Sandra‘s Closet

The scent of the sun is a sensation. Soothing and strengthening, it is an extract of energy: a perfume of opportunity and enhancement.

In his first involvement in a fragrance project for Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams asked Jacques Cavallier Belletrud to capture the light which is the essence of into a highly crafted men’s fragrance for a global community collectively uplifted by the warmth that radiates from the sun.

LVERS was conceived through a creative dialogue between Pharrell Williams and Jacques Cavallier Belletrud and crafted in the Louis Vuitton creative atelier at Les Fontaines Parfumées in Grasse, France.

For this new collaborative opus, the Master Perfumer kept a cross-generational approach at heart, involving in the creative process Camille Cavallier Belletrud, perfumer at Louis Vuitton and member of the creative studio, who was trained at the Maison under the mentorship of the Master Perfumer for many years, cultivating the DNA of the house.

Founded in the Men’s Creative Director’s philosophy of sunlight as a metaphor for love and a source of life and motivation across human experiences, it echoes the question posed upon his arrival at Louis Vuitton: What will you do when the sun shines on you?

Distilled into Eau de parfum, the original idea has to take new form. «The theme of sunlight that lit up Pharrell’s debut show on Pont Neuf in June 2023 inspired us to convey photosynthesis in scent. It may sound abstract, but if you look at life, photosynthesis is the starting point for everything,» Jacques Cavallier Belletrud says.

LVERS conveys in fragrance the figurative yet familiar scent of the sun illuming the skin, energising the vitality of nature, and giving life to the organisms that surround us. With olfactive alchemy, the Master Perfumer transforms the abstract scent of sunlight into earthly matter. Observing the science of photosynthesis, the Maison’s expert identified the notes that emanate from nature as a result of the vitalising power of light: the luxuriance of leaves caressed by rays; the evaporating nectar of freshly grown grass; the warm earthiness of tree trunks expanding under the forest sun. Within the study, pure and ancient natural substances are unearthed.

Galbanum, the mythical resin of the Ferula plant rarely used in modern-day fragrances, is revitalised and refined from its wild, vegetal state. Like a diamond in the rough, the centuries-old scent is cultivated into delicate green notes, creating the sappy and spicy core of the LVERS bouquet. It is grounded in the bottom note of cedarwood. Extracted from second-hand wood from carpentry, the oil’s deep woody sensibility establishes the indefinable but recognisable olfactic sensation universally associated with the forest. Harmonised with the creaminess of sandalwood, it sets an earthy but elegant tone for the fragrance, energised by the clean crispness of ginger. The composition is raised by the fruity, zesty top notes of bergamot, gently announcing the galbanum in a figurative illustration of the early rays of sunrise. Echoing the therapeutic force of the sun, each of the LVERS ingredients is rooted in age-old cultural practices connected to notions of healing. In Ancient Greece, galbanum was employed as a curative remedy, while in Ancient Egypt, cedarwood oil was used as a means of preservation and to ward off evil spirits. In Eastern medicine, sandalwood is a key component alongside ginger, widely known for its health benefits. Across cultures, bergamot has been considered a tool for both mental and physical renewal. The healing powers traditionally linked to the ingredients infuse LVERS with a holistic air: the idea of fragrance as an elixir of well-being; a spray of sunlight distilled in a bottle.

Fashioned in the cylindrical signature silhouette of Louis Vuitton’s Les Parfums, the LVERS flacon reflects, refracts and imitates the sunlight. A prismatic finish electrifies the glass structure coloured from within by a golden jus, evoking the bright effect of sunlight gilding the skin. Introduced alongside the fragrance, a travel case and a fragrance trunk – which holds three bottles – are crafted in the green Damoflage motif. Central to the creative expression of Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton, the graphic splices the Maison’s heritage Damier pattern with camouflage, a signifier in the personal style lexicon of the Men’s Creative Director.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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«Soleil de Feu is a smoldering amber woody scent evoking sunset light. It is the most sensual expression of soleil.» – Tom Ford

Tom Ford launches Soleil De Feu as the latest addition to the Private Blend collection . It joins the family of sun-inspired fragrances, that includeSoleil Blanc (2016), Soleil Neige (2019), and Soleil Brûlant (2021).

