Sandra‘s Closet

Designer collaborations have had their time. Today, it is more trendy that two brands team up together, such as The North Face x Gucci, Jimmy Choo x Marine Serre and many more. However, H&M, the Swedish retailer, that made designer collaborations fashionable, is sticking to its concept, not as loud as before, but definitely something for the fashion-loving customer around the globe, as for the first time, the Simone Rocha universe is opened up and extended to everyone. Meet the London-based Irish designer and get a glimpse of what this year’s collaboration will bring.

Fashion Designer Simone Rocha

History and heritage. Details and fabrications. Family and community. The many facets of womanhood. For fashion designer Simone Rocha, born in Dublin in 1986, her work and collections are a tribute to what she holds dear. She began her career as part of the talent hub Fashion East, where her take on modern beauty won praise as she reclaimed ‘girlish’ elements — florals, embellishments, collars, pearls — in a nuanced manner. Since debuting at London Fashion Week in 2010, she has become internationally renowned for her intricate and meticulously-researched collections, always with a nod to her own heritage: Ireland and Hong Kong.

In creating the collection for H&M, Rocha spent time reflecting on and revisiting her brand’s archive, combing her past collections and carefully reworking beloved pieces into unexpected new designs that feel right for now.

«To be honest, it was really emotional going through all the pieces — it was a wonderful chance to reflect on seasons I was especially proud of, and to revisit collections that felt like milestones, and little gems of ideas that we maybe didn’t push as far as we wanted to the first-time round. The archive is so important to the way I work as a designer anyway. We are not a brand that abandons ideas each season — we often look back on past propositions or continue to evolve a silhouette, or shape,» says Rocha.

The Simone Rocha x H&M collection includes her signature womenswear alongside menswear and kidswear, marking the first time she has offered a wardrobe for the whole family. All the garments are designed to be in conversation with each other. So, what to expect from this year’s awaited collaboration? Delicate tulle dresses, tartan tailoring, beaded shirting, cable knits, outerwear such as trench coats and signature accessories like sparkling jewellery and pearl-embellished shoes. The entire range comes in Simone Rocha’s identifiable and poetic colour palette that mixes cream, pink, red and black. The majority of the Simone Rocha x HM women’s collection goes up to size EUR L=44/46 and UK L=16/18 and US XL=48/50.

«My approach at every stage of the design process was to remember that for some this would be an introduction to Simone Rocha, a chance to enjoy the brand for the first time, while for others this will be a chance to recall the history of a brand that they have followed for a while. Maybe they will be able to buy a version of a piece that they missed the first time, or a piece they always wanted but didn’t get. Through H&M, they will be able to access a new, timeless, special piece to mix in with their existing items from past runway collections. I really hope there is something for everyone — every woman, every guy, the whole family,» says Rocha.

Family is of utmost importance to Rocha, as well as her community of friends and collaborators. Therefore, the Simone Rocha x H&M story is brought to life by the people who surround and inspire her. To name a few: stylist, collaborator and close friend Robbie Spencer, model and friend Tess McMillan, sisters Adwoa and Kesewa Aboah, activist and artist — and acclaimed actress Daisy Edgar-Jones.

«Any time that I’m on set with Simone, or behind the scenes at a show, you just feel this certain warmth — there’s never any stress, and you can tell that she fills her work space with people who really inspire her in her everyday life, and that’s what brings this certain sense of community, and certain sense of ease. I always just feel so comfortable, because you are surrounded by people who are just really fun to be around. I have worked with her for four seasons now, and every time I’m just so excited to see everyone — to see the designers, the stylist, all the people who help me get dressed, it’s the same faces. It’s a really, really amazing community, truly. And I always look forward to laughing and catching up,» says McMillan.

The Simone Rocha x H&M collection launches 11 March.
I love the campaign… reminds me so much of a Jo Malone ad. To see me wearing Simone Rocha, have a look here.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © H&M

Founded in the city of Reggio Emilia in 1951, Max Mara represents the «epitome of Italian quality and craftsmanship.» The brand is adored for its coats and modern, sophisticated approach to wardrobe classics that transcend seasons and trends. Beautiful fabrics define each collection.

My personal hero piece: Teddy Bear Icon camel hair and silk-blend coat by Max Mara

An ode to extravagance in both form and fabric, the Teddy Bear coat shot to icon status on its debut in 2013. An «It Coat» from conception, the cocoon-like oversized cut and plush faux fur of camel hair on silk make it a must-have for women worldwide; Heidi Klum, Karlie Kloss and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley a among them.

Julia Roberts’ favorite: Teddy Bear Icon Short alpaca, wool and silk-blend coat by Max Mara

Teddy Bear Icon wool, alpaca and silk-blend coat by Max Mara

Teddy coats can be seen everywhere, but I do love an original. The Max Mara teddy coat is a true classic, an iconic investment piece. Try it on and you will be instantly transported back to your bed. They are the coolest, coziest and warmest outerwear you can dream of. You won’t want to take them off and let’s face it, they look so damn good you don’t even need to worry about what’s underneath them.

