Sandra‘s Closet

Last Thursday, I was invited by Marionnaud to an intimate press lunch at George Bar & Grill in Zurich to discover exclusive perfumes by renowned and new brands that enrich the Marionnaud portfolio. Among those beautiful novelties, I found one niche fragrance house that has truly impressed me: ELEMENTALS, a collection of active perfumes, created according to the ancient chinese theory of the five elements, water, wood, fire, earth and metal, that create a connection and inspire a heightened sense of well-being. Only the most noble essential oils have been macerated in organic alcohol to transmit the beauty and energetic poser of each element in its natural state.

At lunch with Deana Wyland-Fries, Founder of ELEMENTALS

The brain behind the brand is Canadian-born and German-based Deana Wyland-Fries, feng shui consultant, teacher and master in Chinese horoscopes turned alchemist. She has lived on and traveled five continents, speaks five languages fluently and shares the memories of her journeys through the visualization of scent. ELEMENTALS is the quintessence of 20 years of experience along with 10 years of research and development. The result is a yet unseen marriage of ancient wisdom and the art of perfumery, with the sole purpose of enhancing the life force within you.

«Feng shui is the study of humans and the environment in time and space. Using scent to enhance energy in the context of feng shui and Chinese astrology did not occur to me until one fateful day in my garden in Dubai. I had just eaten a tangerine and absent-mindedly picked a kumquat blossom. I squeezed the two together and inhaled the scent. It was at this moment that I realized that I had created pure Wood Chi. It suddenly hit me. I wanted to use the power of scent to balance the elemental constellation in my client’s horoscopes!» – Deana Wyland-Fries

That was the beginning of a fascinating new journey and 10 years later, in September 2018, the lifestyle brand ELEMENTALS was born that is transforming the perfume landscape by taking the physical and emotional attributes of the elements into consideration using rare woods, florals, herbs and spices to create perfumes that are not only divine, but also envelope the individual in an immediate sense of well-being.

The ancient theory of the five elements – water, wood, fire, earth and metal – is fundamental to feng shui, as well as and Chinese horoscopes, traditional Chinese medicine and martial arts. Each direction of the compass, every hour, every minute, each organ in the human body as well as our emotions can be allocated to an element. What’s more, each individual is born with an element that governs his or her life. It is the constellation of the elements and their intricate relationship of growth, depletion and conflict that governs our lives. If our self-element suffers an imbalance within this constellation, so do we. We become stressed and off balance. We can, however, alleviate that imbalance by introducing the element that we need into our lives.

Deana states: «The secret to happiness, health and success is maintaining a perfect balance of the elements both around and within us. The olfactory is the strongest of our five senses as it is intrinsically linked to the brain. There are many tools we can apply to enhance the elemental balance in our bodies and our lives. My experience has shown that there is no faster way to enhance a person’s energy or sense of well-being than through the beauty of fragrance.»

Throughout our lives, we are instinctively drawn to the elements that are key to our well-being. This is the fundamental premise for choosing your ELEMENTALS fragrance. ELEMENTALS are not about which element you are. They are about what element you need at present. Deana asked us to smell the five fragrances and to choose our favorite one. Without her telling, she afterwards made an analysis taking our birth date and hour into consideration. It was absolutely fascinating how the choice each of us made was linked to the element missing.

Personally speaking, I was really blown away as Deana told me I am a rare five element child, meaning I have all five elements in balance and can choose. The scent I was most drawn to was Earth which made sense for me at the moment. I am a balanced individual with all five elements present within me but different circumstances bring out their different properties.

So let’s get started and let me introduce you to the five fragrances. The smelling part you have to do yourself at Marionnaud. Listen to your body, it will show you what it needs! By the way, ELEMENTALS are gender neutral.

EARTH

Earth is central to everything. Under the right conditions, Earth gives us all that we need to nourish our body and soul.
ELEMENTALS Earth is a warm embrace that transports us to a calm, healing and balanced space. A nurturing and soothing fusion that cocoons and grounds body, mind and soul.
Heaven notes: Acanthus Flower, Chamomille, Mimosa, Immortelle, Maté
Human notes: Broom, YIang YIang, Beeswax, Nagarmotha
Earth notes: Ambregis, Guaiacum, Silver Birch, Sandalwood
Eau de Parfum – Made in France – 100ml – € 155 / CHF 179

WATER

Water is essential to all life on Earth and represents the height of Yin Energy.
ELEMENTALS Water conjures up the clarity and freshness of a mountain stream gushing through the hills after the first melt of snow. An uplifting yet calming blend of herbs and spices combined with florals and aquatic notes that nourish the soul.
Heaven notes: Black pepper, Wormwood, Angelica root
Human notes: Lavender, Clary Sage, Violet
Earth notes: Ambregis, Seaweed
Eau de Parfum – Made in France – 100ml – € 155 / CHF 179

WOOD

Wood represents Spring and the rising Energy of the East. It is about growth and creativity.
ELEMENTALS Wood awakens your senses like a walk inthe woods on a sunny Spring morning. Precious woods are combined with bold florals and uplifting citrus notes to kickstart your Chi !
Heaven notes: Bergamot, Cedar, Grapefruit
Human notes: Iris root, Tagetes, Geranium
Earth notes: Patchouli, Palosanto, Guaiacum
Eau de Parfum – Made in France – 100ml – € 155 / CHF 179

FIRE

Fire is the pinnacle of Yang Energy. It is about power and passion. It is sensual, fickle and explosive.
ELEMENTALS Fire is a warm spicy blend of naturals that ignite your sensuality and gently caress the soul. Splashes of Ginger and Bitter Orange combined with luscious blossoms, energizing spices and rare woods awaken your spirit.
Heaven notes: Pink Pepper, Ginger, Bitter Orange and a touch of Cinnamon
Human notes: Rose Otto, Neroli, Geranium, Cloves
Earth notes: Cistus, Frankinsence, Hysopus Oil
Eau de Parfum – Made in France – 100ml – € 155 / CHF 179

METAL

Metal is the clear, crisp, yet sometimes unsettling air of Autumn. It is a time of year when we look inward and reflect. Metal is about wisdom, true leadership and introspection.
ELEMENTALS Metal sparkles with the brilliance of courage, strength and inner wisdom. An innovative marriage of pungent herbs and spices, infused with a hint of Birch Tar that melts into a sea of white blossoms, revealing a bold olfactory experience that is both regal and divine.
Heaven notes: Coriander, Cardamon, Fennel, Birch Tar
Human notes: Casablanca Lily, Tuberose, Jasmine
Earth notes: White Musk, Silver Birch
Eau de Parfum – Made in France – 100ml – € 155 / CHF 179

«I have three treasures that I guard and hold dear: 
The first is love;
The second is contentment;
The third is humbleness.
Only the loving are courageous;
Only the content are magnanimous;
Only the humble are capable of commanding.»
– Lao Tze – from the Tao Te Ching

A new addition to the five ELEMENTALS collection is QUIAN.
The I Ching – otherwise known as the Book of Change uses Hexagrams to speak to us about the quality of time, space and movement. The 15th Hexagram is one the most beautiful of the I Ching. It is comprised of the earth trigram on top and the mountain trigram below. It speaks of finding the treasure within through cultivating humility.
Qian envelopes you in a beautiful, comforting and harmonious blanket of love, contentment and humility expressed through the power of simple, yet noble florals, resins and spices.
Heaven notes: Bergamot, Cypress, Violet Leaves, Saffron
Human notes: Rose Otto, Tolu, Labdanum, Nutmeg, Pink Pepper
Earth notes: Aganwood, Nagarmotha, Frangipani, Peru Absolute
Qian – Eau de Parfum – Made in France – 100ml – € 189 / CHF 219

Thank you to Marionnaud and my friends for this crazy journey last Thursday!

At ELEMENTALS, ethics, sustainability, integrity and purity of intent at the core of its operation. All packaging is hand made from virgin fibre in Europe by a small family manufacture in Germany. Only the finest raw materials are used macerated in organic alcohol to allow the purity and power of the elements to shine through. ELEMENTALS are gender neutral, vegan, cruelty free, phthalate free, humankind and bee friendly.

 ELEMENTALS Home and ELEMENTALS Spa are currently in the pipeline… stay tuned!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Marionnaud / ELEMENTALS and  © Sandra Bauknecht

The legendary fashion house Paco Rabanne that ruled in the 1960’s has started to make a comeback.

In 2011, Indian designer Manish Arora had been hired as Creative Director of Women’s Ready-to-Wear and showed his first collection for the French brand, owned by Puig Beauty and Fashion Group, for the S/S 2012 season during Paris Fashion Week. Now, after only two seasons at the helmet of the house, he left. A split that appeared abrupt and unexpected.

This week, the Paco Rabanne House announced the appointment of Lydia Maurer, 29 years of age, as the new Artistic Director.

Born in Germany of a Colombian mother and a German father, she travelled throughout her childhood, following her parents between Europe and South America. Then at sixteen: Paris, and fashion. In 2006, 24 years of age, freshly graduated from Studio Berçot, Lydia starts working for Yves Saint Laurent. This is where she learns the precision and discipline of a great Maison. A change of scenery the following year with the launch and development of Rue du Mail, with designer Martine Sitbon. For four years, Lydia will learn the ins and outs of the fashion industry: an enriching and intense journey. Third encounter with Parisian fashion in 2010, Lydia Maurer makes joins the Givenchy Womens-ready-to-Wear studio where she takes care of the capsule collection, capturing the essence of Riccardo Tisci’s vision of the prestigious house.

Last November, Lydia Maurer took the reins at the Paco Rabanne studio. A role tailored to her, a bespoke experience. Serving a fashion ever in motion, honoring the body, Lydia is sensitive to the alliance of cultures. Fascinated by 60s and 70s arts, which emphasize the material and can transform metal into divine sculptures, she naturally inscribes her universe of creation into the heritage of the Paco Rabanne House.

It rejoices her: “It is a great honor to be taking on the artistic direction of such an emblematic house at the heart of Parisian creation. I am very impressed by the creative power of Paco Rabanne, a House that from the very start strips out all conventions, using, among other things, an assemblage of unexpected materials. A creative approach based on both technology and craftsmanship, resulting in a fashion that is instinctive and playful”.

Lydia Maurer will present her first S/S 2013 collection in Paris this upcoming October.

Outrageous and sometimes impractical designer Paco Rabanne came onto the scene in 1966, when he showed his first collection, a provocative manifesto titled “12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials”, the dresses embellished with rhodoid sequins and plaques. Clothes suddenly became an artistic expression of their time. Courting scandal and plaudits, Paco Rabanne never mellowed in his mission to question the process of thinking and showing fashion, preempting the conceptual turn that designers would take as the 21st century neared.

Paco Rabanne 1966 – Photographed by Ed Pfizenmaier

With one-off handmade pieces, pioneering the recycling of materials, event clothing, and ephemeral items, throughout his career Paco Rabanne reveled in experimenting with revolutionary projects and adapting materials for his own uses: hammered metal, knitted fur, aluminum jersey, dresses made from paper or fluorescent leather or fiber glass, to mention just a few of the more emblematic examples.

Paco Rabanne – Vogue Paris 1969

In 1971, he was recognized as a couturier by his peers when he became a member of the storied Chambre Syndicale de la Couture.

In 1999, after more than thirty years of internationally acclaimed creativity, Paco Rabanne announced his retirement from the world of fashion. In 2010 he was decorated an Officer of the Legion d’Honneur by the Frech culture minister, a timely acknowledgement of his work as a visionary designer and innovation originator in the world of fashion.

Here are some of his iconic pieces:

1966 – Dress in aluminium disks

 

1996  – Plastic and metal bubble dress

 

1997 – Plastic and silvered metal space

 

1997 – Dress in transparent rhodoid and water

Given the history of the label, I hope that Paco Rabanne will be back amongst the most renowned avant-garde fashion brands in the very near future.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Paco Rabanne

Here are some exciting news: Giorgio Armani is designing Lady Gaga’s wardrobe for her Born This Way Ball tour which kicks off in Seoul on April 27th. It is not the designer’s first time collaborating with Lady Gaga.

Remember her series of outfits specially designed for her that she wore on the occasion of the 2010 Grammy Awards ceremony, followed by a number of red carpet events.

“Collaborating with Lady Gaga is always an exciting experience for me. I admire the way she uses fashion as a scenic element and as a means to build a character,” says Giorgio Armani. “She is an artist of many talents and great intelligence. Creating stage costumes for her is a stimulating and creative exercise.”

The custom Giorgio Armani wardrobe created for Lady Gaga is characterized by extreme forms and futuristic materials – latex, metal, studs, PVC – crafted with couture savoir faire. Each outfit is completed with detailed, other-worldly accessories.
Enjoy your sneak preview of Armani’s amazing theatrical sketches:

The first design includes a black bodice made of tubular PVC elements connected with metal studs, with mirrored metal inserts to define a curvaceous design. The ensemble is highlighted by a matching headpiece, robotic thigh-high boots, and exaggerated gloves ending in mirrored nails.

Another look is created via a shiny black grid-patterned PVC bodice with matching headpiece and embroidered ankle boots.  Highlights include shoulders outlined by a play of sharp spikes, black Swarovski jet crystals and flowing fringe, creating a moving architecture.

On the third black bodice, transparent Plexiglas, black crystals and luminous studs create a Cubist composition of abstract guitars. The matching headpiece follows in the shape of a keyboard; the boots are black vinyl.

The final design is a long tunic with leg-o-mutton sleeves made of skin-toned latex. Luminous PVC elements create flashes of synthetic light inside the garment. The same avant garde lighting is featured on the triangle decorating the chest, on the headpiece, and on the platform of the matching latex ankle boots.

This is definitely not a “Bad Romance” between Lady Gaga and Giorgio Armani!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani