Portrait of a Lady

Recently I got a wonderful surprise and received a bottle of «Portrait of a Lady», which is an icon of haute perfumery. The scent is a new breed of oriental rose, a baroque perfume. It is based on an accord of benzoin, cinnamon, sandalwood and, above all patchouli, musk and frankincense. It takes off with an excessive dosage of the best Turkish rose essence that Dominique Ropion linked to the rest of the formula, thanks to a red berries and spice accord.

Hundreds of trials were needed to balance such an excessive formula. Portrait of a Lady is undoubtedly the perfume containing the strongest dosage of rose essence and patchouli heart. It’s a rare symphonic perfume appeared: a new amber rose, a sensuous beauty that attracts people like a magnet, a modern classic: Portrait of a Lady. It is an olfactory masterpiece of pure elegance, baroque opulence, and splendor that people will ask you about.

Top note: Rose
Middle notes: Blackcurrant, raspberry, clove
Base notes: Patchouli, sandalwood, frankincense

Dominique Ropion trained at the legendary Roure Bertrand Dupont laboratory before going to work with Jean-Louis Sieuzac, one of the perfumery world’s great technicians. Today he’s a star perfumer at IFF. He is the nose behind bestellers such as Alien (2005 Thierry Mugler) and Lady Million (2010 Paco Rabanne) An adventurer who abandons himself to instinct, Ropion is on a quest to create new, harmonious accords by pairing ingredients which are extreme opposites. His work is special because of the tension between precision and freedom.

TO SHOP PORTRAIT OF A LADY, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Frederic Malle
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Which Rose Are You?

Rose scents are trending at the moment. According to Frédéric Malle, «Roses is to perfumery what the nude is to drawing». Whether pure, futuristic, sophisticated or even synthetic: each perfumer has his, or her, own interpretation of this flower, perfumery’s most conceptual theme. This is the opportunity for Frédéric Malle to showcase the wealth of styles of the artists he publishes and to propose 4 roses with strong personalities:

ROSE TONNERRE: The Darkest of Roses

Iconic and cult, Une Rose has joined the great classics of the Éditions de Parfums. Today, the Maison signs a grand premiere in the world of perfumery: Une Rose is changing to become Rose Tonnerre and continues its worldwide success story and the conquest of the Asian continent. A new name, carefully chosen, for a formula that remains precisely the same and reflects the strength of this earthy and truly unique rose.

Frédéric Malle‘s beloved classic, Rose Tonnerre is part of an exotic garden of exquisite rose scents at night: in the foreground, intoxicating, sparkling, sweet and fresh all at once, it reveals deep and warm facets. Dark and enigmatic, subtly gothic.

Within the context of this personal work, Édouard Fléchier showed Frédéric Malle a new base, a kind of olfactive sketch, reproducing the smell of a «Perigord’s truffle». This assemblage of dark notes, for the most part woody and animal, was destined to masculine perfumery, but the two friends had the idea – a priori paradoxical- to marry it to the feminine scent par excellence: the rose.
The idea was to take advantage of the semi earthly, semi animal truffle’s aspect to reinforce the «garden» side of the flower, and by doing that creating a link between the petal and the skin scent. All in all, this composition obeys to the precept that a flower alone is only a scent and that a perfume should emanates from the person who wears it.
Taking advantage of the release of an Absolue Rose Turque by molecular distillation, stemming from the laboratories Manes research, Edouard Fléchier created his perfume with a great amount of this unique raw material which he matched, with his usual virtuosity, to this unexpected bottom note. He had then to find the ideal concentration and, faithful to the compromising spirit which governs the Éditions de Parfums, the two friends did not hesitate to fix this last one on 25% weight/vol, in order to show this magisterial composition’s worth.

In the hands of the master perfumer, the classic rose aroma becomes dark and sensual.

PORTRAIT OF A LADY: Rose Overdose

Once upon a time was a woman. Inimitable. Portrait of a Lady.

The original sketch was ambitious: to reinvent the genus of amber perfume. From the heart of a flamboyant masculine perfume, Géranium pour Monsieur, is extracted the basis of a sumptuous feminine perfume, like a flash of heat across the skin.

In the foreground, Dominique Ropion proposes an orgy that defies the limits of reasonableness, daring excess and covering the formula of opulence with an indecent and endless number of petals of Turkish rosesabout 10%, the equivalent of 400 flowers per bottle of 100 ml.
The most classic of ingredients, which, in such proportions suddenly takes on unimaginable dimension, strength and character. Striking in its abundance of roses, the fragrance expresses its dramatic power through the contrasts of incense and sandalwood. A clove, blackcurrant and raspberry accord binds the whole together to give this great perfume its final touch. It took Dominique Ropion and Frédéric Malle months to create this fragrance. Months of sketches to finally compose this Portrait.

