Sandra‘s Closet

«Embroidery is to Haute Couture what fireworks are to Bastille Day.» – François Lesage

I love CHANEL‘s Métiers d’Art collections, that are always a visual treat for the senses, showcasing the craftsmanship for which the luxury house is revered. Those runway shows take place each year outside the traditional fashion schedule.

The name itself reveals it: Métiers d’Art means «art professions». They are considered demi-couture, right between ready-to-wear and haute couture; although the designs are not bespoke, their ornamentation and craftsmanship rely on couture techniques. The collections and their elaborate themes are brought to life by the small specialist workshops that CHANEL began buying in 1984, in order to preserve the expertise and craftsmanship associated with French luxury, among them the buttons and accessory maker (Desrues), costume jewelers (Goossens), embroiderers (Lesage and Montex), feather and flower makers (Lemarié), milliners (Maison Michel), shoemakers (Massaro) and so on. Today these ateliers have become essential to the everyday running of the fashion house, providing CHANEL with everything from lace to embroidered buttons.

For the Métiers d’Art collection 2020, named Paris – 31 Rue Cambon, Virginie Viard, who was with CHANEL’s haute couture department for more than 30 years before taking the helm as the Maison’s creative director in 2019, brought the show back to the legendary designer’s apartment, creating the magnificent set-up that placed emphasis on Coco Chanel’s famous mirrored staircase.

Her favorite look of the collection was number 34, and it was also mine. It is a piece of art, created using the intricate trompe-l’œil embroidery done specifically at the ateliers of Lesage, and the attention to detail is undeniable.

The story began in 1858, when Charles Frederick Worth opened his haute couture fashion house, and started making use of the prodigious talent of the embroiderer Albert Michonet, whose studio was purchased by Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage in 1924. This was the beginning of a period of fruitful and close collaboration with the best-known names of the time. They introduced tambour embroidery to the studio using the Lunéville technique, which could respond to the voracious demand for beaded and sequinned gowns during Les Années Folles.

In 1949, on the death of his father, François Lesage (1929 – 2011) took over management of the company at the tender age of 20. For 50 years, he has cleverly combined the skills of a traditional craft with meeting the pioneering requirements of the new generation of fashion designers. In 2002, the company became part of the CHANEL family.

Coming back to Look 34, that I am wearing in this outfit post. It features the Lunéville technique that involves using a crochet hook to chain stitch small decorations (black and gold beads) to the underside of the fabric. In this case, over 25,000 gold beads and 35,000 black tube beads are used to form the embroidered braids, before the seamstresses at the tailleur atelier carefully place them along the edges and cuffs of the wool tweed jacket and trousers. The classic handbag was created to complement the look, crafted in the same red-and-black wool tweed and finished with the embroidered braid detailing all around the edges.

Why am I explaining all of this to you? Those pieces are one-off creations that continually push the boundaries to showcase the fine arts that are only alive and well today because of CHANEL’s continued patronage. If you love fashion, you will appreciate the craftsmanship of those eternal items. This look is very dear to my heart.

My look: Tweed jacket with embroidery, matching tweed pants, and classic handbag, layered pearl necklace with bows, and two-tone slingback shoes, all by CHANEL (Look 34 Métiers d’Art 2020 Paris – 31 Rue Cambon),  velvet and Leavers lace-trimmed stretch-tulle halterneck bodysuit, and gold-tone, enamel and faux pearl clip earrings, both by Saint Laurent, and Carretto-print face mask, by Dolce & Gabbana.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © David Biedert Photography
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise. 

For CHANEL’s Paris – 31 rue Cambon Métiers d’Art 2020 show, models wore iconic shoes with a black toe, an 8cm heel and revisited proportions.

Mademoiselle called them pumps. «They are the final touch of elegance», she used to say. To perfect the silhouette that Gabrielle Chanel introduced to the world, it was necessary to create a shoe that went with any outfit, one that was elegant, could be worn morning to night, and was suited to the new lifestyle of women.

The Italian actress Gina Lollobrigida surrounded by CHANEL House models wearing suits and two-tone shoes (1964, F/W Haute Couture).

In 1957, Mademoiselle Chanel created the two-tone slingback shoe in beige and black. It created a highly graphic effect: the beige lengthened the leg while the black shortened the foot. Whereas shoes had previously been made in a single color that matched the color of one’s clothing, Mademoiselle Chanel once again overturned the codes of fashion by pairing beige and black with all outfits. In her words, «You leave in the morning wearing beige and black, you have lunch in beige and black, and you attend a cocktail party wearing beige and black. You’re dressed for the entire day!» Chanel’s slingback shoe experienced instant success. It varied in style, offering versions with a straighter or thinner heel and a rounded, square or pointed toe.

The beautiful heels for CHANEL’s Paris – 31 rue Cambon Métiers d’Art 2020 show were produced at Massaro.

