Breaking News

What a whirlwind of events! While filming in Istanbul with little time to spare, the fashion world delivered a major surprise: John Galliano announced his departure from Maison Margiela after a decade at the helm of the OTB-owned brand.

John Galliano

In a heartfelt Instagram post, Galliano shared the news, writing, «Today is the day I say goodbye to Maison Margiela… I am forever grateful for this safe space to create and build a new family that supports me with courage and dignity.» He extended his thanks to his atelier team and Renzo Rosso, OTB’s chairman.

The move marks the end of an era for the house, originally established by the famously reclusive Martin Margiela. The brand gave Galliano the opportunity to rebuild his career and reputation following his controversial exit from Dior in 2011. Over the years, Galliano transformed Margiela with his signature theatricality, camp-infused creations, and innovative, deconstructed designs. He also championed gender-fluid fashion and elevated the brand’s «Artisanal» line to unprecedented levels of craftsmanship.

Me in the Maison Margiela Haute Couture studio after the amazing show in the beginning of the year, which is just next to Galliano’s office.

Under his leadership, Margiela saw significant commercial success, with a 22% rise in sales in 2023, even as the broader luxury market faced challenges. His legacy was solidified with a sensational January 2024 show in Paris, where historical couture-inspired characters roamed a haunting, mist-filled space under a bridge, complete with striking, mask-like makeup by Pat McGrath. Galliano leaves behind a storied chapter in Margiela’s history.

Galliano did not elaborate on his future plans, instead saying that «when the time is right, all will be revealed

Matthieu Blazy for CHANEL

I was hoping that he would be appointed at CHANEL but today the French Maison announced Matthieu Blazy as its new creative director, succeeding Virginie Viard, who departed in June. Blazy, formerly the creative head at Bottega Veneta, is recognized for his craftsmanship and innovative designs. His appointment is anticipated to infuse fresh energy into the French Maison’s iconic aesthetic. Blazy is expected to present his inaugural collection for CHANEL during Paris Fashion Week in October 2025. 

Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta

Meanwhile in the past hours, Louise Trotter has been announced as the new creative director of Bottega Veneta, taking over from Matthieu Blazy. Known for her transformative work at brands like Lacoste and Carven, Trotter brings a refined design aesthetic and a strong sense of cultural awareness to the role. She is set to start at the luxury house in January 2025, making her the only woman currently leading a brand under Kering’s ownership. This appointment highlights her unique vision and the potential for a fresh chapter at Bottega Veneta.

One of the conglomerate’s biggest fashion brands, Fendi, has yet to name a new womenswear designer after Kim Jones stepped down from the role in October. I guess that Galliano will head up there. These significant shifts reflect the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, with Galliano, Blazy and Trotter poised to shape new creative directions in their respective roles.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands / © Sandra Bauknecht
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Visiting Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams

Already in April this year, I had the the pleasure to visit one of the most beautiful exhibitions ever, a must for every fashion lover: Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. This retrospective celebrates the founding couturier’s avant-garde spirit and the international destiny of his House, shepherded, after his passing in 1957, by the talent of the Creative Directors who succeeded him.

You still have one week left to indulge in the universe of the French Maison as the exhibition has been extended to September 1st after it sold out within 19 days of its opening.

ABOUT CHRISTIAN DIOR

Christian Dior was born into a wealthy Normandie family in the French seaside town of Granville on January 21, 1905. As a child he shared his mother’s love of gardens. is early passions included architecture and designing fancy dress costumes for his friends. Sent by his parents to study political science in Paris, Dior gravitated towards a bohemian group of friends, including composer Henri Sauguet and artist Christian Bérard.

In 1928, he opened and art gallery, but the business foundered when the Dior family fortune collapsed following the 1929 financial crisis. Forced to find a new way to make a living, Dior took up fashion drawing, eventually working with top couturiers Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong.

