The Cartier brothers, who travelled extensively, observed, and drew inspiration from the beauty of the world, preserving it, and above all, enriching it. The Maison’s latest high jewelry collection BEAUTÉS DU MONDE continues this tradition. From the perfect arrangement of a bird’s feathers to the abstraction of a traditional Japanese motif, Cartier never ceases to marvel at all the beauty in the world and convey it through its sumptuous and spirited High Jewellery creations.
THE OCELLE NECKLACE
OF ALL BIRDS, THE PEACOCK IS POSSIBLY THE MOST FASCINATING
It was through his passion for the Islamic arts that Louis Cartier perceived the power of blue and green. For him, the discovery of this chromatic combination was so powerful that it became part of the Maison’s palette under the name of «peacock motif.» This combination quickly became a Cartier signature. The Ocelle necklace from the Beautés du Monde collection pays tribute to the bird with two opals weighing 16.59 and 6.19 carats respectively, and a 21.18-carat Zambian emerald. In addition to the colours, the necklace incorporates the form of the eyespots that characterise the peacock’s plumage. These are miniaturized, multiplied and highlighted by an onyxtrim. Partly overlapping each other and mobile, these small feathers bring great suppleness. The fluidity of the ensemble attests to the excellence of the Cartier workshops, as does the custom cuts of the opals and emerald, which are mounted on their culasse to create an invisible setting. The upper opal detaches to be worn as a brooch.
THE SPLENDENS NECKLACE
FAITHFULLY REPLICATING THE UNDULATING FINS OF A FIGHTING FISH
Was never the intent of this necklace, which introduces a new animal into the Cartier bestiary; rather, it was the desire to abstractly represent the delicate nature of their floating fins while creating a High Jewellery necklace. A creative stroke of handiwork made with a cascade of spinel beads selected for their harmony of colours and increasing size. Each bead is held within a type of invisible cap by a tiny nail whose surface plays with the light like water would over the scales of a fish. This exceedingly supple bib necklace is lined with nine oval and pear spinels totalling 27.79 carats. Remarkable for its chromatic uniformity, the ensemble is studded with square- and lozenge-shaped diamonds that electrify this fluid necklace, which seems to flow along the body’s curves.
THE CAMAIL NECKLACE
CARTIER CAN SEE BOTH LIFE AND MOVEMENT IN NATURE’S PERFECTION
A bird’s plumage thus becomes the abstract motif of a choker. Inspiration came to the artisans as they gazed in wonder upon the 42.44-carat ensemble of five Zambian emeralds, remarkable in their pear-shaped beauty. Each gem is highlighted by a curve of square diamonds trimmed with custom-cut onyx. The design thus creates a strong sensation of movement. Behind this rhythmic composition lie two feats of jewellery-making prowess: first, the necklace’s suppleness and second, the prong-less settings of the emeralds which seem to rest on top of the diamonds. In reality, each stone is precisely fitted onto a crescent-moon paved with diamonds that is integrated into the border. This creation renews and explores the chromatic harmony between white, green, and black that appeared around 1910 and has since become an emblematic combination of the Maison. The black of onyx, lacquer and enamel provides contrast, suggests volume and depth, and highlights geometric motifs. This combination heralded the Art Deco movement, of which Cartier was a pioneer.
THE OBI NECKLACE
FOR CARTIER, THE BEAUTY OF THE WORLD IS ALSO THE BEAUTY OF TRADITIONS
Drawing inspiration small calibrated rubies. Thanks to from Japanese fabrics the very delicate custom-cut onyx decorated with inserts,the angles are marked, the rising sun motif, the Obi necklace pays tribute to the culture of Japan, an inspiring land cherished by the Maison for more than a century. A rare ensemble composed of eight cabochon-cut emeralds, including a 12.53-carat specimen from Zambia, provides the starting point. The gemstones become the heart of the radiant motifs, linked together. The roundness of the cabochons contrasts with the motif ’s geometry, which is punctuated by volumes accentuated, and the entire necklace gains depth. Green, red, and black: a signature chromatic harmony for Cartier, which since the beginning of the 20th century has dared to create unprecedented combinations. The colour black represents a new modern entry into the Cartier universe, and is now emblematic of its style. In keeping with Cartier’s tradition of transformable pieces, the pendant motif detaches to be worn as a brooch.
Below you can enjoy some making of photos that show the amazing craftsmanship behind those pieces.
LoL, Sandra
Photos: © CARTIER
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