Sandra‘s Closet

Yesterday morning in Paris, I attended the Louis Vuitton F/W 2012 show which was the best I have ever seen (It even topped Chanel’s Paris – Bombay…).

When I arrived, I found myself inside a 1920’s inspired train station with a huge Louis Vuitton station clock hanging from the ceiling. And what looked like the runway in the middle, was actually something else…

The show started on time as usual and a gigantic gate opened, there was steam. All of a sudden, I saw rails…

…and an amazing old-fashioned train with a lot of steam rolled inside the hall. The crowd cheered and applauded. Believe me, it takes something to charm the fashionable audience.

Inside the wagon, the models were seated. You could already see the gigantic hats. The ambiance reminded me immediately of the Titanic era. The ladies looked like belonging to the upper class de-boarding the “Vuitton Express”.

THE BAGS

Each lady had a her own porter helping her to carry the oversized bags which were absolutely divine. Hat boxes, vanity cases, weekend bags and petites valises all make an appearance for everyday use. The traditional canvas Monogram finds itself trimmed in real crocodile or embroidered in sequins on a blanket wool, trimmed with box calf. The Speedy has an intense reworking this season, based on and featuring a round signature buckle.

Mink makes its way into Vuitton baggage, utilising vibrant colours to accompany its rich, sumptuous texture.

THE LOOKS

Marc Jacobs played with proportions and this collection seems to be for the tall ones among you. It is all about elongation. The clothing is layered in rich, sumptuous fabrics; long skirts over cigarette pants, long coats over all, each look topped by a tall hat. There is a certain, simple geometry to this elongation, an extended A-line to engulf the entire body.

The normal sized porters seemed tiny in comparison to the tall models. Marc Jacobs did it on purpose to reinforce the point of his towering female silhouette; the men are merely added accessories.

The materials are rich, from kangaroo leather that is patch-worked and bejewelled with plastics to heavy metal yarns replicating Afghan blanket fabrics and brocades and jacquards.

I loved Marc’s thinking about the company’s nineteenth-century origins and travel heritage. Can you believe that he started Louis Vuitton’s Prêt-à-porter collection fifteen years ago… time flies!

Marc after the show in the train

The “Vuitton Express” from inside

Me in front of the train

Bryan Boy with me, isn’t his Jil Sander hat too cute?!

Anna dello Russo

Famous guest: Sarah Jessica Parker

Another reason for my enthusiasm for this amazing, outstanding Louis Vuitton F/W 2012 show might be that it reminded me so much of a collection inspired by the Titanic era that I created during my fashion design studies.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Yesterday, Zurich’s best shoe shop Lovers Lane hosted a trunk show to present the gorgeous creations of Nicholas Kirkwood. The British designer is the biggest name in shoes today, known for his craftsmanship and innovative designs, that are instantly recognisable. He also has a lot of celeb fans, among them Sarah Jessica Parker who wore his extravagant designs all the way through the Sex and the City 2 promotions.
The famed footman came extra to the Swiss city for the event last night and I was very lucky to do an extensive interview with him before he left for New York for a meeting with Anna Wintour this morning.

 

You were born in Germany. Do you speak any German?

No, I was just born there because my Dad was living in Münster at that time.

Being here in Zurich today to present your amazing creations, do you have a vision of the typical Swiss woman?

I came to Switzerland quite a lot when I was younger for my ski holidays. We were always staying at the same hotel that was run by lady who was very firm, and very strict, you could never do something wrong.  When we were running around, she would say no-no.

So tonight I am looking forward to meeting another type of Swiss ladies and see how my customers here look like.

Which woman do you have in mind when creating your shoes in general?

One season is more feminine, the other more angular. It is quite open. Therefore I like to do events like tonight. Seeing the shops I sell to and  meeting the women’s wishes. Every market is different. You have to start somewhere.

You logded with the late Isabella Blow?  Has her eccentric style influenced your work?

She was very encouraging. Any new idea, any of her thoughts would make a good idea. And of course, knowing her was amazing, her inspiration and unique character.

Is there a celeb woman that you would love to dress in your shoes that does not wear them yet?

A very interesting question. Let me think. If I was walking in the streets and my cell phone would be ringing and somebody would be asking me for shoes, who would shock me the most? Mmh, Madonna, no… Now I know. Imelda Marcos! I just want her to have my shoes even if she probably can’t wear them anymore.

Lovers Lane sells other brands as well. Which one do you like the best?

I love very much what Charlotte Olympia does. A wonderful girl, very beautiful. I think we sometimes have the same customer, it is a very close but friendly competition.

I know that you are not a big fan of kitten heels. So how did you like this season’s shoe trend? Will we see one day a Kirkwood kitten heel?

I kind of did a kitten heel, but it was very strange looking. There is more a hype, than a reality to it. A lot of people want it to be a trend, are pushing it to be a trend.
The shoes might be not as high as they were in the last few seasons and I might be completely wrong but I just do not see this happen.

