SIHH 2019

Personally speaking, SIHH in Geneva, the famous Swiss watch trade fair, is one of the most enjoyable events of my yearly must-dos. Nevertheless, a lot has changed during the past years. In 2020, the so-called Salon Internationale de la Haute Horlogerie will take place in May right after Baselworld. It makes sense especially for all the visitors from abroad to come only once to Switzerland.

This year, Van Cleef & Arpels decided not to be exhibiting due to the little business the brand has with retailers and distributors. Two other luxury watch brands, Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet, are leaving next year for similar reasons. It seems that most of the prestigious watch companies are dealing more and more directly with their consumers.

Happy Sandra after seeing Audemars Piguet’s amazing high jewellery watch Sapphire Orbe (a detailed post to follow).

In the meantime others joined the exhibition for the first time, for example Bovet, known for their handmade watches with artistic finishes and highly complicated movements. In addition, Breitling and Bucherer recently became members of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which manages SIHH. This might be the first step in replacing Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet for 2020.

Still trending: Colourful straps as seen at Piaget, Cartier and Audemars Piguet.

But most importantly what will we wear in 2019? Cuff watches, tourbillons, dial sets with miniature paintings, skeleton movements, shaped cases and still lots of celestial influences… Below are some of my favorite ladies’ watches revealed during the 29th Salon Internationale de la Haute Horlogerie.

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked
A watch that is brilliant in every way.
White “frosted gold”, 37mm, manual winding manufacture skeleton movement with a rainbow magic of its 32 baguette-cut sapphires (2.24 carats). MY FAVORITE!

RICHARD MILLE RM 37-01 Kiwi
Fancy a little watchmaking sweetness to help you through the winter?
Colored Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT, 34.400 x 52.30mm, self-winding mechanical movement, limited edition (30 pieces)

ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Shooting Star
The coolest booth for the fastest girls in the world.
Pink gold set with diamonds, 36mm, flying tourbillon, skeleton manual winding movement.

PIAGET Possession Cuff Watch
A booth filled with sand for a little time out at the beach – a perfect backdrop to show the expert application of gold-working, a skill for which the brand is historically famed.
Pink gold set with 162 diamonds, 29mm, gold Milanese mesh strap.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Rendez-Vous Moon Jewellery
One the sky is the limited. Nature played an important role at Jaeger Le-Coultre.
White gold case with mother-of-pearl dial and polished rhodium-plated appliqués, diamonds ~168 (~3.43 carats), calibre : 925B/1.

CARTIER Baignoire Allongé
Women are in for a treat at Cartier. Part of the Maison since 1912, the Baignoire features an ellipsis-shaped dial and  earned its unusual name in the late 1950s thanks to its strong resemblance to a bathtub.
Extra-large model, pink gold, dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds (293 diamonds,~1.50 carats), dark alligator leather strap, manual movement 1917 MC.

During the next days, I will show you much more as the most distinguished models deserve their own post, don’t you think? Stay tuned!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Some Stills: Courtesy of the Brands

Celestial Watches at SIHH 2018

 As you already know, I am over the moon when it comes to an aventurine dial. For me, it is as infinite as the universe itself. Coming back to earth, at SIHH 2018, I spotted some «out of this world» timepieces in stellar blue that I would like to share with you today.

But before let me give you a little information about aventurine glass that was created by accident as it is the case for many superb inventions. In the 19th century, a glass-blower in the Italian city of Murano happened to spill some copper shavings into molten glass. This gave rise to aventurine glass, now a much sought-after material, scattered with metal inclusions and named after the Italian expression «a l’avventura», literally «by chance» – a tribute to this lucky twist of fate.

Lady Arpels Planétarium™ Poetic Complications watch by Van Cleef & Arpels

Four years after unveiling the Midnight Planétarium™ watch, Van Cleef & Arpels is restyling this iconic creation, offering an original women’s edition to enrich the universe of Poetic Astronomy. Distinguished both by refined aesthetics and its automatic movement, developed exclusively for the Maison, the Lady Arpels Planétarium watch illustrates the Sun and the closest planets: Mercury, Venus and finally Earth, along with its natural satellite, the Moon. Each heavenly body moves at its actual speed, orbiting the dial in 88 days for Mercury, 224 days for Venus and 365 days for Earth. In a key innovation for this piece, the Moon itself rotates around the Earth in 29.5 days, performing a visible celestial ballet on the dial, day after day.

Kalparisma Nova Galaxy by Parmigiani Fleurier

In 2008, Parmigiani Fleurier launched the Kalparisma family, its first mechanical collection
for women. The brand is now celebrating the tenth anniversary of this phenomenal
collection with the Kalparisma Nova Galaxy, a watch that is more feminine and captivating
than ever.