In 1946, Dior founded his own couture house with the backing of textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac. On 12 February 1947, the House of Dior launched its first collection. Dubbed the «New Look» by the press, the collection had an instant and unparalleled influence on fashion around the world. The House of Dior grew rapidly. By 1955 it accounted for over 50% of overseas exports of French haute couture.

In the prime of his career, Christian Dior died suddenly on 24 October 1957. His legacy has continued under the creative directors who have succeeded him at the head of the House of Dior: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri.

THE EXHIBITION

Based on the highly successful Musée des Arts Décoratifs exhibition Christian Dior: Couturier du Rêve (on view from 5 July 2017 to 7 January 2018), the show charts seven decades of the continuing importance, influence and creativity of the House of Dior in the fashion world, with an additional section showcasing the story of Dior in Britain.

The famous «Bar Suit» and hat, Haute Couture S/S 1947

Drawn from the extensive Dior Archives, the exhibition presents over 500 objects, with over 200 rare Haute Couture garments shown alongside accessories, fashion photography, film, vintage perfume, original make-up, illustrations, magazines, and Christian Dior’s personal possessions. Unfolding across eleven themes, this unique event invites visitors to immerse themselves inside Christian Dior’s world, tracing the highlights of his life, from his childhood to the creation of his couture house at the end of 1946. A voyage through time that continues with the starring role played by such timeless icons as the eternal «Bar Suit», and legendary looks designed by the visionary tastemaker the couturier was.

Celebrating the Dior art of color, accessories, hats, bags, illustrations, miniature dresses, lipsticks and emblematic fragrances together form a spectrum of colors dear to Christian Dior and, in turn, enrich this exciting encounter with the House. The culmination of this immersive exploration, an exhibit called «Le Salon» showcases the splendor of society soirées, illustrated by spectacular dresses that testify to the virtuosity and savoir-faire of excellence of the Dior haute couture ateliers.

THE NEW LOOK

Christian Dior unveiled his first haute couture collection on 12 February 1947, amid excited anticipation within fashion circles. Offering a radical alternative to the boxy, masculine style of women’s fashion after the Second World War, Dior’s designs caused a sensation. Carmel Snow, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar, declared: « It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian, your dresses have such a new look!» The Dior Line showcases ten defining looks made between 1947 and 1957, Christian Dior’s own tenure at the House.

DIOR IN BRITAIN

Exactly to this day, 72 years before, on 26 August 1947, a small group of people stood together in London’s Claridge’s Hotel, hovering around a smartly dressed middle-aged man holding a trilby hat. The celebrated couturier Christian Dior, who just six months earlier had revolutionized fashion with its first «New Look» collection, was in the process of being ambushed by the press. One journalist grilled him as to how he was able to persuade a world short of fabric to embrace his audacious new fashions, to which Dior replied: «I am giving the women the dresses they want. They’re fed up with war restrictions… My full skirts are a release

«I adore the English, dressed not only in tweeds which suit them so well, but also in those flowing dresses, in subtle colours, which they have worn inimitably since the days of GainsboroughChristian Dior, 1957.

Christian Dior designed this couture dress in 1951 specially for the 2st birthday of Princess Margaret.

In his autobiography, Dior affirmed his love for all things English. He was particularly enamoured with the English aristocracy and he admired the grandeur of the great houses and gardens of Britain, as well as British-designed ocean liners, including the Queen Mary, and Savile Row suits.

HISTORICISM

Christian Dior often cited historic periods in his designs – the sinus lines of Belle Époque dresses from the late 1800s and early 1900s: the tightly waisted mid-nineteenth-century styles worn by the French Empress Eugénie, Napoléon III’s wife. The sumptuous silks and dramatic silhouettes of the eighteenth century held a particular fascination. Dior’s premises at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris had a neo-classical façade, medaillon-backed chairs, and white and grey panelling like that of Petit Trianon at Versailles, a colour Dior is said to have revived.

«I thank heaven I lived in Paris in the last years of the Belle EpoqueChristian Dior, 1957

In front of one of my favorite Dior dresses, Look 24 from the F/W 2004 Haute Couture collection by John Galliano.