Mademoiselle Chanel improved its comfort with the help of Massaro (which has remained Chanel’s custom shoe brand to this day) by adding an elastic strap. Located «just steps away from Rue Cambon,» the Massaro workshop continues to create all of the footwear creations for Chanel’s Haute Couture and Métiers d’Art collections. Starting with his very first collection, Karl Lagerfeld had channeled his talent to modernize this model. The two-tone shoe thus lends itself to a myriad of metamorphoses. In just one season, it may be transformed into a ballerina slipper, boot or sandal without losing any of its original spirit. «It’s become the most modern of shoes and makes beautiful legs,» Karl Lagerfeld explained many years ago.

Virginie Viard at CHANEL’s Paris – 31 rue Cambon Métiers d’Art 2020 show finale.

This season, Virginie Viard continued the legacy and created in my eyes one of the It-shoes of the season, comfortable and stylish in one. I love mine and will show you how I wore them on all my recent travels around Europe. They are available now for CHF 900.

LoL, Sandra

CHANEL’s Paris – 31 rue Cambon Métiers d’Art 2020 ad campaign

Photos: © CHANEL, © Photo Philippe Garnier / Elle-Scoop
DISCLOSURE: This post is not sponsored. I just love those shoes.

After Salzburg, Rome and Ritz Paris, CHANEL will present its next Métiers d’art collection for Pre-fall 2018 in Hamburg, Germany, on the 6th of December 2017. The show will take place at the spectacular Elbphilharmonie, a true work of architectural prowess conceived by Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron, and situated in the heart of the Port of Hamburg that just opened in the beginning of the year.

No word yet on why Karl Lagerfeld has decided to take his collection to his hometown, of course, rumors are whispering something about his final show which I absolutely doubt.

The beautiful interior of the Elbphilharmonie in Hamburg will surely be a stunning backdrop for the show.

Each year, through the virtuosity of the German designer, the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection is taken around the world, and honours the exceptionnal savoir-faire of CHANEL‘s artisan partners, among which the embroiderers Maison Lesage and Atelier Montex, feather-maker Lemarié, shoemaker Massaro and hat-maker and milliner Maison Michel.

Chasing waterfalls for S/S 2018.

Lagerfeld just presented his S/S 2018 show for the French house on Tuesday at Paris Fashion Week, debuting some chic rainwear alongside artificial (but nonetheless astonishing) waterfalls in the Grand Palais. He is a true genius and I am so much looking forward what he will be showing in our mutual home country! Only two months exactly to ago…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Getty Images and Courtesy of Chanel

Last Tuesday, Karl Lagerfeld presented his latest Metiers d’Art collection for CHANEL, Paris-Edimbourg, at Linlithgow Palace – the ancient family seat of the Stuart family, where Mary Queen of Scots, was born.

An incredible presentation of know-how and craftsmanship, this collection honours and showcases the exceptional talent of the jeweler Desrues, the feather maker Lemarie, the milliner Maison Michel, the boot maker Massaro, the lace embroiderer Maison Lesage, the embroiderer Montex, the glove maker Causse and the Scottish cashmere company Barrie knitwear – a recent acquisition of the House of CHANEL.

Scotland, a country that Gabrielle Chanel discovered with the Duke of Westminster, became the source of her inspiration for tweed creations and knitted cardigans. In choosing Scotland as the scene of this Metiers d’Art collection, Karl Lagerfeld once again reinvented the history and codes of the House with renewed creativity.

The collection included many classic Scottish design elements, such as tartan, tweed, fur and layers of wool. Fashion’s greatest storyteller Karl Lagerfeld modernized the idea and came up with some very cool oversized and boyish highland looks, which were juxtaposed by very feminine details, like bows and embroideries adding a very Shakespearean appeal.

After the show, guests walked through the torch-lit grounds of the Palace, to the dramatic sound of Scottish bagpipes, arriving at a dinner and party held in Karl Lagerfeld’s honour which was followed by a performance by the British singer and songwriter Jake Bugg.

Just beautiful…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Chanel

For the first time, there was a credit that no one has seen at a runway show before: One of Chanel’s famous Parisian ateliers, the legendary couture embroidery house Lesage, lend their skills to Peter Philips, Creative Director for Chanel Makeup, by creating the most stunning embroidered eyebrow pads for the models.

Lesage (embroidery) is along with 7 other ateliers part of Chanel’s subsidary dedicated to “Métiers d’ art”, Paraffection. These include Montex (embroidery), Desrues (costume jewelry), Lemarié (feather-maker), Maison Michel (hat-maker), Massaro (boot-maker), Goossens (goldsmith) and Guillet (fabric flowers-maker).

The emphasis of the runway makeup look is on the eyebrows by using those amazing Lesage pads which won’t be for sale unfortunately. The rest of the face is kept nude and simple.

But there are two new products that will be available in the fall that will make our hearts leap with joy. “Ombre Contraste” is a compact powder in a lavender-taupe shade, called “Notorious” specially created for this show that Peter Philips used for all the shading and sculpting of the face.