Parmigiani Fleurier is a pioneer in the use of Aventurine in watchmaking (for my favorite watch, click here please) and has numerous special editions that showcase the material on their dials. These pieces are called «Galaxy» as a reminder of the sparkling constellations evoked by the material. Likewise, the Kalparisma Nova Galaxy represents a star-scattered sky that tells the story of the passage of time. One of the principal high points of the Kalparisma collection is its small seconds at 6 o’clock, which takes the form of a star performing one revolution per minute. This little star has found its ultimate place at the heart of a dial designed to represent the galaxy. In astronomy, «Nova» refers to a star that suddenly becomes very bright.


It is available in two majestic versions. The first, in rose gold with its shimmering reflections, matches the indices and Nova star. The sides of the case are set with 46 Top Wesselton diamonds for a total of ~0.84 carats and a glittering play of light. The stone-set rose gold edition is limited to 50 pieces. It is joined by the even more exclusive white gold version: a total of 8 pieces with a dazzling «snow» setting (see collage above). The entire case is set with painstakingly arranged diamonds in sizes expertly selected by the master stone-setter – smaller on the periphery, and gradually getting bigger as they near the case’s curves. Each of the 182 stones has a role to play in this ~2.28-carat fresco.

Saxonia Thin in Copper Blue by A. Lange & Söhne

Celestial canopy for the wrist – a copper-blue dial imparts fascinating depth and charisma to the thinnest A. Lange & Söhne timepiece. The elegant personality of the latest Saxonia Thin version is based on the «less is more» principle. Its elegant white-gold case is merely 6.2 millimetres thick and has a diameter of 39 millimetres. The case colour is echoed by the two slender hour and minute hands as well as the twelve hour markers in rhodiumed gold. It is crafted from solid silver and coated with a thin layer of subtly shimmering goldstone. Microscopically small copper oxide crystals saturate the deep blue with choreographed reflections that are reminiscent of the stars in the blue midnight sky. A dark-blue hand-stitched alligator leather strap rounds out the expressiveness of the watch. Its puristic elegance is complemented by a manually wound movement finished to the highest standards of Saxon watchmaking artistry. The technical features of the manufacture calibre L093.1 – it is a scant 2.9 millimetres thick – include a flat mainspring barrel which delivers a maximum power reserve of 72 hours despite its compact size.

Cat’s Eye Day & Night High Jewellery by Girard-Perregaux

The Cat’s Eye collection is one of the most loyal ambassadors of ladies’ watches and now it has been transformed it for the very first time into a High Jewellery interpretation. Above and beyond the metamorphosis highlighting the fairytale sparkle of diamonds, this new creation tells its very own story.


This stunning white gold watch comes with an aventurine night-sky, diamond paved dial and moon figure with brilliant-cut diamonds. On the dial, there are  149 brilliant-cut diamonds ~0.52 ct, on the case  52 brilliant-cut diamonds ~2.31 cts and on the buckle 14 brilliant-cut diamonds ~0.118 ct.
The see-through case-back reveals the reliable in-house manufactured movement made of 218 components and the gold oscillating weight delicately engraved with «GP» logos forming a decorative pattern.

My absolute favorite watch that features an aventurine dial is the Tonda 1950 Galaxy by Parmigiani Fleurier that was launched at SIHH 2017.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands and © Sandra Bauknecht

Jason Wu – Masterclass

Master_Class_Jason_Wu

I have been in love with Jason Wu‘s embellished lace and silk-chiffon gown from the first moment when I spotted it on Karlie Kloss at the Met Gala in May (Always good to be friends with a designer… you get to wear it first). Now, this stunning piece is in stores. Get Karlie’s look:

Embellished lace and silk-chiffon gown by Jason Wuvelvet pumpsicon by Dolce & Gabbana, Tonda clutch bag iconby Diane von Furstenberg and jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels.

LoL, Sandra

S/S 2011: Marakkesh Moment

Marakkesh SS2011

A Moroccan spirit influenced many designers for their S/S 2011 collections which inevitably meant that Yves Saint Laurent, who had spent many years there, was in the air as well.

As the models stepped out onto the runway, you were immediately jetted off to North Africa with all those crochets, tassels, feathers, beads, fringes and Moroccan mirror details. The Sahara subtext was explicit in the colour palette, the Tuareg head wraps and tribal jewelry seen at Giorgio Armani and Salvatore Ferragamo for example.
Drop-crotch harem pants should be on your must-have list for summer.

LoL, Sandra

Morocco SS2011

SIHH 2011 Preview

Sihh

The 21st edition of the famous Salon International de la Haute Horlorgerie (SIHH) will be taking place from the 17th to the 21st of January, 2011 in Geneva, Switzerland.
Today, I would like to give you an exclusive preview of some exciting watches that will be presented at the „invitation only“ event.