TRAVEL

Travels explore how travel and different countries and cultures have consistently inspired the various designers at the House of Dior. This section focuses on five of the countries that provided a source of reference for Christian Dior and his successors at the House of Dior: Mexico, India, Egypt, Japan and China.

THE GARDEN

Flowers are emblematic of the Maison and have inspired silhouettes, embroidery and prints, but also the launch of Miss Dior in 1947, the first fragrance created alongside the very first show.
From horticulture to global travel and historicism, the show reveals the sources of inspiration that defined the House of Dior’s aesthetic.

Look 47 from the F/W 2012 Haute Couture collection by Raf Simons for Dior. It was worn by actress Natalie Portman, the face of Miss Dior perfume.

DESIGNERS FOR DIOR

Designers for Dior spotlights the work of the subsequent six key artistic directors since Christian Dior’s death in 1957.

Since 1957 the House of Dior has been led by:
Yves Saint Laurent 1958-60
Marc Bohan 1960-89
Gianfranco Ferré 1989-96
John Galliano 1996-2011 
Raf Simons 
2012-15
Maria Grazia Chiuri 2016 to present
Each creative director has brought a new perspective.

THE ATELIERS

The Ateliers showcases toiles from the Dior Ateliers in a stunning «cabinet of curiosity» style.

«Everything created by human hands expresses something – above all the personality of the creator. The same thing is true with a dress. But since so many people are working on it, the real job is to get all the hands that cut, sew, try on and embroider to express all I have feltChristian Dior, 1954

DIORAMA

Diorama examines the breadth of the House of Dior, from accessories including costume jewellery, hats, shoes and bags, to illustrations, miniature dresses and archive lipstick and perfume, bottles, collected in a kaleidoscopic display. This section spotlights the key creative partners of the House from the past 70 years, including Roger Vivier Stephen Jones, René Gruau, Serge Lutens and Swarovski, Christian Dior’s first choice for crystals to embellish his creations.

How cool! My own outfit was part of the exhibition.

THE BALLROOM

Drawing on his love of costume, it was in his evening dresses and ball gowns that Dior could indulge his imagination and showcase the diverse skills of the haute couture ateliers. Until today, a Dior gown, synonymous with allure and opulence, demonstrates the formidable talents and techniques of Parisian haute couture. It is no wonder that such striking creations have graced numerous red carpets as the choice of film stars and prominent personalities over the past seven decades.

I hope that you have enjoyed following me on my tour through this beautiful exhibition.

LoL, Sandra

Photos taken of the exhibition: © Sandra Bauknecht

Hubert de Givenchy Dead at 91

I have just received the tragic news that another legend has left the planet. Fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy, who opened his eponymous fashion house in 1952, died past Saturday aged 91 as his partner – former haute couture designer – Philippe Venet has announced today. The couple lived in a Renaissance chateau near Paris.

«Balloon Coat», Hubert de Givenchy, 1958

The aristocratic gentleman was known for his sophisticated and ladylike chic in the 1950s and 1960s and famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy and Grace Kelly.

At the age of seventeen, he moved to Paris where he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts. Givenchy’s first designs were done for Jacques Fath in 1945. Later he did designs for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong (1946) – working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior, followed by 5 years working for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli before he opened his own design house at the Plaine Monceau in Paris in 1952.

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in 1954 film «Sabrina».

His style was marked by innovation, contrary to the more conservative designs by Dior. At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use of rather cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued curiosity through their design. Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy’s fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of «Sabrina». He went on to design the famous «little black dress» she wore in «Breakfast at Tiffany’s».

In 1961, when Audrey Hepburn got the roll of Holly Golightly, designer Hubert de Givenchy designed the famous black dress which became one of the most iconic clothing items of the 20th century.

He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L’Interdit and Le de Givenchy) and made Audrey Hepburn the face of it. For the very first time a star was the face of a fragrance’s advertising campaign and probably the last time that it was done for free, only by friendship.

