Sandra‘s Closet

I am still so in shock. One of my favorite designers, especially because of his amazing character, Alber Elbaz, died Saturday in Paris from Covid-19. He was such a warm-hearted person, always thinking about his employees. Instantly recognisable for his broad smile and distinctive personal uniform of bow ties and thick-rimmed glasses, he was best known for his star turn leading couture house Lanvin. At their peak, sales were as high as €235 million. He definitely died too young, in June he would have turned 60.

Born in Morocco and educated in Israel, Elbaz climbed the ranks of the fashion industry from a small dressmaker’s shop in New York City to serve at the helm of Guy Laroche. Then appointed by Pierre Bergé, Elbaz next worked as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent from 1998 until he was fired after three seasons when Gucci bought the company and put Tom Ford in charge.

Designer Alber Elbaz walks down the runway at the S/S 2004 Lanvin show in Paris.

Elbaz began designing for Lanvin in 2001. He also held a minority stake in the company of nearly 18 percent. During his 14-year tenure, he was credited with the house’s renewed appeal thanks to Elbaz’s «classic with a twist» takes on silk cocktail dresses and other feminine designs, often playing with color or other unusual variations on hallmark elegance.

Alber’s sketches for Lanvin

His humorous sketches of everything from lollipops to his own face became a brand signature, also remember the amazing collaboration he did with Lancôme. Elbaz’s simple, feminine clothing, which has been compared to Lanvin’s 1920s outfits, was lauded by the fashion press. In 2005 Suzy Menkes wrote: «Elbaz is every woman’s darling. And that includes Nicole, Kate, Chloë Sevigny, Sofia Coppola and a slew of rising movie names.»

In October 2015, Elbaz announced that he had been let go from Lanvin after disagreements with the company’s major shareholder, Shaw-Lan Wang. He then took some time off until he launched a new label together with Swiss luxury group Richemont, AZ Factory, in January.

A tribute to Alber today on the AZ Factory homepage.

The following text has been written months ago but sometimes time flies and I always postponed to post it. It feels so bizarre to show it to you now post mortem. However, it is a tribute to Alber, to his latest venture in fashion, that hopefully will also have a great input how the world consumes fashion. It is all about inclusivity and diversity. I invite you to get your last piece designed by Alber…

In a Zoom call with Alber in January…

So let me introduce you to AZ Factory, the eagerly awaited fashion concept from Alber Elbaz. Launched at Paris Haute Couture Week in January, it had not only marked the comeback of Elbaz but also Richemont’s first foray into launching a fashion label from scratch, a €25 million investment, that is focusing on online distribution.

Described as Elbaz’ «dream factory» and created with «women of our times» in mind, the label is an expansion of the playful, confident pieces that have become his calling card through the years. This is a marvellous fashion moment! Neither a revolution nor an evolution but a refreshing reset! AZ Factory might change the face of luxury fashion as long as we’ve known it and Alber Elbaz might have become the new «Hervé Leger». Over the next few months a six part capsule collection will be launching.

Alber wanted to design for «All Women».

And one of the most exciting elements surrounding this new brand is the diversity in its sizing, with an emphasis placed on the fact that this entire six capsule series is inclusive for «All Women,» placing importance on body positivity and inclusivity. Sizing ranges from XXS-4XL or FR34 – FR48.

MyBody ribbed stretch-knit mini dress and MyBody paneled stretch-knit leggings

MyBody
The essence of the MyBody capsule is bodycon styles made from a technical weave fabric that sculpt the female form. The AnatoKnit technology provides hugging tension that shapes your natural curves. The boning at the back supports your posture and the ergonomic design features allow for movement and breathability. The idea behind this is functional fashion that has been made for «women on the move» and Alber wanted to encourage us to wear these with their sneakers. I think they’d look perfectly splendid with heels too.

Your Body color-block ribbed stretch-knit mini dress and Your Body striped stretch-knit leggings

MyBody 2.0
The sporty edition of MY BODY. This additional story features colourblock designs paired with matching leggings. It’s the next level of athleisure.

Pijama Valentine printed silk-twill shirt and Pijama Valentine printed silk-twill wide-leg pants

Switchwear Pyjamas
Uplifting printed silk pyjamas are equally suited for sleep or for styling your look day or night. Made in collaboration with several artists and designers, which Alber found on Instagram due to the pandemic, these touching visuals reflect the emotions of our times and the wish to spread messages of hope, love and togetherness.

Switchwear recycled duchesse-satin maxi skirt

Switchwear
From bed, Zoom, to yoga, to the supermarket, to couch, to date night – Switchwear takes you from cozy to couture (and back!) in under 60 seconds. Upgrade your supremely soft Switchwear Prime-layers with the iridescent, satin-like Switchwear Duchesse Add Ons.

Neoprene and mesh sneakers

Pointy Sneakers
Hybrid footwear that combines the comfort and function of a sneaker with the elongating benefits of a pointy-toe shoes. Performance sneaker construction so you don’t have to trade off all-day comfort and stability.

