Sandra‘s Closet

Having explored the olfactory culture of the Middle East since 2018, Les Parfums Louis Vuitton now make a new stopover. Following Ombre Nomade, Les Sables Roses, Nuit de Feu and Pur Oud, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud composes a tribute to three native Middle Eastern flowers that over the centuries have become emblematic of perfumery all over the world: jasmine, a symbol of beauty from the Far East to the Mediterranean; orange blossom, which has been used in the region since Antiquity; and rose, one of the most famous varieties of which originated in Damascus. For the fifth opus in this collection, Louis Vuitton’s Master Perfumer wanted to capture these natural wonders in their original setting: gathered in a «nectar of flowers,» they blossom at the heart of a rich and resolutely sophisticated oriental composition. More than a perfume: a signature.

The Splendors of the Desert

In the desert, everything is magnified. This theater of extremes has fascinated and inspired stories since the dawn of time. Its immensity invites us to dream even further. Despite its hostile environment, the desert conceals spectacular wonders. Unforgettable emotions…

Amid the expanse of sand, a touch of color catches the travelers’ eye and makes them stop in their tracks. A corolla of petals. The unexpected presence of a plant in a vast, mineral ocean. At once fragile and strong, this flower has braved the omnipotence of the elements to express a beauty that is all the more sumptuous. It is life that springs forth against all odds, foiling the impossible. A miracle, poised at the boundary of reality and magic.

A Nectar of Flowers

From his many visits to the Middle East, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud carries in his memory striking contrasts. Arid dunes skirting the sea. Scorching days succeeded by freezing nights. A sumptuous palace rising from the heart of the desert, an architectural treasure breaking the monotony of sand like a mirage. To compose Fleur du Désert, he immersed himself in the «absolute beauty» of an oasis with lush vegetation, encountered during a morning walk in the Saudi Arabian desert not far from Jeddah. Moved by the power of such life defying the aridity of the landscape – an «eminently optimistic symbol» – Louis Vuitton’s Master Perfumer captured the image in a colorful signature brimming with contrasts. The delicacy of a bouquet of fresh flowers, exalted by the depth of an oriental trail.

Jasmine, orange blossom, rose: originally from the Middle East, these three flowers became emblems for Western perfumery. «They were brought to Europe by caravan from different regions in the Orient,» explains Jacques Cavallier Belletrud. «My idea was simply to stage these natural wonders in their original setting.» Directly inspired by the history and origins of perfumery, Fleur du Désert celebrates the essential contribution of the Middle East, the birthplace of this millennia-old art.

The House’s Master Perfumer selected the finest qualities of these flowers that he knows by heart as they are redolent of his native region: Grasse. Two essences obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction faithfully reproduce the scents of the fresh flowers at the center of his composition: Grandiflorum jasmine, tinged with the honeyed accents of orange blossom absolute, emanates its delicately radiant scent, while the Centifolia rose reveals the sublime softness of its petals. This precious bouquet is an ode to the art of perfume, enveloped in an oriental accord with original tonalities of spices and honey.
«I didn’t want an oriental accord in the Western sense of the term, but rather one that truly speaks of the culture and beauty that are unique to that region,» the perfumer explains. Oud Assam, also known as «black gold» — a treasure of Middle Eastern perfumery — expresses its unprecedented olfactory richness through an exceptional essence, distilled for two centuries by a family of producers in Bangladesh who have become the exclusive supplier to Louis Vuitton. Woody, animalic, spicy, amber… its deep scent is rounded by a honeyed note that responds to the suavest facets in the floral bouquet. Touched by a whisper of cinnamon, warm as the desert wind, this opulent trail embraces the skin with the sensuality of Ambrox, then melts into the naturally musky softness of ambrette seed. Enveloped in precious ingredients, this «nectar of flowers» reveals its absolute sophistication as the hours pass…

Louis Vuitton and the Middle East: A Legacy of Signatures

Introduced with Ombre Nomade in 2018, Les Parfums Louis Vuitton‘s tribute to Middle Eastern olfactory culture is not limited to its ingredients, nor to its territories of inspiration. Fragrance after fragrance, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud reaffirms the connection between his personal creative process and Middle Eastern perfumery, which share a singular love for textured, sophisticated fragrances. The son and grandson of perfumers, he observes that «Truly great perfumes have olfactory imprints that are distinctive and instantly memorable.» In a word: they are signatures. Guided by this conviction from his earliest creations, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud has naturally developed a strong affinity with lovers of Middle Eastern perfumery. Through this collection, he reveres the culture and curiosity that drives them to explore all olfactory families, well beyond the clichés to which Western perfumery sometimes confines them. «What defines a »Middle Eastern» perfume is not a question of notes, in my opinion,» he «It is rather a matter of textures and complexity. Undeniable elegance and presence.»