LoL, Sandra

On the F/W 2020 runway: Teddy Bear Icon hooded alpaca and wool-blend coat by Max Mara

Photos: Courtesy of Max Mara
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Last week, I spend a beautiful day with Prada in Milano during fashion week. The Italian fashion house treated me to many exciting moments. It was definitely the most anticipated show for S/S 2021. Miuccia Prada has teamed up with Raf Simons. Two exceptional talents working together to debut their first collection together meant for me, I was taking part in fashion history.

The show took place virtually in a yellow (one of Raf’s favorite colors) curtained backdrop one day before at the Fondazione Prada. TV screens were hanging from above, filming the whole thing and presenting the names of each model, all of whom had never walked a fashion show before. Everything new at Prada. Or probably not. After the show, Miuccia and Raf sat down to answer questions that fans submitted beforehand. Raf talked about the «Prada-ness», which is for him «a community that has a very specific attitude, intellect, aesthetic. You can’t really answer what it is, but it is, it exists, it’s present, it’s clearly there.»

Asked about the idea of newness in fashion, Raf Simons stated: «When you work for a long time in the industry, it is important that you are able to refresh your own body of work. I personally feel that the pure definition of new is something we have never seen before.» Miuccia jumped in: «It is nearly impossible. Our presence is done with our past. New, new, new means an incredible revolution, for instant the mini skirt when there was the women’s liberation. You just don’t wake up in the morning and design, you need to do something that makes sense and it comes from society. You have to react to reality and what is happening.»

My favorite 10 looks from the Prada S/S 2021 runway

When I watched the show in the live stream, I was not immediately blown away. Personally speaking, being a huge Prada fan since almost 30 years, many collections had to grown on me. Once you explore the details, the meaning, the hidden intellect, you have to fall in love. I loved this season’s idea to fully explore the collection with time in a private atmosphere in the show space itself. The music from the presentation was playing in the background and transformed me immediately in what I had seen the day before. 40 looks, building the new Prada uniform.

The new Prada S/S 2021 uniform: swinging skirts and hoodies in jersey

«The thing I have talked most about with Miuccia through all these months was uniforms. Not uniforms how as how we literally perceive them—not an army uniform, police uniform—but true metaphorical ones,» Raf stated after the show.
Miuccia, who has always been famous for her «Prada uniform», went on: «I think what we want to say about uniforms is that it’s interesting if you know that you can find something from which you know that you feel good in and you know that you express what you want to express without it being too much of a very specific fashion item in whatever moment in time. A uniform needs to also express something that is more timeless.»

Amazing details: Prada S/S 2021

For their collaboration, both designers referenced their past through the eyes of the other. «How Miuccia dresses is very often a kind of uniform one way or another, and that was direct inspiration for me for the show,» Simons said in the interview.

However, the show began with this sort of new Prada uniform, very inspired by Simons’ style. Long, narrow, ’90s-style pants combined with sleeveless tunics. All were combined with capes that were held by the models, a gesture that is reminiscent of Miuccia. Speaking of newness, the capes, or «clutch coats» as you may call them, felt so new, so modern to me, especially the way they were structured. I could picture myself wearing them for a night at the opera or throwing them over a bikini at the pool. Absolutely fabulous! Most importantly, the collaborators both love statement outerwear, and the oversized coats will surely be among the bestsellers.

The «ugly prints» of Prada’s era-defining S/S 1996 show appeared on hoodies and matching full skirts. This is definitely for me the new uniform, inspired by the current pandemic. When we want to be comfortable and stylish at once.

As Simons and Prada are both art lovers, they teamed up with Peter Potter to create artwork for the show.

The famous triangle logo appeared supersized, made from petal-folded fabric and imprinted with the logo. So breathtaking when you see it from close.

The pointy-toed slingback kitten heels in a contrasting color are back. Honestly, nobody does colour combinations better than Miuccia.

My favorite looks integrated holey turtlenecks that were used as layering pieces throughout so that the holes match each other. Combined with the swinging ’50s-style skirts, it will be my new Prada uniform.

The bags come with the new logo and are extremely light, nylon backpacks were presented as well. The mini-logo triangle earrings will also surely be spotted among influencers around the globe.

New era, new faces, new Prada. I was raving about the collection during lunch with Ignazio Gomez and Marco Pruneri at Torre restaurant inside the Fondazione Prada.

After that, I was driven to the PRADA Store in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II the to discover the «100 covers, 100 people, 100 stories» which is part of the September Issue of Vogue Italia. Inside the shop, there is an interactive wall, where you could explore this amazing project in detail. Never done before, the shoot that took place in only 4 days and involved 100 people for 100 covers: from models, actresses and actors, activists, Instagram stars, writers, artists and common people. Each one of them with a story to tell was photographed in a look from Prada’s F/W 2020 collection.

After that, we went to Pasticceria Marchesi next door, which is one of the oldest and most famous pastry shops in Milan, and that belongs to the Prada Group. In keeping with its history and tradition, the interior design is divine and already worth the visit, not to speak of all those yummy treats you can indulge in.

A beautiful day, exploring the new Prada, that I will always remember! Thank you!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada and © Sandra Bauknecht