At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Although a renowned designer, Givenchy not only sought inspiration from the lofty settings of haute couture but also in such avant-garde environments as Limbo, the store in Manhattan’s East Village. In 1954, Givenchy’s prêt-à-porter collection debuted.

1957 Babydoll Dress by Givenchy

The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch was acquired by LVMH in 1989. As of today, LVMH owns Parfums Givenchy as well.

De Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995. His successor to head the Givenchy label was John Galliano, followed by a five-year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julien Macdonald. As we all know, Riccardo Tisci revived the Givenchy brand tremendously from 2005 until 2017. This season, Clare Waight Keller presented her first runway show for Givenchy.

Rest in peace, Hubert de Givenchy and thank you for all those wonderful fashionable moments.
You will never be forgotten!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Getty Images

My Look: Union Jack Style

In the ’90s, John Galliano gave the famous Union Jack a high fashion rehabilitation and in the beginning of the century, Vivienne Westwood’s interpretation of the red, white and blue became an icon for post-punk British creativity. The Union Jack of today has shed its skin of sneery Cool Britannia rebelliousness. Now, Gucci‘s Alessandro Michele shows us that it is all about flying the flag, just not as we know it.

My look: Fur coat by Etro, Union Jack embellished wool sweaterfur-felt wide-brim trilby hat, skinny denim pant with embroidery and Horsebit-detailed collapsible-heel metallic leather loafers, all by Gucci, classic Union Jack inspired flap bag by ChanelHorsebit blue topaz diamond white gold ringicon by Gucci Fine Jewellery.
icon

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Merry Christmas 2017

«Christmas trees are the strongest ‘souvenir’ of my happy childhood.» – Karl Lagerfeld

I love Christmas trees and my favorite one (besides my own) can be found at London’s Claridge’s Hotel where in the eighth consecutive year a creative visionary has been invited to reinterpret the tree in their own distinctive style. This December, it is Karl Lagerfeld, one of the fashion world’s most influential creative forces, who created the stunning festive installation, a sixteen foot high inverted tree with silver gilded roots topped with a multi-faceted mirrored star which reflects rays of magical light across the art deco lobby. Reminiscent of a silver stalactite, the tree is hung with traditional silver lametta decorations, silver butter leather feathers and snowflakes handmade by craftsmen in Germany with tree candles giving a warm, inviting glow. Under the centerpiece sit hand sewn white Icelandic sheepskin rugs to reflect a recent snowfall.The famous designer was inspired by his own childhood memories of Christmas.

The Claridge’s Christmas Tree has long been a festive Mayfair landmark, drawing visitors and Londoners alike to marvel at its magnificent and ever-changing design. Scroll down to explore Claridge’s Christmas Tree designs through the years.

2016: SIR JONY IVE AND MARC NEWSON

2015: CHRISTOPHER BAILEY FOR BURBERRY

2014: DOLCE & GABBANA

2013: DOLCE & GABBANA

2012: KALLY ELLIS OF MCQUEENS

2011: ALBER ELBAZ FOR LANVIN

2010: JOHN GALLIANO FOR DIOR

2009: JOHN GALLIANO FOR DIOR

Merry Christmas to all of you – may you all sparkle as these beautiful trees with joy, love and laughter.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Claridge’s

Met Gala 2017

Always on the first Monday in May, the Met Gala takes place and its 150-foot-long red carpet is probably one of the most-watched fashion events of the year with a gazillion of celebrities walking it in the most exquisite gowns. This year, it celebrated the opening of the Costume Institute’s exhibition, “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” that will go on until September 4, 2017.

Today I would like to share my personal list of best-dressed (and worst-dressed) celebrities that made their way last night into the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Temple of Dendur for the party of the year. The dress code called for avant-garde black tie, either you go big or go home, enjoy!

My favorite look on the red carpet: Lily-Rose Depp‘s pink Chanel look detailed with oversized silver camellias and a creeping vine.