You have a signature look that is instantly recognisable . I truly admire that, especially with all the different collaborations you do, like for example Rodarte, Erdem, Peter Pilotto. Now, you are the new creative director for Pollini. You seem to be an unlikely fit for the traditional house. Do you have a carte blanche? How much freedom do you get in creating for other designers?

Pollini is a big challenge and I like it. I have a lot of work and I do not sleep much.

The best collaborations come out of working together. I’d hate it to be just told „do what you want“. The other party tries to bring the most into it. So the final product is the result of both rather than being too heavily weighted on one side or the other.

How did the pop-up e-commerce shop go? (The runway shoes he created for Peter Pilotto and Erdem were available for just a few days during London Fashion week.)
Would you do it again?

I think we will do it again. It was a great experiment.
In some ways it is the future. Probably sad to say but that is the way things are going to go and we like to keep ahead of the game. Burberry did it with clothes. I might be wrong, but with shoes we were the first.
Fashion is so quick. Something can seem old before it even hits the shops.

Will there be a Nicholas Kirkwood online shop soon? Do you dream of your own stores?

Yes, but we are not there yet.

In 2009, you created jelwery in collaboration with Swarovski? Will we see more Kirkwood in the future? For example handbags, menswear and more?

Men’s shoes, handbags, jewlery and sunglasses, yes! Soon…

Do you like things to be matchy-matchy? Like matching your bag to your shoes?

No, hate it. Similiar colour that is o.k..

Experimenting with heel shapes, negative spaces and shoe shapes might be pretty expensive. Do you have some base models you always start working with?

I try to always do something new. As soon as I have finished the collection, I start over again. I re-start and also keep something. Partly it is mostly somewhere close of what I have just done.  Fashion is too quick to always change.

I read once that you do not like fastenings and excess, do you still agree with that? Has your focus changed or developed during the last years?

No, it is not that I do not like it. There is sometimes a need to have a buckle and sometimes I try to think of other solutions than a buckle. But it is also nice to have those elements in there. When you are at a young stage, you start out on one tune.

Now, I am trying to expand the range, become more obedient to different types of customers, to become more of a shoe brand not just a niche for a small community.
Those details will become part of the collection more and more. There will always be my signature in it, but probably just not so in your face.

Is there a creation that you find horrible today?

Oh yes, especially a shoe that comes out crooked. I normally try to hide and burn it without anybody seeing the disaster.

Did you ever see a woman wearing your shoes and you did not like what you saw?

Sometimes, when I see somebody wearing my shoes completely beaten up. But on the other way, it is a sign that she very much loved them.

I hate it if they are wearing the wrong size and the toes are hanging out.

Have a you ever made a shoe in which it was impossible to stand or walk?

Yes, especially for photo shoots. You could stand in them for 10 seconds and that was it.

The Alice in Wonderland shoes that I made for Printemps in Paris, you could probably not walk in them because of the little hanging porcelaine cups.

Do you have a favourite of your designs?

In some ways I am never satiesfied with anything. Sometimes I am very happy with the way things come out. But once the shoe is made, I am over it. I have seen the process for so long, it gets kind of boring after a while.

It is like recording an album. You are listening to the same thing for such a long time, that by the time it is finished, you can’t stand it.

Your shoes melt contemporary art and fashion? Best example is the upcoming Keith Haring collection. Do you see yourself as an artist?

No, not at all. I am more of a product designer. I studied fine arts at St. Martins. I am a big fan of art. It is a completely other thing. You do not replace it so easily like a piece of fashion. It has more of a longevity to it. There are similiarities to it like the way  people get excited.

I feel a little like the art world looks kind of down on the fashion world, a little bit of a high brow.

Could you imagine to do a collaboration with H&M? Or to create a more budget-friendly second line?

Not yet. I have been approached by similiar kind of things. I always like to promote the quality manufacturing and made in Italy. That is what I sort of believe in. It is different with the ready-to-wear. Regarding footwear, you will really notice a cheap pair of shoes . I don’t want to say that I will never do it. (Laughs…) I will wait until I can make a hell out of money out of it for a one-time-thing. And make a big party after.

I mean, there are a lot of people out there, not everything has to be accessible to everybody.

I don’t say that I will never,  there is just no need at the moment unless I will be forced by a powerful editor who says you have to.

Like the one you are seeing tomorrow (Anna Wintour)?

Laughs again. No, not her.

I hope that you have liked the interview. I had a blast talking to Nicholas as he is such a sweet guy. The party at Lovers Lane was really great. I took some photos for you to get an impression.

And gentlemen, sometimes it is worth going shoe-shopping with your wifes or girlfriends. There might be a little treat for you, too.

LoL, Sandra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sarah Jessica Parker attended yesterday in London the S/S 2011 Burberry Prorsum fashion show in an outfit that made her the style candy of the day.

