The Top 20 Runway Trends for S/S 2023

From New York to London, Milan and Paris, in this post I round up the biggest trends of the summer season. Color is very important, worn in a mostly monochrome way, from shades of beige, to magenta, red, lilac and baby blue. For the more daring, neon hues and cutouts are leading the way.

Cargo pants, biker jackets and fringes are absolute must-haves! Enjoy those beautiful collections.

LoL, Sandra

If you buy one thing for spring, make it a pair of multi-pocketed cargo pants. From their origins in the British army in the late 1930s to today, cargo pants have not aged a bit. This season they are elevated to fashion essentials.

Flannel shirts are an object of desire courtesy of Bottega Veneta and Dr Martens are still holding strong. Enjoy this ’90s grunge.

Denim takes up the Y2K mantle for spring, which means waistlines are down, bellies are exposed, and knee-high boots haven’t been spared either. Begin by reacquainting yourself with Alexander McQueen’s Bumsters, first debuted as part of his Taxi Driver collection for F/W 1993.

Fluorescent shades of blue, green and yellow boosted the summery allure of the silhouettes, which came with a futuristic aesthetic at Balenciaga or Miu Miu.

The baby blues, a soft chromatic mood tinted the second skin silhouettes, which were resolutely fluid and innocent.

For seasons on end, pops of purple have given way to sweeping, head-to-toe lilac looks. You better get used to it!

Magenta is the Pantone Color of the Year 2023, so no wonder shades of red are all over the runways. But it is nothing for the shy, the trend expects you to sport the vibrant shade head-to-toe. My favorite? Ferragamo’s all over sparkles.

The monochromatic silhouette came only in shades of beige. Miu Miu, Max Mara and Dior case fashion staples rather than statement pieces, daring to layer up classic basics in varying hues.

Blending craftsmanship and ’70s charm, crochet remains a failsafe option for summer.

The latest take on fringing is a far cry from its bohemian aesthetic, with the detail adorning even the most sophisticated pieces in your wardrobe.

Hints of fringing feathers and glitter details are bringing back the Roaring Twenties! However the ’20s glamour got a minimalist makeover, without compromising on elegance.

Let’s ride! From the street to the runway, the biker trend is showing no sign of slowing down.

Literal interpretations of the gothic style were replaced by a soft grunge talk on the aesthetic. Black dominates the goth girl look. Complete the vibe by playing on volume and transparency.

Transparency create a silhouette that is sexier than ever. The must-have black dresses of the season hinted at glimpses at several designers.

In what was an ingenious display of creativity, fashion played with optical illusions, unveiling troupe-l’oeil pieces that transformed the ordinary into the extraordinary.

Whether with a new twist on a bouquet or with lifelike tropical flowers, designers transformed simple garments into blossoming works of art.

Living out our costume-drama dreams has never been so easy, thanks to the return of 16th-century farthingales, 17th-century panniers and 19th-century crinolines.

Hoods are the strangely sexy accessory taking over the summer runways. Totally reminiscent of the most renowned Alaïa muse, Grace Jones, who triumphed this look in the ’80s.

Cutouts have moved to a very daring spot. Nothing for the shy…

As the world gets more inclusive, fashion is a welcome way to express your current mood. That means you can dress up as much as you like to get all the attention. References from previous decades are a welcome source of inspiration. Even the poodle skirt is back!

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

The Top 20 Runway Trends for F/W 2022

Being still in the throes of a global pandemic, and following the Russian invasion of Ukraine, it was a bizarre fashion week. It felt awkward on one side, on the other you saw that designers felt that urge to live again, while setting a statement.

The revival of the 2000s «Y2K» which is the shorthand for «the year 2000» is still going strong along with vibrant colors and strong shoulders on which you can carry the weight of the world. Literally.

Enjoy those beautiful collections and as I wished already six months ago, let’s hope again that we will find peace this season and finally learn from our history.

LoL, Sandra

The must-have of the season is actually a very summery item. The white tank top gives an elevated take on wardrobe essentials this season.