Mystery and refinement, Portrait of a Lady is an ode, a song to universal beauty, the one shared indistinctly by all women and in which each expresses her own ideal.

ROSE & CUIR: The Chimera Rose

The calm before the storm. Inspired by the storied Mistral wind that blows through the South of France and embodies the irresistible elegance of a silent storm, Jean-Claude Ellena signs with Rose & Cuir a purified perfume to the extreme, built around very selected ingredients.

The fragrance opens with a crystalline rose: pure, streamlined, modern and uncompromisingly.
A brilliant blackcurrant, followed by Timut Pepper and Geranium Bourbon extractions, creates the illusion. The airy and solar first feeling gradually reveals a leather in its raw state, both elegant and mysterious.

This base is built around IsoButyl Quinoline, a forgotten molecule discovered at the turn of the 20th century and then popularized by the very daring perfumery of the 1950s.

This nearly whisper, takes on a new, more assertive tone, that of a tumultuous but disarmingly sober drama.


LIPSTICK ROSE: The Glamourous & Pop Art Rose

Lipstick Rose expresses an exacerbated vision of femininity. That lipstick’s smell reminds the intimate moment when a star, in the hushed comfort of her dressing room, slides her stick over her upper lip.

Grapefruit and violet enhance the fragrance’s rose note, while iris, raspberry and rose combine with vanilla and white musk to create a glamorized femininity in technicolor.

Ralf Schwieger, a young perfumer whose architectural writing and desire to create extraordinary products have seduced Frédéric Malle, has composed a fragrance that is somewhere between Hollywood Glamour and Pop Art. My favorite!

TO SHOP Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
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LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.

20 Year Anniversary Limited Editions

To mark the brand’s twentieth anniversary, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle celebrates the thirty-two perfumes created so far by looking back to the year of their creation and offering a number of limited editions.

Seven of the most popular perfumes, Bigarade Concentrée, Vétiver Extraordinaire, French Lover, L’Eau d’Hiver, Musc Ravageur, Carnal Flower and Portrait of a Lady, are presented for this special occasion in 100ml featuring a red bakelite cap – the brand’s signature color. The packaging and the bottles are elegantly clad in a frieze designed by Patrick Li, creative director of The New York Times’ T Magazine, that tells the story of twenty years of creation.

Bigarade Concentrée – € 215 (100ml)
French Lover – € 215 (100ml)
L’Eau d’Hiver – € 185 (100ml)
Vetiver Extraordinaire – €245 (100ml)
Musc Ravageur – € 215 (100ml)
Carnal Flower – € 285 (100ml)
Portrait of a Lady – € 285 (100ml)

The same imagery adorns two travel sets featuring a selection of three perfumes for him or her, offering a dream opportunity to enhance your getaways or widen your olfactive horizons. And finally, a twenty-year limited-edition discovery coffret allows you to treat yourself, or a fellow perfume lover, to the joy of discovering twelve emblematic masterpieces from the collection.

Discovery Set – €45 (12 x 1.2ml)
20Y Men Set – € 170 (3 x 10ml)
20Y Women Set – € 195 (3 x 10ml)

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

20 Years of Creative Freedom

Let’s celebrate the 20 year anniversary of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. Born in the year 2000, as the result of Frédéric Malle’s mission to restore the dignity of haute parfumerie. A desire to return to the fundamentals of the craft: its authors, the perfumers, their expertise, exceptional ingredients, and an artistic approach to perfumery. Born into the world of perfume (his grandfather was the founder of Parfums Christian Dior) and with more than thirty years of experience behind him, Frédéric Malle is the world’s greatest perfumery expert. The greatest perfumers in the world have placed their confidence in him, joining forces with him in this venture, delighted at the opportunity to exercise total creative freedom, and to be able to sign their work with their own name. No marketing brief. The freedom to compose: no restriction on either quantity or quality of ingredients. Freedom from time constraints: no schedule; all that counts is the excellence of the result.

Why «Editions de Parfums»? Because Frédéric Malle works with perfumers the same way a literary editor works with his authors. Since they speak the same language and share technical expertise, Frédéric Malle is able to push perfumers to give their very best. They interact on a technical and an artistic level—no brief, no images, no following trends or targeting consumers.

Frédéric Malle’s design for the bottles.

Once finished, the perfumes are presented in a neutral flask, in elegant packaging reminiscent of the book covers of Gallimard—the most celebrated French publishing house—bearing evocative names such as Portrait of a Lady, Carnal Flower, Musc Ravageur, En Passant, Vétiver Extraordinaire, French Lover, Dans Tes Bras…. All signed by the greatest perfumers in the profession, including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena, Pierre Bourdon, Carlos Benaïm, Maurice Roucel and Edmond Roudnitska.

