Sandra‘s Closet

Today, I received the breaking news that Raf Simons will join Prada starting April 2, 2020. Rumors had been out since quite some time and now it is official. The Belgium designer will join the Italian fashion house as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada with equal responsibilities for creative input and decision-making. Their first runway presentation together will be for S/S 2021 in September 2020. «It’s a new wind,» said Miuccia Prada and I have to admit that I agree with Tim Blanks who wrote: «I cannot think of anything like this in the history of fashion.»

In 1978, Miuccia Prada inherited the label that was known for luggage making and transformed it into a global fashion brand with her creative designs. Prada has been a true trendsetter for decades, sometimes too fast thinking for the fashion world, she is often a few steps ahead of the game. Her iconic black nylon backpack launched in 1985 caused a real fashion frenzy and has been popular since then. In 1989 she added ready-to-wear to the offerings. Simons, who will continue to design his namesake menswear label, is the first designer from outside the Prada family to join the house since its inception.

Trendsetting: Prada S/S 2012 ad campaign photographed by Steven Meisel

Today at the Prada press conference, Simons announced: “Prada is a brand that I have been interested in my whole life. I cannot wait to express to all of you the dialogue I will have with Mrs Prada and her team. To be really honest, Mr Bertelli approached me right after my exit from Calvin Klein. Miuccia and I had a conversation about creativity in today’s fashion system. And it brought me to open dialogue with many designers, not just Mrs Prada. We have to re-look at how creativity can evolve in today’s fashion system.»

Power couple: Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada

Simons, who had worked with Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli before, when he was hired as creative director of Jil Sander in 2005. Prada had bought the German label and was looking for someone to fill the shoes of the namesake designer at that time. Simons’ seven-year tenure at the brand was an absolute success, and the Prada Group sold it to a London private equity firm in 2006.
Simons later worked at Dior and his latest venture was at Calvin Klein, where he was chief creative officer, and abruptly excited in December 2018.

Presented in Milan last Thursday: Miuccia Prada’s last single show for F/W 2020

Miuccia Prada has still a very strong view on fashion. Yet, it seems hard for her at the moment to translate this into sales. Rumors had been that the family is planning to sell to one of the big conglomerates. With the appointment of Simons, it seems that the Prada family will keep it a family business that also owns Miu Miu and Church’s.

Good luck, Raf!

They will have all my support – I have been collecting Prada pieces since a very young age and have always been very fond of the brand. Good luck to Raf, I am really excited to see what the two creative masterminds will come up with…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada and © Sandra Bauknecht

This morning, the JIL SANDER Group has announced the departure of Jil Sander (69), who has been the company’s overall Creative Director. The German designer returned to the house in February 2012 after eight years away, replacing Raf Simons as he departed for Christian Dior.

The German designer founded her eponymous brand in 1973, having opened her first boutique in Hamburg in 1968. In 2000, the designer sold the majority of her label to Prada, and was planning to work alongside the new management. One year later, she resigned already from her position as chairwoman, and shortly after as chief designer. Her decision was taken after a reported ongoing conflict with Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli, who is Miuccia Prada‘s husband.

Jil Sander’s decision is motivated by personal reasons. The partnership will end with the S/S 2014 collection (see photos in collage). The development of the next season will be assured by internal design teams, formed and trained during Sander’s tenure.

Probably she is up for a job interview at Vuitton…:-).

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Style.com

LUNA ROSSA, Prada’s newest men’s fragrance, seeks inspiration from the Italian house’s sailboat of the eponymous name which regularly participates in the prestigious America’s Cup (For more information on the famous competition, scroll to the end of this post please).

The scent and ingredients blended by Daniela Andrier, Prada Luna Rossa is a masculine fragrance without compromise that reinterprets traditional ingredients with agility.

A wave of aromatic freshness crashes through the scent conveying strength and dynamic energy, while its signature is noble and sensual.The backbone of the fragrance is lavender – an unmistakable natural ingredient in perfumery – but here pushed to the edge in a unique modern interpretation. Even the Prada Luna Rossa fragrance bottle is inspired by the technological excellence and sleek, dynamic beauty of extreme sailing boats. The power of the elements is reflected in the materials and design, which project both strength and sophistication.

Top Notes: Lavender Absolute and Bitter Orange
Middle Notes: Clary Sage and Spearmint Nanah
Base Notes: Ambroxan and Ambrette Absolute

Prada Luna Rossa for Men EdT 50ml (CHF 87.-) / EdT 100ml (CHF 117.-)
Aftershave Lotion 125ml (CHF 85.-)
Shower Gel 200ml CHF 50.-)
Deodorant 150ml (CHF 45.-)

Available September 2012.

The Luna Rossa Story

The America’s Cup is the most coveted and elusive prize in sport and the apex of the sailing world. It is an intense competition propelled by an almost mythological history, the obsession and dedication of its participants and thrilling advances in design and engineering. It is a race fought along lines of technology and athleticism, but fundamentally bound by the forces of nature; enjoyed the world over both for the visceral excitement of the competition and the grace of the boats as they cut through the waves.

The Luna Rossa sailing team emerged from the shared determination and grand ambition of two men. Patrizio Bertelli, CEO of Prada and German Frers, one of the world’s foremost yacht designers, met in 1997 to discuss a cruising boat and the designer made a provocative jibe – “why not the America’s Cup?”. There was no turning back. In order to meet strict entry deadlines Bertelli organized a crew from scratch in a record time of just two weeks – a process usually taking many months. Since then, the Luna Rossa team is one of the most renowned and beloved competitors of the America’s Cup – the oldest and most prestigious trophy in sport.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada, © Carlo Borlenghi

It is Milan Fashion Week but the buzz is all about something else. As you know, I am in Florence with Gucci at the moment and during the day all those twitter messages came in that Raf Simons, Creative Director of Jil Sander since 2005, has confirmed he will be stepping down following the F/W 2012 show this Saturday. This is breaking fashion news!

Rumours are out and huge that the avant-garde Belgian designer will take over Dior succeeding Galliano who left last year after his anti-Semitic comments. Looking closely at Raf’s S/S 2012 collection for Jil Sander, you could totally see some Dior references (see above), so let’s see if the speculations are true or not… At the moment, Dior collections are created under the supervision of Bill Gaytten, Galliano’s former studio head.

But it gets better: It is looking more and more like Jil Sander, herself at age 68, will return to the eponymous label that she founded in 1968. All good things go in threes: The German designer, who sold in 1999 75 percent of her company to the Prada Group, left the label in 2000 after a falling out with the owner, Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli. Later, following a brief return in 2003, she departed again and began working on other projects, such as the very popular high street collaboration with Uniqlo. If she comes back now, it will hopefully be for good!

This will be a very interesting week…

LoL, Sandra