The trendsetting actress wore a brown lace dress from the F/W 2010 line by Burberry Prorsum together with a stunning leather jacket from the upcoming Resort 2011 collection. In case you do not like to wait and would love to save some money, mytheresa sells a very similiar one on sale.

Sarah Jessica Parker topped off her look with a pale rose bag by Alexander McQueen and some killer heels by Nicholas Kirkwood.

Thumbs up!

LoL, Sandra

Since almost 2 years now, I have been in two minds about how colouring my hair. I used to be a blonde before letting it grow out. But I realised my undecisiveness bestowed a gift upon me. My hair is having the new must-have It-colour: Bronde!

I know it is another new term but I am loving it. It is a little brunette and a little blond– a combination that almost suits everyone instantly bringing out a warm glow in the face. Forerunners of those honey, caramel, buttersotch  and cognac-coloured highlights or let`s better say lowlights are Gisèle Bündchen and Jennifer Lopez among many others.

Sarah Jessica Parker paraded the very natural, sun-kissed look wonderfully in Sex and the City 2 with just a little lighter colour framing her face.

The much-coveted hue has two other advantages: it is budget- and texture-friendly. I still love silky, shiny and healthy-looking blonde hair but the time of too-much broken platinum “blonderexia” is definitely over.

I am enjoying my low maintenance version of blonde and my upgrade for brunette.

LoL, Sandra

The cult of Louis Vuitton`s Stephen Sprouse leo scarf is a worldwide phenomena. It started in 2006 when Marc Jacobs made his first tribute to the artist, who had died at the age of 50 in 2004, by using the leo print the two had created together. An It-stole was born.
The first colour marron has become an integral part of every year`s collection, followed by other seasonal versions. Wrapped around many celeb necks, the scarf is bound to go down in history as one of the most famous of its kind.

Another historical moment took place last month in London when Louis Vuitton celebrated their new store on New Bond Street with the launch of 4 limited editions of their iconic Leo scarves. Only available in the British capital, they were sold out immediately on the opening day.

I know so many who were diappointed the last years because they missed the new colours. We do not want this to happen again! Here is the preview of the two latest designs for F/W 2010, said to be in stores around August. The statement piece was seen already on Margherita Missoni in Monte Carlo (see above). Always good to be friends with a designer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So girls, who are not on good terms with Marc, get yourselves on the wait lists now and claws out for the new leo!

LoL, Sandra

Sex and the City 2 hits the theaters next week on May 27. Enjoy my insight into the much discussed, long-awaited movie that is a must for every fashionista.

What happens if you say yes? It is two years later, Carrie is living the life with Big which lost a little its sparkle, Samantha has become a pill-addicted, Charlotte is struggling with the pressure she is experiencing as a mother of two, only Miranda seems to cope with her life as a  mom and a professional woman. Still all girls look fantastic in their to-die-for outfits once again put together by famous stylist Patricia Field. Guest stars are Penelope Cruz, Liza Minelli and “Hannah Montana” actress Miley Cyrus.

A little excitement comes in when the girls jump at a chance for an all-expenses-paid trip to Abu Dhabi. The glamorous, sun-drenched adventure surprises with some mysterious coincidences like Carrie bumping into her ex Aidan. The desert looks are so vivid, luxurious and divine. Fashionistas, grab your turbans!

Last week, the book to the movie “Sex and the City 2 – The Stories. The Fashion. The Adventure” was released. It is a great buy as you can find most of the foursome`s outfits with detailed descriptions.

The new must-have accessories will be sweatbands, preferably in neon colours. As spotted on Sarah Jessica Parker – just gorgeous!
Moreover for your evenings out, Skyy Vodka offers “cocktail couture” with a special designed SATC 2 bottle designed by Patricia Field.

The hype has no end in sight. Bergdorf Goodman asked Patricia Field to style the windows of their department store on 58th street. Each of them celebrates a familiar Sex and the City moment. That is New York City!

The four actresses are the cover girls for the recent June edition of American Marie Claire magazine. Get your issue now.

One last anecdote. The buzz began last summer when tons of fans followed the crew around the city to get the best views on the first location shoots. Rumors had it quickly that Samantha will tie the knot in the sequel after her appearance in a bridal gown. There had been many memorable weddings on the show. Think about Charlotte and Trey in the kilt, or that beautiful little ceremony between Steve and Miranda, not to forget Mr. Big and Carrie.

In case you thought Samantha would be the last girl to put the ring on it, you got duped. Kim Cattrall who plays the maneater Samantha had the devious idea to set the fans on the wrong track. There is going to be a ceremony indeed, but it will be a gay one between Stanford and Anthony. Carrie will wear a smoking, don`t you think that this is probably a little too cliché?!

If you cannot get enough of Carrie, I recommend Candace Bushnell`s newest book. “The Carrie Diaries” is about the young protagonist as a high-school senior. A nostalgic look back, an addictive story and a nice way of getting to know our iconic “Sex and the city” fashionista a little better.

Get carried away!

LoL, Sandra