Sandra‘s Closet

From New York to London, Milan and Paris, in this post I round up the biggest trends of the summer season. Color is very important, worn in a mostly monochrome way, from shades of beige, to magenta, red, lilac and baby blue. For the more daring, neon hues and cutouts are leading the way.

Cargo pants, biker jackets and fringes are absolute must-haves! Enjoy those beautiful collections.

LoL, Sandra

If you buy one thing for spring, make it a pair of multi-pocketed cargo pants. From their origins in the British army in the late 1930s to today, cargo pants have not aged a bit. This season they are elevated to fashion essentials.

Flannel shirts are an object of desire courtesy of Bottega Veneta and Dr Martens are still holding strong. Enjoy this ’90s grunge.

Denim takes up the Y2K mantle for spring, which means waistlines are down, bellies are exposed, and knee-high boots haven’t been spared either. Begin by reacquainting yourself with Alexander McQueen’s Bumsters, first debuted as part of his Taxi Driver collection for F/W 1993.

Fluorescent shades of blue, green and yellow boosted the summery allure of the silhouettes, which came with a futuristic aesthetic at Balenciaga or Miu Miu.

The baby blues, a soft chromatic mood tinted the second skin silhouettes, which were resolutely fluid and innocent.

For seasons on end, pops of purple have given way to sweeping, head-to-toe lilac looks. You better get used to it!

Magenta is the Pantone Color of the Year 2023, so no wonder shades of red are all over the runways. But it is nothing for the shy, the trend expects you to sport the vibrant shade head-to-toe. My favorite? Ferragamo’s all over sparkles.

The monochromatic silhouette came only in shades of beige. Miu Miu, Max Mara and Dior case fashion staples rather than statement pieces, daring to layer up classic basics in varying hues.

Blending craftsmanship and ’70s charm, crochet remains a failsafe option for summer.

The latest take on fringing is a far cry from its bohemian aesthetic, with the detail adorning even the most sophisticated pieces in your wardrobe.

Hints of fringing feathers and glitter details are bringing back the Roaring Twenties! However the ’20s glamour got a minimalist makeover, without compromising on elegance.

Let’s ride! From the street to the runway, the biker trend is showing no sign of slowing down.

Literal interpretations of the gothic style were replaced by a soft grunge talk on the aesthetic. Black dominates the goth girl look. Complete the vibe by playing on volume and transparency.

Transparency create a silhouette that is sexier than ever. The must-have black dresses of the season hinted at glimpses at several designers.

In what was an ingenious display of creativity, fashion played with optical illusions, unveiling troupe-l’oeil pieces that transformed the ordinary into the extraordinary.

Whether with a new twist on a bouquet or with lifelike tropical flowers, designers transformed simple garments into blossoming works of art.

Living out our costume-drama dreams has never been so easy, thanks to the return of 16th-century farthingales, 17th-century panniers and 19th-century crinolines.

Hoods are the strangely sexy accessory taking over the summer runways. Totally reminiscent of the most renowned Alaïa muse, Grace Jones, who triumphed this look in the ’80s.

Cutouts have moved to a very daring spot. Nothing for the shy…

As the world gets more inclusive, fashion is a welcome way to express your current mood. That means you can dress up as much as you like to get all the attention. References from previous decades are a welcome source of inspiration. Even the poodle skirt is back!

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

Without doubt, one of my absolute favourite collections for F/W 2013 is DIOR. Raf Simons takes the French Maison to new heights with this literally speaking very artistic collection. It is the story of affinities between the founder, Monsieur Christian Dior, and the designer himself.

I have fallen in love with the new looks already on the runway and during my re-see in the showroom during Paris Fashion Week, I have been completely taken by all the beautiful details that I will share with you today.

This season, Raf Simons focuses on this notion of memory and how it shapes the nature of design at the house; how this works for himself and how it once worked for Christian Dior.

“This collection is more connected to passions we share,” says Raf Simons. “Like a real interest in art – Christian Dior started his career as a gallerist and represented both Dali and Giacometti early on. The connection to certain periods of time is also significant, his obsession with the Belle Époque in his case, the Mid-Century modern in mine. Here the connections made are important, the very idea of them rather than what they are made to; the attraction and obsession is the significant part.”

The collection functions in the form of a visual scrapbook, a collage of clothing containing significant moments in time both for Raf Simons and the house of Christian Dior. A Dior coat can function easily alongside a further exploration of the Bar jacket in wool denim, itself teamed with a new take on Oxford bags.

Dior’s iconic houndstooth motif is explored and transposed, emerging frequently as a wool bustier. A notion of asymmetry, begun in the haute couture collection, can be seen throughout, resulting in a abundance of permutations in the silhouettes that can go from short to long in one look. The collection is full of unexpected juxtapositions and visual non sequitur; a free association, like a personal scrapbook, both playful and profound, it embraces idiosyncrasy, culminating in what Simons refers to as “memory dresses.”

Here, a typical twenties shift shape (Think of the The Great Gatsby‘s influence!) is embroidered and appliqued with motifs that point to parts of the personal history of Dior; a Surrealist style free association culminates in these clothes and is up for open interpretation. They also display the new graphic sensibility that is introduced in this collection and permeates throughout. This is most significantly displayed in the unique collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts in the collection.

The early hand drawn work from the 1950s of the artist Andy Warhol is found as a recurring motif of the mid-century style printed or embroidered on the clothing and accessories.

“For me Warhol made so much sense,” says Simons of this collaboration. “I was interested in the delicacy and sensitivity in the early work he did, I was drawn to that graphic style naturally in this collection. It was that notion of hand work and personal signature that fitted throughout.”

These notions of Surrealism and Pop are brought together in the dreamscape of the show set. As a Magritte-style cloud path meanders around the gigantic mirrored spheres of the space, the mix of memory and desire in the collection is brought to dream-like culmination.

Below, you can enjoy some of the accessories that are to die for. The embroidered boots are definitely on my must-have shopping list.

Dior’s amazing F/W 2013 collection will hit the stores aproximately end of August, beginning of September 2013. If I have whetted your appetite for some serious shopping, you should have a look at the house’s extremely beautiful Pre-fall 2013 collection which has started to arrive.

A collection which shows the new juxtapositions in perfection: a billowing very couture-like skirt that is tied at the waist and reaching to the floor in back is paired with a cashmere-silk knit tee (see collage below to the right) or a sort of wool fabric belt that elevates the look to a new level of style. I imagine Raf’s casual glamour will become his signature. One thing is for sure, we will see more and more Dior on the streets and the house jacket will be identifiable everywhere. Personally speaking, I am madly in love! My collection for the upcoming season!

LoL, Sandra

Runway photos: Courtesy of Dior, Showroom pictures: © Sandra Bauknecht

The Wolford US Online Boutique wants to wish you a great 2012 with this $15 discount code that will be valid from now and until January 31st, 2012.

It is a great way to start the year and it can also be used when purchasing sale items.
There is no minimum basket required and the second phase of the online sale will run until the end of January!

My beloved Twenties fishnet tights are on sale at the moment internationally!

Don’t wait any longer to shop by clicking here or on the red banner above ! Remember to use your voucher code. It also includes FREE shipping!

LoL, Sandra