Never out of style, the flight jacket aka bomber jacket is a wardrobe hero that can be worn for all occasions. From morning walk to weekend lunch to evening gala, it has had various luxe updates for fall.

Silhouettes built for speed give motorcross its fashion credentials.

More and more designers skip animal fur and work on creating the perfect faux fur. This winter mainly in neutral colors and oversized shapes.

This winter, leather is a second skin and creates eye-catching looks.

Knitwear combinations in form of dresses with cardigans or sweater with matching skirts are all the rage this winter.

Attention catwomen! Luxe leopard is really feeling fresh again.

Strong shoulders have been seen frequently at Balenciaga. Thanks to Demna Gvasalia who shaped the fashion industry in myriad ways, this detail has inspired many runway shows this winter. In form of oversized blazers styled in different ways, they are the key pieces to look for.

Corporate tailoring is heading out-of-office for autumn. Oversized tailoring, crazy prints and vibrant colors promise a fabulous sabbatical.

Mood-boosting hues in rainbow colors – designers used those shades often head-to-toe or in color block options.

Transparency takes it up a notch also for winter in skin-tight silhouettes and fearless cut-outs. The difference now? Body-con isn’t just for twiglets. Models of all sizes sported the looks down the runways.

The Y2K trend is here to stay. Also this F/W 2022 season, low-rise waists, micro minis, visible underwear and all-over denim live their revival to the fullest. The 2000s are back!

Another revival that has been spotted on several runways is the punk-fuelled trend. Tartan patchworks, edgy lines and multiple buckles add to the vibe.

Back to school! The coolest uniforms break out of the classroom and onto the runway.

This season, fashion is extreme. Either you wear miniskirts or opt for great lengths that fell to the floor this fall.

Red alert! The modern woman dresses head to toe in tight pants and sexy tops in the most feminine color of all.

Corsets and a focus on the waist are huge this winter season. The best way? Corsetry introduces structured lines to flowing gowns for a contemporary feminine silhouette.

Fashion can be art, it is a form of expression. With all uncertainties in the world, designers are creating looks to dress up. Layered, colorful, voluminous, and wild to unleash your inner child.

The perfect looks for happily ever after stories with tulle fabrications so light they are reminiscent of cloud nine, painted in a delicate palette of pastel shades.

The Roaring Twenties: Art Deco accents, boas and shimmering details ask for a Great Gatsby revival at its best.

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

The Top 15 Runway Trends for F/W 2017

Here they are: the most important trends for the F/W 2017 season. Americana vibes, a powerful way to wear red, and vintage-inspired everything. Enjoy this comprehensive look at the pieces you’ll be wearing shortly. Deconstructed clothing is here to stay as well as florals and leisure suits. If you are looking at the new skirts, mid-length is the way to go.

I cannot wait for this beautiful season to arrive in stores.

