Sandra‘s Closet

Yesterday evening, I was invited by Dior to an intimate ladies dinner at Hotel Widder in Zurich to watch live the Dior Cruise 2021 from Lecce. The way fashion shows are presented has changed due to  the current pandemic, but the excitement stays the same.

The collection was revealed with poetry and enchantment, behind closed doors in the emblematic Piazza del Duomo, in the heart of Lecce, Puglia, a region close to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s heart. Spanning fashion, traditional craftsmanship and committed contemporary art, the silhouettes appeared amid a spellbinding scenography illuminated by the mesmerizing glimmer of Luminarie, fanciful traditional light installations reinterpreted here by Marinella Senatore.

A summer landscape with Baroque architecture bathed in sunlight, Lecce is more than just a dream destination. For her cruise collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri pays homage to this land of the heart and its virtuoso craftsmanship. An enchanting ode to Italy – a country Christian Dior celebrated as early as 1947 – which has become a constant source of inspiration, a passionate creative history.

«During this period, I sought to give collective efforts a new dimension. Despite the disadvantages of distance, bringing a different perspective to our daily lives has given us strength and imagination,» says Maria Grazia Chiuri, who for this Cruise show has chosen to reconnect her creative passion with the region of Puglia, a place close to her heart. Texts by the anthropologist Ernesto De Martino dedicated to the region’s traditions – which have influenced authors including Germano Celant and Georges Didi-Huberman – led her to explore their roots. Puglia and its different energies, where magical beliefs such as Tarantism (disease or form of hysteria that appeared in Italy in the 15th to the 17th century and that was obscurely associated with the bite of the tarantula spider; victims seemingly were cured by frenzied dancing) live on, have become in this particular context a concrete form of utopia, a new reading of the world.

A true celebration of Puglia’s traditional arts and crafts, the Dior Cruise 2021 collection highlights the excellence of these priceless skills. The 90-look collection was proof how one can combine the bohemian and the haute. There were pinafore dresses, blanket-fringe skirts, and hand-knit sweaters, models wore handkerchiefs in their hair combined with flat boots. and of course there was another Book Tote. When you look closer, you will detect the embroideries and craftsmanship that went into every single outfit. The handmade natural leather corsets added this certain twist that I adore. A really beautiful collection that will hit the stores in October 2020.

LoL, Sandra

 

Photos: © Dior and © Sandra Bauknecht

«An important part of my life designing installations, spaces and experiences is actually spent putting out fires! I thought it was time to celebrate that fire…and help put the Art World on fire too! So I chose to show only burnt art and art relating to fire from the fantastic Gmurzynska collection, and create for these an environment that is pop and thematic, inspired by the beautiful look of fire stations, as a boy dreaming of them, pop and joyful, yet modern, minimal and fairly neutral, to enhance the viewing of such important art. It is made of traditional industrial materials, lacquered diamond steel plates and fire extinguishers, but reinterpreted to serve their new purpose in a luxurious manner.» Alexandre de Betak

Having presented a Karl Lagerfeld designed booth in 2011 at FIAC, Galerie Gmurzynska – the leading international art gallery specializing in masterpieces of both classic modern and post-war art – is returning to the fair with a visionary installation by French designer, scenographer and creative director Alexandre de Betak, who is mostly known for his involvement in the production of Victoria’s Secret shows, which he has producing and choreographing for many years.

Sketch by Karl Lagerfeld, FIAC 2011, Galerie Gmurzynska’s booth design

2003 marked de Betak’s debut in design, when he created an acrylic glass bookshelf and a leather bench with French design house Domeau & Perez. Moreover, he is known for various collaborations with important museums, among others the MOCA in Los Angeles and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

Preparatory rendering by Alexandre de Betak, FIAC 2018

Since its discovery, fire has been the propelling force of innovation, civilization and ultimately cultural advancement. Artists throughout the history of art have been drawn to its ethereal power to destroy, create, cleanse and illuminate.

Roberto Matta, Les Fumoïsses, 1973

The survey exhibition «On Fire» will include a diverse list of artists using or depicting fire in all forms throughout the 20th Century, from Joan Miró to Otto Piene, Yves Klein, Alberto Burri, Roberto Matta up to Tom Wesselmann and others. A booklet with an introduction by Germano Celant will be accompanying the exhibition.

Mathias Rastorfer at the booth with Alexandre de Betak

Isabelle Bscher at the opening party with Francesco Vezzoli

On Wednesday evening, the opening party of the gallery took place next to the Seine with a huge fire installation by Alexandre de Betak. The gallery owners Isabelle Bscher, Krystyna Gmurzynska and Mathias Rastorfer and star designer Alexandre de Betak welcomed actor Vincent Cassel, not only since his role as Vincent van Gogh in «Loving Vincent», an art fanatic, Parisian model and author Caroline de Maigret, star photographer Ellen von Unwerth, hotel guru André Balazs and actor and artist André Saraiva, the u.a. also designed for Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Tiffany and Converse, the Italian concept artist and filmmaker («Multimedia Popartist»), Francesco Vezzoli and Michel Gaubert, the best sound designer in the fashion world with clients such as Gucci, Fendi, Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, and Chanel.

Galerie Gmurzynska @ FIAC: OCTOBER 18 – 21, 2018 Booth 0.C24
When the world of fashion meets the world of art, there is fire…

LoL, Sandra

André Balazs and André Saraiva

Ellen von Unwerth

Vincent Cassel

Photos: Courtesy of Galerie Gmurzysnka