Soleil de Feu is an amber woody scent that evokes the molten sun descending in a burnished blaze over the sea, painting the sky with fiery strokes of bronze solar light. This is the most sensual expression of the Soleil perfume. Notes of sandalwood are enhanced with tuberose and warm ambers, resulting in a seductive and sensual fragrance. Personally speaking this scent could have been crafted specifically for me. It has all some of my favorite notes with a beautiful oriental touch.

Available as Eu de Parfums 30ml, 50ml, and 250ml Decanter.
TO SHOP SOLEIL DE FEU ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Tom Ford / Sandra Bauknecht
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Rising in the East, intense sunlight infuses Sacred Wood and Rose Oud by KILIAN PARIS, two fragrance icons blended by Founder Kilian Hennessy and Perfumer Calice Becker almost ten years ago, are returning to the collection.

Sacred Wood is a homage to pure Sandalwood from Mysore, India—so rare it is now forbidden in perfumery, reserved for religious temples— while Rose Oud celebrates a firework of woods and spices around an incandescent Rose. Both creations also pay common tribute to their shared ingredient of Cedarwood, sourced from protected tree species in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, blended into a matrix of resinous notes like liquid gold. Exceptional woods like these take time to cultivate; mysterious and sanctified, they are an olfactive opening into a higher level of sensory pleasure.

Part of The Cellars olfactive family, Sacred Wood is a unisex portrait of Sandalwood, especially the most coveted variety from Mysore with its spicy, woodsy and milky facets that are simply incredible. Now prohibited, Kilian Hennessy recreates his olfactive ideal.

Sacred Wood opens with Ambrette Seed Absolute and Carrot Seed Essence for spicy and earthen elements, only to unfold into a multi-layered Sandalwood Accord with Cedarwood Oil Atlas sourced in Morocco and Amyris Oil from Dominican Republic. Copaiba Balsam Oil adds warmth with an animalic aspect of Apricot. A malted milky vapor rises like incense, for an exceptional and long-lasting sillage.

Part of The Narcotics olfactive family, Rose Oud depicts a burning blend of Roses.

Rose Oil from Bulgaria opens with a spark of Saffron and Cinnamon, while Rose Absolute spread luxuriously throughout, blending into a sweet Lychee accord. The fragrance unfolds a long-lasting dry-down based on Cedarwood Atlas Oil, that resonates with an Oud Accord built around woody and spicy Cypriol Oil from India, enriched by deep smoky notes of leather.

Two of the most coveted blends of KILIAN PARIS have made their come back. Sacred Wood and Rose Oud go higher—sourced below in the scent of wood, uplifted toward the light—both are windows into something beyond.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © KILIAN PARIS and © Sandra Bauknecht / Nadia Krawiecka
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Monday last week, I arrived in NYC to attend the launch of Gucci‘s newest fragrance GUCCI BAMBOO that took place at the Bowery hotel for two days with special events. During that time, I was able to meet and interview the face of the campaign, Israeli actress and model GAL GADOT, who is known for her role as Gisele in The Fast and the Furious film series and as Wonder Woman in the upcoming movie Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice. Stay tuned for the interview which will be coming up tomorrow. For now, let’s have a look at the new fragrance.

First of all what does Bamboo means? For Gucci, it is not so much about the plant but about the woodstock, its strength and resilience which is used for the iconic bag handles for example (If you are interested to see a tour around the manufacture in Casselina, I invite you to click here).

For the fragrance, the Italian fashion house tried to stay true to its DNA and transported the iconic leather and wood aspect to the scent. It has been a long process of almost 3 years, with lots of iterations until the final result was found.

Duality plays an important role, reflecting strength and femininity at the same time. Woody floral fragrances have been used for a long time in the Gucci perfume world but with GUCCI BAMBOO, another story has been written, something different and exotic from all the others.

The Notes

1. Casablanca Lilies from North Africa (a Headspace recreation) add a wonderful complexity as if the sun is touching the petals itself.

2. Ylang Ylang from the Comoros Islands of the East coast of Africa (natural extraction). Only the extract is used for Gucci Bamboo. The small yellow flowers are handpicked and than right afterwards put in a steamed distillation.

3. Sandalwood from Australia (a natural extraction of the bark). This is another very important signature note for Gucci as it adds the duality.

4. Tahitian Vanilla (special chosen quality). It has more dryness, a balsamic quality, very rich, not too sweet, more leathery.

5. In order to bring to life the dazzling and fresh aspect of the fragrance, Pear and Italian Bergamot were used as opening notes. This give that crunchy freshness.

The fragrance is really beautiful and it literally grows on you during the day. In the morning, you apply the freshness that transforms during the following hours in something very rich and floral and that ends with a captivating dryness.

The face, Gal Gadot, is the epitome of a modern multifaceted woman. Mother, wife and businesswoman. Warm and open. Strong and feminine, just like a bamboo.

GUCCI BAMBOO is available from July 30, 2015.
Eau de Parfum 30ml (€64.00), 50ml (€89.00) and 75ml (€114.00)

Shower Gel 200ml (€35.00), Body Lotion 200ml (€37.00) and Deodorant Natural Spray 100ml (€26.00).

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci, © Sandra Bauknecht

I am in love with Guerlain‘s new fragrance launch, Eau de Lingerie, which is, as the name brings to mind, designed for fine underwear, delicate fabrics, as well as intimate and special occasions. The Eau de Toilette is part of the exclusive collection: Les Elixirs Charnels and available now for CHF 99.- (125ml).

“Close to the skin, in the very place where fragrance settles, our lingerie lies… and this inspired Guerlain to conceive of an innovative beauty ritual. A delicate new fragrance to spray onto lingerie, creating a special moment of sensuality in which women are invited to indulge…”

The fragrance can blend with any other scent and beautifully complements lingerie of every kind, leaving a light and subtle impression. Sensual and intimate, Eau de Lingerie is composed as a floral, powdery and musky scent. It contains notes of iris, rose, vanilla, sandalwood, white musk and ambrette.

To interpret the Elixirs Charnels collection, Guerlain entrusted Absolutely Pôm to create a limited edition of five pieces of fine lingerie. Available exclusively at the most prestigious Absolutely Pôm locations (see photos above).

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Guerlain and © Sandra Bauknecht

Winter 1952. That night, just before dawn, it snowed. A boy, with his collar folded up to protect his neck, headed on his way to school. A thin white veil slipped beneath his feet and swirled around him, cloaking his mouth and the muffled words: “I’m going to be late!”

This is the start of the press release, a poetic essay about a young school boy, who fills his notebooks with drawings of flowers and dragons, who is reprimanded by his schoolteacher for taking great delight in decorating the words in his sentences with embellished capital letters (“majuscules” in French) and who is fascinated by Medieval legends. The boy, it’s Serge Lutens. And the word “Santal” on the bottle is capitalized.

Santal Majuscule is built around three ingredients, a superlatively crafted gourmand composition: Sandalwood, cocoa and Damask rose.

Another masterpiece from Serge Lutens, Santal Majuscule will be available September 2012.
50 ml, CHF 157.-

If you are interested to know more about the famous perfumer, please click here for an interview I did with him earlier this year.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Serge Lutens

Embrace the warm season with Jo Malone‘ s gorgeous new limited edition fragrance:
Plum Blossom.

Bursting with optimism, the Plum Blossom scent is an uplifting addition to the Jo Malone collection, perfect both on its own or layered preferably with Nectarine Blossom & Honey.

Opening with the fruitful freshness of yellow plum, its floral heart blooms on a background of creamy sandalwood and white musk.

Available online and in boutiques from May 2012.
Plum Blossom Cologne, CHF 130 (100ml) and CHF 68 (30ml).
In Switzerland at Jelmoli Zurich and Globus Geneva.

This scent will surely lift your mood whatever the weather.
And as it is limited, you better buy ahead!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Jo Malone

Lorenzo Villoresi

As you might already know, I love perfume, especially extraordinary fragrances.
In the beginning of September, I was very lucky to visit one of the most outstanding perfumers worldwide in his studio overlooking the rooftops of Florence: Lorenzo Villoresi.

Me in Mr Villoresi's office

This view is truly inspiring, as well as his laboratory is where you are only guided by your senses. „I wanted to realize a dream. Spices and essences have always fascinated me. Perfumery became my passion and later on my profession“.

In the atelier in front of Villoresi's library of scents with over 2000 essences.

His talent is not the fruit of specialised schools or master perfumers, but one which developed gradually thanks to his university studies in Biblical Philology and Ancient Philosophy, which in turn led him to travel extensively in the Middle East.

The experiences he gained there combined with the natural products  of his native Tuscany make his creations so special.