LoL, Sandra

F/W 2017 TREND 1: POWER RED
Givenchy – Fendi – Max Mara

F/W 2017 TREND 2: FUTURISTIC SILVER
Saint Laurent – Chanel – Comme des Garçons

F/W 2017 TREND 3: NEW TRANSPARENCY
Calvin Klein – Miu Miu – Emilio Pucci

F/W 2017 TREND 4: WILD WEST
House of Holland – Balmain – Alexander Wang

F/W 2017 TREND 5: FOLKLORE
Gucci – Etro – Maison Margiela

F/W 2017 TREND 6: EVENING VELVET
Jason Wu – Alberta Ferretti – Erdem

F/W 2017 TREND 7: RETRO FUR
Louis Vuitton – Michael Kors – Loewe

F/W 2017 TREND 8: ’70s PLAID
Tory Burch – Marni – Hermès

F/W 2017 TREND 9: FEATHERS
Prada – Mary Katrantzou – Elie Saab

F/W 2017 TREND 10: LEISURE SUITS
Chloé – Marc Jacobs – Ashish

F/W 2017 TREND 11: BROAD SHOULDERS
Dries Van Noten – Jacquemus – Isabel Marant

F/W 2017 TREND 12: RECYCLING
Dolce & Gabbana – Moschino – Junya Watanabe

F/W 2017 TREND 13: LACE OVERLAY
Stella McCartney – Burberry – Alessandra Rich

F/W 2017 TREND 14: WALLPAPER FLORALS
Mulberry – Emilia Wickstead – Balenciaga

F/W 2017 TREND 15: DENIM SUITS
Sacai – Christian Dior – Esteban Cortazar

Photos: Via Vogue.com

The Top 15 Runway Trends for S/S 2016

SS 2016 Most Important Trends

Here they are: the most important trends for the S/S 2016 season. Scroll through my forecast to see which styles will be on everyone’s shopping list next season. Let’s be honest, there is nothing really new, but that is the beauty of our century. Everything is possible!

LoL, Sandra

SS2016 Sweet Girls

S/S 2016 TREND 1: SWEET GIRLS
Miu Miu – Gucci – Dries Van Noten

SS2016 Sleepwear

S/S 2016 TREND 2: SLEEPWEAR
Balenciaga – Loewe – Alexander Wang

SS2016-Arm_Candy

S/S 2016 TREND 3: ARM CANDY
Dior – Fendi – Céline

SS2016 Off the shoulder

S/S 2016 TREND 4: OFF THE SHOULDER
Sonia Rykiel – Proenza Schouler – Edun

SS2016 Romanticism

S/S 2016 TREND 5: ROMANTICISM
Alexander McQueen – Saint Laurent – Etro

SS2016 Tribal

S/S 2016 TREND 6: TRIBAL
Balmain – Prada – Valentino

SS2016 Jungle

S/S 2016 TREND 7: JUNGLE
Roberto Cavalli – Versace – Bottega Veneta

SS 2016 Tie-Dye

S/S 2016 TREND 8: TIE-DYE
Narciso Rodriguez – Altuzarra – Paco Rabanne

SS 2016 Fine Lines

S/S 2016 TREND 9: FINE LINES
Salvatore Ferragamo – Stella McCartney – Tommy Hilfiger

SS2016 Stars and Stripes

S/S 2016 TREND 10: STARS & STRIPES
Lacoste – Marc Jacobs – Max Mara

SS2016 Boyish Overalls

S/S 2016 TREND 11: BOYISH OVERALLS
Louis Vuitton – Isabel Marant – Ralph Lauren Collection

SS 2016 Denim

S/S 2016 TREND 12: NEW DENIM
Derek Lam – Chloé – Chanel

SS2016 Disco Sparkle

S/S 2016 TREND 13: DISCO SPARKLE
Lanvin – Vetements – Nina Ricci

SS 2016 Silver

S/S 2016 TREND 14: SILVER
Victoria Beckham – Tom Ford – Courrèges

SS2016 Transparency

S/S 2016 TREND 15: TRANSPARENT EMOTIONS
Dolce & Gabbana – Emilio Pucci – Burberry Prorsum

Photos: Via Vogue.com

At the Akris S/S 2013 Show & After Party

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“90 looks, exceptionally once, for the 90th anniversary in a Roberto Burle Marx inspired garden. The Brazilian landscape architect, plantsman and painter invented a new language for modern landscape design. He abandoned the tradition of the straight line and cultivated a passion for curved and sensual lines. His work is, in the detail and as a whole, always one and the same. Inimitable!”

AKRIS is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year. A wonderful reason for Albert and Peter Kriemler to throw a party after the presentation of the S/S 2013 collection during Paris Fashion Week. 90 looks were shown on the runway of which many were noticeably transparent. Sexy without being vulgar – Albert Kriemler is one of the rare designers who can make this work in an elegant and sophisticated way. The collection was inspired by landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx and the prints as well as the setting of the show resembled a beautiful greenhouse. Tailoring is the soul of Akris and played a huge role as usual. The colour palette developed from black to basic shades such as white and beige to vibrant hues of green, yellow and fluo coral pink. The only look that was a little too extravagant for me was the shift dress with a gigantic organza leaf appliqué (see collage above). Personally speaking, I like Albert Kriemler’s modern jungle chic, a worthy jubilee collection!

Have a look at the collection below and see which celebrity attended the show:

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PRINTS and LEATHER

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COLOUR

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“Style is all about the woman; it’s about her personality. You should notice the woman first, and what she is wearing follows.” – Albert Kriemler

ALBERT KRIEMLER-CHARLENE_VICTORIA STEEL-PETER KRIEMLERAlbert Kriemler, Princess Charlene of Monaco, Valerie Steele and Peter Kriemler

Princess Charlene of Monaco, who is a huge fan of  the Akris brand, attended the show and listened to the very emotional speech given by Peter Kriemler, Global President of Akris, in honour of the house’s 90th anniversary. Later, she joined the after party.

NORA-SANDRA_KIM_SARAAt the party: Nora Baldenweg, Kim Dang (NZZ) and Sara Allerstorfer (Bolero Magazine) with me.

akrisbook1

« AKRIS » by Valerie Steele 11 x 14 in – 28 x 35 cm |192 pages | 150 illustrations | Hardcover
available in English and German $125 – €100 – £80

Limited Edition of 90 11 x 14 in – 28 x 35 cm |192 pages | 150 illustrations | Hardcover with Horsehair bag
Available in English and German $1922 – €1922
Fall 2012, Assouline

A great book that maps the rich heritage of Akris and its dynamic evolution in the recent years.

Akris is available in Zurich at Gassmann.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Akris and @ Sandra Bauknecht

At the Stella McCartney F/W 2011 Show

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IMG_1292What a lovely morning. The sky was blue and the sun was shining when I went to the to see the Stella McCartney F/W 2011 show in the Paris Opera house. The collection was like the weather, just amazing, probably one of her best presentations.

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Me inside...

..sitting next to Tim Blanks from style.com.

..sitting next to Tim Blanks from style.com.

The fashionable crowd is waiting for...

The fashionable crowd is waiting for...

...the show to begin.

...the show to begin.

The first looks were sculptural pleated silhouettes in black and astro blue.

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Stella defined a new silhouette with broader shoulders borrowed from the menswear. She is always strong when it comes to tailoring. For winter, it will be masculine and exggerated. Her knitwear pieces were all about texture. I loved the gold foil felted wool in bold volumes.

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The show got better from piece to piece. Blue velvet was bonded with scuba stretch, introducing body contouring silhouettes. Those dresses are so sexy. 
Hand embroidered spots floated on transparent tulle. Separates were layered using different sizes of polka dots to graphic effect.

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Accessories echoed the collection, from stiletto pumps with gold foiled soles to flat masculine loafers and clutches made of hand cut resin with rounded brass details for evening. So beautiful!

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The Finale

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Look whom and what I spotted after the show:

Grace Coddington

Grace Coddington

Bergdorf Goodman's Linda Fargo

Bergdorf Goodman's Linda Fargo

Model Liya Kebede

Model Liya Kebede

Aline Weber in a Marc Jacobs jacket

Aline Weber in a Marc Jacobs jacket

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Suzy Menkes

Prada stripes

Prada stripes

Floor-sweeping fur at Stella, I am sure she wasn't happy about that!

Floor-sweeping fur at Stella, I am sure she wasn't happy about that!

Stay tuned as I got some great streetstyle shots today in front of the opera!

LoL, Sandra

Miu Miu’s Special Edition Bags

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Have a look at Miu Miu`s new S/S 2010 Special Edition of light and transparent handbags that will be available exclusively in Miu Miu Stores from May. The iconic bag has been reworked in plex with silkscreened birds and comes in five different colours. As transparency is a big trend this season, this would be a great piece to own.

LoL, Sandra

 

 

Accessory Report S/S 2010: Transparency

S 2012

One of the trends for accessories next season is transparency. PVC and plexiglass are used as major materials for shoes and bags. The Prada tote with the leather handles and the detachable case will be a good choice for flying as you could probably avoid discussions with the security guards. The other positive aspect might be that you will find all your  personal belongings very easily…… but be careful others will do, too! Besides you better be very tidy and have no hidden secrets!

A gorgeous choice are the Prada mules with the plexiglass heel and the crystal chandelier details.

I am looking forward to seeing your life in your bag.

LoL, Sandra