Sandra‘s Closet

Personally speaking, it was THE show of Paris Fashion Week that I have been eagerly waiting for: Gabriela Hearst’s first collection for Chloé.

Hearst called her first collection for the French Maison the «Aphrodite» to her own brand’s «Athena». Chloé in Greek means «blooming». The question is if it is a new bloom for the Maison with Hearst at the helm. It definitely is in terms of sustainability and this key word was Hearst’s approach to Chloé’s F/W 2021 collection: sustainability was her inspiration, her technique, her fabrics and even her volumes.

The Uruguayan-American designer claimed in the press release that Chloé’s F/W 2021 collection could be considered «four times more sustainable compared to last year,» and she explained that she got there by «eliminating virgin synthetic fiber (polyester) or artificial cellulosic fiber (viscose) and sourcing recycled, reused and organic denim,» adding that «more than 50% of the silk comes from organic agriculture and more than 80% of cashmere yarn for knitwear is recycled.»

This earthy point of view is also something Hearst is known for at her own eponymous brand. For me, I had to look at the collection many times until it has started to warm up to me. You have to understand it to like it as there is not something really excitingly new for the eye, but for your consciousness. I can see the DNA of both brands. However, it is missing this romantic, bohemian playfulness I have always loved at Chloé, even that Hearst only sent dresses down the digital runway.

Gabriela Hearst presented the last look herself.

My favorite item was the coat Gabriela wore for the finale of the show, along with the eco-leather dresses and the printed puffer coats. Hearst created them by repurposing from Chloé overstock spanning designers and eras, with Sheltersuit, a nonprofit organization providing aid to the homeless, which also collaborated on a series of backpacks. The marble prints on blouses and dresses had been created by the artist Peter Miles using seaweed and eggs.

The show was presented digitally last week on March 3rd, one hundred years to the day of founder Gaby Aghion’s birth. Both Gaby and Gabi, as is Hearst’s nickname too, are two strong fashion designers that interpret femininity in their own independent way and respective generations. It is surely a very viable wardrobe with lots of investment pieces to last for a very long time. As Hearst noted to Gaby in a statement, «your House is in good hands» – I would sign that! At least she made me start to re-think the state of fashion today.

LoL, Sandra

The rebirth of Chloé’s Edith bag by Gabriela Hearst.

Photos: © Chloé

BIRKENSTOCK, the cult German footwear company and the iconic New York fashion brand, Proenza Schouler, have teamed up to launch a unisex collaboration. Inspired by the BIRKENSTOCK core ingredients of quality and function, Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez add their uniquely New York point of view to two iconic Birkenstock styles – the Arizona and Milano.

Birkenstock x Proenza Schouler – Arizona

The shoes feature Velcro closures in place of hardware buckles and are finished with industrial contrast topstitching to further refine the classic sandals while maintaining their traditional form and functionality. The collaboration features a timeless palette of black, white, ochre, and silver, and is rendered in polished, specchio calf leather derived from past and present Proenza Schouler collections.

Proenza Schouler S/S 2020 runway

For this special partnership, BIRKENSTOCK and Proenza Schouler have enlisted Juergen Teller and Peter Miles as creative collaborators. For the launch, a 3-dimensional visual concept were designed that embodies both the artistic approach of the designers’ process as well as the timelessness and elevated craftmanship of the BIRKENSTOCK manufacturing heritage.

Birkenstock x Proenza Schouler – Milano

«We are excited to be partnering with BIRKENSTOCK as we have been longtime admirers and devotees of the brand. We are also thrilled to be working on this exciting venture alongside Juergen and Peter. BIRKENSTOCK and Proenza Schouler both share a common respect and admiration for the craftsmanship and detailed work that goes into all of our products, and we are excited to celebrate these all-important qualities in our collaboration.» – Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Designers and Founders, Proenza Schouler.

TO SHOP BIRKENSTOCK PROENZA SCHOULER, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Top Image: Photography Juergen Teller – Art direction Peter Miles; via Net-à-Porter
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