In light of this, I was invited by Alber Elbaz and NET-A-PORTER to a live launch celebration for AZ Factory in the end of January. I also received a spectacle in a box to open during the event that included sweets, a puzzle, ….

Alber is such a sweet human being. He told us that he started his new venture by thinking: «How can I hug women? Who’s my customer? Is she an architect, who’s her mother, does she have kids?» He went on: «I wanted to create something for all of them. I never had one muse. I have never understood how to design for only one woman. It is the variety that counts. The world doesn’t exist of one song, one book or just one woman. Life is not black and white. I wanted to find something in the middle without being mediocre. I thought due to my own body shape that you have to hide who you are if you are a plus size. And the tiny women are sent to the children’s department. I wanted to change that. I also created the long zip opener so that women are not dependent on a man to open their dress. My sneakers are hybrid footwear, pointed like pumps to elongate the legs with all-day comfort. SwitchWear plays a key role for me. For example you wear leggings for travel and once you arrive, you just put a skirt over it. It’s modular dressing and also includes pyjamas. It is comfort, technology and a couture dream in one.»

Creativity? «The moment I feel and don’t be asked…» Az Lazy, Az Crazy…

Thank you, Alber, for your creativity, your positivity and for making us dream… you will never be forgotten!

TO SHOP AZ FACTORY, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © AZ Factory, Net-à-Porter, © Sandra Bauknecht
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The Florentine fashion house reveals a new publication «Unexpected Pucci», edited by Laudomia Pucci and published by Rizzoli New York. A book narrating the world of Emilio Pucci beyond fashion by presenting key projects explored in the field of interior design and art from the 1960s to present.

The introduction is signed by Suzy Menkes, editor of Vogue International, followed by the valuable contributions of independent journalist Angelo Flaccavento, architect and designer Piero Lissoni and artists Francesco Vezzoli and Joana Vasconcelos.

«Unexpected Pucci defines the designer’s wider world, encompassing colorful rugs, modernist porcelain, furniture and interior design – all in the spirit of the early years of Milan’s Salone del Mobile. Perhaps the easiest artistic flow was in the rugs, where blocks, swirls and linear shapes were contained inside a geometric square – just like in the famous “Emilio” head scarves, as worn by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and the Capri set. Bringing things together—history and modernity, linear and rounded, pattern and plain – were all part of the artistry of Emilio Pucci. His prints stamped their place on the body or in the home». – Suzy Menkes

The brand’s artistic journey – from Mediterranean colours and silk scarves to ground-breaking
partnerships with international leaders of art and design – is told through chapters covering rugs,
porcelains, art and collaborations.

An archive treasure rediscovered. The Pucci rugs, first launched at the Museum of Decorative Arts,
Buenos Aires in 1970 have been reissued in the brand’s historic prints (Ovali, Occhi, Giardino,
Lamborghini, Menelik and Hawaii) available through a bespoke service at the Emilio Pucci Heritage Hub.

A dedicated chapter to chinaware, includes masterpieces made in collaboration with Rosenthal, where iconic prints (including the «unexpected» Pebble motif) adorn coffee and tea sets, vases and plates.

The final chapter of the book chronicles the brand’s collaborations and partnerships with leading brands of homeware and interior design. With Bisazza, Emilio Pucci turned prints into handmade decorative panels for interiors and swimming pools. Whereas unique seating solutions have been produced with Cappellini, including the Rive Droite armchair designed by Patrick Norguet, and the poolside collection by Piero Lissoni. With Kartell, the Florentine brand in 2014 launched the iconic Madame chair, designed by Philippe Starck. In 2016, the patterns from the Pucci’s project «Cities of The World» embellished the cups designed by Matteo Thun in 1991 for Illy.

To celebrate the launch of the book, an installation will be set up in Palazzo Pucci – also known as the Emilio Pucci Heritage Hub (via de’ Pucci 6, Florence), – where key elements from the book will be exhibited in a labyrinth inspired by the graphic and unexpected Torre print. Key highlights will include, chinaware, rugs and never-before exhibited artworks inspired by the founder Emilio Pucci.

«With this book, we want to narrate the versatility and the universe of our brand. These objects have overtime embellished key moments of our fashion house and I’m excited to share the creative richness of these deluxe collaborations, especially with the younger generation. » – Laudomia Pucci

Unexpected Pucci will be available September 2019 in all Emilio Pucci boutiques and online store as well as in the Rizzoli networks. Price 90 $| 90$ Euro.

I will be soon in Florence and cannot wait to discover this beautiful universe of one of my favorite brands. To read an interview that I did with Laudomia Pucci many years ago, click here please.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Emilio Pucci

According to Tim Blanks, the ninth-floor penthouse, where Roberto Cavalli presented his F/W 2013 men’s collection Sunday night in Milan, once belonged to the Gucci who was gunned down by his wife. Overlooking the rooftops of Milan, the spectacular views were the perfect backdrop for the outstanding presentation. Daniele Cavalli, who has been at the helmet of the menswear arm since two years, had a vision and transformed the amazing flat into a gentlemen’s club in impressive colours of purple and burgundy.

Instead of a fashion show, the collection was presented on mannequins, next to the photos and videos created by well-known photographer Rankin. I totally liked that approach as you could truly look at all the details of the looks and believe me, there were many.

Precious fabrics, from crocodile-printed pony skin to all-over sequined embroideries, of course the uniqueness of a print, and Daniele’s strongest talent, the combination of all those eye-catching details (see all the photos below please).

Daniele told me a little about his inspiration, that he used a teleidoscope, a kind of kaleidoscope, to create his very special prints, in form of kaleidoscopic patterns.

So then, no fashion shows this season. The reason?
The runway and the long walk before the public and photographers enhances and highlights the spectacular nature of feminine seduction. The same does not apply to the male essence. On the contrary, this might be the motive behind the skepticism of many men towards fashion. This collection aims at celebrating male reality.

Many famous journalists attended the event, among them Suzy Menkes…

… and Tim Blanks, who were both listening to Daniele’s vision.

Eva Cavalli chatting with Tim Blanks

Guests of the event were spoilt to all sorts of Cavalli Vodka drinks and enjoyed a musical performance of The Cyborgs. A fashion show that was more a fashion party in the world’s most stylish gentlemen’s club ever. Thumbs up!

Have fun looking at all the photos from the amazing night!

LoL, Sandra

Photographer Rankin with Alex Postiglione

Me at work in the kaleidoscopic room where the accessories were presented.

Olivier Zahm (Purple magazine) with me
Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

According to the New York Times today, it is confirmed that Raf Simons, 44, will take over immediately as artistic director at Christian Dior. Supposedly, the Paris fashion house will announce the news on Wednesday officially. Simons will be replacing John Galliano, who was fired from Dior last year after he made anti-Semitic remarks.

His first collection is planned for July at the fall haute couture shows. The Belgian designer, who worked for the house of Jil Sander before, will be in charge of haute couture, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, while keeping his eponymous men’s line.

“I feel fantastic,” Mr. Simons said by telephone from his studio in Antwerp to Suzy Menkes. “It is one of the ultimate challenges, and a dream to go to a place like Dior, which stands for absolute elegance, incredible femininity and utter luxury.”

So my guess in February was right… click here for the previous post.

LoL, Sandra

The most exciting part of my trip to Paris was the launch event for the “Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp” collection at the famous concept store Colette. As you know, I am a huge fan of Mary and her designs. Her talent is truly outstanding and I was so happy to see her again. (For a previous post, please click here.)

Below you see the text from the official press release. Can you imagine how honoured I felt to be mentioned in the same breath with Emmanuelle Alt,  Suzy Menkes or Glenda Bailey.

Please enjoy the photos of the evening and have a look at those beautifully printed bags:

For this occasion, the facade of the famous colette concept store was spectacularly covered with one of the exclusive prints from the “Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp” collection. It will stay like this one week.

Sweet Mary Katrantzou with me wearing (of course!) Mary Katrantzou

A unique “Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp” Le Pliage bag, 1 meter high and 2,5 meter large, was exposed in the interior courtyard.

The bags on display.

Love this tote bag with the poetic digital “Lanterne” print, €320.

The “Aquarium” print on the tote bag , €350, is awesome. The little pouch, € 55, to the right is already in my closet as each guest got it as a gift. Thank you so much!

The bottles of champagne served were all printed with the colours of Mary’s inspirational theme “When East meets West” for this new collection.

Some pieces of Mary’s must-have S/S 2012 collection were already on display. I am crazy for those dresses! Flower prints and underwater world inspired themes are huge fashion trends for the season.

Mary’s ultimate accolade: Fashion’s most powerful ladies all came to see her designs.

Suzy Menkes, Mary Katrantzou and Sophie Delafontaine, Artistic Director of the Longchamp House

Jean Cassegrain, Owner of Longchamp with Glenda Bailey, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar US and Mary Katrantzou.

Mary, you can be so proud of yourself!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Longchamp and © Sandra Bauknecht

I am in Paris for the Fashion Week at the moment.

This morning, I went to see Stella McCartney’s S/S 2011 show which I have absolutely loved.

The first looks were iconic, confidently masculine tailored in fresh pastels. Further on, Stella tried a new take on denim and gave it a modern feel by playing with proportion and volume. My absolute favourites were the printed long silk dresses with box pleats and slit legs. Understated seduction in perfection.

Another must-have is definitely the sleeveless trench coat. If you like it bold, you will adore the symmetric botanical citrus prints. Everyone can find something in this collection, very versatile with signature looks and a new foray into sexiness.

Enjoy all my impressions, the celebrities, famous stylists, and for sure all the beautiful new looks for next summer. As you see, I had a blast.

LoL, Sandra