Frédéric Malle and his famous noses

For Frédéric Malle, perfumes are far more than a fashion accessory or a way to promote a brand image. Beyond ensuring the excellence of every juice, his ambition is to enable everyone to find the perfume or perfumes that perfectly suit their personality. To aid in this discovery, the advisors who staff the boutiques are Perfume Experts, qualified to give personalized consultations. Their goal is to help customers find the perfume in the collection that suits them best. Because these perfumes are all different, each one unique, they offer the greatest freedom of choice and expression for everyone, depending on their current desires, the season, their way of life, or even their next rendezvous. An invisible but powerful way to express one’s style and singularity.

Inside Frédéric Malle’s first boutique at 37 rue de Grenelle in Paris.

On June 6, 2000, Frédéric Malle opened his first Paris boutique at 37 rue de Grenelle. At a time when the self-service sale of perfumes was on the rise, Malle chose to open a boutique that would provide a luxurious setting for the perfumes he «publishes,» and to make sure to offer each visitor a personal experience. This pioneering boutique, conceived by architect Andrée Putman and Frédéric Malle, is a hybrid space combining the aesthetics and intimate comfort of a Parisian interior with the expertise of a perfume laboratory.

«Smelling columns» 

The boutiques of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, each with its own distinctive architecture, offer a series of interpretations of this overarching idea—at once a welcoming apartment and a perfume laboratory, where you will find the same iconic features of the house: portraits of perfumers in the style of the photos of authors found in bookstores, refrigerated cabinets in which the flasks of perfumes are kept at just the right temperature (as in a laboratory), consultation spaces, and the famous and unique «smelling columns.» A patented design by Frédéric Malle himself, the smelling columns are like olfactive mirrors, allowing one to experience the complete tableau of a perfume, its entire sillage. Each in their own way, the boutiques express their founder’s quest for aesthetics, functionality, and an avant-garde approach.
As a designer, renowned expert, and art lover, Frédéric Malle heads up the design of each boutique personally, working with carefully chosen architects.

Jakob + MacFarlane and Frédéric Malle joined forces to defy the laws of nature with a sea of floating islands, suspended in time and space inside their Paris store, 13 Rue des Francs Bourgeois.

2020 marks a historic date for the house: Twenty years of audacity and creativity. Twenty years of shifting paradigms in the exacting world of perfumery. From today, and for the rest of the year, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle will share a series of events to celebrate this anniversary.

This week marks a new step for the house with the opening of its first boutique in China, at Shanghai’s luxurious IFC Mall, as well as a counter to open soon afterwards at SKP in Beijing. These two sales outlets see the debut of a new concept, with resolutely modern architecture, redesigned «smelling columns» with enhanced functionality, and an interactive tool to help customers select their perfume. EDPFM’s powerful fusion of ideas brought together in a new experiential space, to be rolled out internationally over the coming months.

Special Instagram Live streams will take place @fredericmalle, a window into the artistic, cinematic, and cultural influences of the founder. The perfumers of Editions de Parfums will be honored and will freely share their knowledge and their thoughts in live conversations. From September, you can also flick through the Editions online, with the launch of its new digital magazine.

Returning from the summer vacation, the house will present an entirely new Limited Edition of its iconic flasks and perfumes, restyled in anniversary colors. Seven of the most popular perfumes from the collection will be presented in new flasks, their cases elegantly clad with a frieze that tells the story of twenty years of creation.

She is languid in the bath, as on a chaise longue, as though she is taking in the sun, as though taking in Bizet, a glint with water and steam, maybe with a book in her hands, surrounded by billowing clouds of foam. Alone, of course—this is a private pleasure. She sinks into the voluptuous waters: a generous measure of rose and a mixture of amber, patchouli, and sandalwood, one might think the scent was carved in her likeness. She abandons herself to it, and it to her. She loves the intimate resonance of its perfume, dream-distilled. Perhaps it is she who is scenting the waters.

And she steps out reborn from the spume, trailing the note of this suspended moment.

The newest product you shouldn’t miss is this new addition to Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle’s bestseller created by Dominique Ropion and Frédéric Malle:

Portrait of a Lady – The Foam Bath
Available now for €110.

PORTRAIT OF A LADY
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Top Note
: Rose
Middle Notes: Blackcurrant, Raspberry, Clove
Base Notes: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Frankincense

TO SHOP LES EDITIONS de PARFUMS FREDERIC MALLE ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and Les Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
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