by Gucci, paneled lace, stretch and jacquard-knit mini dress, and Rylee cutout woven leather knee boots, both by Chloé
, Bayswater shoulder bag by Mulberry, leopard sunglasses by Dolce & Gabbana, rose diamond ring and necklace, both by Piaget.

Where would you call home? Encounter the world with Chloé’s new floral chypre scent Nomade that includes notes of oak moss, Mirabelle plum and freesia. It’s about discovering your daring and adventurous side. It is all about crossing the next frontier, always pushing the boundaries of who you are. Start with the fragrance and work your way up to the collection – you will surely love it!

Chloé Nomade Eau de Parfum 30ml (CHF 97.00), 50ml (CHF 128.00) and 75ml (CHF 150.00).
Shower Gel 200ml (CHF 52.00) and Body Lotion 200ml (CHF 57.00)

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

I have just received the tragic news that another legend has left the planet. Fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy, who opened his eponymous fashion house in 1952, died past Saturday aged 91 as his partner – former haute couture designer – Philippe Venet has announced today. The couple lived in a Renaissance chateau near Paris.

«Balloon Coat», Hubert de Givenchy, 1958

The aristocratic gentleman was known for his sophisticated and ladylike chic in the 1950s and 1960s and famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy and Grace Kelly.

At the age of seventeen, he moved to Paris where he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts. Givenchy’s first designs were done for Jacques Fath in 1945. Later he did designs for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong (1946) – working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior, followed by 5 years working for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli before he opened his own design house at the Plaine Monceau in Paris in 1952.

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in 1954 film «Sabrina».

His style was marked by innovation, contrary to the more conservative designs by Dior. At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use of rather cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued curiosity through their design. Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy’s fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of «Sabrina». He went on to design the famous «little black dress» she wore in «Breakfast at Tiffany’s».

In 1961, when Audrey Hepburn got the roll of Holly Golightly, designer Hubert de Givenchy designed the famous black dress which became one of the most iconic clothing items of the 20th century.

He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L’Interdit and Le de Givenchy) and made Audrey Hepburn the face of it. For the very first time a star was the face of a fragrance’s advertising campaign and probably the last time that it was done for free, only by friendship.

At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Although a renowned designer, Givenchy not only sought inspiration from the lofty settings of haute couture but also in such avant-garde environments as Limbo, the store in Manhattan’s East Village. In 1954, Givenchy’s prêt-à-porter collection debuted.

1957 Babydoll Dress by Givenchy

The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch was acquired by LVMH in 1989. As of today, LVMH owns Parfums Givenchy as well.

De Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995. His successor to head the Givenchy label was John Galliano, followed by a five-year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julien Macdonald. As we all know, Riccardo Tisci revived the Givenchy brand tremendously from 2005 until 2017. This season, Clare Waight Keller presented her first runway show for Givenchy.

Rest in peace, Hubert de Givenchy and thank you for all those wonderful fashionable moments.
You will never be forgotten!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Getty Images

Industry speculations aren’t always so wrong as we can see now. Yesterday, Givenchy announced Clare Waight Keller, former creative director at Chloé, as the house’s new artistic director. Rumors have been out for months that she will be the first woman leading the French Maison. Waight Keller will oversee women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as haute couture with the appointment becoming effective May 2, 2017. Her first collection for S/S 2018 will be shown in Paris in October.

Clare Waight Keller with me

The British-born replaces Riccardo Tisci, who left the LVMH-owned brand in January, reportedly for Versace, though that appointment has not been made official. With 12 years at the house, Tisci, who is Italian, enjoyed the longest tenure after founder Hubert de Givenchy himself.

“HUBERT DE GIVENCHY’S CONFIDENT STYLE HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN INSPIRATION AND I AM VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO BE A PART OF THIS LEGENDARY HOUSE’S HISTORY.

I LOOK FORWARD TO WORKING WITH THE TEAMS AND WRITING A NEW CHAPTER IN THIS BEAUTIFUL STORY. “ CLARE WAIGHT KELLER

Natacha Ramsay-Levi

But who is following Wright Keller at Chloé? For the world of fashion a popular name, for others probably not: Natacha Ramsay-Levi who has been working along with Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga whom she followed 2013 to Louis Vuitton. The French-born was in a relationship with fashion «enfant terrible» and «Purple»-founder Olivier Zahm, with whom she has a son.

New year, new designer moves… let’s keep the fashion world busy!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Chloé

I have fallen in love with all the shades of Chloé’s S/S 2016 collection from the first moment I saw it. Inspired by the youthful optimism of the ’90s, Clare Waight Keller embraced an interesting color spectrum for her must-have pieces. My favorite top combines two trends, rainbow colors and off-the-shoulder. It is cut from airy silk-georgette and detailed with dip-dyed tassels. Emulate the runway styling by wearing yours with love-worn denim shorts as I did.