The Colors of the Desert

With the perfumes in this Middle Eastern-inspired collection, Louis Vuitton offers a palette of vibrant blacks that capture the colors of the desert and the multiple nuances of its mysteries. Crafted in precious glass that appears black at first glance, the House’s iconic perfume bottle reveals a deep, intense cast when touched by light. Fleur du Désert reveals pinkish reflections evoking the sumptuous hue of a freshly bloomed flower. Like the desert surrendering its most beautiful secrets to those who know how to look…

Eau de Parfum Fleur du Désert 100ml, 320€
In-store refill 100ml, 190€

Eau de Parfum Fleur du Désert 200ml, 495€
In-store refill 200ml, 380€

Available at select Louis Vuitton stores and from louisvuitton.com.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton #LVParfums #louisvuitton
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.

Summer, captured in scent. Discover the new limited-edition collection inspired by delicate blossoms, citrus fruits and floating blooms.

NEW SPRING BLOSSOMS
Yuja: A citrus to enliven the senses. The mouthwatering fizziness of this striking fruit is enhanced with woody depths.
Fragrance Combining™ with Wood Sage & Sea Salt for a spicy and fresh scent.
Yuja Cologne 30ml CHF 74.–, 100ml CHF 142.–

Waterlily: Radiant white waterlilies, crown jewels of a secret garden pond. Their pristine petals release a clean floralcy that stirs and enchants.
Fragrance Combining™ with English Pear & Freesia for a blossoming, gourmand scent.
Waterlily Cologne 30ml CHF 74.–, 100ml CHF 142.–

Nectarine Blossom & Honey Cologne Pen: Our playful fruity scent in an innovative new Cologne Pen, designed to take with you. Succulent and sweet.
Nectarine Blossom & Honey Cologne Pen, CHF 37.–

REDISCOVER BELOVED BLOSSOMS
Osmanthus: Delicately exotic, these tiny white blossoms capture the duality of soft, apricot sweetness against contrasting deep, warming notes. Luscious and luminous.
Fragrance Combining™ with Peony & Blush Suede for a flirtatious and juicy scent.
Osmanthus Blossom Cologne 30ml CHF 74.–, 100ml CHF 142.–

Silk Blossom: Nature’s blooms at their most tempting. The sweet scent of silk tree blossom, irresistible to hummingbirds and butterflies. Joyful and apricot-fresh.
Fragrance Combining™ with Wild Bluebell for a fresh floral scent.
Silk Blossom Cologne 30ml, CHF 74.–, 100ml, CHF 142.–

LIMITED EDITION ORANGE BLOSSOM
A shimmering garden oasis, imagined for your home. Scent your space with a special-edition Diffuser or spread this delightful floral fragrance with the new Home Candle. Sparkling and blooming.
Orange Blossom Home Candle 200g, CHF 86.–
Orange Blossom Diffusor, CHF 96.–

In stores now, only for a limited time.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Jo Malone
Follow: @JoMaloneLondon #BrilliantBlossoms

Here is your anti-gloom remedy, a cheerful interpretation to be creative. Meet the fun universe of SOLINOTES and their eaux de parfum that were specifically developed to be worn alone, or layered to create a unique signature scent. With a collection of 15 unique fragrances, a multitude of scented combinations can be created to suit your personality, style and mood. A simple concept which, like a fashion accessory, gives each woman the freedom to flaunt her own identity and express her femininity!

My favorite combination for summer: Tiare and Vanilla

How does it work?

1. Pick up two fragrances you would like to mix
2. Spray on your skin to associate the fragrances together
3. Enjoy your unique perfume

The Essentials: Orange Blossom, Vanilla, Tiare, Cherry Blossom
Floral Scents: Frangipani Flower, Jasmin Blossom, Iris Blossom, Fig Tree Blossom
Novelties: Pink Grafruit, Yuzu, White Tea, Pomegranate
Timeless Perfumes: Musk, Rose, Blackberry

To get off to a faultless start, I recommend to spice up a floral bouquet with citrus, or to mix a fruit note with vanilla.

