Having explored the olfactory culture of the Middle East since 2018, Les Parfums Louis Vuitton now make a new stopover. Following Ombre Nomade, Les Sables Roses, Nuit de Feu and Pur Oud, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud composes a tribute to three native Middle Eastern flowers that over the centuries have become emblematic of perfumery all over the world: jasmine, a symbol of beauty from the Far East to the Mediterranean; orange blossom, which has been used in the region since Antiquity; and rose, one of the most famous varieties of which originated in Damascus. For the fifth opus in this collection, Louis Vuitton’s Master Perfumer wanted to capture these natural wonders in their original setting: gathered in a «nectar of flowers,» they blossom at the heart of a rich and resolutely sophisticated oriental composition. More than a perfume: a signature.
The Splendors of the Desert
In the desert, everything is magnified. This theater of extremes has fascinated and inspired stories since the dawn of time. Its immensity invites us to dream even further. Despite its hostile environment, the desert conceals spectacular wonders. Unforgettable emotions…
Amid the expanse of sand, a touch of color catches the travelers’ eye and makes them stop in their tracks. A corolla of petals. The unexpected presence of a plant in a vast, mineral ocean. At once fragile and strong, this flower has braved the omnipotence of the elements to express a beauty that is all the more sumptuous. It is life that springs forth against all odds, foiling the impossible. A miracle, poised at the boundary of reality and magic.
A Nectar of Flowers
From his many visits to the Middle East, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud carries in his memory striking contrasts. Arid dunes skirting the sea. Scorching days succeeded by freezing nights. A sumptuous palace rising from the heart of the desert, an architectural treasure breaking the monotony of sand like a mirage. To compose Fleur du Désert, he immersed himself in the «absolute beauty» of an oasis with lush vegetation, encountered during a morning walk in the Saudi Arabian desert not far from Jeddah. Moved by the power of such life defying the aridity of the landscape – an «eminently optimistic symbol» – Louis Vuitton’s Master Perfumer captured the image in a colorful signature brimming with contrasts. The delicacy of a bouquet of fresh flowers, exalted by the depth of an oriental trail.
Jasmine, orange blossom, rose: originally from the Middle East, these three flowers became emblems for Western perfumery. «They were brought to Europe by caravan from different regions in the Orient,» explains Jacques Cavallier Belletrud. «My idea was simply to stage these natural wonders in their original setting.» Directly inspired by the history and origins of perfumery, Fleur du Désert celebrates the essential contribution of the Middle East, the birthplace of this millennia-old art.
The House’s Master Perfumer selected the finest qualities of these flowers that he knows by heart as they are redolent of his native region: Grasse. Two essences obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction faithfully reproduce the scents of the fresh flowers at the center of his composition: Grandiflorum jasmine, tinged with the honeyed accents of orange blossom absolute, emanates its delicately radiant scent, while the Centifolia rose reveals the sublime softness of its petals. This precious bouquet is an ode to the art of perfume, enveloped in an oriental accord with original tonalities of spices and honey.
«I didn’t want an oriental accord in the Western sense of the term, but rather one that truly speaks of the culture and beauty that are unique to that region,» the perfumer explains. Oud Assam, also known as «black gold» — a treasure of Middle Eastern perfumery — expresses its unprecedented olfactory richness through an exceptional essence, distilled for two centuries by a family of producers in Bangladesh who have become the exclusive supplier to Louis Vuitton. Woody, animalic, spicy, amber… its deep scent is rounded by a honeyed note that responds to the suavest facets in the floral bouquet. Touched by a whisper of cinnamon, warm as the desert wind, this opulent trail embraces the skin with the sensuality of Ambrox, then melts into the naturally musky softness of ambrette seed. Enveloped in precious ingredients, this «nectar of flowers» reveals its absolute sophistication as the hours pass…
Louis Vuitton and the Middle East: A Legacy of Signatures
Introduced with Ombre Nomade in 2018, Les Parfums Louis Vuitton‘s tribute to Middle Eastern olfactory culture is not limited to its ingredients, nor to its territories of inspiration. Fragrance after fragrance, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud reaffirms the connection between his personal creative process and Middle Eastern perfumery, which share a singular love for textured, sophisticated fragrances. The son and grandson of perfumers, he observes that «Truly great perfumes have olfactory imprints that are distinctive and instantly memorable.» In a word: they are signatures. Guided by this conviction from his earliest creations, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud has naturally developed a strong affinity with lovers of Middle Eastern perfumery. Through this collection, he reveres the culture and curiosity that drives them to explore all olfactory families, well beyond the clichés to which Western perfumery sometimes confines them. «What defines a »Middle Eastern» perfume is not a question of notes, in my opinion,» he «It is rather a matter of textures and complexity. Undeniable elegance and presence.»
The Colors of the Desert
With the perfumes in this Middle Eastern-inspired collection, Louis Vuitton offers a palette of vibrant blacks that capture the colors of the desert and the multiple nuances of its mysteries. Crafted in precious glass that appears black at first glance, the House’s iconic perfume bottle reveals a deep, intense cast when touched by light. Fleur du Désert reveals pinkish reflections evoking the sumptuous hue of a freshly bloomed flower. Like the desert surrendering its most beautiful secrets to those who know how to look…
Eau de Parfum Fleur du Désert 100ml, 320€
In-store refill 100ml, 190€
Eau de Parfum Fleur du Désert 200ml, 495€
In-store refill 200ml, 380€
Available at select Louis Vuitton stores and from louisvuitton.com.
LoL, Sandra
Photos: © Louis Vuitton #LVParfums #louisvuitton
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