My look: Off-the-shoulder striped silk-georgette top by Chloé, mid-rise cut-off denim shorts by Saint Laurent, woven straw visor by Stella McCartney, nouveau python clutch, metallic fabric sandals and ruthenium-plated, Swarovski crystal and faux pearl clip earrings, all by Gucci, Tonda 1950 set clarity watch by Parmigiani Fleurier, cuff by Chanel and diamond ring by Vainard Fine Jewellery.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Great news for all fashion and art lovers! CHLOÉ has teamed up with contemporary arts organisation Studio Voltaire for a limited-edition collection of ready-to-wear that is on sale at a new Mayfair pop-up shop (upstairs, 39 to 40 Albemarle St Mayfair, London W1S 4TE), House of Voltaire, from now until December 20, 2014. Founded in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, Chloé has always encouraged and supported emerging creatives and innovative female talents, offering them a nurturing environment in which to express their ideas.

Clare Waight Keller, Chloe Creative Director and Joe Scotland, Studio Voltaire’s Director

Therefore it seemed all natural that Chloé’s creative director Clare Waight Keller recruited three female artists – Cao Fei, Karen Kilimnik and Jenny Saville – to create bespoke pieces for this special fundraising initiative. Established in 1994, Studio Voltaire was designed to support and promote both emerging and established artists, providing them with spaces to create as well as display their work.

But you don’t have to make it to London, you can also shop those limited edition pieces exclusively online at NET-A-PORTER.COM.
.

My favorite piece: Crystal-embellished crepe gown by Chloé + House of Voltaire

1 Broderie anglaise cotton top
2 Broderie anglaise cotton shorts
3 Silk-jacquard scarf

4 Dilan suede tote

“For the first time, NET-A-PORTER is offering customers around the world the chance to invest in a piece of contemporary art, whilst supporting a worthy cause,” explained the online shop’s buying manager, Ben Matthews. I couldn’t agree more… what a lovely collaboration!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Chloé and House of Voltaire, © David M. Benett/Getty Images for Chloe

Recently I was invited by Chloé to Paris for the launch of the house’s new fragrance with the beautiful name Love Story. It is inspired by Parisian romance and the love padlocks on the bridge of the Pont des Arts; the campaign itself and the bottle design make this reference. I have to admit that it was a very special trip as I took a wonderful reminder with me home.

We were asked during the presentation if we remember how it felt being newly in love and how the small things in life were amazing, how it was even exciting to drink an espresso next to each other in a café. Sometimes we forget these little special moments in our busy schedules. But reminding yourself helps a lot…

After I arrived in Paris, I went straight to the Park Hyatt Paris – Vendôme to interview the French actress and model Clémence Poésy, who already was the face of Chloé Eau de Parfum in 2008. She is modern, graceful, free-spirited and has this certain “Je ne sais quoi” allure that most French women seem to have naturally. “I am very proud to represent Chloé fragrance again,” she told me. “It was so evident for me to come back to a brand that I feel so connected to.”

Her favorite fashion labels are Chloé, ACNE and her designer friend Erdem. The blonde 31-year old only wears make-up when she has to and loves the British seaside. She seems very down to earth when she states: “Beauty comes from what you feed yourself with, how you care about people.”

After the interview, I got to see the different places where the new commercial was shot under the lens of Mélanie Laurent. Clémence Poésy stars in a love story where two people meet and indulge in the most beautiful moments.

First stop was the beautiful Pont des Arts, that has become famous for all the padlocks attached to its railing. Couples come here to “seal their love” with this romantic gesture. Afterwards they throw the key into the Seine river below. In June 2014, part of the parapet on the bridge collapsed under the weight of all of the love locks that had been attached to it.

Then we went on a boat tour on the Seine where I could explore the packaging and the bottle the first time.

After the cruise we were picked up by these lovely gentlemen for a ride in a vintage Citroën.

They brought us to the flower market where Anne Flipo, the “nose” behind the new scent Love Story waited to tell us a little more about the creation. It was very important for her to walk directly with the Chloé team to understand what they wanted to have. “Sexy and clean” was the mission. Sounds pretty contradictions but once you smell this beautiful scent you understand what it means.

Top notes: Neroli
Heart notes: Jasmin Stephanotis and Orange Blossom
Base notes: Musk and Cedarwood

A floral love story – fresh and sexy.

Anne Flipo with me

My beloved vintage Chloé sunglasses

At the rooftop party

The launch event culminated in the evening in a wonderful party over the rooftops of Paris where we enjoyed stunning views over Notre Dame, champagne and some fun dance moves. Clare Waight Keller, Creative Director of Chloé, celebrated along with Clémence Poésy, Mélanie Laurent and Anne Flipo this new declaration to femininity. Amazing women who all brought their vision to tell a beautiful story of love in a bottle.

Clare Waight Keller, Mélanie Laurent and Clémence Poésy at the party

Love Story Chloé will be available from today, September, 15 2014.
Love Story Chloé Eau de Parfum 30ml (CHF 97.00), 50ml (CHF 128.00) und 75ml (CHF 151.00),
Shower Gel 200ml (CHF 52.00) and Body Lotion 200ml (CHF 57.00).

Read more about this trip also in the upcoming October 2014 issue of L’Officiel Switzerland.

LoL, Sandra

Clare Waight Keller with me

Live performance of Christine and The Queens

Male models at the fragrance bar

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht