Sandra‘s Closet

Congrats to my friend Tamara Ralph on her collaboration with Audemars Piguet. Both unveiled a new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon. Inspired by the Haute Couture designer’s aesthetic merging bold femininity, boundless creativity and timeless elegance, this limited edition in 18-carat pink gold shimmers with Frosted Gold and takes on a unique palette of graded hues ranging from brown and bronze to golden tones. This collaboration, which will be revealed on 22 January 2024 during Tamara Ralph’s runway show in Paris for the S/S 2024 Haute Couture Fashion Week, celebrates the natural synergies between Haute Horlogerie and Haute Couture, while furthering the strong ties that Audemars Piguet has woven with creative worlds over the years.

Tamara and I at lunch at Gigi Ramatuelle in the summer

INSPIRING SYNERGIES
Believing in the power of creativity to feed culture, connect people and broaden horizons, the Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer has always looked to the larger world for inspiration. Over the years, the Manufacture has fostered enriching dialogues amongst fields of creative practice, including Haute Couture, with which it shares a strong commitment to uncompromising craftsmanship, precision and excellence. In 2020, Audemars Piguet began its partnership with designer Tamara Ralph, pairing several of its watches with her S/S 2021 Prêt-à-Porter collection. Pursuing their enduring relationship, Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph have collaborated this year on the design of a Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon inspired by Ralph’s Couture universe.

«My intention for the design of this piece is for it to capture the spirit and craftsmanship ofboth my brand as well as Audemars Piguet. The complications of watchmaking orchestrate a foundation which can be played with in terms oftextures, colours and designs, allowing for the savoirfaire of couture to shine through. Rich materials, unique colour palettes and ultimate precision are combined, creating an exquisite limited edition of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, inspired by Haute Couture.»
Tamara Ralph – Creative Director and Founder of Tamara Ralph

A REFINED PLAY OF TEXTURES AND LIGHT
The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon «Tamara Ralph» Limited Edition showcases an 18-carat pink gold case adorned with Frosted Gold. This ancient Florentine jewellery technique was revisited by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci and adapted by Audemars Piguet artisans in 2016 to decorate the Manufacture’s timepieces. Tiny indentations are created on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, giving a sparkle effect similar to that of precious stones. lts visual power is accentuated by the polished bevel outlining the octagonal bezel, while the case’s satin-brushed flanks provide added contrast. The juxtaposition of finishing techniques-a meticulous operation which required perfect alignment between the hammered, brushed and polished surfaces-gives sumptuous texture to the case, while bestowing it with endless plays of light. For its part, the caseback’s glareproofed sapphire crystal is held in place by an 18-carat pink gold octagonal frame, finished with satin brushing and polished chamfers and engraved with «Royal Oak Concept Limited Edition.» Lastly, the hexagonal crown, whose shape recalls the stainless steel screws punctuating the bezel, also plays with light thanks to its satin-brushed and polished finishing. lts translucent cabochon-cut sapphire adds yet another touch of feminine elegance to the case design.

A HARMONY OF COLOURS AND LAYERS
The multi-layered dial takes inspiration from the bold femininity and textured detailing of Tamara Ralph’s Couture creations. lt is composed of four overlapping circular pink gold plates, creating a ripple effect as they emanate from the flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock. Each layer presents a different colour, evolving from brown in the centre to bronze in the middle, to reach golden tones towards the dial’s extremity. While the brown and golden colours have been achieved through galvanic treatment, the bronze layer is covered with bronze lacquer. The dial is finished with a continuous sunburst satin-finishing radiating from the hands outwards, in seamless alignment from one plate to the other. Pushing details to the limit, each plate is adorned with a thin diamondpolished gold thread that adds depth to the dial. Matching with the circular, multi-layered architecture of the dial, the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock merges technical mastery with sophisticated aesthetic.

The cage’s upper frame incorporates three rings radiating from a decentred disc paved with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 0.04 carats). lts pink-gold-toned hue echoes the 18- carat pink gold hour and minute hands, both filled with luminescent coating for optimum legibility in the dark. At 12 o’clock, the applied pink gold AP monogram adds the final touch. Hour-markers have been left out to accentuate the purity and harmony of the dial design. The timepiece comes with a bronze-toned hand-stitched «large square scale» alligator strap. lt is also supplied with an additional brown alligator strap recalling the centre of the dial for a refined look. The two straps are decorated with a pearly finishing adding subtle elegance and glamour. The timepiece’s glittering hues and intricate details will catch the eye from up close and afar, just like a Couture piece would.

I am absolutely in love with this timepiece!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet and © Sandra Bauknecht
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A true demonstration of the craftsmanship and expertise of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the two new Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon «Poinçon de Genève» complete the colour palette of this exceptionally transparent family of watches.

This year, the watches, crafted from single blocks of synthetic sapphire, will come in fluorescent green or yellow cases. These transparent creations are true feats of technical and artistic know-how, the first of their kind in the history of watchmaking to bear Geneva Seal. They herald a new era, revealing all the secrets of their skilfully openwork Manufacture movement driven by a flying tourbillon.

There is great potential in using cases cut from a block of coloured synthetic sapphire. This pure and precious mineral is obtained by heating aluminium oxide at temperatures of around 2000° Celsius. Ever since the early 20th century, when this manufacturing process was invented by French chemist Auguste Victor Louis Verneuil (1856-1913), the watch industry has been using it to produce rubies for mechanical movements. By dint of progress in its development during the 1980s, the industry succeeded in producing the first sapphire crystals for sports watches and, a decade later, the first complete cases.

Virtually unalterable like pure gold or platinum, with a hardness only surpassed by diamonds, synthetic sapphire is one of those precious materials over which time has no control. La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton immediately grasped its potential, using it to protect the LV90 calibre from external stresses. It provides an impenetrable barrier to all but the eye and ensures that the exceptional openwork movement, regulated by a flying tourbillon, will have a virtually unlimited life span, provided that it receives regular care.

The Manufacture’s engineers have been experts in its application ever since the launch of the Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon «Poinçon de Genève» watches in clear, blue and pink sapphire. This year, these artists, a bit of alchemists, have found the right formulas and the purest metal oxides in secretly guarded proportions.
They have created two new exceptional pieces with daringly translucent shades, so intense that they give the impression of being fluorescent. The first features an electric yellow sapphire case and the second comes in warm green accents.

To obtain a case middle, a case-back and a bridge bearing the LV logo in a strictly identical colour for each watch, a cylinder, 50 mm in diameter and 150 mm long, had to be extracted from the centre of a block of mass-tinted sapphire from Japan weighing nearly 200 kg. Each component is therefore cut from this sapphire crystal bar using diamond tools to obtain the pieces final dimensions. All the elements are then delicately polished to reveal their transparency and the richness of the two meticulously selected colours.

The entire synthetic sapphire case of each watch requires 420 hours of complex operations on digitally controlled machines working with diamond tools. The 10 mm thick monobloc part alone, comprising the case middle, the bezel and the glass, requires 100 hours of milling and 150 hours of polishing. The case back needs 50 hours of machining and 60 hours of hand and machine finishing to become fully transparent and ready for assembly. Finally, the transparent bridge bearing the LV logo takes 20 hours of cutting and 40 hours of manual finishing to let the light pass through flawlessly.

Constant and meticulous attention is given to every detail throughout the entire manufacturing process. The 12 letters forming LOUIS VUITTON are engraved on the outer side of the concave case middle of the Tambour Moon, which appeared in 2017. Like the indexes on the bezel flange, whose design gives the timepiece a very open face, they are delicately lacquered in white for the green sapphire version, and black for the yellow sapphire model. The two horns, in black PVD-treated titanium, are attached by screws. Finally, to protect the delicate movement from external stresses, this 42.5 mm case with a thickness of 9.9 mm is guaranteed water- resistant up to 30 metres. This is achieved via a transparent gasket positioned between the case middle and the screw-down case back.

Everything on this timepiece has been carefully considered, right down to the appearance of the hands, which are light and hollowed out, floating over the circles from which they seem to spring. Like the previous versions of the Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire, these two spectacularly light and transparent watches are, to date, the only models in the world to have a sapphire case and bear the Geneva Seal. Their sheer complexity means they are produced in very limited series every year.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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Ladies, are you ready for a high-watchmaking novelty. Meet the other side of sweetness as Louis Vuitton demonstrates its advanced mastery in horological automata with a new feminine timepiece.
Introducing the first in-house self-winding automaton movement, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is a distillation of high-watchmaking savoir-faire, enacted by Louis Vuitton’s specialist movement workshop La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. Under the candy-bright hues and alluring textures of an engraved grand feu enamel dial, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata bears a movement of formidable ingenuity and pin-sharp precision. The aesthetic of Louis Vuitton’s latest creation hides a piercing intellect, reminding us that nulla rosa sine spini; there is no rose without its thorn.

A Mechanism In Full Bloom
High watchmaking at Louis Vuitton flowered at the beginning of the 21st century, leading up to the creation of a small handful of bespoke automaton timepieces
for special clients. In 2021, the Maison communicated about this side of the brand’s in-house watchmaking expertise for the first time. Louis Vuitton’s next stride in the realm of automaton timepieces continues to explore the theme of blended passion and savoir-faire.

The motif of a rose and its entwined thorny vines has been taken further than the Maison initially broached in the enamel-dial Escale Spin Time Only Watch (2019). Motion and dynamism define the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, but even more provocative is the revelation that lies beneath the lush petals and glossy heart of its dial, the first in-house enamel dial from Louis Vuitton. At the push of a button at the 8 o’clock position, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata blooms under the touch of its wearer, in a lush profusion of dial animations.

Beware Of Thorns
Time can be dangerous, according to the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, where the hours and minutes are told by thorn-armoured hands on a subdial encircled by inward-facing briars. Those who take time for granted, or let their attention wander, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata seems to say, may soon find themselves in a prickly situation. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock provides the rhythmic pulse of the watch, marking out the seconds over the course of its one- minute rotation.
At 9 o’clock, a flaming heart, symbol of piety, is emblazoned with the word «SWEET» and crowned with a golden circlet of Louis Vuitton Monogram flowers. A hidden power throbs within the heart, revealed when the pusher at 8 o’clock, set with adamantine gems, is actuated.

Around the hours-and-minutes subdial, an external halo of thorns emerges and extends radially outwards. The enamel roses (one at 12 o’clock and another
at 4 o’clock) are not the demure botanicals they first appeared to be; they have found new vitality, with spinning Monogram flowers at their centers, diamond pistils firing rays of refracted light. The blazing heart roars to life, its flames dancing as if fanned by an invisible gale. The heart cracks open, a jagged fissure revealing that the soothing legend engraved on the heart now comes with a bold caveat: «SWEET BUT FIERCE».

A World Of Mechanical Expression
If knowledge is power, then knowledge (or know-how) that only you have becomes the most powerful thing of all. The unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in innovative horological automata is expressed in one of the most mechanically impressive creations of the Maison to date: the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata. Five separate dial elements form the automaton array of the watch, leaping simultaneously into action when the pusher at 8 o’clock is actuated. The radially extruding thorns surrounding the outer circumference of the hours-and- minutes subdial. The two Monogram flowers at the center of the enamel roses at 4 and 12 o’clock rotate simultaneously. One starts its course clockwise while the other moves in the opposite direction. After a short pause, the two flowers perform the opposite dance. The articulated heart that cracks open to reveal the full message «SWEET BUT FIERCE». Lastly, the gold tongues of fire at the top of the heart that undulate in simulation of real flames.

This unprecedented display of horological virtuosity is the result of three years of research and development within Louis Vuitton’s high-watchmaking atelier. Subtle signs in the movement design and finish indicate that the calibre LFT 325 has been constructed expressly for the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata — a dedicated movement being a time-honoured indication of horological prestige. The micro-blasted movement bridges are decorated with thorny rose stems in pink-gold, sinuously embracing the exposed wheels visible through openworked sections. The 18K pink-gold rotor is also engraved and openworked with Monogram Flowers, as is the automaton regulator bridge at 12 o’clock. The history of the dial continues, sculpting the shapes of the movement. The dance
of colors and the seductive play of textures continue, requiring long hours of research and development to achieve the softness of the gray contrasting with the brilliance of the pink gold. The search for colors, the work on materials and the attention to detail testify to the precision and extreme meticulousness necessary to achieve such a level of finish.

The flying tourbillon frequently makes an appearance in the fine-watchmaking segment of Louis Vuitton timepieces, but the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata
is the first time this mechanism has been combined with a self-winding movement with dial-side automata. As the automaton is driven by its own dedicated mainspring, the flying tourbillon is able to maintain high levels of chronometric performance throughout the 65 hours of movement power reserve. The challenge of synchronising the dial animations of the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata has been answered by the cumulative expertise and experience of the movement development team at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, led by master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas. While the dial springs into action as if by magic, a glimpse behind the curtain is afforded by the open caseback.

In the upper right quadrant of the movement, an openworked bridge allows a tantalising view of the automaton mainspring, driving wheels and regulator. This complex assembly feeds energy to the seven dial automata, coordinates their running times and also controls the speed at which they operate. On the dial, each graceful motion of the automata, from the opening of the heart and revelation of the secret message, to the spinning Monogram Flowers, the dancing flames and the emerging thorns, is precisely calibrated to produce a 13-second symphony of mechanical excellence, seen nowhere else in the world except on the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata.

Art, Glass, Fire
The grand feu enamel dial of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata represents an important step for the Maison in terms of in-house savoir-faire — the integration of a millennia-old artisanal craft. The alchemy of grand feu enamel starts with the powdered silica, finely ground by hand and combined with various metal oxides that impart colour to the final result. After the enamel powder is applied to a prepared surface, it is fired in a kiln at temperatures between 700°C and 1,200°C, vitrifying the enamel. This brings out the intense and durable colours that have made grand feu enamel the decorative technique of choice for timepieces over the centuries.

On the dial of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, a combination of champlevé and cloisonné enamel is used to illustrate the various aesthetic elements. The former involves removing material from the dial surface, creating a space where enamel powder can be deposited. The latter requires the use of thin gold wires, meticulously shaped by hand and fixed onto the dial surface, creating closed cells which can then be filled with enamel. The art of grand feu enamel requires a delicate touch, years of experience and a highly disciplined — and, indeed, technical — approach. After working with some of the most revered enamel artists today, such as the legendary Anita Porchet, who created the dial of the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time Only Watch, the Maison now counts this rare craft as part of its in- house savoir-faire, under the expert hand of its master enameller.

Beauty emerges, refined and transcendent, from the crucible of horological knowledge and combined expertise at Louis Vuitton. The Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is the multi-layered result of the Maison’s approach to fine watchmaking, now elevated to unprecedented levels in all 169 years of Louis Vuitton history.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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