kingdom

December 2024
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“I was thinking a lot about journeys as I started putting together my first Burberry collection. From my personal journey back to London 20 years after I showed my graduate collection here, to how far I have come. I was also inspired by how much London – the city that made me dream to become a designer – has evolved. This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of
this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom.”
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer

Yesterday evening, Riccardo Tisci presented his much-anticipated debut collection for BURBERRY with a show – of course live streamed on Instagram – that paid homage to the individuality, eccentricity and inimitable attitude of Britain with 134 looks.

The collection
In front of an audience of creative industry, friends and family, the S/S 2019 collection for men and women, called «Kingdom», was unveiled at a new show venue in Vauxhall, South West London. The new collection celebrates the diversity and the heart of England – the melting pot of creativity and style traditions from the punk and rebellious, to the formal and refined, all co-existing together. It serves for all, grandparents, parents and the kids. Capturing the breadth of what British culture represents today, the collection defines the visual language and lexicon for Burberry through new house codes and accessories.

The space
As the first model took to the runway the previously dark space was flooded with light, symbolising a new chapter for the fashion house. British materials and textures including concrete, mahogany wood and critter glass transformed the interior with moving walls in tonal brand colours forming small intimate view points for the audience.

The music
Models including Kendall Jenner, Irina Shayk, Stella Tennant, Jourdan Dunn, Lily Donaldson, Freja Beha Erichsen, Natalia Vodianova, Anok Yai and Cat McNeil walked to an exclusively designed soundtrack by Robert Del Naja from Massive Attack.

24-hour capsule drop
Pieces from Riccardo’s first collection for BURBERRY are now available to buy for 24 hours exclusively on Instagram, WeChat and physically at BURBERRY’s London flagship store, 121 Regent Street.

Personal opinion
I had been very curious about Tisci’s approach to BURBERRY and think he had a good start with the focus on tailoring. Although he has not fully arrived yet. Probably because he tried to cater for every taste, many looks were definitely on the commercial side and too much of a mixture between Prada, Céline, and of course Givenchy during his era.

I spotted a detaching waist on a couple of outfits which I quite like. The fabric combination of flowing materials with leather for skirts was definitely amazing. Many details were outstanding, like the umbrella harness or tie fixture. It is a collection where you have to look twice.

But personally speaking I preferred the second part of the presentation as it showed what Tisci can do best, mixing high and low. The print, that is echoing a Sex Pistols song, reading «why did they kill Bambi?» is fun as well as the portraits on pants and dresses.

Am I the only one or did anybody else see a resemblance between these lamp shade-inspired fringe- and crystal-adorned evening looks and Mary Katrantzou‘s designs?!

Nevertheless, as I am a dedicated fashion collector, I will surely get some pieces from this collection. But not from the 24h Instagram sale, as I find the choice pretty disappointing. Too commercial for my taste.

Enjoy my favorite looks below…