Who did meet the dress code the best? The answer is clearly Rihanna. She showed up once again in a full-on fashion fantasy from the Comme des Garçons F/W 2016 runway that was also an architectural miracle, paired with Rihanna Loves Chopard jewelry.

As 2017 Met Gala cochair of the “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between” exhibition, Pharell Williams wore ripped denim by Comme des Garçons Jeans with a black biker jacket, and plaid shirt. His wife, Helen Lasichanh, paired her straight-off-the-F/W-2017-runway red onesie with a blonde topknot. Not showing any arms, it looked like a fashionable straightjacket.

Cara Delevingne appeared as a sci-fi fashion fantasy wearing an embellished pantsuit from Chanel‘s Spring 2017 Couture collection. I love how she always surprises.

One of my favorites! Even that Zendaya rejected the theme of the night, she ensured all eyes were on her wearing a Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda ball gown covered in a tropical parrot print.

Two thumbs up for bringing glamour to the red carpet. Jennifer Lopez looked gorgeous in a Valentino dress and Harry Winston jewelry.

Lily Collins showed up with a graphic dark bob and black lipstick, juxtaposing her sweet Giambattista Valli gown and her fierce Tiffany & Co. jewelry.

Plus-size model Ashley Graham channeled her inner flamenco dancer in a fabulous custom H&M dress. So pretty!

I am in love with Blake Lively’s Atelier Versace gown that featured a draped gold beading at the bodice, giving way to a plumed train in shades of blue. She had the best accessory of the night with her … her husband:-)! Couple goals I would say!

Another one arrived with her handsome husband who might have thought looking at his wife Gisele Bündchen in Stella McCartney, of Ed Sheeran singing «I’m in love with the shape of you» …

If you don’t have a husband to bring, bring the designer of your dress! That was Dakota Johnson‘s motto of the night, as she appeared in a stunning ruffled black Gucci gown with Alessandro Michele at her side.

Radiant like a sun goddess, actress Jessica Chastain in a yellow fluid Prada gown paired with some stunning Piaget jewelry.

Lupita Nyong’o also dazzled in Prada, pulling off the vibrant orange shade with Tiffany & Co. jewelry.

Gigi Hadid looked amazing in a nude, asymmetrical Cinderella-esque Tommy Hilfiger dress. I am just not so sure about the stay-up.

Showstopper! Leave it to Bella Hadid to steal the show in a glittering catsuit by none other than Alexander Wang. She looked so fabulous!

Priyanka Chopra did not disappoint in a bold Ralph Lauren trench coat gown with an unbelievably long train. Very different, something I like. I am just not a big fan of her booties in combination.

Like it or not, the award for most nude goes to none other than Kendall Jenner, whose slinky La Perla Haute Couture dress will absolutely go down in Met Gala history.

When it comes to Gwyneth Paltrow‘s understated Calvin Klein dress, I love the cut and the color, but I am not fond of the ankle length.

Katy Perry was unfortunately not among my favorites last night. The custom red tulle gown by Maison Margiela, designed by John Galliano himself, was topped with a heavy-looking wool coat covered in adornments like tulle flowers and plenty of beads. On the veil, a cryptic message across her eyes spelling “Witness” was embroidered, nevertheless it was truly one of the night’s most creative looks.

My favourite picture of the night! Have a look at Sarah Paulson dressed in a beautiful classy Prada gown. Her facial expression says everything! The American Horror Story actress seemed to have a heart attack after bumping into Madonna with the designer of her camouflage Moschino dress by her side, Jeremy Scott. Declaring war on fashion in camouflage, the famous singer was definitely not going incognito. I am not a fan of her look.

Swiss power at the Met Gala… Roger Federer in Gucci. I adore this snake embellishment on his back!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue.com, © Getty Images, © Rob Latour/REX/Shutterstock, © Theo Wargo/Getty Images

On My Way to Salzburg with Chanel

vogue_ua

Happy first Sunday in Advent, my dear readers! While you are hopefully enjoying a cozy day at home or with friends, I am on my way to Salzburg with CHANEL to attend the French house’s extravagant Métiers d’Art show. I shared with you the first visuals a few days ago and you might imagine my excitement to be invited. Seeing Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams in those amazing outfits just got my imagination going how amazing the collection will be.