In 1990, he fulfilled his vision and founded his Maison of Perfume in an ancient palace in Via dei Bardi in Florence where he focuses on the great traditions of Florentine perfumery and the original methods which have been used in this craft for many years.

In 2006, he won as the first Italian and independent creator of fragrances, the prestigious Prix Coty, which can only be awarded once in a perfumer’s lifetime.

Donna and Uomo were the names given to Lorenzo Villoresi’s first collection, after which he focused on the creation of monothematic fragrances which included his own personal interpretations of classic themes such as Musk, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Incenses, Spices, Vetiver and Wild Lavender.  Those classic fragrances come in the blue bottles.

The green packaging stands for the Olea Europaea collection that is based on olive-oil offering products for the body, bath and hair.

His so-called fantasy fragrances currently draw inspiration from actual „olfactory visions“ which conjure up exotic and mystical worlds, moods and settings, including among others:

the suggestive Piper Nigrum (fresh, aromatic, spicy and peppery with reminiscences of oriental and arab markets),

the warm Alamut (rich, opulent and velvety flowers of a Thousand and One Nights, a sensual journey to the Orient),

and my absolut favourite, the sophisticated Teint de Neige, „the colour of snow“.

My Teint de Neige collection

Teint de Neige consists of  powdery and sweet notes of jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang on a base of musk, Tonka beans and heliotrope. The  aroma is delicately permeated by the richness of the natural extracts of precious flowers, recalling the light, images and atmosphere of the belle-époque.

A whole range of products is available from shower gel to body cream, from scented candles to room fragrances featuring this wonderful scent.

Getting to know Villoresi during the process of creating your personalised fragrance.

If you have always dreamt of having your own custom-made fragrance, Lorenzo Villoresi’ s atelier would be the place to go. During your appointment, you are spending 2-3 hours approximately with the artist himself. Your „tailor-made“ fragrance is then the result of a direct exchange between you and him; desires, words and feelings are processed together and transformed into a perfume.
Villoresi becomes a sort of Demiurge who, through his intellectual capacity and technical skills, can translate the essence of an ambition, dream or adventure into a fragrant product.

At the end of your appointment the personalised fragrance will be consigned to you. The price starts from €3600.-.
You have different options to choose from. One could be for example that you get the following:

1 Perfume 30ml in a crystal bottel with sterling silver top and label
1 Perfume 30ml in a glass bottle
1 blown glass funnel
1 velvet pouch
1 Exclusive fragrance certificate
1 Eau de Toilette 100ml in an extra bottle, with silver plated top and label
1 Eau de Toilette 100ml in  a glass bottle

Villoresi describes his Haute Couture of the Senses like this: „ A perfume should provide a privileged insight into your own personal essence, a clue to your innermost thoughts and journeys of the soul; a door which can either be kept locked or left wide open, leading to opportunities, games and seduction.“
The genius could probably use a perfume rather than words to describe how he feels and also mentiones: „Perfumery is an unlimited world. In the creation of a scent it is possible to recall a feeling or a place, to move to an imaginary space or to invent new emotional dimensions“.

Lorenzo Villoresi also offers a wide range of wonderful home products from pot pourris and scented sachets to jars and dishes to exalt the beauty of your chosen fragranced leaves and woods. Scented candles are also available along with aromitizers and room fragrances with reed diffusers (launched last month).

Two new creations were introduced last year: the incense and perfumed crystals. Conceived from a deep knowledge and love for the Orient, they have been created for perfuming living spaces in a sophisticated way.

Interesting to know is that the term “perfume” comes from Per-Fumum: through smoke, referring to the sacred fumigations to offer thanks to the gods. The incense has always been linked to the world of perfume and can create a magical atmosphere in any room.

The maestro is recently in the process of building the Academy of the Art of Perfume, the world’s first interactive atelier, dedicated to essences and perfumes.

In the ancient family Palace in Via dei Bardi, Villoresi realizes his long-life dream: a centre, split on three floors with an internal garden, aromatic terraces and botanical trails, divided according different themes and study areas, where visitors can discover and delve into the ancient secrets of the art of perfumery and spice hunting.

The “wunderkammer” is said to open next year. I cannot wait to go there on a journey to stimulate my inner senses and to indulge in one of my biggest passions: perfumes!

If you are interested, Lorenzo Villoresi products are available through his online shop and in Zurich at Perfumery Osswald.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Lorenzo Villoresi and © Sandra Bauknecht