In Switzerland, the collection is exclusively available at Manor for CHF 15.90 (50ml) and CHF 9.90 (15ml) each. Create your own perfume book and write a new chapter each day depending on your mood!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Solinotes, © Sandra Bauknecht

Rumours were out for a long time, now it is official! In 2016, the Maison Louis Vuitton is preparing to explore new territory after 70 years: perfume.

The new 7-piece fragrance collection. Even the bottles designed by Marc Newson are on point.

While unprecedented and firmly anchored in the House’s history, this olfactory path is not unchartered territory. Quite the contrary: it is informed by the trunk-maker’s legendary fondness for the vanity cases, travel asks and fragrances stamped Louis Vuitton that were created throughout the 20th century.

Toilets accessories from a Cora case in leather, 1927

By way of an olfactory prelude, the Maison Louis Vuitton unveils its creative atelier in the heart of Grasse, in the Provence region of France; the unique background of House Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, and the palette of exclusive raw materials he has assembled since his arrival. It is an invitation to travel, a prologue to an imminent departure…

ITINERARY OF A GRASSE NATIVE

Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, Louis Vuitton Master perfumer, 2016

Named Maître Parfumeur of Louis Vuitton in 2012, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud traveled the world for four years to perfect the first collection of Louis Vuitton perfumes.

Facade of the Bastide, Les Fontaines Parfumées, Grasse

As a schoolboy in Grasse, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud would walk by an imposing portal. He had no idea what sat behind the wrought iron gates that so intrigued him. Little could he have imagined that, in 2016, this very place would become his creative workshop.

At that time, fragrance still fanned through every street and alleyway in Grasse. One only had to breathe in to know what the perfume factories were distilling that day. Orange blossom, citronella, lavender, Jacques already knew those ingredients, by heart.

Burst of May roses from Grasse

At the age of eight, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud went to his father, a perfumer, and told him he wanted to follow in his footsteps. He learned perfume notes the way other children practiced piano scales. Every evening, his father gave him perfume blotters, dipped in essence and he would have to wait until daybreak to write a detailed description in the notebooks he kept with care. When he got good grades in school, his father allowed him to weigh out formulas. The day after receiving his high school diploma, he began working in a perfume factory in Grasse, where he learned to distill flowers. At 18, he created his first formula — but his father reminded him that becoming a perfumer takes much more than mixing a few scents together…

Years later, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud proved his parent right. With the development of the Vuitton-exclusive fragrance palette, he has gone one step beyond using the latest fragrance extraction technology, of course.

Emblematic Louis Vuitton natural leather

For example, while there are existing molecules simulating the smell of leather in perfumery today, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud insisted that the Vuitton perfume workshop makes their own. Using the light beige leather that covers the handles and straps of Maison’s trunks and handbags, the exquisite scent of the Vuitton leather is extracted following complex steps of steeping in alcohol and clarification until a clear and crystalline liquid is obtained. Free of any hints of sharpness or smokiness, the end result is soft, refined and utterly Vuitton.

Extraction process of the Louis Vuitton leather infusion.

And that’s not all. Jacques Cavallier Belletrud also uses the supercritical CO2 extraction method on precious fresh flowers like the Centifolia rose and jasmine. Exclusive to Maison Louis Vuitton, this method doesn’t use any heat so as to ensure that all of the delicate flowers’ scent facets are protected and retained.

Centifolia rose from Grasse, immersed in the fountain water, Les Fontaines Parfumées, Grasse.

THE FACE

Léa Seydoux

By way of this visual prelude, the Maison Louis Vuitton unveils a first hint of the upcoming campaign: “Beyond Perfume”. French actress Léa Seydoux is the face of the new Louis Vuitton fragrances.

A COLLECTION OF SEVEN OLFACTORY EMOTIONS From the airiness of Rose des Vents to the intoxicating Turbulences, the ecstasy of a first night with Dans la Peau to the mindful immersion in nature with Apogée; from the self-revealing Contre Moi to an exploration of a darker side with Matière Noire and the explosion of the senses with Mille Feux… Les parfums Louis Vuitton describe a journey of emotions.

