Sandra‘s Closet

This week, I strolled through Perfumery Osswald in Zurich and explored some of their gourmand fragrances. In the end, some of my old gourmand favorites as well as some new treasures landed in my basket. Their dessert-like qualities and embracing aldehyde accords that tickle our taste buds as well as our nose are enough to make one salivate! Enjoy those beautiful scents below – I wish you could smell them while scrolling:

Kilian
ROLLING IN LOVE

This musc de peau is capturing the sensation of feeling so high on love that it seems to almost «get under the skin.» Working with perfumer Pascal Gaurin, Kilian Hennessy took an entirely new direction. Rolling in Love is more direct and less faceted than his previous fragrances – almost «monochromatic» in its focused representation of a single emotion. Rolling in Love is a «white» scent, layering different textures along the scent’s trail with notes of ambrette seeds, almond milk, iris, and musk.

Top notes: almond milk, ambrette seeds
Heart notes: iris, freesia
Base notes: musk, vanilla, tonka bean

50ml Eau de Parfum for CHF 259.00

Pierre Guillaume Paris
5.1 SUEDE OSMANTHE

Osmanthus is a most bewitching flower, its elegant petals often scenting the rice fields of China with their potently smoky, fruity fragrance. In Suede Osmanthe, the delicate flower’s seductive contrasts are deconstructed and magnified to gorgeous effect. A precious suede, a thin and delicate skin, infused with apricot and black tea notes, olfactive illusion of an osmanthus, conspicuous by its absence.

Top notes: aldehydes, orange blossom absolute, apricot
Heart notes: leather notes of Suederal, black tea notes, osmanthus
Base notes: Moroccan cedar wood, cashmeran, honey sweet musk, myrrh

100ml Eau de Parfum for CHF 188.00

Tiziana Terenzi
KIRKÈ

This chypre fruity fragrance for women and men was launched in 2015 and an immediate success. It is inspired by the Goddess Circe’s famous enchanted potions – nectareous and mysterious and infused with a lush bouquet of sweet fruit including passion fruit, raspberries and pears. Kirkè’s juicy scent is warmed by the sweet, indulgent heliotrope flower and a sensual base of musk.

Top notes: passion fruit, peach, raspberry, cassis, pear, warm sand
Heart notes: lily-of-the-valley
Base notes: heliotrope, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, musk

100ml Extrait de Parfum for CHF 218.00

PROFVMVM ROMA
ACQVA E ZVCCHERO

Like waking up from a dream of eating something delicious with the taste still lingering on your tongue – sweet, elusive and ambrosial. As airy as a meringue, as fragile as first love, this feels like honey melting in your mouth, enveloped by tender relaxation.

Top notes: wild berries
Heart notes: orange blossom
Base notes: vanilla

100ml Perfume for CHF 280.00

Montale
VANILLA CAKE

A gourmet and bewitching fragrance, subtly mixing milk, grilled almond, warm caramel and vanilla from Madagascar. A real yoghurt cake just out of the oven with a delicious meringue sillage, reminiscent of your childhood days when your mum prepared a cake for you.

Top notes: almond powder, butter cream
Heart notes: milky mousse, caramel, yoghourt cake
Base notes: baiser, vanilla

100ml Eau de Parfum for CHF 119.60

In Switzerland, all these fragrances are available at Perfumery Osswald.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

We can say with clear conscience that Perfumery Osswald is one of Zurich’s most traditional and iconic places to shop beauty must-haves. Opened in 1921 at Kreuzplatz by pharmacist Boris Dreiding, it was the place to get products from major brands such as Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein or Guerlain from the beginning. Dreiding also had the formula for Chanel N°5 that he produced for the Swiss market at that time.

The Dreiding family: Boris, Jago, Tamara and Tanja

After the Second World War, his son Jago Dreiding took over the business and moved the location to Bahnhofstrasse 17, where it is still based today. In 1980, he founded the «Salon de Beauté», the beauty spa, in the basement and successfully directed the perfumery Osswald until 1992. Thereafter, his widow Tamara Dreiding continued the business, until her daughter Tanja Dreiding Wallace took over the helmet in 2014. In 2012, the dynamic brunette had already opened the first international branch in New York’s Soho district (for a previous post, click here please). Being based in the US, she talks and e-mails daily with her team in Zurich and flies back to Switzerland at least once every second month.

Tanja Dreiding Wallace with me yesterday in the newly renovated store.

When in the beginning of 2018, the opportunity came up to rent more space in the back of the building, managing director Tanja Dreiding Wallace did not hesitate to give the iconic place a makeover and to enlarge the retails space.

«Today, our customers want more than just shopping. They want you to have an exceptional experience and a perfect 360-degree service to be offered. Thanks to the renovation and expansion of our business premises, we can now fully respond to these wishes.»
– Tanja Dreiding Wallace, CEO Perfumery Osswald

The world’s first La Prairie Lounge in the new design of the brand.

The idea for the interior design came up with the decision to integrate the world’s first and extremely exclusive La Prairie Lounge in the new design of the luxury brand. The premises are designed in warm natural colors and earthy tones, creating a homely yet elegant ambience. The carefully curated offer of selected niche fragrances, makeup products, luxury toiletries and accessories got more space are presented in a sophisticated way inviting customers to stroll through the corridors.

When you enter the store, new launches will be presented on round tables.

 Bahnhofstrasse 17, 8001 Zurich
Phone: +41 44 211 20 30
www.osswald.ch

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Osswald and © Sandra Bauknecht

Lately, I was invited by Perfumery Osswald in Zurich and had the amazing honor to have dinner with Frédéric Malle, a very captivating and inspirational gentleman, a father of four, and the man behind the niche fragrance house Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. Born in 1962, he grew up immersed in the world of perfumery (his grandfather Serge Heftler-Louiche founded Christian Dior Perfumes, and Frédéric’s mother later worked as an Art Director for the same perfume house) and has a deep knowledge of raw materials, fragrance structure and accords that he shared with me that night. His ‘Editions’ collection includes scents by distinguished noses including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Pierre Bourdon.

With Frédéric Malle at dinner at the Widder hotel.

Malle studied art history and economics at New York University. In 1988, he began his career at Roure Bertrand Dupont, the prestigious perfume laboratory. After working in the industry for more than 12 years, Frederic was ready to embark on a new adventure.

4 of his first launched perfumes in 2000: Lipstick Rose (Ralf Schwieger), Musc Ravager (Maurice Roucel), En Passant (Olivia Giacobetti) and Une Fleur de Cassie (Dominique Ropion).

In 2000, using his connections and experience in the industry, Frédéric invited nine top perfumers to design their own original perfumes with no restrictions, not even financially regarding their ingredients they chose. Thanks to Frédéric Malle, the return to luxury perfumery took place at the beginning of our century. In an era in which most companies put more importance on brand names, Malle brought the attention back to the product itself: perfume.

Until today, through a simple “back to basics” approach, Editions de Parfums is challenging all prevailing trends. Frédéric Malle’s contribution to the creation of the different fragrances sold under Editions de Parfums varies depending on the perfumers’ desire. Perfumers appeal to him to assess their work in progress and to share ideas.

These fragrances are packaged in bottles that feature the name of the perfumer—a first in the industry, where the perfumer is traditionally behind the scenes and credit for the scent is given to the fashion house or celebrity on the bottle. While we were talking during dinner, I could sense that Frédéric Malle is very fond of Dominique Ropion‘s work. The two of them seem to build an amazing team.

The development of a signature scent is a lengthy process, generally lasting between 6 and 18 months. Each fragrance starts with an idea, an “olfactive sketch,” which can either take the form of a material base – the mix of two or three raw materials, like colors in an abstract painting – or of an initial feeling, the desire to translate or convey a specific emotion. From there, the perfumers gradually build a full-scale composition, tinkering and problem-solving until a perfect balance is achieved. The challenge is to polish and perfect without losing the impact and personality of the original idea.

“Eliminate all that is superfluous or merely decorative” – this, Frédéric Malle’s credo, is the only rule imposed on the house perfumers. Malle requests that each fragrance be designed to uniquely merge with the wearer’s skin rather than to just be a “pretty scent.”

Designer Frédéric Malle has more than 25 perfumes available at the moment, made in collaboration with perfumers Jean-Claude Ellena, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Bruno Jovanovic, Carlos Benaim, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Bourdon, Edmond Roudnitska, Ralf Schwieger, Edouard Flechier, Michel Roudnitska and Sophia Grojsman.

New investments under the new helmet: Frédéric Malle’s London store at 14, Burlington Arcade.

Two years ago, The Estée Lauder Companies acquired Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.

Frédéric Malle said about his decision to sell part of his company: “The Estée Lauder Companies has great respect for the art of perfumery and for the creativity, dedication and mastery required to create truly exceptional fragrance experiences. The company’s commitment to a high standard of excellence and ability to support the growth of entrepreneurial concepts in a way that preserves all that is unique and special makes The Estée Lauder Companies the ideal partner for us.”

A truly inspirational creator and a real business man!

TO SHOP FREDERIC MALLE ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
In Switzerland a large selection is available at Perfumery Osswald in Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Frédéric Malle and © Sandra Bauknecht, via Mr Porter