Sandra‘s Closet

«Embroidery is to Haute Couture what fireworks are to Bastille Day.» – François Lesage

I love CHANEL‘s Métiers d’Art collections, that are always a visual treat for the senses, showcasing the craftsmanship for which the luxury house is revered. Those runway shows take place each year outside the traditional fashion schedule.

The name itself reveals it: Métiers d’Art means «art professions». They are considered demi-couture, right between ready-to-wear and haute couture; although the designs are not bespoke, their ornamentation and craftsmanship rely on couture techniques. The collections and their elaborate themes are brought to life by the small specialist workshops that CHANEL began buying in 1984, in order to preserve the expertise and craftsmanship associated with French luxury, among them the buttons and accessory maker (Desrues), costume jewelers (Goossens), embroiderers (Lesage and Montex), feather and flower makers (Lemarié), milliners (Maison Michel), shoemakers (Massaro) and so on. Today these ateliers have become essential to the everyday running of the fashion house, providing CHANEL with everything from lace to embroidered buttons.

For the Métiers d’Art collection 2020, named Paris – 31 Rue Cambon, Virginie Viard, who was with CHANEL’s haute couture department for more than 30 years before taking the helm as the Maison’s creative director in 2019, brought the show back to the legendary designer’s apartment, creating the magnificent set-up that placed emphasis on Coco Chanel’s famous mirrored staircase.

Her favorite look of the collection was number 34, and it was also mine. It is a piece of art, created using the intricate trompe-l’œil embroidery done specifically at the ateliers of Lesage, and the attention to detail is undeniable.

The story began in 1858, when Charles Frederick Worth opened his haute couture fashion house, and started making use of the prodigious talent of the embroiderer Albert Michonet, whose studio was purchased by Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage in 1924. This was the beginning of a period of fruitful and close collaboration with the best-known names of the time. They introduced tambour embroidery to the studio using the Lunéville technique, which could respond to the voracious demand for beaded and sequinned gowns during Les Années Folles.

In 1949, on the death of his father, François Lesage (1929 – 2011) took over management of the company at the tender age of 20. For 50 years, he has cleverly combined the skills of a traditional craft with meeting the pioneering requirements of the new generation of fashion designers. In 2002, the company became part of the CHANEL family.

Coming back to Look 34, that I am wearing in this outfit post. It features the Lunéville technique that involves using a crochet hook to chain stitch small decorations (black and gold beads) to the underside of the fabric. In this case, over 25,000 gold beads and 35,000 black tube beads are used to form the embroidered braids, before the seamstresses at the tailleur atelier carefully place them along the edges and cuffs of the wool tweed jacket and trousers. The classic handbag was created to complement the look, crafted in the same red-and-black wool tweed and finished with the embroidered braid detailing all around the edges.

Why am I explaining all of this to you? Those pieces are one-off creations that continually push the boundaries to showcase the fine arts that are only alive and well today because of CHANEL’s continued patronage. If you love fashion, you will appreciate the craftsmanship of those eternal items. This look is very dear to my heart.

My look: Tweed jacket with embroidery, matching tweed pants, and classic handbag, layered pearl necklace with bows, and two-tone slingback shoes, all by CHANEL (Look 34 Métiers d’Art 2020 Paris – 31 Rue Cambon),  velvet and Leavers lace-trimmed stretch-tulle halterneck bodysuit, and gold-tone, enamel and faux pearl clip earrings, both by Saint Laurent, and Carretto-print face mask, by Dolce & Gabbana.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © David Biedert Photography
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise. 

Beyoncé wore Mary Katrantzou for the single «Water» featuring Pharrell Williams and Salatiel, in her latest visual album «Black is King», styled by Zerina Akers.

The piece was inspired by electric lightning storms and the painterly colours in the sky after rain. A mix between sunrise and sunset.

The dress is a tech-organza base, selected for its high iridescence and intense shine, printed with a multicolour «rave cloud» which has merging colours of fuchsia, peach, citrus, ocean blue and sea green.

Hundreds of laser-cut oyster ruffles are then tulle bound by hand in correlating colours, amounting to around 500 meters. These are hand tucked into place to create the perfect form of sculpted ruffles. The ruffles are print placed to make the dress bleed from colour to colour across the body.

The embroidery consists of stacked micro sequins and crystal, built up in a 3D style which give them an ombré effect. This is accompanied by thousands of singular ostrich feathers, which are hand dyed in ombré colours, grading to up to three colours in each strand. They are then matched to correlate with the perfect place in the print, to mimic the soft drift of clouds after a storm. The embroidery was partly done in India, with finishing touches by our London atelier, amounting to 7 days of embroidery work on the dress.

Beyonce wore the finale look from the F/W 2019 collection, draped around her shoulders. Also looks 34 & 35 were featured in the same video.

For bespoke enquiries please contact .

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Mary Katrantzou

Everybody will be talking about GUCCI’s embroidered denim jacket this season. And not only because Rihanna wore it recently in Los Angeles. The object of desire is from the brand’s pre-fall 2016 collection.

Personally speaking, I am anyway deeply impressed by Creative Director Alessandro Michele. With his appointment, the Italian House has gone to new strengths. Everywhere you look, you see the brand’s must-have pieces, on the streets or on many celebrities.

Embellishments, especially in the form of embroideries, play a very distinctive part in Michele’s collections. This denim jacket comes with a mix of birds, butterflies and flower applications. My favorite is the back where a huge tiger head graces the jacket along with the printed phrase graphics “l’aveugle par amour” which translates to “love is blind“. That, paired with a shearling lining, makes the piece an instant hit and will for sure turn heads this season.

TO SHOP THE EMBROIDERED DENIM JACKET, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci, Xposure

During London Fashion Week, I attended the Peter Pilotto S/S 2015 show which was one of my favorites. A colorful, fun collection for all rainbow warriors among us.

Me at the show

Technicolor tones and psychedelic cyber florals, the ’70s-tinged presentation ventured beyond prints with paisley macramé straps, black dresses decorated in neon jacquards, and handkerchief silhouettes rippling with iridescent organza.

Great news is that you can pre-order this amazing collection until October 9, 2014 at 10am EDT. In this post, I pre-selected the best pieces for you. Just click on the highlighted text to be transferred directly.

(In the cover collage: Embellished Black Denim Hendrix Mini Dress )

Pink Astro Crop Top and Pink Astro Skirt

Embellished Acid Pink Paisley Dress

Embellished White Phoenicia Dress

Embellished Hologram Tessera Dress

Embellished Multi Denim Hendrix Coat and Embellished Black Denim Rope Skirt

For my Swiss readers, check out Trois Pommes – The Store, they sell a great variety of Peter Pilotto (below you can see the designer duo at the show finale).

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Stills: Courtesy of Moda Operandi

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are a dream team and their S/S 2014 collection for Valentino is a divine piece of art (You can still watch the video here).

Like last season, when I had been already overwhelmed by their designs, they showed craftsmanship, sophistication, elegance and beauty in their 72 (!) looks on the runway. After an impromptu visit to the Rome Opera workshops, the duo was compelled to create a glamourous and opulent repertoire. The collection is a journey admits elements borrowed from imaginary ethnic groups. Embroideries, lace, capes, ponchos, fringes, leather, veil-like dresses, take all part in this outstanding collection.

Combining ancestral austerity and sensual opulence, the designer duo has created an amazing and ever-changing look based on today’s modern woman that we will surely spot everywhere on the streets next summer!

Light Cuir Vachetta Medium Stamped

Great news is that you can PRE-ORDER THE AMAZING VALENTINO ACCESSORIES STRAIGHT OFF THE RUNWAY for the next 5 days. I included the best ones in this post.
Happy pre-shopping!

LoL, Sandra

Gold Gryphon Miniaudiere

Black Vitello Fringe Ankle Boot

Light Emerald Patent Croc Scarab Finger Clutch

Black Rete Embroidered Bootie

Light Cuir Vitello Scarab And Gryphon Wrap Bracelet

Chocolate Vitello Gryphon Sandal

Rubin Studs Crown Hair Band

Photos: Courtesy of Valentino and © Sandra Bauknecht

Personally speaking, there hasn’t been one collection, Mary Katrantzou hasn’t amazed me with. This season has been no different. For the motif mistress, footwear prints walk a fine line between fashion and art. For S/S 2014, she was inspired by every woman’s love for shoes for her signature digital prints.

The collection’s evening looks were absolutely divine, and heavenly embroidered by the House of Lesage in Paris with which Mary had been working before already. Think ruffles, empire and baby doll cuts. Nothing for the shy! I am loving it!