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton will be available from September 1st, 2016.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Nature’s blooms at their most tempting. The nectarous, pink-fringed pompoms of Silk Blossom. Irresistible to hummingbirds and butterflies. Apricot-fresh with a touch of spice. Airy with clouds of powder-soft heliotrope, nestling on a bed of moss. Fruity and enticing.
JO MALONE has captured spring in a bottle.

FRUITY FLORAL

Top note: White Pepper
Middle note: Silk Blossom
Base note: Moss

Fragrance Combining™: Orange Blossom

Available from May 2014.
(In Switzerland from May 21, 2014 at Jelmoli Zurich and Globus Geneva).
Cologne 30ml CHF 68 / £41
Cologne 100ml CHF 130 / £82
Home Candle 200g £42

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Jo Malone

I love to have a subtle shimmer on my tanned skin in summer. Personally speaking, I think that it makes you look so much more radiant. Therefore I would like to introduce you to two  newly launched products that are beautifully scented while leaving your skin with the perfect golden glow.

Roger Gallet takes you on an olfactive journey into the Andalucian gardens of the Alhambra in Grenada under the orange trees of the Generalife Palace. Capture the vibrant sunshine, as well as the freshness of the leaf and the fruit, the softness of the flower and the fresh sensuality of orange wood.

Top notes: Bergamot, mandarin and orange
Middle notes: Ylang, orange blossom and coconut
Base notes: Cedarwood, vanilla and musk

Eau Sublime Or Bois d’Orange CHF 59.60 (100ml)

Inspired by the luxurious gardens of the Alhambra, Eau Sublime Or takes you on an exotic olfactory journey. Once sprayed – citrus fruits from Italy refresh and delight, revealing themselves a few minutes after spraying, floral & feminine heart notes of ylang, orange blossom and coconut flower are sublimely sensual. The final touch of glamour & chic – delicate flecks of gold settle on your skin in a subtle shimmer, beautifying the skin with radiance.
Does not stain clothing.

Crème Sublime Or Bois d’Orange CHF 34.90 (200ml)

An indulgent beauty ritual of summer glamour, illuminate your skin with Crème Sublime Or. Enriched with a cocktail of 6 nourishing oils (Macadamia, Argan, Camelia, Primrose, Sesame and gentle Almond), this luxurious body cream with a delicious and enchanting fragrance, moisturises and softens your skin for lasting hydration. Its delicate flecks of gold give a subtle illuminating effect. Rich but non-greasy, quickly absorbed by the skin. No parabens. Dermatologically tested.

For store locations, please visit the Roger Gallet’s homepage.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Roger Gallet

Meet ROJA DOVE, one of the most famous noses in the world.
Born 1957 in Southeast England, his career in perfumery began in 1981 when he joined the French perfume house Guerlain, working there for 20 years before leaving to set up his own companies RDPR and then Roja Parfums.

Dove, the fragrance connoisseur’s connoisseur, is probably the world’s most quoted perfume expert and was the first person to use the term HAUTE PARFUMERIE, when he opened in 2004 the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie on the fifth floor of Harrods. Within one year, Cartier, Caron, Jean Patou, and Guerlain followed.

I was very honoured to meet Roja Dove personally at the beautiful La Boutique du Palace in Lausanne, Switzerland (which belongs to the Lausanne Palce & Spa hotel), the location of the newly opened second Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie. The collaboration was born from a dream and a passionate encounter between Emeline Gauer (see photo on top) and Roja himself, offering a selection of pure and rare fragrances, among them, of course, Roja Parfums.

When you enter the boutique, you enter a world of pure luxury, a one of a kind, sumptuous and exuberant experience of the best of the very best in the world of scent. Set amongst beautiful vintage furnishings, mirrors, silk and crystal, you can immerse yourself in the sensory heaven of fragrance as it should be: lavish, luxurious, sensual, decadent and daring.

Enjoy the photos and the interview with Roja Dove in which you will learn a lot about the world of perfumery, what makes you truly sexy and the creative process behind it.

Roja, how did you start Roja Parfums? What is your idea behind the brand?

I had dinner with a very close friend. We were talking about different brands. She was laughing and said: “You always get the essence of a brand”, and she continued, “It is a shame that you don’t do it with your own.” I asked her what she meant by that. “Everywhere in the world, I see your name in articles written on perfume. But as a consumer how do I buy into your world if I don’t want to spend £25.000 on a bespoke scent?” That was the catalyst to launch Roja Parfums.

I called a group of friends that all work in business but not in perfumery. They came up in a think tank of what is Roja Dove, what is the perception, the reality and what should Roja Dove be. What came out of it was everything that people perceived of me: Uncompromising, quality, the nose, authenticity and theatre.

We decided that those were the pillars that the brand should be about and we started on it. Regarding the packaging, I liked the idea of the white. It is the most decadent and luxurious thing in the world, that doesn’t look decadent and violet is my favourite colour. Inside you get the idea of understated luxury, with a surprise, the little theatre-like curtains. I wanted to be different and reach a fine level of aesthetics.

Roja Dove it is not a brand for everybody, not that I wanted it to be. It is a truly luxury product. Every single aspect is made by hand, like the boxes and the carrier bags. The liquid is filled into the bottles by hand in England, even the labels are applied manually.

How can I imagine the process to create a perfume ?

The way I trained is old-fashioned and I still think that this is the proper way to do it.

Let me get you started on the opposite, the gas chromatography. Anything that smells can be put in a mashine that breaks down the oils or the perfume. Like this, the chemist can see analyze the formula. But you can only do it succesfully with a scent that has a lot of synthetic materials.

The reason why is the complexity of the natural components. Let’s take jasmine for example which has approximately 900 different molecules in it to make the one scent that is jasmine. Behind the 900 main molecules, there are smaller ones that nobody has analyzed yet. We don’t know what they are. They are the subtlety of nature. Nevertheless, the chemists can isolate some of the big molecules. From jasmine alone, there are 300 isolates which are extracted. Many of which are used in the perfumery. But there are still 600 left to be discovered. All the subtlety behind that we have no idea what it is.

Interesting to know is that the discovery of natural isolates in 1882 among others allowed modern perfumery to begin. It gave us new materials from a natural source to use. The natural isolates were the world’s first synthetics, because synthetic just means to make things from something else. They gave us new fantasy notes, which, when you smelled them, were absolutely new, providing us with originality.

Gas chromatography allows us to analyze a fragrance formula. If you take  for example a perfume like Escape by Calvin Klein, that has a material in it which is called calone made by Pfizer. It is a molecule with one single structure without any subtelty. It doesn’t have 500 or whatever components; it is one thing. The same material you will find in L’Eau d’Issey. The more synthetic a perfume, the easier for the chemists to look into the structure on the gas chromatograph and to analyze the formula.

The most perfumes made come from a handful of small houses, such as IFF, Givaudain and Firmenich. The reality is that often they don’t need to perform the gas chromatography, because they do most of the formulas.

The way I work is before gas chromatography. I always start very unusually, with the name for the perfume. I am sitting in the garden  drinking tea with my partner Peter and we both will write down names we can come up with. Then, we go to the trademark lawyer to check on their availabilty. Once we have the name, I begin the next step. The way my palette of fragrance is made, I think, nobody has ever looked at perfumes before.

I believe very strongly that each of us tends to like fragrances from one family and not the others. The problem with marketing is that people hear the brand name or see the imaginary and believe that two perfumes are different which they are not. Let’s look at Gucci Envy, monochrome, urban, the advertising is about a very passionate couple. In contrary, Estée Lauder’s Pleasures shows a woman in a field with poppies. Because of the imaginery and the opposite brands, the customer thinks that one is sexy and one is romantic. But those two scents are actually not even similiar, they are nearly identical.

How I approach my perfume collection is that I try to make a very balanced palette. I don’t think anybody has ever done that with smell before. We have just launched the range in July 2011, the palette isn’t a balanced one yet, so this year we will have a lot of launches to complete it in the end of the year. Whatever we add to it, is just an addition.

We have three floral sents. Scandal, a white floral, heavy, powderising. Innuendo, a powdery floral. Reckless, an aldehydic floral.

I knew that I needed a fresh floral and created Mischief, which is a fabulous word. Mischievous – You know that you are up to no good and hope that you are not caught but it is just a flower.

After the name, I have to work on a structure. How should this perfume be? Something a little bit naughty and simultaneously a freshness with it. This is my creative process.

Generally you find freshness in perfumery  through three or four main roots. You either take the citrus materials, the aromatic materials like herbs (often combined), certain flowers that are fresh like lily of the valley or hyacinth, or you get freshness in the base of a perfume through galbanum and  violet leaf.

I didn’t want it to be that typical green, not a citrus perfume. Quite unusually, I put the freshness in every area of the structure and I also used a natural isolate, which comes from jasmine, called dihydrojasmonate, very citrusy smelling that lasts and lasts. In general a freshness diasappears very easily, with Mischief it stays on. The animalic notes are hidden, that is the mischief in the perfume, it has a little sexiness there without being intrusive.

Danger was created, when I was working on the oriental facette. I wanted to make a very particular type of oriental. I didn’t want a typically avowedly vanillic, I didn’t want a perfume that smelled like Shalimar, Dior Addict, the big vanilla perfumes. Most people’s idea of oriental perfumes is that they are enormous. I wanted an oriental perfume, that had a loft of finesse and  all the softness, that wasn’t a clicheé. The name was chosen because it is not dangerous for the person wearing it, it is dangerous for the person smellling it on the wearer. They wouldn’t realise that the vanilla is a aphrodisiac and this jasmine contains indole.

Indole is a natural occuring molecule, a natural isolate, found in all scented white flowers. Interesting to know is that we actually don’t smell with our nose, we smell with the primitive part of our brain. The rational part will think that it is jasmine. The subconscious part picks up on a different message. You have to bear in mind that the sense of smell is the oldest sense in living organisms. It is developped to fulfill three functions, to escape danger, to pick up food and to find  a mate. The indolic note will make  you think of one thing and one thing only, sex! The human race produces indole. It comes out on the skin and is collected by the root of the hair chaft. Therefore hairy men seem to be more virile. When you smell Danger on a woman, your brain picks up the aphrodisiac vanilla and the indolic note of jasmine. Can you see how dangerous the perfume is now?!

The reason for the name Scandal is because of the white flowers. The jasmine of Grasse is so expensive, it has the highest proportion of indole in it. If the customer knew what was going on in his brain, it might cause a scandal.

Do you have some signature ingredients that you love and always use? Which one is the most expensive material?

In every perfume, I use a little vanilla and a little jasmine, always bergamot, either neroli or orange blossom, always rose de Mai, jasmine from Grasse, it is my signature. Ambergris costs £100.000 a kilo, I use a little in all of my work, it is my favourite raw material.

Your own favourite scent?

I am most proud of Diaghilev and Vetiver that will hopefully endure through history.

Enslaved is probably one of the most complicated formulas which makes the perfume uncommercial. Customers appreciate its level of sophisctication that can hardly be found anywhere else.

Which one is your bestselling product?

The Aoud is the number one bestselling product since July 2nd in Harrods. We have the third largest brand in Harrods. All my products sell for the best reason in the world: People love the smell!

Have you ever thought of launching body products matching your perfumes?

The problem is that we could never make them commercially. Most companies will never use the same formula for the body product as they use for their fragrances. Therefore most body products never smell like the original perfume. I think the idea of matching body prodcus is amazing but hard to achieve on my level of quality.

And what about your scented candles?

I spent two and  a half years doing the candles. They were the most difficult thing I every made in my life. When the patchouli candle was launched, I had the same in my house. It didn’t burn properly and I took them all of the market immediately.

To make jasmine oil, you have to take the flower which is picked by hand. You need  5mio flowers to make a kilo of oil, 200 hours of labour. People don’t realise the work behind this and natural oils are rarely used for scented candles. In my candles, the oil you smell is the same as you smell in my perfumes. I use at least 10% of rose de Mai which is so rare. I don’t knwo anybody who does it. Even the people in my company sometimes think that I am mad.

You were with Guerlain for 20 years. Why did you leave?

In Guerlain, it is very important to say, the perfumes are always a work of the Guerlain family. During my time there, it was sold to LVMH in 1994 which was fine, I like change. But I didn’t like a lot of things personally what happened to the firm, they were outsourcing perfumes which made me leave.

Now Guerlain is back in safe hands because Thierry Wasser is a great perfumer. It went through a phase that I didn’t like, but I had a marvellous time there and wouldn’t change a scrap of it.

Where can you buy Roja Dove in the world?

At the minute, you can only buy Roja Parfums in Harrods, Lausanne Palace Boutique and Tsum in Moskow. We will open in Saint Petersburg, Abu Dhabi, Dubai and later in the year in Hong Kong. The perfumes have a cult status, we supply 2/3 of the royal family in the Middle East already.

Personally speaking, I could have talked forever with Roja. He is so captivating and eloquent. His perfumes are amazing. Enslaved is my absolute favourite. He gave me a piece of advice for life that has absolutely impressed me because I had never thought of it like this before:
“Smell makes everyone equal, no matter the age, weight, height or race. Perfume will always remain loyal to you!”

If I whetted your appetite, I recommend visiting this jewel in Lausanne or to contact the shop directly via e-mail: laboutiquedupalace@lausanne-palace.ch.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

For Spring 2012, the “Jean Paul Gaultier Classique X Collection” has launched a lighter variation:

“Jean Paul Gaultier Classique X Collection L’Eau” which has peony and orange blossom accords and top notes of bergamot zest along with neroli, vanilla and iris.

This time the legendary bottle is transparent and dressed in calligraphy to better reveal the crystalline soft pink fragrance.

Limited Edition “L’Eau” Classique, Eau de Toilette 100ml, CHF 107.-
Available now.

I love Jean Paul Gaultier’s new fragrance for men “Kokorico”.

Fig leaf, patchouli, cedar, cocoa and vetiver together exhale pure masculinity with a feminine accent.

A striking trompe l’oeil bottle, a man’s face when viewed from the front that turns into a sexy and virile torso in profile.

Kokorico Eau de Toilette, 50ml (CHF 85.-) / 100ml (CHF 117.-)
Kokorico After Shave Lotion 100ml (CHF 77.-)
Kokorico After Shave Balm 100ml (CHF 52.-)
Kokorico Shower Gel 200ml (CHF 40.-)
Kokorico Déodorant Stick 75gr (CHF 36.-)
Available now.

And here is a little teaser of what is coming next:

Jean Paul Gaultier’s new limited edition 2012 summer fragrances “Urban Jungle”
which will be in stores in May 2012.

Classique Summer 2012 (for women) opens with fresh notes of clementine from Sicily, rose and orange blossom. Exotic flower of ylang-ylang forms the perfume’s heart note together with petals of jasmine, lily of the valley and white iris, while the base notes are oriental and warm with amber, vanilla and fresh musk.

Limited Edition Classique Summer Eau de Toilette, 100ml (CHF 84.-)

—————————————-

Le Male Summer 2012 (for men) begins with fresh aromatic accords of lavender, mint and cardamom. The heart exudes green – it contains notes of green leaves and grass. Vanilla, sandalwood and musk complete this composition.

Limited Edition Le Male Summer 2012, Eau de Toilette, 125ml (CHF 80.-)

The signature bottles in the shape of male and female torsos and their can boxes are decorated with vivid design inspired by safari, an urban jungle, tropical leaves, flowers and vines.

Can you smell summer already?

LoL, Sandra

Just as there’s a tea to suit every taste and disposition, there is a Tea Cologne for every style and mood. Jo Malone unveils a limited edition collection, inspired by the most quintessential of British traditions: the Art of Tea. 

The Tea Collection, in five modern and unexpected fragrances, encapsulates Jo Malone’s hallmark simplicity and elegant restraint: Assam & Grapefruit, Earl Grey & Cucumber, Fresh Mint Leaf, Sweet Lemon and Sweet Milk.

And of course the Tea Collection lends itself to being personalised with Jo Malone’s unique philosophy of Fragrance Combining™. In true British style, the collection allows you to combine your Tea Fragrance Blend, with a dash of Sweet Lemon or a splash of Sweet Milk. 

You are invited to visit your nearest Jo Malone counter to test those lovely scents now.
Available in 30ml for CHF 68.

Assam and Grapefruit is a refreshing and energetic aroma, invigorating like the first morning cup of tea. It opens with notes of grapefruit, violet and rhubarb. The heart includes Assam Indian black tea and rose, spiced with cardamom and placed on the base of patchouli, almond and musk.

Top notes: grapefruit, violet, rhubarb
Heart: Assam tea, rose, cardamom
Base: patchouli, musk, almond

Earl Grey and Cucumber is a playful interpretation of the most famous English tea brand, made from black tea, bergamot and citruses. The composition opens with apple, bergamot, jasmine and aquatic notes, with cucumber, angelica and davana in the heart, on the base of vanilla, bees wax, cedar and musk.

Top notes: bergamot, apple, jasmine, water notes
Heart: angelica, cucumber, davana
Base: beeswax, vanilla, cedar and musk

Fresh Mint Leaf is a refreshing aroma based on green mint. It starts with notes of basil, mint, and bergamot. The heart is composed of water jasmine and rhubarb, laid on the base of mate tea, cedar and musk.

Top notes: basil, mint, bergamot
Heart: water jasmine, rhubarb
Base: mate, musk, cedar

Sweet Lemon is a fruity mixture that you can combine with any of the previous fragrances from this collection. The composition starts off with sparkling lemon, bergamot and rhubarb. Middle notes include pineapple, freesia and peach, placed on cypress, cedar and musk nuances.

Top notes: lemon, bergamot, rhubarb
Heart: pineapple, freesia, peach
Base: cypress, musk, cedar

Sweet Milk, as well as the previous fragrance, serves as an “additional tea flavor” and can be combined with the other fragrances of the collection. Its gourmand composition begins with star anise, heliotrope and bergamot. Milk and caramel are in the center, rounded by almond, vanilla and musk.

Top notes: star anise, heliotrope, bergamot
Heart: milk, caramel
Base: vanilla, almond, musk

Jo Malone will launch a new, limited-edition perfume from May 2011 called Sakura Cherry Blossom destined to celebrate the beauty and transiency of blossoming cherry trees in the springtime. The composition was created by perfumer Christine Nagel working in tandem with the Jo Malone Creative Studio in London.

“A symbol of beauty and new beginnings, cherry blossom trees grow throughout Japan and for centuries have been celebrated in every medium, from poetry to painting. No flower captures the Japanese aesthetic as powerfully as the cherry blossom.”

Top Notes: bergamot, mandarin, cardamom
Heart: rose, mimosa
Base: musk, woods

Sakura Cherry Blossom works very well in combination with French Lime Blossom or Orange Blossom.
Available in 30ml (CHF 68) or 100ml (CHF 130).

My personal favourite combinations are at the moment: Earl Grey & Cucumber with Sweet Milk and Cherry Blossom with French Lime Blossom.

Definitely my cup of tea!

LoL, Sandra

No wonder there is traditionally a queue around the block from her shops at Christmas. The name Jo Malone sends most women into a reverie of pristine cream boxes with black edging and grosgrain ribbons filled with original fresh scents.

The products are wonderful gifts. Even the tissue paper is misted with fragrance so that the Jo Malone experience starts already when lifting the lit.

As a child, Jo Malone would make her own perfumes with flowers from the garden and grated Camay soap. Her mother was a beautician and her father an artist.
She worked as a florist and gave facials in her kitchen at night. Soon she became one of London’s most sought-after skin care therapist. It was when she met her husband Gary at the age of 19, that their business, featuring handmade scents and products, took off. She gave her Nutmeg and Ginger Bath Oil as a thank you to her clients and the orders began to flood in.

Jo Malone opened her first store at 154 Walton Street in London in 1994. By 1999, she launched her flagship store in London’s Sloane Street. That same year her company was purchased by Estée Lauder with Jo Malone still at its UK helm as chairwoman and creative director. Then in 2006, she sold it to them in its entirety.

For deeper, richer dimension to your home, it’s decorating with scent that makes the difference. Shouldn’t the fragrance ambience of your home be as inviting as the fragrance on your skin?

For her, perfume and stories go hand in hand, each cologne has been inspired by a real moment. Think of fragrances as your little black dress. You can create your bespoke scent by mixing, matching and layering with other Jo Malone colognes for endless effects. Accessorize it extravagantly or pair it down, just follow your mood and make each day another statement.
This is the philosophy behind Jo Malone’s Fragrance Combining. In case you are worried that a cologne doesn’t last enough, you will be astonished how long the fragrances stay on. Especially in combination with the Jo Malone body products.

You can choose from all sorts of fragrance families such as floral, spicy or woody. For more details, please enjoy the collages below:

As I am a big fan of oriental, opulent fragrances, I am truly happy about Jo Malone’s new addition: The 4 new Colognes Intenses. Ingredients like rose water, amber, patchouli, vanilla, musk and oud give in combination a wonderful deepness to your bespoke scent. They were supposed to be limited but seem to stay in the collection due to their high demand.

To the left, you can see a photo of my very own bathroom and its little Jo Malone display.
For a store locator, please click here. For my Zurich based readers, I have good news. There is a Jo Malone corner now at Jelmoli.

LoL, Sandra