For the nails, the new It- shade will be “Frenzy”, a light taupe, which is totally colour coordinated with “Notorious”.

Here is your shopping list:
(the highlighted ones will be available this fall, the rest is in stores already):

Chanel F/W 2012 Ready-to-Wear Show
Makeup by Peter Philips

Skin prepared with HYDRA BEAUTY SERUM

The Complexion
MAT LUMIERE
POUDRE UNIVERSELLE LIBRE
ECLAT LUMIERE
CORRECTEUR PERFECTION

The Eyes
LE CRAYON KHOL « Clair » (N°69)
RECOURBE CILS DE CHANEL
Embroideries made by Maison Lesage specially for the show

The Eyes and the Cheeks
OMBRE CONTRASTE “Notorious” – Exclusive Creation available in specific point of sales in September 2012

The Lips
ROUGE COCO BAUME – Spring 2012 Collection

The Nails
LE VERNIS « Frenzy » (N°559)  – Fall 2012 Collection

Cannot wait to have “Frenzy” on my nails!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Chanel 2012, Vincent Lappartient

As promised, here are the photos that I took during the Chanel Paris – Bombay Pre-fall 2012 Métiers d’Art show in Paris last week. My eyes could not get enough of this opulent perfection, I truly loved the show and had to capture every single moment which meant over 200 photos.

Every year since 2002, Chanel has taken the Métiers d’Art show as an opportunity to showcase master craftsmanship. The artisanal crafts of embroidery, leather work, featherwork, boot‐making, millinery, and gold and silversmithery are represented by Lesage, Montex, Desrues, Lemarié, Massaro, Michel and Goossens, each striving to honour its unique heritage. Karl Lagerfeld spotlighted their skill last week at the Grand Palais in Paris, whose Galerie Courbe had been transformed for the day into a luxurious Maharaja’s palace. We were seated at an almost surreal banquet, transported by gentle jasmine aromas as they feasted their eyes on the Paris‐Bombay collection. For more photos of the decor, please have a look at the previous post by clicking here.

The show whisked me away to a Bombay dripping with opulence. “It’s a concept of India. More Chanel than India. The Parisian version of an India that doesn’t exist,” elaborated Karl Lagerfeld. He could not have described it better. It was a very modern extraordinary take on the India without being a masquerade. The designer played with the details and made me crave for every single look. But see for yourself:

Under the glow of chandeliers and ceiling lights, the Paris ‐ Bombay collection evoked a new femininity. The charm of India, the pomp and splendour of fabrics and the magic of gemstones intermingled with the Chanel aesthetic of cascading pearls, contrasting black and white, and braided tweed jackets.

One of my favourite looks was this hot pink dream!

The probably most Indian-inspired looks presented a new stunning silhouette of the sari in a modern masculine‐feminine concept, inspired by Maharajah style, glorified in splendid draped fabric, and ultra‐feminine in a dainty jacket with diamante epaulettes. Inspired by the achkan, the brocade jacket with Nehru collar was manifested here in a series of alter‐egos: a gold‐embroidered darted jacket with pearl braiding, a white plastron jacket with mirror‐embroidered pockets, a darted half‐belt jacket with baroque‐pearl‐studded collar, a riding jacket and crested blazers with tailored shoulders.

Needless to say, the jewelry was divine. You would like to own every single piece!

The “bride” appeared on the runway in an embroidered ivory silk crepe dress draped over the body and head. Cue the sensuous rustle of saris exiting the Maharajah’s palace to decorate cities everywhere.

THE ACCESSORIES:

Karl Lagerfeld reinterpreted the already iconic Chanel Boy Bag in many different versions. The bi-coloured one below with the embellished strap can be only described as absolutely divine!

All shoes were flat with thigh‐boot flats stamped with arabesque motifs that marvellously set off the most luxuriant materials. Get yourselves on the wait lists now!

HAIR & MAKE UP:

Jewel‐buttons, jewelled bindis were adorning the forehead. The hair was done in a Rasta style. The focus of the make up was laying on the eyes with a heavy kohl embellishing the smokey eyes. Peter Philips, Creative Director of Chanel Make up, came up with a graphic, mysterious interpretation of an iconic Indian beauty.

On the nails: The new Le Vernis Diwali that Peter Philips had specially created for the Chanel Paris-Bombay Métiers d’Art show! This new light golden shade which will hit the shelves around June 2012 will be a must next summer.

THE MUSE:

No Chanel show without Karl Lagerfeld’s muse: Baptiste Giabiconi.

And last but not least some hard facts about the stunning Paris-Bombay decor:

– 50 meter long buffet table
– Flowers: roses; jasmin or lotus flowers
– Small train which distributes beverages (100 meter rail) around the buffet
– Bell jars, danishes, fruits baskets, glass ornement chandeliers….
– Floor: sequined sand, roses petals

I am definitely not exaggerating by saying that this was the most amazing show I have ever been to! Thank you, Karl!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht