Sandra‘s Closet

Thom Browne is the darling of the fashion community. The shrunken suit silhouette – narrow lapels and short-cropped trousers, meticulously tailored – is his signature look.
Since he founded his own line in 2001, the US designer has transformed the direction of menswear, a world in which change happens at a glacial pace. Especially American men tend to wear clothes that are too big. Thom, an admirer of European tailoring, has created a new exaggerated take on the staples of a man’s wardrobe.

He got his start in fashion by designing for Club Monaco in the Nineties. In 2006, Browne was tapped to design Brooks Brothers’ more fashion-focused Black Fleece line, and in 2008 he was named creative director for Moncler Gamme Bleu.

For his menswear S/S 2011 collection, the designer made his Paris Fashion week runway debut with his probably most commercial show due to date. From his famous classic gray flannel to a shimmering sequined plaid, all interpreted with bermuda shorts and kneesocks underneath, he proofed his talent for proportional play and focused on his craft, his love for quality.

And good news is, for S/S 2011, Thom Browne is making a foray into womenswear with an amazing collection. Women look great in tailoring and the clothes boast the juxtaposition of traditional fabrications remixed with a his special kind of humour and exaggerations.

Thom Browne’s statement regarding his new womenswear collection: „I’m looking at it the same as my mens, like looking at really well-made clothes for girls that are tailoring-inspired but interesting and provocative, not just another collection of clothing for girls.“

One thing is clear, Thom Browne is poised to be as big as his suits are small!

Thom Browne Men is available in Switzerland at Trois Pommes, for further store enquiries, please contact .

LoL, Sandra

Albert Kriemler with me at the A-K-R-I-S- cocktail reception yesterday.

On Sunday afternoon on my flight to Paris, I had quite a fancy seat neighbour: Courtney Love who drove the complete staff crazy and delayed the take off.
I was eager to arrive in time as I could not make it to the Akris show in the morning and wanted to join Albert Kriemler for his cocktail reception in the evening at the Café de L’Epoque.

Akris is Switzerland’s fashion flagship brand, known for its craftsmanship, high-quality materials and understated luxury. The Swiss brand has written already over 80 years of history. Founded by the Kriemler’s grandmother to produce aprons in the 20s, followed by his father in the 40s who built Akris into a couture house and finally in the hands of Albert Kriemler and his brother since the 80s.

I have to admit that the Akris style used to be a touch conservative for me personally. But this has changed latest with the F/W 2010 collection which was absolutely beautiful. Gorgeous colours, well tailored pieces with a sensual 70s vibe, that were flattering, modern and feminine in one. A wind of change has been blowing with Daphne Guinness as the face of the last two advertising campaigns.
In the beginning of the year, Akris launched its debut bag collection, a must-have for the more discerning of women who appreciates quality, is not so much into an It-bag and tired of the Hermès camp.

Kriemler’s S/S 2011 collection is perhaps his best so far. The colours, the sharpness of cuts along with some bold blooms have laid the foundation for a much younger fan club that will love the little short jumpsuit and cool jackets. Enjoy!

Available for example in the US at Saks, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and in Zurich at Gassmann. For more information, please visit the Akris homepage.

LoL, Sandra

For all my male readers who have been asking for this frequently, here is my Menswear Trend Report for F/W 2010.
And Ladies, please stay tuned as you never know when this will come in handy. Your hubbies, daddies and boyfriends will love you even a little more for your fashion knowledge. Moreover the menswear trends are very similiar to the female ones. Have fun and get inspired! Even the classic pieces are definitely not boring this season…but see for yourself:

The end `50s and early `60s inspired many designers for their F/W 2010 collections. The well-tailored suit makes its return into the gentleman’s closet. Imagine Don Draper, the main character of Mad Men, shopping on Savile Row and there you go! Back to the basics, black, all shades of grey and camel welcome elegance as the new dress code.

Also back is the 3-piece suit. I like Costume National’s modern interpretation in grey worn with a turtleneck.

Anyway, turtlenecks were seen everywhere on the runways and seemed to have replaced the shirts. Those cozy pieces worn with a suit have this wonderful `70s vibe that is so up-to-date.

Camel is the new black! The camel coat has been a wardrobe staple of almost every fashionable era. This season, there are many different updated models in well-designed silhouettes, dynamic volumes and distinct cuts. A great investment for many years to come!

A vest or a jacket in velvet is a must this season. Beautiful shades make those It-pieces even more desirable.

Added to these revisited classics making them part of the modern times, were narrow tight leather or cropped pants.

The new hemline goes hand in hand with another rising trend for men. Pants were tucked into boots and it looked so hot! So guys, be brave and try it out!

If you like it more bright, you could add just a hint of colour, preferably in royal blue or a berry tone.  A little sweater like the Prada one will be a perfect eyecatcher.

Or you could opt for the total look. Tone on tone, from head to toe, dressed in the same colour family or matching fabrics give this creative concept a new take on the masculine dress code.

If it gets really cold, men will have a lot of stylish options this season. Fur was seen along with must-have shearling jackets. I adore the Burberry Prorsum ones very much.
Rustic sweaters evoking a winter sports atmosphere let us dream of after ski and evenings in the chalet.

So Gentlemen, I never want to hear again that you are indifferent to fashion! Enjoy your new look and the world will be your oyster!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands