Sandra‘s Closet

Yesterday morning in Paris, I attended the Louis Vuitton F/W 2012 show which was the best I have ever seen (It even topped Chanel’s Paris – Bombay…).

When I arrived, I found myself inside a 1920’s inspired train station with a huge Louis Vuitton station clock hanging from the ceiling. And what looked like the runway in the middle, was actually something else…

The show started on time as usual and a gigantic gate opened, there was steam. All of a sudden, I saw rails…

…and an amazing old-fashioned train with a lot of steam rolled inside the hall. The crowd cheered and applauded. Believe me, it takes something to charm the fashionable audience.

Inside the wagon, the models were seated. You could already see the gigantic hats. The ambiance reminded me immediately of the Titanic era. The ladies looked like belonging to the upper class de-boarding the “Vuitton Express”.

THE BAGS

Each lady had a her own porter helping her to carry the oversized bags which were absolutely divine. Hat boxes, vanity cases, weekend bags and petites valises all make an appearance for everyday use. The traditional canvas Monogram finds itself trimmed in real crocodile or embroidered in sequins on a blanket wool, trimmed with box calf. The Speedy has an intense reworking this season, based on and featuring a round signature buckle.

Mink makes its way into Vuitton baggage, utilising vibrant colours to accompany its rich, sumptuous texture.

THE LOOKS

Marc Jacobs played with proportions and this collection seems to be for the tall ones among you. It is all about elongation. The clothing is layered in rich, sumptuous fabrics; long skirts over cigarette pants, long coats over all, each look topped by a tall hat. There is a certain, simple geometry to this elongation, an extended A-line to engulf the entire body.

The normal sized porters seemed tiny in comparison to the tall models. Marc Jacobs did it on purpose to reinforce the point of his towering female silhouette; the men are merely added accessories.

The materials are rich, from kangaroo leather that is patch-worked and bejewelled with plastics to heavy metal yarns replicating Afghan blanket fabrics and brocades and jacquards.

I loved Marc’s thinking about the company’s nineteenth-century origins and travel heritage. Can you believe that he started Louis Vuitton’s Prêt-à-porter collection fifteen years ago… time flies!

Marc after the show in the train

The “Vuitton Express” from inside

Me in front of the train

Bryan Boy with me, isn’t his Jil Sander hat too cute?!

Anna dello Russo

Famous guest: Sarah Jessica Parker

Another reason for my enthusiasm for this amazing, outstanding Louis Vuitton F/W 2012 show might be that it reminded me so much of a collection inspired by the Titanic era that I created during my fashion design studies.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

My Gucci adventure started on Wednesday with the F/W 2012 show in Milan. Just one word. Amazing! Frida Giannini created a dark glamour, opulent looks that were sensual and sophisticated at once, recalling the Victorian era mixed with a certain vampire allure. She even used masculine accents such as oversized shoulders and military-style coats and capes. Her very dark vision might be a welcome change after all the vibrant colour-blocking of the last seasons.

„This is modern-day romanticism. A dramatic sensuality, a dark glamour. With subtle tones of provocative intellect.“

– Frida Giannini

The materials were rich. Opulent brocade, devoré velvet and floral prints on jacquard fabrics plus beautiful 3-D embroideries on the long flowing evening gowns. Exotic animal prints on silk looked great on the runway. My favourite were the pieces that were made completely out of beautiful shimmering dark green feathers.

Colours are dark, black paired with green in different shades, plum tones and burgundy.

The accessories had a lot of equestrian references. The new Stirrup bag, roomy as well as classy, has a revisited metallic spur closure (mark it on your F/W 2012 wish list, a season’s must).

Footwear is either flat (those crocodile boots, OMG!) and masculine or slipper-like with a sharp high heel.

I am a big Gucci fan and this collection has just made me love it even a little bit more…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci

When I go, I would like to do it the Zelda Kaplan way who collapsed in her front row seat at the Joanna Mastroianni’s F/W 2012 fashion show this week in NYC and died shortly after… here’s to a fashionable life!

A longtime fixture of the NYC arts scene, Kaplan was known for her unique, African-inspired fashion style. A continent that she had visited regularly. Her social calendar was remarkable for someone half her age, but her lively spirit and energy were outstanding. Attending parties, fashion and art events up until her death, she was once called “New York’s oldest most beloved night owl” by the New York Times.

Joanna Mastroianni released the following statement after her show:
“… For the last 40 years, Zelda Kaplan has been a staple in the New York social scene. She is best known for her sense of style and her incredible joie d’vivre. She was also known for her generosity and the many charities she worked with over the years.

“We are deeply saddened to lose Zelda, such an icon of the fashion community. Zelda has been someone I have known and respected over the years. I truly admired her for her individuality and incredible spirit. She had such a love of life and believed in living everyday to its fullest. She will be sorely missed and my heartfelt condolences to her family.”