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Photo: Studio Dieleman @ Cartier 2010

One of my favourites is Cartier’s Tourbillon and crocodile Geneva Seal white gold watch, calibre 9458 MC. It is a very feminine Grande Complication model, a beautiful union of haute horlogerie and haute joiallerie, limited to 50 individually numbered pieces.
Cartier has inversed the movement to show the mechanism and its skeletonised bridges, which now form part of the decor. Reminiscent of the Le Animalier Collection and the Pasha but significant with variation, a diamond crocodile carefully guards the time. The heartbeats are driven by the oscillations of a unique flying tourbillon: the calibre 9458 MC, adorned with the Geneva Seal.

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Photo: Laziz Hamani @ Cartier 2010

A very masculine looking and impressive timepiece is the new Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon watch, Calibre 9451 MC.
The Astrotourbillon movement, which was introduced last year after five years of development in the Manufacture, now powers the Calibre de Cartier watch, limited to 100 numbered pieces. The 47mm titanium case on black alligator strap make it a disctinctive choice.

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Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon watch, Laziz Hamani @ Cartier 2010

 

Panerai Luminor Composite PAM 386

Panerai Luminor Composite PAM 386


Panerai Radiomir Composite PAM 339, the bestseller of 2010

Panerai Radiomir Composite PAM 339, the bestseller of 2010


As I am a big fan of Panerai watches anyway, it is no wonder that the new Panerai Luminor Composite PAM 386, that will be officially unveiled in Geneva, has caught my eye immediately.

Reminiscent of the Panerai Radiomir Composite Marina Militare PAM 339 which was introduced exactly one year ago and powered by a 8-day manual wind, the new model comes equipped with an automatic P.9000 caliber.

The timepiece has a scratch-resistant 44mm ceramic case and might be limited to 1000 pieces which is still to be confirmed.

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Van Cleef & Arpel Five Weeks In a Balloon

Van Cleef & Arpels’ new piece Five Weeks In a Balloon will be surely amongst the star attractions at the upcoming SIHH 2011 – inspired by the world famous fiction author Jules Verne and his Extraordinary Voyages novel of the same name.
The dial of the watch is decorated with chamlevé enamel and inlaid with mother-of-pearl, the case is made of white gold. The scene depicts a balloon rising into the air of Zanzibar. The hours and minutes are displayed by the balloon’s anchor and a flying bird. Why not dream a little dream with this beautiful novel model?

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Jaeger-Le-Coultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 in pink gold

Jaeger-Le-Coultre launched the iconic Reverso model to meet the English polo players’ need for an unbreakable watch in 1931. Another reason for its immediate success was the possibility to personalize it by engraving the initials or family crest. Almost 80 years later, the line will be supplemented with two limited editions, named Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931.

Being a beautiful bridge between past and present, the watch demonstrates all the Art Deco glamour of the original style interpreted in today’s language. The square-shape case is available in steel or pink gold and measures only 7.2mm in thickness to demonstrate its ultra-thinness. Inside is a just 2.94mm thick manufactory-made mechanical hand-wound movement, calibre 822. It is a very understated piece, only having the name Reverso written on the dial. Timeless elegance!

Jaeger-Le-Coultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 in steel

Jaeger-Le-Coultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 in steel


Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater

Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater

Audemars Piguet’s newest addition is a feast for your eyes. The Millenary Minute Repeater watch (Reference 26371TI) comes wih a 47mm x 42mm titanium case, an anthracite grey dial, applied pink gold numerals, a minute repeater slide activator (at 7 o’ clock) and a black croc leather strap.
The best of the watch lays inside, the manual wind AP caliber 2910 movement (flat double balance-spring, 165 hour power reserve from 2 barrels, third barrel powering the minute repeater, 21 600 vph (3hz) frequency and 443 parts in total).

audemars-piguet-millenary-minute-repeater-caliber-2910-620x557audemars-piguet-millenary-minute-repeater-caliber-2910-backaudemars-piguet-Calibre_2910-duo-620x409

Baume & Mercier Jumping Hour watch

Baume & Mercier Jumping Hour watch

The Baume & Mercier Jumping Hour watch will be available in fall 2011 and will be limited to 500 numbered pieces. Here are some details: 42mm steel case, automatic mechanical Dubois Depraz 14400 movement, black alligator strap with a not so common jumping hour complication.


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The upcoming timepiece is very similiar to this year’s rose gold Baume & Mercier William Baume Jumping Hour watch (Ref M0A08857) that was limited to 40 pieces (see below).

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Baume & Mercier William Baume Jumping Hour watch, fall 2010

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Girard Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds

Girard Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds


girard-perregaux-caliber-3300The casual observer can appreciate the classic elegance of the new Girard Perregeaux 1966 Small Seconds. A 40mm white or rose gold case with a white enamel dial and a beautifil alligator strap. The technically inclined may adore its new movement, the Girard Perregeaux automatic Caliber 3300.

I hope that you have enjoyed this preview. I cannot wait to go to Geneva and see all those watches in real life. Which one is your favourite?

LoL, Sandra