Great news: YOU HAVE THE CHANCE TO PRE-ORDER THE MARY KATRANTZOU S/S 2014 COLLECTION STRAIGHT OF THE RUNWAY FOR THE NEXT 6 DAYS BY CLICKING HERE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Mary Katrantzou, Style.com, © Getty Images

“The easy glamour of the French Riviera in the late 1960s — inspired by Romy Schneider’s character in La Piscine — mixed with garden elements. Blueprint, botanical, lattice, Queen Anne’s lace and folly prints are paired with cleaner silhouettes and proportions in a fresh palette of green, white and coral.” — Tory Burch

Tory Burch referenced Romy Schneider in La Piscine and came up with a beautiful vintage vibe for S/S 2014. Inspired by the late 1960s, the pretty looks that came down the blue pool-like runway at New York Fashion Week last Tuesday, offered luxurious lace and florals, outstanding embroideries, botanical prints and needless to say, Tory’s iconic statement accessories.

Personally speaking, being so ultra-feminine, elegant and wearable, it is one of her best collections to date.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Tory Burch and © Sandra Bauknecht

According to Tim Blanks, the ninth-floor penthouse, where Roberto Cavalli presented his F/W 2013 men’s collection Sunday night in Milan, once belonged to the Gucci who was gunned down by his wife. Overlooking the rooftops of Milan, the spectacular views were the perfect backdrop for the outstanding presentation. Daniele Cavalli, who has been at the helmet of the menswear arm since two years, had a vision and transformed the amazing flat into a gentlemen’s club in impressive colours of purple and burgundy.

Instead of a fashion show, the collection was presented on mannequins, next to the photos and videos created by well-known photographer Rankin. I totally liked that approach as you could truly look at all the details of the looks and believe me, there were many.

Precious fabrics, from crocodile-printed pony skin to all-over sequined embroideries, of course the uniqueness of a print, and Daniele’s strongest talent, the combination of all those eye-catching details (see all the photos below please).

Daniele told me a little about his inspiration, that he used a teleidoscope, a kind of kaleidoscope, to create his very special prints, in form of kaleidoscopic patterns.

So then, no fashion shows this season. The reason?
The runway and the long walk before the public and photographers enhances and highlights the spectacular nature of feminine seduction. The same does not apply to the male essence. On the contrary, this might be the motive behind the skepticism of many men towards fashion. This collection aims at celebrating male reality.

Many famous journalists attended the event, among them Suzy Menkes…

… and Tim Blanks, who were both listening to Daniele’s vision.

Eva Cavalli chatting with Tim Blanks

Guests of the event were spoilt to all sorts of Cavalli Vodka drinks and enjoyed a musical performance of The Cyborgs. A fashion show that was more a fashion party in the world’s most stylish gentlemen’s club ever. Thumbs up!

Have fun looking at all the photos from the amazing night!

LoL, Sandra

Photographer Rankin with Alex Postiglione

Me at work in the kaleidoscopic room where the accessories were presented.

Olivier Zahm (Purple magazine) with me
Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Wander West with Isabel Marant this fall, be the first to get your hands on her cool, city-ready cowboy shirts, embroidered jeans and more covetable footwear.

For the next three days, you have the privilege to shop exclusively these F/W 2012 runway items before they are available to all customers.

Just click on the highlighted product description below each item.
Happy shopping!

LoL, Sandra

Primo printed fur jacket

Kurt suede cut-out pumps

Rodwell tasseled mid-rise skinny jeans

Manet cropped jeans

Lauryn embroidered blouse

Berry ankle boots with cut-out appliqué

Lauryn embroidered blouse

Eminoy cropped suede trousers

Loli mini skirt

Photos: Courtesy of Mytheresa

Anne Hathaway grabbed attention yesterday at the European Premiere of The Dark Knight Rises in London in a stunning  shimmering gown from Gucci’s Resort 2013 collection. The long-awaited conclusion to Christopher Nolan’s Batman trilogy is released worldwide tomorrow.

Speaking of Gucci Resort 2013, Frida Giannini seeked inspiration from a glorious 60s and 70s inspired getaway in Capri. Filled with sophisticated and elegant silhouettes, the designer plays with the iconic Flora print. The colours are divine, from vintage-like sorbet shades to earthy tones of beige, brown and black. Embroideries and embellishments on the neckline resemble a summer bouquet. I would love to have every single look!

It is so Bon Chic. Bon Genre!

LoL. Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci and © Getty Images