Sandra‘s Closet

Another great talent has left us. French fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier (21 August 1943 – 31 March 2022) has died today. His imagery helped write the history of 1990s fashion.

Born near Paris in 1943 to a modest family, Demarchelier spent his childhood in Le Havre, Normandy, with his mother and four brothers. His profession was self-taught. For his seventeenth birthday, his stepfather bought him his first camera. Demarchelier learned how to develop film, retouch negatives and began photographing friends and weddings.

Natalia Vodianova in Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci.
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue, October 2008

In 1975, Demarchelier left Paris for New York City, United States to follow his girlfriend. He discovered fashion photography by working as a freelance photographer learning from, and working with photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Terry King, and Jacque Guilbert. Since the late 1970s he shot the covers for nearly every major fashion magazine including American, British and Paris Vogue, as well as Harper’s Bazaar. He also shot international advertising campaigns for Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, TAG Heuer, CHANEL, Donna Karan, Yves Saint Laurent, Tommy Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Moschino, Vera Wang, Elizabeth Arden, H&M, Sam Edelman, Zara, Max Azria, Express, Longchamp, Blumarine, Lacoste, Ann Taylor, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.

Lady Diana photographed by Patrick Demarchelier in 1990

However, he is perhaps best known for his intimate portraits of Princess Diana that helped establish her popularity and accessible public image.

In 2007, Christine Albanel, French Minister of Culture, honoured Demarchelier as an Officer in l’ordre des Arts et des Lettres (Order of Arts and Literature), the same year that he received the CFDA Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert. Demarchelier also appeared in the film «The September Issue» and can be glimpsed in «The Sex & the City movie».

With his son Victor, who works also as a photographer.

Despite a rich and deep legacy, in 2018 amidst the #MeToo reckoning, Demarchelier was accused by seven models who worked with him of sexual harassment. In response to the allegations, Condé Nast announced: «We have informed Patrick we will not be working with him for the foreseeable future. Demarchelier denied the allegations.» However, he had never been charged and denied the allegations.

Demarchelier is survived by his wife Mia, his three sons, and three grandchildren.

LoL, Sandra

30 years later, still one of my favorite Vogue covers of all times, famous supermodels on the magazine’s 100th anniversary cover. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue US, April 1992

Christy Turlington in Azzedine Alaïa.
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue US, May 1991

Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Harper’s Bazaar US, May 1998

Christy Turlington 
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Harper’s Bazaar US, July 1999

Photos: Via Vogue Harper’s Bazaar, Sothebys © Patrick Demarchelier

Today, three years ago, I published my first post and Sandra’s Closet was born. My blog has taken me on such a beautiful adventure. I would like to thank you all for following me and supporting my work. Without you, the success wouldn’t have been possible.

This year was so exciting for me, I walked in my first runway show during Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, designed a T-shirt in collaboration with Closed and hosted a beautiful dinner at my house for the new Caviar & Oyster collection by Bobbi Brown. There were so many other highlights, it would take too long to name them all. A very big one will follow this year, stay tuned for an event with Montblanc in December to celebrate the launch of something truly amazing. To whet your appetite, there has never been anything like it…

Below are some press features of me during Paris Fashion Week that I have meant to show since a pretty long time. Enjoy!

Featured in Marie Claire: Me in Mary Katrantou’s beautiful Ivory dress.

Featured in Marie Claire: Me at the last day of Paris Fashion Week.

This look was also seen in Harper’s Bazaar.

French Vogue showed some details of my look that I wore to the Valentino S/S 2013 show.

Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis wrote in her column for American Vogue about our fun trip to Mary Katrantzou’s showroom (all the details to be posted soon).

The gang: Eugenie Niarchos, Sandra Bauknecht, Elena Perminova, Miroslava Duma, Mary Katrantzou, Tamu McPherson, Elisa Nalin, Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis and Viviana Volpicella.

Featured on Treetslook at the Stella McCartney S/S 2013 show.

OMG! On Fausto Puglisi’s website, I am featured among celebrities such as Beyoncé, Katy Perry and Madonna. Scroll through!

This weekend, I will publish some amazing contests. Please stay tuned to find out more about the great prizes that you can win during the next two days.

LoL, Sandra

Tomorrow, May 14, “Kaiser Karl” will reign over the world of fashion once more. Lagerfeld will show his Resort 2013 collection for Chanel at Versailles. Of course, it will be a big production, but all details are still under wraps. Past Chanel Resort shows have been presented at the Lido in Venice (Resort 2010), and one of my favourites, in St. Tropez (Resort 2011). Their locations usually bewray the inspiration for the collection.

Versailles was the famous place where the French royal family ruled in extravagance for 100 years before the French Revolution. What does come to your mind? As for me, I could only think of excess, rich fabrics, opulence.

 I am truly curious what Karl Lagerfeld has been thinking of.  If anyone is up to the task to pay tribute to Marie Antoinette or to revive those decadent moments in time, it is definitely him. I am sure that he will surprise us as the setting has to be different from his S/S 2011 Chanel show that was based on Versailles’s extensive gardens (see above).

If you look in fashion history, this won’t be the first time Versailles has been used for a show.

In 2007, John Galliano rented out the palace for a huge spectacle – Dior‘s 60th anniversary couture show.

In 1973, five upcoming US-designers, Anne Klein, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta faced off against French couturiers Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, and Emanuel Ungaro in a runway spectacle that became known as the Battle of Versailles.

The French designers were certain of victory, due to their long tradition and know-how. But the Americans had a secret weapon; a vibrant group of eight African-American models plus the wish to conquer the European world of fashion. And the celebrity-packed audience of 800, including a tiara-wearing Princess Grace cheered to their performance. It was that chilly night changed the face and colour of fashion forever.

There have also been numerous fashion editorials photographed at Versailles over the years.

Above:
1 Shalom Harlow by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994
2 Diane Krüger by Gilles Marie Zimmerman for Paris Match March 2012
3 Trish Goff by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994

Please enjoy this little summary of some of the most beautiful ones, along with other palace-set shoots by Karl Lagerfeld himself.

Jessica Stam and Snejana Onopka by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar Romania November 2007

Gisele Bündchen by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar June 2007

Vanessa Paradis by Karl Lagerfeld for Tatler Russia July 2012

Stay tuned for the photos of the Chanel Resort 2013 show.

LoL, Sandra