For her F/W 2012 show, Joanna Mastroianni has gone on a journey with another 90 year old “It”-Girl, famous Iris Apfel who has been the muse for this glamorous collection.

Seated front, Apfel’s wardrobe is the inspiration and only the best fabrics would do. Leather, cashmere, silk taffeta, and embroidered organza could do the deal. Joanna’s collection is all about attention to detail.

LoL, Sandra

If yesterday’s post about Chanel’s pre-fall 2011 show put you in the opulent mood and you feel like indulging yourself in some luxurious fabrics, there is no need to wait until next fall.
This F/W 2010 has been already about brocade, gold or red fabrics, embellishments and embroideries.

Alexander McQueen, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana and Oscar de la Renta, the forerunners of the festive trend, offer beautiful looks that work perfectly for your X-Mas or New Year’s Eve party.
A jacquard coat or blazer is an investment piece that can elevate your look to a complete new level of style.

I love my Alexander McQueen red goddess gown with beautiful golden embellishments that I wore recently to a gala in London together with a belt by Matthew Williamson, some sandals by YSL and a vintage Chanel clutch.
Happy Holidays!

LoL, Sandra

Just when you finished off your wardrobe for this winter and have started thinking about next summer, I am challenging you once more with something very beautiful for next year’s fall.
Who said following fashion was an easy task?!

This Tuesday was a very snowy day in Paris but the guests who enjoyed the atmosphere in the Chanel Haute Couture salons were transported to another era, time and place. Karl Lagerfeld was inspired for his pre-fall 2011 collection by Byzantium, one of Coco Chanel’s major inspirations when she was the first to launch a line of costume jewelry in the 1920s.

The Paris–Byzance Métiers d’art show broadcasted Chanel’s specialist craftsmen that the French house has gathered under its umbrella: Desrues the costume jeweler, Lemarié the feather specialist, Lesage the embroiderer, Massaro the shoe-maker, Michel the milliner, Goossens the goldsmith and Guillet the floral accessory specialist.

In a decor reminding of an Ottomanesque chill-out room with 400 metres of squined fabric covering the walls, Lagerfeld revisited the bold colors and antique golds. Byzance and its splendor embellished every look from belts adorned with square glass beads to gold running through burn-out tweed and embroidered silks.

The make-up was kept in the same color family with one star product: The cream palette is combining five different golds and is said to be limited to only 1500 pieces.

This collection is for the modern Theodora empresses who might be Chanel’s clientele of today. Celebrating Chanel’s strong heritage is surely a smart move and one key to remaining a powerhouse in the decades to come, especially with the opening of a second Chanel boutique in Istanbul.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Chanel

When I was in London recently, I visited the new headquarters of net-à-porter which are absolutely stunning.

The best part was my exclusive preview of Alexander McQueen’s exquisite F/W 2010 collection.
The late Bristish designer’s final work is a piece of art, to be taken literally and owning such a statement collector’s piece is like owning a piece of fashion history.

Have a look at my favourites and see how much work and dedication the genius put in his creations. Which one would be your cultural heritage fashionwise?

Look 2

Incrusted harness dress with bulletted duchesse skirt. The printed jacquard was inspired by 3 paintings from Heironymous Bosch entitled “Earthly paradise”, “Garden of Earthly delights”, and “Musical Hell”. The harness has an all over metal sequin embroidery inspired by Byzantine Mosaics.

Retail price £12,420.00

Look 3

Duchesse dress draped with minimal use of seams and darts to form two exaggerated pockets on the side. The embroidery is a metal based embroidery inspired by the 17th century Dutch wood carver, Grinling Gibbons. The embroidery combines bullion, threadwork, metal sequins, metal flowers, metal beading.

Retail price £7,640.00

Look 5

This is the last dress that Lee McQueen draped on the mannequin. The print is inspired by the 15th century artist Stephan Lochner’s 3 church paintings of the Inunciation. Print is on silk duchesse placed following the drape of the dress. The underskirt is made of gold painted goose feathers. This dress has a bustier as part of it’s construction.

Retail price £7,165.00

Look 12

This dress is a combination of the angel wing print translated on Duchesse and chiffon. The print is inspired by the 15th Century Flemish church painter, Hugo van der Goes. The duchesse part of the dress is very sleek with a train creating a stiffness which is softened by the airy chiffon skirt that seems as if revealed. The embroidery is a silver and light gold bullion embroidery backed unto organza.

Retail price £7,165.00

Here are some photos of the beautiful display and me enjoying every detail of those divine creations.

LoL, Sandra

The ethnic influence is undeniable this spring/summer. Numerous were the sources of inspirations that designers used for their creations. Embroideries, coloured beads, leather thongs and pompoms appeared everywhere. Embellishment is not the only important factor, to my eye the shape is essential, too. A lot of “gym bags” combined with add-on charms and tassels were seen on the runways. A leader of the trend is Marc Jacobs with his collection for Louis Vuitton.  You should definitely get your hands on one of those bags. Good luck!

LoL, Sandra