Chanel Paris-Salzburg

On December 1, the movie Reincarnation will be revealed during a dinner party and on December 2, the show will take place at 10.30 am at Schloss Leopoldskron, an 18th-century lakeside rococo palace. Follow me on instagram @sandrascloset for live updates. But Karl Lagerfeld isn’t the only one who looked to Austria for inspiration – Tyrolean references have shown up at previous collections from the likes of Givenchy, Emilio Pucci, Olympia Le-Tan, and more. See the trend’s full evolution below.

Chanel-salzburg-tyrolean-style_01

According to Karl Lagerfeld, Coco Chanel derived her original inspiration for the Little Black Jacket from the Tyrolean uniform she spotted on a bellhop at Schloss Mittersill, a castle-cum-hotel in Salzburg, Austria.

Chanel-salzburg-tyrolean-style_02

Rock ‘n’ Tyrol at the recent Givenchy S/S 2015 show during Paris Fashion Week.

671949

For Emilio Pucci’s F/W 2011 offering, Peter Dundas channeled Tyrolean folklore and two Austrian beauties: Romy Schneider (specifically her turn in Sissi) and the nation’s opulent palaces.

Pucci4

My look: Pucci Goes Wies’n

Tyrolean-Love

My look: Tyrolean Love

Chanel-salzburg-tyrolean-style_07

The aforementioned Romy Schneider in Sissi, a 1955 film based on the life of Empress Elisabeth of Austria.

Chanel-salzburg-tyrolean-style_11
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s darling take on Hansel & Gretel for Red Valentino’s F/W 2013 offering.

Chanel-salzburg-tyrolean-style_13
Milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones whipped up this Tyrolean topper for John Galliano‘s F/W 2003 spectacular.

Dirndl Dolce Gabbana -Sandra Bauknecht

My look: Dirndl Time

Chanel-salzburg-tyrolean-style_17
Delicate alpine flowers scattered across a frock at Valentino’s F/W 2012 show.

Chanel-salzburg-tyrolean-style_05
These are a few of our favorite things: a luxe take on lederhosen, as spotted in the lookbook for Olympia Le-Tan’s F/W 2013 Schnitzel With Noodles collection.

D&G F:W 2002

Hello, cowgirl in the sand. Or, in this case, the Alps. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana went north for inspiration for their F/W 2002 D&G secondary line and came back with a Tyrolean-themed collection—just the thing for a sexy, young Heidi with a great figure and a good sense of humor.

Sandra_Bauknecht_Kitzbuehel2

My look: Greetings from Kitzbuehel in Austria

Whether you’re taking the Givenchy route or going full-on alpine, this trend is surely on the rise.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue and Style.com, Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages.com, Michele Morosi / Gorunway.com, Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com; Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com, Mondadori Portfolio, Don Ashby, Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com, Courtesy of Red Valentino and © Sandra Bauknecht

John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela

John Galliano Joins Maiosn Martin Margiela

Finally we have some breaking fashion news again: John Galliano joins Maison Martin Margiela. The designer, who is regarded as one of contemporary fashion’s most outstanding talents, has been absent from the catwalks after he was fired from Dior in 2011 for allegedly making anti-Semitic remarks and assault (for the previous post, please click here).

galliano-embed_3063301aGalliano’s last collection for his eponymous label, shown in Paris in March 2011.

Diesel’s jeans genius Renzo Rosso, whose group OTB controls Margiela via a subsidiary called Neuf, said to WWD: Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul. John Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time — a unique, exceptional couturier for a maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion. I look forward to his return to create that fashion dream that only he can create, and wish him to here find his new home.

margiela-2_3053767aThe latest S/S 2015 Maison Martin Margiela collection, shown during Paris Fashion Week in September 2014.

John Galliano is said to take over the design leadership of all Margiela lines, including couture and the women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections. His first designs for his new home are expected to be seen in January during Paris Couture Week. Martin Margiela retired in 2009 and an anonymous team continued his legacy. Even that Galliano doesn’t seem the most obvious choice, I think that he is absolutely capable to revolutionize the brand again.

John Galliano for Christian Dior Fall Winter 2005 Haute CoutureJohn Galliano for Christian Dior F/W 2005 Haute Couture

People have short memories, especially if Galliano delivers a desirable collection. Isn’t it easier to forgive than forget?! Let’s give Galliano a new lease on life… everyone deserves that!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Patrick Demarchelier, Getty Images, Isidore Montag

Fashion at Versailles

Chanel Versailles

Tomorrow, May 14, “Kaiser Karl” will reign over the world of fashion once more. Lagerfeld will show his Resort 2013 collection for Chanel at Versailles. Of course, it will be a big production, but all details are still under wraps. Past Chanel Resort shows have been presented at the Lido in Venice (Resort 2010), and one of my favourites, in St. Tropez (Resort 2011). Their locations usually bewray the inspiration for the collection.

Versailles was the famous place where the French royal family ruled in extravagance for 100 years before the French Revolution. What does come to your mind? As for me, I could only think of excess, rich fabrics, opulence.

 I am truly curious what Karl Lagerfeld has been thinking of.  If anyone is up to the task to pay tribute to Marie Antoinette or to revive those decadent moments in time, it is definitely him. I am sure that he will surprise us as the setting has to be different from his S/S 2011 Chanel show that was based on Versailles’s extensive gardens (see above).

If you look in fashion history, this won’t be the first time Versailles has been used for a show.

Couture 2007-Dior

In 2007, John Galliano rented out the palace for a huge spectacle – Dior‘s 60th anniversary couture show.

Battle of Versailles 1973

In 1973, five upcoming US-designers, Anne Klein, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta faced off against French couturiers Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, and Emanuel Ungaro in a runway spectacle that became known as the Battle of Versailles.

The French designers were certain of victory, due to their long tradition and know-how. But the Americans had a secret weapon; a vibrant group of eight African-American models plus the wish to conquer the European world of fashion. And the celebrity-packed audience of 800, including a tiara-wearing Princess Grace cheered to their performance. It was that chilly night changed the face and colour of fashion forever.

Versailles1

There have also been numerous fashion editorials photographed at Versailles over the years.

Above:
1 Shalom Harlow by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994
Diane Krüger by Gilles Marie Zimmerman for Paris Match March 2012
Trish Goff by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994

Please enjoy this little summary of some of the most beautiful ones, along with other palace-set shoots by Karl Lagerfeld himself.

French Chic

Jessica Stam and Snejana Onopka by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar Romania November 2007

24hour Couture

Gisele Bündchen by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar June 2007

Tatler

Vanessa Paradis by Karl Lagerfeld for Tatler Russia July 2012

Stay tuned for the photos of the Chanel Resort 2013 show.

LoL, Sandra

Confirmed: Raf Simons to Take Over at Dior

Raf Simons to take Over at Dior

According to the New York Times today, it is confirmed that Raf Simons, 44, will take over immediately as artistic director at Christian Dior. Supposedly, the Paris fashion house will announce the news on Wednesday officially. Simons will be replacing John Galliano, who was fired from Dior last year after he made anti-Semitic remarks.

His first collection is planned for July at the fall haute couture shows. The Belgian designer, who worked for the house of Jil Sander before, will be in charge of haute couture, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, while keeping his eponymous men’s line.

“I feel fantastic,” Mr. Simons said by telephone from his studio in Antwerp to Suzy Menkes. “It is one of the ultimate challenges, and a dream to go to a place like Dior, which stands for absolute elegance, incredible femininity and utter luxury.”

So my guess in February was right… click here for the previous post.

LoL, Sandra